Modular V8 (4.6L, 5.4L) :: Relay Making A Repeated Click And Interior Lights Flashing
Mar 27, 2016
I bought my 2001 f250 5.4 a few weeks ago. It had a blown plug but other than that everything worked fine no codes. I fixed the plug yesterday finally had time, tried to crank it and battery was dead. So I charged the battery up and tried to crank and engine wouldn't turn over just a click like battery was dead even tried battery off my explorer same thing. I tried arcing the solenoid on started it arced but engine didn't turn over. Tried cranking again and started having crazy electrical problem. The #1 relay for the interior lights was making a repeated click click click and int lights would flash in sync with the clicks.
I then realized my headlights,blinkers,stereo wouldn't work but when I would cut headlights or hazard lights on the blinking int interior light would stop until I turned headlights off. I have an obd link sx with enhanced ford diagnostics software so I plugged it in, and I had 12 B codes all of them was relays that "supposedly" went bad at exact same time and there was two C codes that were raps related. My initial thinking is the gem but if it was bad why would it throw 12 bcm codes and two chassis codes. Could it be the raps and if so I wonder why it would throw 12 faulty relay codes. I guess my question is where would I start gem,bcm,raps or is it something totally different then that.
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About a month ago I was using my driver side seat heater when I noticed it wasn't warm anymore. I looked over and found the indicator light for the heater was off. Here is what happens:
When I push the buttons, I can hear a relay click under the dash, the indicator lights come on quickly, but then they go right back off. It does not matter if I choose upper or lower heaters, and it acts the same for both driver & passenger seats.
I connected up a Snap-On computer to it yesterday. We went under the driver door module and it shows the heated seats, but no error codes were present. It displayed the heated seat as inactive. When the button is pushed, it would show active for a split second, then go right back to inactive.
My mechanic friend thinks that it may be a shorted heater module. He isn't 100% sure on if that is the correct diagnosis, or where to locate the module. I believe it to be under the driver's seat.
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3. I started out with my batteries dying after a few days of sitting. I found the interior lights were coming on dimly, and the relay buzzing. great, got it. I pulled the fuse and ordered the dimmer/light switch. I came back next week and the batteries are dead again. Charged them, drove the truck, and then the radio starts coming on without the key on. Pulled the radio.
Next day the truck starts fine, but now the seatbelt noid is going off all the time and the tranny overdrive is blinking "off" but still shifts fine, and goes into overdrive. The speedometer also works erratically... I read a post about the marker lights leaking, I looked and that's a definite possibility. My question is are all these related back to the GEM or BCM? or more problems?
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This started a few months ago. At first it only happened when making a hard right turn, its a repeated click or grinding noise. Over time it has gotten worse, and now happens when turning either direction, and its worse the faster the car is going. Turing into the parking space at our apartment is fine... turning from one street to another going to work is not. Various things I looked up suggested the cv joint, but when I went to parts stores websites to look up prices all it gave me was cv boot kits in the results. Is this whats actually wrong, and is it something easily fixed for a DIY person?
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I have not driven the F in awhile and had to jump start the car due to dead battery. Afterwards I noticed that whenever I was driving the interior and exterior lights would flash every couple of seconds and the power steering light was on. Do I need to take it to the shop? Drive it around so the batter would juice up more?
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I've been having a problem with some of the interior lights staying on and killing my battery each night. The lights that stay on are the climate control lights, gear shift light, and the lights on the door for the windows and locks. Every time i have to crank up i have to get it jumped off. If i pull the fuse out for the tail lights i no longer have the problem. I was wondering does it have something to do with the lighting control module or maybe the headlight switch.
I also have been having a problem with the a/c making this tapping sound behind the dash. Even with the a/c off you hear this constant sound as long as the car is on. I have no clue what is going on...
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I have a 2000 LS, V6, that won't start, had the battery and alternator checked and are fine, last week i notice when I turn the switch to start up there was a 1 or 2 second delay then it would start, the other day the wife called me at work to tell she she was out and it wouldn't start as I was talikng to her she tried it and it started right up, didn't do it again until this morning, check the fuses and all were ok, it started 2 times then about 30 minutes, nothing, and i mean nothing, the security on the dash doesn't indicate a problem, I turn the switch everything lights ups as it should, everything works(radio...etc.) go to start and nothing but click, sounds like it comes from the fuse/relay box under the hood, starter maybe? relay?
