Montana :: 1998 Transport - Chugging At 70 Mph When Accelerate To Maintain Speed
Sep 27, 2012
I have '98 Transport Montana and I took it on a trip last weekend on the expressway. I would be doing 70 MPH and approach a hill and start depressing the accelerator to maintain my speed and I could feel a chugging. Also, I could hear the engine seem to make a change in its sound coincident with the chugging. The RPMs at this point were around 2K. It's a 3.4 and all of the normal stuff has been maintained properly (spark plugs, filters, etc.).
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
My 2007 Saturn Vue Hybrid has started to sound like a muscle car when I accelerate and maintain speeds over 20 mph. The RPMs are appropriate, there are no idiot lights on, and the battery appears to be behaving as usual. Also, the dash and radio lights dim and/or blink out intermittently.
View 2 Replies
I have a 98 Silverado, 2wd, 5 liter V-8, 180,000 miles. Occasionally, my truck will lose power. Driving down the road I lose speed and cannot accelerate. When I depress the accelerator the motor does nothing. This happens at any speed from take off to highway speeds. When it begins to happen I lose speed slowly for maybe 30 seconds then the service engine light comes on and the problem gets much worse. Sometimes it will sound like it's back firing but the sound is muffled. This seems to happen more often in damp weather but it can happen in dry weather too. And it doesn't always happen in damp weather. It happens in the morning or afternoon. Auto Zone put their tester on it and a code comes back for O2 sensor but the guy didn't think that would cause the trouble I'm having.
View 4 Replies
I've noticed when trying to maintain a low speed (25-35mph) the car doesn't really like that... Almost feel like the brake is being slightly pushed on and off, or the car is losing power. It's been most noticeable around curves when coasting but having to give it a bit of gas to maintain speed. Shifting overall doesn't seem bad, so it doesn't feel like a tranny issue. I've also sometimes noticed the opposite. Sometimes when coasting then pushing the brake to slightly slow up it almost feels like the throttle is very slightly being pushed. Not sure if I'm having powertrain issues or just not used to the way this car drives. It just get most annoying when trying to maintain 30mph in city and the car occasionally surges a bit.
(2010 camry xle, i4, 97,000 miles)
View 1 Replies
My cruise control will engage but not maintain set speed. It slowly loses KPH, 10 KPH every 30 seconds. What to look for?
View 6 Replies
R32 has 29,000 miles. I live at 8000ft. Recently, my R, when traveling back from sea level, starts to have what seems like fueling issues at around 7000ft. These take place by the car being unable to maintain a steady speed and then losing power. Once power falls you can press on accelerator and then will pick up again and accelerate through the gears until you need to back of the accelerator, then the same problem will happen... Once home after lurching around like a kangaroo the car will be fine if switched off and then left for an hour before driving again.
View 7 Replies
I recently picked up a 2001 Nissan sentra. This car sat since around 2010. I guess the previous owner had a lot of work done by the dealer a year or so ago and it looks it, brake pads etc. are brand new, a couple other things look new but he's not a car guy in the slightest and can't find the receipt nor will the dealer give him one due to computer system change and I actually tried with them myself, that's correct.
Anyway, the check engine light is on and bringing it home we had reports of black smoke out the exhaust. It also felt like it wanted to stall at times when stopped but it never did. Well, I ran it a while and at times it seemed like it wanted to clear up, at others it didn't but the light stayed on and what not. I scanned it and it claimed the O2 sensor 1 bank 2 was bad so I replaced it.
It didn't make any difference so I cleaned the Mass Air flow sensor. Again no good it's the same. Here's the funny thing though, it's great first thing in the morning usually. As the day goes on and as we drive it, it gets worse. What I can try/change next?
I'm almost leaning on electrical issue where it gets worse as the day goes on and dew dries off. I'm new to Nissan's, I like the car and really want to work this issue out. I did replace the fuel pump when I got the car, and have run sea foam through and actually on that tank of gas it ran pretty good but that's worked itself out now.
