Mitsubishi - Lancer :: 2010 - Blue Smoke Under Load
Feb 13, 2016
I have a 2010 lancer evolution, intermittently under light to no acceleration the car emits a large cloud of blue-grey smoke from the exhaust accompanied by noticeable oil consumption. This only happens when in 5th or 6th gear or when it changes from 5th to 6th. It only seems to happen when accelerating onto the highway or when going up an incline in a high gear. It only ever lets out smoke when under 2500rpm, never above 2500 and only for a second or two. if I downshift to 5th while this is happening, it stops. I'm at a loss as to why its burning oil.
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I own a Lancer Evolution X and I've been having a strange issue where, when accelerating around 2500-3500 rpm a thick cloud of blueish smoke starts pouring from the exhaust for about a second or two accompanied by a loss in power. The smoke stops quickly and then it runs like normal. This only happens once in a while for a second or two. When idling there is no smoke. Or at Wot. There is no coolant mixing with oil. The oil was recently changed with the proper oil. and it still happens once in a while. I checked the turbo and there is no shaft play or oil inside of it. There is no loss of boost. Although I did see a tiny pool of oil near the turbo inlet and some more oil coating the inside of the intake pipe. is it possible that the turbo just sucks up some oil that collects at the end of the intake? the PCV line which connects to the intake appears to be letting some oil into the intake.
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I have a 2010 Lancer (standard) and the air vents don't open or turn depending on the position of the air controller dial. I have to turn the air to defrost, back to front, back to defrost...several times for the air to come out. I can hear what sounds like a motor turning what I presume are air deflectors of some sort, but the air doesn't come out.
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I have a mysterious exhaust issue on my 1991 Montero. After the engine warms up and I have been stopped at a red light for a minute or so when I accelerate away from the light a cloud of blue (I assume oil) smoke puffs out of the exhaust pipe. If I sit in the vehicle with it idling for, say, 5 minutes then the cloud of blue smoke can last all the way down the block. Then it goes away. Spark plugs are all clean. PCV valve recently replaced. Mo warning lights. What can this be?
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2005 F250, 6.0, 60K miles, recently (within last 1K miles) had ARP studs, EGR delete and new oil cooler installed. Shortly after (5-6 weeks later) I noticed blue smoke under any load (taking off from red light, backing up) but not at idle or startup. Was using the "Performance" SCT canned tune after the stud install, but had the "65HP Tow" canned tune installed when I first noticed the smoke and now back to stock after noticed the smoke as a precaution. Everything else original except FICM, filters and batteries and use 5w40 Mobil 1 since new.
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Ok, I have owned my truck for almost a year and it has 151,000 miles. I have noticed on a few occasions puffs of blue smoke and especially at night in the headlights behind me I notice a lot of smoke when I'm getting into the throttle hard. Under normal driving conditions I don't usually see anything.
Today I noticed it when I was backing my camper(8000lbs) up a small hill onto the side of my garage. It was puffing blue pretty good going up the hill while it was under load.
I have no check engine light on, the truck seems to be running fine. My oil consumption is about 2 quarts every 3-4000 miles. I tried the blow by test with the oil cap but besides some smoke out the filler neck no problems... I don't know very much about diesels so for me to try and trouble shoot this is a problem.
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I have a 2002 Lancer with just over 150K miles. So far, he's been pretty solid. He starts when I want him to and stops when he is supposed to. Last summer his A/C started acting up a bit. When I am in stop-and-go city traffic, everything is fine. As soon as I get on the highway and am cruising at any speed for more than 15 minutes, the A/C stops blowing cold air and just blows as if I just had the fan on, but not the A/C. If I slow down and then accelerate pretty quickly and can make him shift through a few gears, the A/C will kick back in. At first I just thought I was getting some attitude from him (his name is Miles - pretty clever for a car name, huh?) because I moved him from NW Arkansas to the Gulf Coast and he didn't like the heat and wanted me to know it. I took him in for a standard oil change and had the mechanic run an A/C diagnostic. I didn't tell him of any problem I was having because I thought it might work itself out (stranger things may have happened). He told me everything looked good: good compression, blowing at 41 degrees, something else I forgot...anyway Miles passed his A/C test.
