My 2000 Eclipse has a really bad shaking problem when put into reverse or drive. Also, it bogs down really bad when accelerating when first put into gear. It is the gs model. And I've searched everywhere online for an answer. It shifts fine. The idle drops down to around 500 when put into gear.. Whats the problem..
View 19 RepliesMy son has a 2000 Eclipse which is making a horrible noise. Some say it is the lifters, some say it is a rod. Sounds like an airplane engine. The oil was not that low, maybe two quarts when we checked. He wants to sell it for 2000.00. Do you think it could be repaired and then sold? Do they have a problem common with this sound?
View 3 RepliesI acquired a 2000 Eclipse from a friend of mine. Within 24 hours of having the car, it died, and I got a jump. Went to get the battery tested, the charge was around 55% and the guy told me that he could not test the alternator because the battery tested bad, but he got out a multimeter and told me that it was only outputting around 12v, and said that was all he could do.
The battery was brand new (replaced just before I got the car), and the alternator was replaced in January or February according to the previous owner.
I've been able to take the battery out and throw it on a charger, but for what it's worth the terminals on the car are in very poor shape. Rusted out and seem very "finicky", even if they are installed nice and tight, sometimes it still won't supply power to the car and I have to adjust them. Obviously this might indicate that replacing the terminals would solve my issues, however, the alternator output should test fine then, yes?
I found the fault codes, I need the steps to fix them.
P0760 - Shift Solenoid,
CP0755 - Shift Solenoid
BP0340 - Camshaft piston sensor "A" Circuit
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit
I'd like to think it's as easy as replacing the sensors, but it never is.
I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 FWD. about 138, xxx miles
My left rear tire/wheel has free - play (clicking movement) when grabbed at ONLY the 3 o'clock position and push/pulled back and forth (no free-play at 12-6 direction) in the air.
I had grinding noise from rear left side wheel when turning right couple weeks ago. After replacing wheel hub bearing assembly, the noise is gone. But still remains the movement ONLY at 3 o'clock. I replaced stabilizer bar links in both rear sides. This link doesn't look like the reason of free-play (clicking movement).
Also, I tested (push or pull) after switching the other side(right) wheel, it still had clicking movement at 3 pm. Therefore, it is not a wheel problem itself, I guess.
And I took off the wheel and fasten the lug nuts onto the rotor itself (so, without wheel in this case), then push/pull the rotor at 3 pm, but this time no movement in any directions. @@;; weird.. ONLY, I can feel the clicking movement at 3pm on the Wheel (or tire) even after rotating wheel, exactly in same spot (3 pm) movement~!!!! What's this case??
All 4 wheels aligned recently after got new tires.
I scrutinized inside wheel while pushing/pulling back and forth. But I cannot figure out which one is problem.
1. Knuckle.
2. Lower control arm ( or Rear rear control arm, not typo) which has a Ball joint and a cam bolt the other side.
3. Rear front control arm
4. trailing arm.
5. stabilizer bar link. (new)
6. Wheel hub bearing assembly (new, double-checked the nuts and torques)
7. Rotor and pads (new, if I push the rotor itself then no wobble or clicking at all directions as desribed above)
Where should I direct my attention and/or what component(s) should I look at given the indications above?
When I pull/push the wheel at 3 o'clock, it feels like wiggling the whole part of lower knuckle where is the connection part between the part of 4 bolt (backside) of hub assembly and lower side of knuckle.
I heard that 12 and 6 is usually an indication of ball joint, and play 9 and 3 is usually in indication of steering components ( tie rods , steering shaft or rack itself ), and all around play is an indication of wheel bearing (usually accompanied with a growling noise ).
This winter I plan to drive across country from California to Florida in my 2001 Mitsubishi eclipse, unfortunately it’s AC it out and the mechanics said it was the blower and possibly other things and it would coast at least 800 dollars. As I drive across the country in the winter I do not want my car the fog up and would like to keep my windows rolled down to keep air circulation going but if it’s going to be raining that option is out. I’ve searched many different sites online to find a side window deflector but it seems that there isn’t any for that year. If AC repair is out of the question, and a side window deflector doesn’t seem to exist for this model does.
View 19 RepliesMy eclipse never had any problems it has 137k miles on it and a couple weeks ago we got a big snow so I didn't go anywhere so the car sat in the cold for 3 days without moving I tried starting it to go to work to.
Found out I had no pressure on my clutch went all the way to the floor. I bled the clutch refilled and it worked, drove it for 2 weeks no problem. We just got another big snow let it sit again n now it is doing the same thing. My mechanic said he couldn't find any leaks but I'm thinking it has to b a master or a slave leak.
I am thinking of buying a car but can't decide between a 2003 Nissan 350Z with 87000 miles on it, or a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse with 57000 miles on it. It will be a commuter car for me. I don't know a lot about Mitsubishis.
View 8 RepliesI recently noticed my car is leaking its motor oil into the radiator. There is no water in the motor oil and the transmission oil is at it's appropriate level and such.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 Eclipse which is pretty low... I guess while driving I had scraped the oil pan on something but didn't think anything of it until my car was sitting and i noticed loss of oil. It doesn't leak when the car is idling, but as soon as the engine is off, i see a thin stream of oil pouring out. My question is, is there anything i can seal the hole with so i do not immediately need to replace the entire pan?
