Mitsubishi - Eclipse :: 2007 - After Sitting For 6 Month Burning Smell At Start Up?


Feb 26, 2016

Curious if this could be a normal thing from it sitting for 6 months... I have a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse.

Took the battery out for the Winter. Just started the car today only ran it for about 2 min when I went to close the hood after shutting it off I could smell a faint burning smell the smell resembled a burning rubber smell it was not strong but I also didnt run the car for long.

I amworried now to drive it or start it as I dont wanna cause harm what to do? I looked best I could and all the wires look fine.. no signs of chewing or anything.

Do you think its safe for me to start it and maybe just let it Idle and see if the smell fades? Im worried about it catching fire.

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Eclipse - Mitsubishi :: Smell Of Burning Brake Pads

Ok, so my brake pads are actually not smelling like "victory" right now. what these symptoms might mean?

Background: 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse. I think this might have all started when I hit the brakes pretty hard one day, hard enough to normally skid a car but the car has ABS, so it did not skid. Didn't notice these signs immediately after, but they have happening for weeks now and here they are:

Front driver's side tire bumps, sounds like a jack hammer but slower. Can get bad enough where I feel the steering wheel jarring so I have to hold on with both hands (I don't have power steering.) At first I suspected bad tire maybe, but the tire is fine.

First few times it did that, it smelled like burned brake pads. Only saw this once at night but the rotor got so hot that when I pulled over to look, it was glowing orange. It do longer smells like brake pads, but it still shakes.

The shaking and hammering stops and starts form one day to the next. I drive on the highway, then maybe 20 minutes I have to pull over and drive on the road. If I let it rest an hour, it might go away.

It happens randomly at different speeds. One day it does it at highway speeds, the next day, 40 and some other day at 20mph. I jacked up the car and got both front tires off the ground. Then I started the car and put it drive:

a.) the left side would not rotate!
b.) gave it gas, the tranny shifted gears, got up all the way to 35 "mph" on the speedometer, and still the left tire would not rotate.

The tire can rotate with enough applied force using a crow bar. Nothing terribly strong...18" bar, I would say 20lbs torque. By the way the 30 amp? ABS fuse in the hood is not there, never has been. I lowered the car and it drove. But it still acts up from time to time.

edit: it doesn't shake so much now as it does hammer. But I really don't feel the car tire hammering or bumping, I can hear it. Metal to metal, like a little gremlin is hammering the inside of the hood or something.

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I purchased a 1999.5 Jetta VR6. The guy who owned it said he lost the key, had a new one cut, but not programmed. It started and ran fine with the new key for about 2-4 minutes. He was driving it, it ran perfect, and just shut off. It cranked and never fired.

It's been sitting for maybe a month. I put a brand new battery in it, tried the key. It cranks, will not fire. The sound of it cranking sounds a little off, like low compression or something. Could this be from the key, or does it sound like something else? I'm not sure how an uncoded key would react. I'm towing it to the dealer to have the keys programmed, but I'm trying to think of what else it could be. I was going to check spark or fuel, but I'm not sure what the immobilizer does to make the car not run.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Won't Start After Sitting For Month - Fuel Pump Relay?

1999 4.6L won't start after sitting a month. Ran fine before, now won't start. Cranks fine. Cannot hear fuel pump turn on when key is turned. Fuel pump fuse is good.

Fuel pump relay clicks a few times when key is turned. Is this normal? I am hoping it is the relay and not the pump. What should I check next? The wires at the pump? What should they read?

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While driving my Montero sport last week, I began smelling a burning rubber smell from the air vents. At the same time I noticed, on the dashboard, that both the brake, and, battery indicators had lit up. There was no smoke, mist, or off sounds, coming from the engine, and, the engine seemed to be running no differently than before this occurred. I drove home, parked the car for 5 days, and, yesterday visually inspected what I could see, which was almost nothing unusual. I started the engine and let it run for about 10 minutes in park.

The engine ran normal, no noticeable knocks or pings, no shaking of the engine, the belts ran smooth, no noticeable leaks of any kind. I checked all fluids and they were at normal levels, only the power steering showed a slightly lower than mid level of fluid, not anywhere near low.line. But, as soon as I started the engine, the dashboard indicators lit up and stayed on. There was only a very faint smell of rubber at the end of the 10 minute running of the engine, barely noticeable. The only thing that I did different recently was about 2 weeks ago I added a quart Pennzoil high mileage motor oil 5-30 instead of the usual GTX high mileage motor oil 5-30 that I usually put in the engine, as there was none available at the store. The auto has ran very well for the past year.