The mechanic did tell me that the battery would need to be changed soon. Well in my highly-trained mechanic mind (I have a degree in Art History; that tells you how vast my knowledge is about all things with engines), I thought, "OK, when I replace this battery, that'll give the A/C some more power and everything will be hunky dory.? Not quite. He's still having the same problem. So my next thought was that maybe a fan belt could be slipping or stretching when I'm maintaining a constant speed. Maybe? Occasionally all the backlit instruments lose their lighting. They all come back on, but it doesn't coincide with the timing of the A/C issues. The "Service Engine Soon" light has been on for a while and the "SRS" light will come on every now and again, but that doesn't jive with the A/C timing either. But, that's the story of Miles.I'd like to keep him for another 150K if possible.
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I own a Mitsubishi Lancer 2005 model, From the past recent days I feel some kind of missing with the car, when we try to accelerate it. It seems to be some kind of fuel injection issues. I think doing a fuel injection service would be better. I didn't have much knowledge about car repair.
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i have a 2004 Mitsubishi lancer es 2.0 engine, and it's an automatic. I seem to consistently get a little under 23 mpg no matter how i drive. I've noticed that when going down the highway at 65 mph, it is at like 2900 RPM, is this normal? We also own a 2010 toyota corolla 1.8 auto and it only revs like 2400, and a 2005 xB that revs the same as the corolla, i'm just confused that with a bigger engine, it would rev so much higher.
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I'm really puzzled by the electrical issue I'm having with my wife's 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer. It's got a 120,000 miles and we've owned it since new. It has had almost zero problems up until this point.
The other day, my wife calls and says that her A/C isn't working, it's just blowing hot air. When she got home, she turned the car off, removed her key, and noticed that the climate control blower was running. She turned it off and went inside. She had the radio on.
When I came home, I verified that with no key in the ignition, turning on the blower motor switch did turn on the blower motor. I started the car and immediately noticed both the condenser cooling fan and the engine cooling fan both immediately started running. I turned on the A/C, got nothing but hot air, and verified that the compressor was not turning.
I turned the car off and decided to check for fuses. When I pulled the A/C fuse under the hood, I heard a loud CLICK from the A/C compressor area. When I reinserted the fuse, I received another click. I then pulled out the A/C compressor clutch relay, and heard the same click. Since I wasn't sure if it really was the A/C clutch, I asked my sister-in-law to plug in and unplug the relay while I put my hand on the compressor. She did it several times and before I could verify it was the A/C clutch...it stopped. At this point, unplugging the A/C compressor relay would not cause the click. Also, unplugging the A/C fuse would not cause the click.
I then turned on the blower motor (key still off!) and it didn't start running. I started the car, and the A/C worked fine! So I drove 50 miles back and forth to work the next day and figured it was some sort of fluke.
This morning I get a call that her battery is dead. I get home, put the charger on it, and as soon as the voltage came up a little, there was the click from the A/C clutch. Unplugging the A/C clutch relay caused another click. Relay in - click. Relay out - click. Same with the A/C fuse. Then, like before, plugging the relay or fuse back in no longer caused the click.
I do have the service manual and looking at the wiring diagram...the blower relay coil can only get power with the key in ACC or RUN. The A/C clutch is more complicated...it gets power from the SAME source - the ACC or RUN position on the ignition switch. But, ground is through the engine management computer (car is a 5-speed).
The only thing that seems to be common and could explain everything would be a bad ignition switch - the blower and A/C compressor power, plus the engine management computer all seem to be on the same contact on the ignition switch. The service manual ignition switch schematic is very confusing.
I don't want to throw parts at it...but that seems to be the only thing that makes sense?
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I have a Manual 2003 Mitsubishi OZ Rally Lancer. She was sitting for awhile due to the main cylinder causing issues for the clutch, which is now fixed. But I noticed the other day that whenever I press the gas there's a tap noise for a second and goes away, it happens every time I put my foot on the gas. The sound is like someone tapping there foot on tile floor. I can also feel the tap noise.
I'm not sure what it could be. I know the passenger front tire is tinking when I drive around, which I'm getting fixed this afternoon, but what could be causing this noise when I accelerate and how urgent would it need to be fixed?