View 5 Replies
My 2000 Pontiac Montana squeaks while accelerating. There is about 55,000 miles on it. At first I thought it was a belt but it would squeak the whole time if so. It only squeaks (like a mouse), every time accelerating.
View 6 Replies
I bought a used 05 Camry with 98,000 miles for what I thought was a good deal. The car needed struts, sway bar links, and a little body work, all things I was capable of. The car runs great under light load, but has a terrible chug when you kick down a gear, or accelerate hard. The kicker here, it doesn't throw any codes! I've read a little bit on here and tried a couple things (cleaned throttle body, replaced MAF) with no luck.
View 6 Replies
Recently bought an Audi A4 Quattro from a dealer with 112,876 miles on it.. The car runs absolutely beautiful, it up-shifts and downshifts without any noticeable issue, it changes gears without any issue, however... When I am trying to maintain a stable speed of around 35 - 40mph and my engine hangs around 1700RPM it'll bounce up and down slightly..
The revs will hop between 1700RPM up to around 1750RPM and then back down, and then up again.. It's hardly noticeable and the only time it causes any issue/delay is when it hops above 2000RPM and then back down... Is the torque converter the issue or what else could be the cause? Timing belt has been done, spark plugs have been checked, oil has been changed.
View 11 Replies
I have a 1999 Pontiac Montana that has recently started whining when I accelerate. It stops after I take my foot off the gas pedal. It usually takes about 15 minutes of driving before the whining starts. It started about 4 months ago and has recently become louder.
Van has 85K miles.
View 13 Replies
Middle of May, I went to Boston. On the way there, I started to notice a slight whirring noise that was only present when I gently feathered the gas to maintain highway speed. If I were to apply any more throttle, the noise would go away, and if I were to pull my foot away and allow engine braking, it would also disappear.
So I did my best to finish the trip to and from Boston adjusting my driving to avoid the noise. Once I came home, I researched and thought the noise might have been my wheel bearings (I had just replaced lower control arms, lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods prior to leaving for Boston). I also had a shop install my upper strut mount bearings and bushings simultaneously with the wheel bearings.
Since then, the problem still continues. It has grown louder, but still occurs under the same situations. I've focused more on it and here are the conditions under which it occurs:
1. Car must be warmed up. Starting it up cold and allowing SAI to run then driving, car is fine, no sounds. Usually takes 20-25 mins of driving to get it to start making noise.
2. Car still only makes the noise when the gas is being feathered (ie barely pressing it enough to give it any sort of throttle. It does also make the noise between shifts when reengaging the gear and applying gas, as the throttle pedal passes the point of throttle off to throttle on.
3. I'm hearing more noise now during engine braking than I had been previously. Could be related?
View 6 Replies
Problem I'm having, when in overdrive my 04' F150 FX4 5.4 Triton surges while trying to maintain a steady speed during power delivery to the wheels, it causes a shuttering and bucking effect. If I push the button to turn the O/D off, the RPMs rise and problem goes away. During the problem no CEL illuminates and tach stays constant. Fluid condition & level are okay. (not burnt) I'm completely baffled since there is no code in the ECM to point me in the right direction. I do use the truck to occasionally tow my 5k lb boat & trailer. When I began towing I did not know to turn the O/D off and put some miles on towing in overdrive, I know now that was not good for the tranny.
View 7 Replies
What may have wrong with my trans on my truck... this is what its doing, I am able to put in drive and drive it for so long then its like the truck is in neutral and doesn't gain or maintain speed. but i can turn the truck off and put it in park and restart the truck and it will go again?? that is how i got it home....
the fluid is burnt now but wasn't that bad until the trans started doing this. I have pulled off the pan and inspected the filter and it does have metal debris in it, pulling the valve body off tonight before work (work 3rd shift) to inspect that, i think it has something to do with the solenoids or valve body because it actually moves but then quits until i restart the truck. Also does the transfer case use fluid from the transmission? or are the fluids separated between the 2.
Truck has 4.0L SOHC with a 5R55E in it 4WD...
