Montana :: 2001 - No Heat / Air Movement Via Defrost Vent
Dec 16, 2008
I have a 2001 Montana. Recently I have no heat/air movement via the defrost vent. All other setting work along with fan. Plenty of heat when set on floor or dash vent. Just doesn't work with the defrost setting in either alone or with the floor.
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I'm headed north in a couple days to the frigid regions of the country and I little worried cause my blower fan is now completely non-functioning (no heat, no defrost ). It came on a couple times since I bought it recently, usually after hitting a bump and stayed on for a while, but now it hasn't come on at all in a while. I checked all the fuses, they all looked good.
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Last Oct. I noticed that my ac/heater started to intermittently stop blowing from AC fresh air/recir/vent/etc. mode and stick to defrost only. Do I have a bad switch and or a vacuum issue here? It's a '01 F350 CC 7.3 .....
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2007 Montana SV6 3.9. I have lots of heat when vehicle is reving 1500 -2000rpm. when idling at 700 little or no heat. recent flush, thermostat, and serpentine belt. I'm thinking, if it was the water pump not circulating enough water the car should be over heating. heat guage remains on the half mark.
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Went to use my windshield defrost this morning on my way to work. everything went fine. Leaving work I selected the face vents with my AC on and it only blows hard from the windshield vent even though its already been depressed.
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My 06 F250 crew with the 6.0 starting blowing the cold AC out the defrost vent and will not switch to the dash vents. It's goning to hit 108 today and stay around 105 for the rest of the week.
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I have to once and for all try to figure out what the heck is up with the AC and the defrost/vent switching back and forth. I have searched and searched and posted a few months back as well. But now that it's summer and 100 degrees out I've had a chance to test some more.
1 - I replaced both hoses going to the hubs up front.
2 - I am not sure how to test vacuum, but I did cap the hoses that lead to the hubs and still had the fluctuating back and forth
Looking for detail how to test for vacuum leak with a gauge directions ? What number is supposed to hold on the gauge and for how long etc...?
3 - It used to be that when I got to a high speed or RPM it would shift to defrost, but now I've noticed that once on the freeway going to work for instance and doing a constant 55-65 ( sub 2k rpm ) for about 20-25 minutes the vents hold fine. When I start to stop and go with higher RPM's it starts to 'break down' again. Could it be that there is a vacuum canister or pump ? I don't know ?? The diesels have a vac pump - do the V10's ? What can I check if there is no vacuum leak - what's next ?
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I've got a couple different problems. The first one is that no matter what setting I have it on, air only blows out of the defrost vent.. Why this is happening? or is there already a thread about this? i saw a thread for this same problem, but it was for 2nd gen explorers.
The second problem I have is that there always seems to be air blowing from some where on the passenger side, unless i am accelerating. I can't seem to find where it is coming from but it makes a really annoying noise.
It is the 4.6L, AWD. not sure if that matters or not though.
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is there an way to remove the defrost vent covers? i think my license slid down the front of the defrost covers. its probably somewhere down under the dash. I would like to start removing the covers up top before I yank the dash. I am 1400 miles from home so I cant run and get a replacement.
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I have a 2010 F150 FX4 with the 5.4L, and lately under slow movement (less that 20km/h it is sounding like there is a rattle. I can try to get a video of the sound later, now I'm wondering if the universal bearings in the driveshaft would be making this noise or if it could be the 4wd actuators failing? Would either of these make a loud rattle? (Sounds like a heat shield shaking but all are tight). Had a Ranger up until last year so just learning the ins and outs of F150 life.
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Went to switch vent from dash to defrost and hear a clicking noise and also air doesn't come out defrost unless the air is switched to floor. Switch air to floor and it doesn't seem to change. Where is the blend door located. sound seems to come from center of the dash.
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My 2006, King Ranch, 4x4, 6.0's air conditioner only blows from the defrost vent. I have done some research on here, but haven't seen anything that identifies as a common problem. I did however, notice that this problem is stemming from a vacuum issue.
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My husband and I have 3 Excursions, V10, 6.0, 7.3 and I have a 6.0 250 crewcab. 3 of the 4 now blow air or heat from just the defroster unless your going at a slow speed.
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My buddy has a 97 f350 with a 460. When he accelerates his HVAC changes from vent to defrost then back when the desired speed is reached. What can be causing this?
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My 99' started o blow air only through the defrost vent today, and won't go through any of the other vents. I think this happens when your vacuum pump goes bad or there is a leak, correct? If so, how can I test these to figure out the problem.
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2000 Blazer LS 4X4. 186k miles. It would seem that my heater control will only work for defrost and face-vent operation. (Just happened yesterday) When I move the controller from the off position to defrost, I can hear the system moving the flaps into position. But it no longer moves for defrost/floor or just floor control. Would changing the heater control solve this problem, or could it be a bad vacuum line?
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2006 F250 5.4 - While driving ac changes from vent to defrost on it own..let off gas and it will change back to vent. I replaced vacuum can under hood.. no luck.....
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I have a 2000 f250 4x4 7.3 diesel. I had problems with my a/c and controls for sometime now. my a/c was blowing threw the defrost vent. I was told my blend door was bad. I bought a new blend door installed it,still doing the same thing. I was told to check my vacuum lines. I check them, they were bad. I replace my vacuum lines and my vac pump as well. that fixed my problem blowing threw the defrost vent. I can control my air flow from floor,dash vents and defrost vent. the problem I have, I not able to control my temperature when I turn my center from red to blue. It blows hot air and the air that is coming out of the vents isn't very strong at all.
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There is always something.... I just drove my girlfriend's new 2003 ranger edge home from the seller. Real nice truck. I noticed the heater selector doesn't change the air flow. It is on full blast for the defrosters, and is also trickling out of the floor and dash vents. No matter where you put the selector, thats the only place the air comes out.
The temp control seem to work OK, when you turn it on cold, you get cold air and visa versa. Even on AC and MAx AC... air out the defrosters. It's cold when you turn the temp control to cold.
I did some searching here and gather some info on checking the vac lines etc. Everything looks in place but one detail. The vac ball under the hood under the air box has 2 ports on the front end, and only one grey line going into it. The other port has what looks like a rubber boot and part of a very short vac line broken off it.
I looked, I cant find any loose vac lines. I'd like to know if this second port is suppose to have a second line on it, and where does it go? What color is it? Is this the reason the vent selector isnt working?
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I have a 2012 F-350 SRW with a 6.7 diesel. The other day I went to push the defrost switch and noticed it does not work. All the lights work in the switches, and the temp control works, but no matter what I push, defrost or floor, it stay in the vent only. Anything I can check??
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I have a problem with my vent selector on my truck. It's a 2005 f350 lariat. The vent is stuck on defrost, some times after a few mins I can get it to switch to floor but not always. I have replaced the pump, checked tank for cracks, disabled and plugged the auto hubs. The pump will shut off so I assume it's not a leak. I believe it's in the switching unit, can these be repaired? I found a lot of dust and dirt in the vac tank that had been sucked through a bad hub. I think it may need to be disassembled and cleaned. I have seen videos showing how to replace the orings in the older units. Are the newer style remote ones the same?
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