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About 2 weeks ago, my jetta decided it didn't want to start. Was getting symptoms of a bad ignition switch prior to this. Could get it to start one by jiggling the key. Replaced the ignition switch and now could hear the starter relay click but still no start. Yesterday, installed a reman starter and got it to start once. Could here the solenoid click when trying to start. Was reading on here or somewhere that it my be my power control relay, so took the top off to look at it and it was fine. Battery was down about 100 amps so it was replaced and still no start. Going to go see if my vag com will talk to to the ecu. Thinking about pulling the starter out and having it tested.
MK2 are so much easier.
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I have a 1998 Camry. My directional light and click correctly when I tun them on. When I GENTLY turn off the directional signal, I hear the relay continue to click, however the dash lights do not blink, nor do the outside lights. If I let the directional lever jump back into place, the problem does not occur. Is it the switch in the column, or the relay?
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I have a 2004 Excursion with the 6.0 diesel 189k kilometers. Had an egregious delete done about 3 weeks ago. A couple of nights ago the temperature was about 10 degrees f and Whalen I started her it sounded like electrical arcing or grinding. She started and off I went. The next morning it was 0 f went to start and made the same noise and then just stopped cranking. Now when I turn to start I get nothing except the relay click under dash. I tried jumping the solenoid and got nothing. Someone told me that my ground connection might be off the starter. Problem is I can't seem to get at the starter.
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My 2004 EB 6.0 2wd Interior lights do not come on. Running boards lights do. Pulled the fuse and its good. Is there a Interior light relay some where in the truck???
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After searching for the Prius that I wanted, I settled on a 2008 Prius Touring with 171xxx miles. The car was at a sales lot 300 miles away. After a few phone calls pertaining to the Prius, I arranged to meet the lot owner roughly 1/2 way in between for the purchase. We met. Owner said that several dash lights came on as they were driving to meet me. (Yes, I believe him.) He talked with his mechanic, and was told that the problem was most likely the ABS control module (p/n 44510-47050). Owner agreed to shipping me a good used ABS module and discounted the vehicle a bit. I drove it home.
The brake, (!), ABS, and VSC lights are "on"when the car is in the "ready" mode. The parking brake is not on. When I walk up to the car (with SKS fob in my pocket) and open the door, I hear a noise that sounds like water running through an outside faucet that's only partially opened. For identification purpose, I will refer to this noise as a "hissing" noise. When in "ready" mode , the ABS system "cycles", with about 4 seconds hissing, then about 10 seconds not hissing, repeated over and over.
In ready mode (under the hood), the inverter pump is humming away just fine, and the coolant can be seen flowing in it's reservoir. My biggest question is that I have read about others with the unwanted dash lights, but not any with this hissing noise. Does the ABS module replacement sound like it will most likely cure the problem?
And btw, after disconnecting both batteries and waiting for the proper time period, is it really necessary to use the insulated gloves? Years ago, I used Toyota repair manuals, and after receiving the Haynes manual, I'm a bit disappointed.
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On my way home from work today I could not believe my eyes when the Hybrid Warning Light came on…yes, the RED TRIANGLE! I was just cruising down the highway and I heard a relay click and then I saw the warning light illuminate. Also I noticed the A/C air started warming up, the fan stayed on though, so I am guessing the computer shut off the compressor?
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B5.5. Here is what happened: Was driving as usual, running low on gas. Cluster was showing zero miles left for last 10 miles. I successfully made it to the gas station. Trying to open lid - maybe on third press it popped. I thought I'm just imagining things. Drove home another 5 miles. Trying to open trunk - same as gas lid, eventually opened. I turn engine off. No dome light. None of the dome lights working. Everything else appeared still has power. Trying to open trunk again - it's dead. Trying to start the car - does not start. Trying to go home and lock with remote - not working. Lock manually and went home.
Next morning went to check fuses - all OK. Everything still not working just the way I left it. When ignition key turned - cluster comes up. When starter should crank I can hear small click inside relay panel and lighter power turned off momentarily as usual, but no crank. No messages on cluster. Dome lights, door locks by remote and starter/engine don't work. Gas lid and trunk don't work even from driver's door. If I press power lock on driver's door it will lock and immediately unlock all doors.
I did check power on fuses. Three engine related fuses don't have 12V on them. The fuses are 28, 29 and 34, or second and third up from bottom left and fourth up in second column from bottom left. Fuses itself are good.
Here I Got my first suspect: power for all 3 fuses above coming from same relay. I thought if I jump these fuses to live 12 Volts I might be able to start engine. I did jump one fuse at the time. I've heard fuel pump came up but nothing else happened. I understand that it can also be Motronic control for this relay. I pull my OBD reader, but found no codes or freeze frames. I don't have WAG reader.