View 9 RepliesI have a 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse. When I start my car, it will only go through second gear. If I stop, turn the car off and back on, It will go through the gears and I can drive normally. I am now just putting the car in neutral while driving, turning it off and on again and it will shift like normal. Otherwise, it just stays in the lower gear. This has been steadily getting worse meaning, I would only have to stop and start the car once on a trip and now it is whenever I slow down to a lower gear. Every now and then it will jerk also. I thought it was a transmission issue but the transmission worked fine most of the time when this started and still does except when I slow down. The interesting thing is that it works fine when I turn the engine off and on again so I was thinking something else. The guy from advanced auto said it was possibly a power issue with something that makes the transmission shift and the transmission guy said it was electrical.
View 5 RepliesI have 2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse with ~105K miles on it. I bought it 3 months ago. It has a strange problem. The RPM starts to drop, whenever I stop at signals or stop signs, or stop for any other reason. It comes back to normal when I turn off the fan. I am not sure what is going on.
View 7 RepliesA few weeks ago my '03 Mitsubishi Eclipse missed for the first time since I've had it. It's a 4-banger, so it was definitely noticeable. Fast forward a couple weeks and after a trip to Texas (from Tennessee), it begins to run between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM on start-up. There is a lack of power (not attributed to the small engine size) that was not present until a short time ago. It stopped doing that, and today a service engine light came on. The code was P0134. Some things about the car- the oil is changed religiously every 3-4 thousand miles, and the only major repairs were several years ago- the clutch and head gasket. Spark plugs are 2 years old, and coil packs were checked out around then as well.
View 6 RepliesMy 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse will continue running when the key switch is shut off and the key is actually removed. This occurs intermittently and the dealer can not give me a cause for it!?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse, It will shake vigorously when it is in gear with my foot on the brake,(say at a stop light). But as soon as i let off of the brake and press on the gas the shaking completely stops. But as soon as I stop again it starts to shake again.
View 5 Replies2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT 5 speed... Wife's car, has 142000 on it, started out 6 months ago as a hard jerky motion, has since calmed down to a single stutter sometime within first 20 miles. It was overdue for 120000 mile tune up, had that done along with timing belt replacement, still does it. Check engine was on before taking to dealer, off when I picked it up, back on next day. It's sometimes almost not noticeable, other times it gets your attention. Seems like it has to be electrical to happen so quickly, then it's gone in a fraction of a second, like it just doesn't fire for a tenth of a second. Was going to try distributor next, but don't want to continue sinking money in it and not be confident that I'm going down the right road, especially after the expensive tune up.
View 3 RepliesThe clutch doesn't slip all the time. Sometimes when I put it in third then put the peddle to the floor, it slips for half a second then grabs. Lately noticed it in 4th and 5th gear too. When it does slip, it slips the whole trip. Then later that day it might not slip at all. At first I thought clutch was going, but when does a clutch get better? From what I remember it usually stays the same or gets worse. The fact that there's days it grabs perfect without a slip, leads me to believe something else is causing it. Maybe it's not disengaging or engaging fully.. linkage problem perhaps? I did a quick bleed, hoping it was air. Was better for a couple days after that, then started slipping again.
View 2 RepliesOur 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse engine heated up. The Anti Freeze reservoir is full but the radiator was low which caused the car to heat up. Why isthe anti freeze not getting to the radiator? The hose seems clear. We filled the radiator with anti freeze and the seems to be working fine. Why is it not sucking from the reservoir.
View 3 RepliesEver since I had a tire blow out on the highway almost 4 months ago, I have noticed there is a creaking noise that comes from underneath the car at times. Kind of sounds like a ship creaking or something. Tried to get the mechanic to listen to it,he drove the car around the block but all heard was the convertible top hooks rattling. But my girlfriend heard it the other night and she said that wasnt normal and I need to bet it checked out.
Could it just need to be "lubed" I figure those placed like jiffy lube must offer that service for some reason. The mechanic said no. I had a car that the axle broke while I was driving it down the street... I was going really slow at the time. Anyway, what could be making that noise? its a 2003 mitsubishi spyder eclipse convertible with 80,000 miles on it. I am always worrying over this dang noise.
My son called me today and said his power steering belt went bad. He says it had been making noise for a while- at least that is what he thinks the noise is- a kind of high whining sound when you first start the car? I don't know if that makes any sense or not. He also said that today not only does his power steering not work, the car is now acting strangely electrically speaking. The speedometer and the radio have stopped working completely. Is any of this related? I am completely clueless about electrical problems- other than the possibility of some blown fuses or a wire that shorted out. The car is a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder. He is out of town at school I don't have the luxury of looking at it myself to troubleshoot or give any more particulars.
View 6 Replies2001 Mitsu Eclipse:
My right tire seized up--in drive-thru of all places--actually not a bad place I guess...anyway, the right tire didn't seem to move and you could hear the tire screeching as it dragged along. I pulled over and then went forward then reverse 2-3 times and that seemed to fix it and I was able to drive home.
At home after a hour of sitting I started it up and it had seized up again. I took the drum off, expecting to see something broken, but the brakes looked ok, though maybe 2/3rds worn...I wiggle the brakes left and right a tiny bit (I didn't know what else to do), the put the drum back on. And it's fixed!
But I'm sure the problem will return? What is the most likely problem? From searching around a bit, Master Cylinder seems to be ruled out since it's only one side? My next move might be Greasing the caliper pins.
I read that maybe replacing the rubber hoses might work? Is there any way to check the integrity of the hoses or whatever before I do that? I don't want to replace hoses unless they really need to be replaced.