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My son had the starter replaced on his 97 Eclipse a couple of months ago and ever since then it seems to be more difficult to start if it has been sitting for a few hours or more. It cranks for 5 or 10 seconds before it catches. If the car is warm or has only sat for an hour or two it starts fine. The battery has been tested and is fine. The fuel filter was replaced about 30k miles ago. He also thinks he has one injector that is performing below par. It idles a tad rough. A friend said to clean or change the air filter and change the fuel filter. He had injector cleaner put in it the other day but that has not solved the starting issue at all yet. Don't know if the injector issue is causing the poor starting or not.

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Since the end of September 2015 my 1991 Cadillac Deville has been sitting on the driveway untouched. I wanted to drive it again, but before I did I wanted to ask you, members of the forum, if there is anything I should do to the car prior to driving it?

The vehicle has been sitting there untouched for about 7 months and I’m concerned about the gas, potentially the oil. Just prior to it sitting there I had all of the fuel injectors replaced which cost a fortune, so I want to be sure to tackle this issue of bad gas in the best possible way.

A little aside, I know the Cadillac needs a new battery. I would also like to mention the last oil change it had was probably a year ago which I used full synthetic mobile one and I probably put a thousand miles on it since that last oil change. The Cadillac was in full working order prior to having it sit there for almost 7 months.

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This winter I plan to drive across country from California to Florida in my 2001 Mitsubishi eclipse, unfortunately it’s AC it out and the mechanics said it was the blower and possibly other things and it would coast at least 800 dollars. As I drive across the country in the winter I do not want my car the fog up and would like to keep my windows rolled down to keep air circulation going but if it’s going to be raining that option is out. I’ve searched many different sites online to find a side window deflector but it seems that there isn’t any for that year. If AC repair is out of the question, and a side window deflector doesn’t seem to exist for this model does.

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Mitsubishi - Eclipse :: 2001 - No Clutch Pressure

My eclipse never had any problems it has 137k miles on it and a couple weeks ago we got a big snow so I didn't go anywhere so the car sat in the cold for 3 days without moving I tried starting it to go to work to.

Found out I had no pressure on my clutch went all the way to the floor. I bled the clutch refilled and it worked, drove it for 2 weeks no problem. We just got another big snow let it sit again n now it is doing the same thing. My mechanic said he couldn't find any leaks but I'm thinking it has to b a master or a slave leak.

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I am thinking of buying a car but can't decide between a 2003 Nissan 350Z with 87000 miles on it, or a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse with 57000 miles on it. It will be a commuter car for me. I don't know a lot about Mitsubishis.

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I recently noticed my car is leaking its motor oil into the radiator. There is no water in the motor oil and the transmission oil is at it's appropriate level and such.

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I have a 99 Eclipse which is pretty low... I guess while driving I had scraped the oil pan on something but didn't think anything of it until my car was sitting and i noticed loss of oil. It doesn't leak when the car is idling, but as soon as the engine is off, i see a thin stream of oil pouring out. My question is, is there anything i can seal the hole with so i do not immediately need to replace the entire pan?

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A few weeks ago my '03 Mitsubishi Eclipse missed for the first time since I've had it. It's a 4-banger, so it was definitely noticeable. Fast forward a couple weeks and after a trip to Texas (from Tennessee), it begins to run between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM on start-up. There is a lack of power (not attributed to the small engine size) that was not present until a short time ago. It stopped doing that, and today a service engine light came on. The code was P0134. Some things about the car- the oil is changed religiously every 3-4 thousand miles, and the only major repairs were several years ago- the clutch and head gasket. Spark plugs are 2 years old, and coil packs were checked out around then as well.

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My 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse will continue running when the key switch is shut off and the key is actually removed. This occurs intermittently and the dealer can not give me a cause for it!?

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I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse, It will shake vigorously when it is in gear with my foot on the brake,(say at a stop light). But as soon as i let off of the brake and press on the gas the shaking completely stops. But as soon as I stop again it starts to shake again.

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