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I was in 1st gear and was about to turn then a car literally going about 40 over the speed limit was coming so by accident as i was still in 1st gear slowed down to much before i could put the car in neutral and it stalled in gear. Would this cause any damage
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Wondering if this would cause any wear to the clutch or anything but was in gear 3 about to upshift but my foot slipped off the clutch and the car didnt jerk the rpms just went back to where they were. Curious if that would do anything
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My 09 lancer pulls to the left even after alignment what are some of the reason its still pulling and when i apply the brakes it also pulls to the left....
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I have an 02 mitsu lancer and over the course of 3 days the car has gotten REALLY loud only when accelerating. it sounds like it has been straightpiped but the muffler is still there. Also when accelerating the car vibrates very noticeably - I can feel it in the steering column and the gas pedal. When I have been accelerating and come off the gas, the car makes a loud hiss that sounds like blowoff valves which is weird because this is obviously a naturally aspirated car. I would have thought there could just be a hole in the exhaust system but that doesn't explain the vibrating and all of these symptoms arose at the same time. What could this be?
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2002 Mitsubishi Lancer speedometer quit. How do I fix?
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I have a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer OZ and the problem currently associated with it is that blower motor is running no matter if the key is in the ignition or not.
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I have a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES (110,000 miles) that is working perfectly with just minor, small hiccups. A few months ago I took the temperature control console off (the giant plastic piece on the dashboard that has the ac/heater controls and knobs) to replace the wires because the fan level knob was stuck. That was successful.
However, a few weeks later the AC button is stuck on (green light on). The AC light will not turn off no matter what. I've tried to take the plastic piece apart and even unplugged the console to take a look at the actual button itself and it all seemed to be alright (im no mechanic). I've tried pushing it a hundred times, in different sequences, anything you can imagine - will not turn off. As a result, we have no heat.
Was it my fault? Did I do something? I don't know. What do you gentlemen think? I've been told that the blend door is stuck but this is a Mitsubishi and every part of it screams "Don't touch me!" so I'm slightly scared of going too far into the dashboard.
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I have a 02 mit. lancer.. I will be going down the highway at 55mph and all the sudden my car's transmission shift down a gear. (maybe 2) it is an awful jolt to the car and me. From then on it is stuck in that gear. Even when i stop at a stop sign it will not shift. if I shut the car off and turn it back on then its fine. It may be fine for a mile or a hundred. Not sure if it is a transmission problem or a computer problem.
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Vehicle is a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer with 123,000 miles. During moderate to hard acceleration in a straight line, especially in gears 1 to 3, the front of the car vibrates. The harder I accelerate, the worse the vibration gets. Once I get into 4th gear and get up to 40 MPH, I can put the pedal to the floor and while it will do it, it is very slight. Check engine light is off.
Interestingly, on the way to work there is a 25 MPH cloverleaf and coming out of the cloverleaf onto the highway, it did not do it until the wheels were pointed straight ahead.
Deceleration, even when aggressively downshifting, is vibration-free.
I do not believe it is ignition related - the car idles fine, has plenty of power under hard acceleration, and doesn't do it when going around that cloverleaf. (As a side note, about a year ago a plug wire went bad, leaving one cylinder with no spark. In this case the engine vibrated violently, but was obviously down on power.)
There are no strange noises in the front end. No clicking around corners typical with a failing constant velocity joint, and no mechanical thuds or sqweaks over bumps I'd expect from a failing ball joint or bushing.
I am having some unusual tire wear on the outside edges of the tires, like you would see with under-inflation, but tire pressure is fine. In my mind, this points to bad ball joints.
It still has the original constant velocity joints and axles as well as the original ball joints. The one motor mount I can see looks okay. I'm thinking in order of liklihood (most likely to least likely):
1) bad axle
2) bad ball joints
3) bad motor mount
Anything else I need to check? Wheel bearings? If I do replace the axles, I will replace the front wheel bearings while I'm in there.
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I've got a 2008 Mitsubishi lancer. I've noticed a gradual vibration coming from the front suspension. At first I could just hear it, but now I can feel it in my steering wheel and a little in my pedals. It doesn't vibrate when I accelerate, nor does it vibrate (too badly) when I brake, but when I'm holding the speed consistent, or letting off the accelerator is when I really feel it. I also feel it when I turn the wheel slightly to the left, but once I get past this (maybe 5 degree turn) threshold it stops vibrating. I was thinking a wheel bearing or CV joint, but wanted to confirm.
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