View 7 Replies
I have a 2004 Nissan Xterra that has been chugging for a few months now. The problem is intermittent and only happens about once or twice a week when driving, but when it starts to chug (feels like it is running out of gas, jerky, will not accelerate) it is unsafe to drive on the freeway. I have taken it to several places and no one can figure out the problem. It was pulling two codes the speed sensor on the transmission PO500 - and the knock sensor code was coming up along with that. I had the speed sensor replaced twice and checked the wiring. We replaced the fuel filter, checked the fuel pump with a fuel gage and fuel lines, replaced the distributor cap and rotor, put in a new MAF sensor and still nothing is working to remedy the chugging. My last stop is replacing the knock sensor for $600, the problem is that the Nissan Mechanics (I visited two dealerships in different cities) told me not to replace this as it would not cause chugging. Several other mechanics around town tell me that they are wrong and I do need to replace it.
View 13 Replies
My Corolla started making a new noise recently. It only makes this noise when I'm moving/giving the car gas. The noise sounds like the noise from those safety strips on the side of the interstate but not quite as loud coming definitely from the front end, possibly isolated to the driver side. The faster I go the more apparent the noise is. It's not really a click noise it's more of a dull sound. It occurs at low speeds and high speeds, but not when idling. It's almost as though the engine is running hard but I'm not convinced it's originating from the engine.
The engine idles normally and I don't think there is anything wrong with the bearings or CV joints as I have replaced the left CV joint/axle and the right front bearing recently.
View 2 Replies
I got a 1998 Trans Sport Montana that has a dead speedometer. The computer knows how fast the car is going because I've seen the live data. I've also changed out the cluster and the problem is still there. I have a schematic of the wire that goes from the ecm to the instrument cluster, but it goes through an accessory connector block. Where this connector block is?
View 2 Replies
I have recently picked up an older F350 2WD 7.3 DRW Lariat. the price was right higher miles but hey it is a 7.3, overall in very good shape.
So the issue at hand is the truck runs great most of the time and puttering around at city speeds you would never know there is any issue;
Get the truck out on the highway set the cruse at 70 to 72 and if you hit a rise in the road or other reason to slightly accelerate the truck chugs and bucks. For lack of a better description it goes chug chug chug, if you accelerate harder to downshift it goes away or if you back off the throttle it goes away. This happens with cruse on or off, a steady foot on the pedal will cause this as well.
I have also noticed that when you let off the throttle the sound the truck makes de-fueling is just very different and "off" sounding . Not sure how to describe it but it sounds funky ... clearly not right when compared to other 7.3 or my 6.0 truck.
What I have done, :
1. Had the truck scanned with an AE and a snap-on scanner both show no codes ran injector tests no contribution errors, not even in # 8.
2. Changed fuel filter
3. Changed Oil and Filters ( tried both full synthetic Rotella and Dino oil looking for a difference )
4. Cleaned out the fuel filter housing just in case.
5. Confirmed injector O-Rings are not leaking
This feels like a fuel issue, my next thought was start looking at fuel pressure under load at speed to see if there was a drop when this is happening ?
Is there a way to test fuel pumps in this truck ? Maybe a clogged pick-up screen ? Where do I start looking next ? I have reasonable mechanical skills but don't know this motor very well, this doesn't seem like a CPS issue..
View 7 Replies
I read the post about towing a Phaeton and it mentioned then when flat-bedding one for several days, say cross country, you should first have a dealer put it into "transport mode." If you do that, when you get it to the other end, how do you get it out of transport mode?
View 7 Replies
What are the cargo dimensions inside a Prius C? Mine's a 2014, and I need to know if I can transport a 2"X6" that is 101.5" long.
View 4 Replies
I have a 98' F150 with a 5.4. When idling the A/C works fine. When I accelerate heat begins to come out of the vents. It does not put out cold air again until the motor is back to idle speed. When adjusting the temperature, I can hear the blend door motor turn but I don't hear the blend door shutting. Should I hear it shut or do I have a vacuum problem. I don't know where to begin if it is in the vacuum hoses.
View 1 Replies