But Motronic should not affect doors and dome lights (I think so but not sure), unless CAN bus shorted or something. Lights and doors can be related to Central Control and Convenience module, which supposed to be under driver seat. I had rear driver side carped wet few times when I just bought the car, but not lately, not in 6 months. I still think water damage can occur much later after exposure.
So here are mu suspects: Engine power relay, Motronic or Convenience module. It might be something else.
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So I drove my car about a mile to a friend's house and when I went to start it back up 10 minutes later, I got no start and no crank. Just a single loud relay click from the engine compartment. Tow truck tried jumping it and then thwacking the starter solenoid to try and get it going. No dice. Battery seems all good.
Had some interesting things go wrong the day before which may be related to it. First, I was tracking my MPG and fuel trim on a highway trip and the trim and fuel consumption data just stopped coming in. Speedo and RPM data was still coming down the OBDII but I just assumed that my reader took a ****. Later that night I noticed that the lights on my climate control (the manual kind) went out. Tapped on it and it came back on, but only briefly. The bulb looks shot.
No engine strangeness on the drive over or earlier in the day. I drive it most every day. Has 215,000 miles on it.
I'm guessing either a short or bad starter. FWIW, I've also been experiencing the typical starter whine after starting. Was meaning to take it off and grease it. Not sure that has anything to do with it. I also tried rotating the crankshaft to make sure the engine wasn't locked up and it does turn, albeit not incredibly easily. It does have oil on the dipstick.
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This is on my 98 F-150 4x4 with the 5.4 and 4R100. What happens is when I put the truck in reverse and get on and off the brakes, every time I do so a relay clicks. It sounds like it's right up behind the instrument cluster.
I stuck my hand back there and can feel the click resonating in the metal brackets, but I can't figure out where it's coming from. It's never done this before and I'm worried something may fail at an inopportune time.
What this may be? It's a really loud click too and only does this in reverse. Park, drive, neutral etc. are all fine. The odd thing is when I hear the click everything still works as normal, parking lights, brake lights, reverse lights.
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I have an 02 F250 6.8 with 51,000 miles on it. I recently replaced the battery about a week ago, and only actually drove it yesterday for the first time since replacing the battery. I drove it about 25 miles, parked, and when I went to restart, it wouldn't. The starter doesn't crank, so I mean its not a cranking issue as in cranking, and not starting. It only clicks at the relay when turning the key. It acts like when you try to use a wrong chip coded key.
All of the dash lights came on, and I can hear the relay clicking, but that's it. I swapped the relays around, and no luck. If I let it sit a while, about an hour, it will fire right up. The battery cables are tight and free of corrosion. I am curious, since I just put in a new battery, could this be the culprit? Why will it start fine cold, but not hot? I have NEVER had an issue with this truck until now.
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Alright so I have a 99 7.3l. One day I went to start my truck and when I turn the key to the on position all is normal and then when I turn it all the way to crank it nothing happens. I hear a relay click ann thed that's it. Me and a buddy of mine spent quite some time on going through the entire truck. The starter was replaced, the neutral safety switch was replaced and the ignition switch was replaced yet the problem is still there. We then discovered that fuse #20 under the dash keeps blowing with every turn of the key. The manual states that this fuse is a starter motor relay coil PCM ( gasoline only). So if it's gas only why is it even in there. Let me just say that I can jump the fender mounted relay and the truck starts.
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I have a 2001 for f250 with the electronic shift on the fly and when I turn the switch to put it in 4hi or low nothing happens I don't hear a click and the lights don't come on but the 4wd light works it comes on when I first start the truck and I put different relays in that we're good and still nothing I tested the the relay box itself for power and there wasn't any.
I used the truck last year for plowing and it worked sometimes it wouldn't go In or come out but after a few tries it would end up working but I've tried everything I could think of I'm starting to think it's something electrical because the relay box isn't getting power to it but idk if a vacuum leak would do that or a bad transfer case motor or iwe solenoid or if it's something more like a broken wire some where.
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I have a 2004 GX470 that has been the best car. However a new sound has been heard coming from the interior behind the dash. Click Click Click and is constant even when a/c is off and radio is off. Only happens when car is running.
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Its and 09, I can hear a relay click under the dash. It has gotten really hot since i bought it in sept to the point where I had to turn it off because I thought it was going to burn my bottom. I am guessing its not an easy fix.
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