Mini One 05 - Vehicle Shudders Randomly As If It Is Cold When Stationary / Judder When Moving
Aug 29, 2015
When stationary the vehicle shudders randomly as if it is cold. When moving it seems to judder and almost burst with power then lose power again, over 3000 rpm the problem becomes less of an issue but the vehicle does occasionally judder still as if the tyres have low pressure - which they don't.
At first I thought the oil may need filling up but after this the problem still persisted. I have also checked all spark plugs and no wires or tubes appear to have come loose. I read on anpther forum that the clutch have have been soaked? - If a new clutch is needed, how much that would cost?
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2001 4.0 4x4 auto trans... Problem, tranny judders when coming to a stop moving at around 3-4mph. Engine drops to around 500rpm and maybe one second later returns to normal as the tranny seems to disengage. No judder or shifting problem when accelerating.
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We have a 2008 Prius with 11,000 miles ,which is new to us for about 2 months now.
My wife and I both have noticed a "shudder of the car - when the motor shuts down" at a stop light or whenever needed. It seems a little bit more noticeable than in the previous two months of driving it.
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I have replaced all the parts i can think of and yet my car will just die anywhere when the temperature gets above about 80. If i drive it for any length of time when i restart it, it sounds like a very large fan is starting and shudders for a minute.
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We are getting hit again here in Indy with harsh temps. So far this winter my 2002 Kia Sedona Mini van has handled it pretty well, until this morning. I went out to start it and it wouldn't. Well it finally did but took a while. Normally I get in turn the key and it starts. This morning I tried that it started then died. I tried to restart and it would turn over but not start. This continued for a few minutes until I had to pump the pedel and keep it depressed a little before it would start. Once it started I gave it a little gas and everything was okay and it ran just fine. What might have been the cause to this early morning cold starting issue?
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I bought a 2007 Mini Cooper, used, at a Ford dealership in August of 2010. For nearly two years I loved this car and didn't have to pay much in the way of maintenance. I bought the car at 55k miles, and now it has 92k. Over the past year, I have noticed a rattling noise at cold startup, and it was especially loud in the winter, and I also noticed that the car consumes oil. As the oil got lower, the rattling got worse, and whenever I topped off the oil the rattling stopped. I brought this up at the MINI dealership (where I get all my repairs on the car) during a routine oil change and they didn't take it seriously.
Well, Tuesday morning on my way to work, there was a sudden loss of power and the engine started missing bad. I was almost to where I work when the car just couldn't hold and idle and stalled. It wouldn't turn over after that and it sounded really "sick". I had the car towed to the dealer, where they told me the timing belt tensioner failed and it allowed the timing belt to jump "a great distance". Apparently, these are "interference" engines (a term I learned because of this incident) so the screwed up timing destroyed the engine. The dealer said it will cost 8,000 to completely replace the engine.
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I've noticed that if I press the EV button when stopped at a stop sign or red light, I can get the vehicle moving up to 25 MPH with the battery. This must save fuel. But I wonder if I am doing something that causes problems with the battery, motor, or other systems.
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I have a 2004 gmc sierra and it is having heater issues. For a while now when starting it up cold it would not blow any warm air until the vehicle is moving. The other day while driving it would go back and forth between hot and cold.
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I have a 2010 Grand Caravan, and the engine just stops while moving down the road. Once you shift to neutral, the engine starts again easily. The only common thing we've found is that the skid control light goes on. It doesn't seem to happen when going more than 30 mph, and does seem to happen more when the temps outside are changing, but both when we get a warm spell or a cold snap. The recall work on the key assembly has been done, and the key always seem to be in the on position, so it's not that known issue. The local garage couldn't find anything or even replicate the problem. The dealership replaced the spark plugs and did a fuel system cleaning. Those were probably due, but they didn't seem to work much.
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OK, this is the second time I noticed this. I'm at a stop light, looking around, suddenly, I notice I am slightly moving forward. Is my foot (on the brake) just too relaxed, or what? I have never experienced this before in any vehicle.
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I have a 1996 VW Passat TDI which has a 5 speed stick (they all did). Yes, it's really old but it runs great and gets 45 mpg. However, the model is probably not relevant to this problem. My question has to do with clutch performance. When the car is cold (and it's cold outside), the car sometimes shudders starting out in first gear for a couple minutes. I have tried to be extra careful letting out the clutch in these circumstances. Sometimes that works, but it doesn't eliminate the problem. After about 5 minutes or so the clutch starts working well as it usually does.
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Three days ago while stopped at a light the car creeped forward forcing me to press harder on the brake to keep vehicle from moving.
Next day drove for 100+ miles with some stop and go traffic no problems. Third day drove 50 miles and upon arriving at home brakes felt spongy and nearly hit the floor the dash illuminated "Check Brake System".
My Camry has 5437 miles on it.
The dealer just called and said they need to replace a "brake booster". They said there is a TSB that addresses this issue in a VIN range.
Image here : YouTube [URL].....
I'm glad I was only stopping to pull into my drive way and not the freaking stop and go freeway traffic on the way to work in the morning.
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I have a 2010 explorer. I bought it with a lot of the lights, i.e. tire pressure, skid control, abs, service engine, air bag, service rcs and some others on and these systems are not working. a module was missing associated to the AWD system, I have put one in but awd still does not work through the 4 high and 4 low work. The automatic door locks does not lock when the vehicle starts moving. Some of the lights on the dash and doors don't work either.
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I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0L with 190,000 miles. My wife was driving it and the vehicle stopped moving. Sounds like the torque converter whining and will not drive in any gear or 4wd.
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I have had an ongoing issue with my 2010 Santa Fe Limited with the battery randomly being drawn down and would not start the vehicle.
I saw a post somewhere on the internet to remove the Negative connection on the fender and grind it down to the bare metal so that it has a good ground connection.
I have done that last week, but last night before turning in for the night i looked out the window and saw lights in my driveway. I went out to investigate and found that the Santa Fe's turn signal/hazard lights were all on front and back and not flashing.
I got in the vehicle and turned the lights on and off with no keys and they all went out.
I got the schematics for the Santa Fe and i believe it could be the Hazard relay that seems to be located inside the I/P Junction box or could be the Hazard Relay Control in the BCM.
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As the title says, I have a 2014 Passat TDI that was bought brand new back in September. I now have 6,300 miles on it.
Anyways, started it up last night, and started backing down my driveway that has a bit of an incline. Basically, I just have to ride the brake into the street, no acceleration needed.
As soon as the car got into the street, the engine just stopped. Not stuttering or anything, just like I had turned the key off, but all electrical systems still on. Put it in park, foot on brake, and it would not even turn over, just a dead key.
So, turned the key off, removed key, opened door, and re-attempted to start. Engine started at this point.
Needless to say, I'm a little unnerved at a brand new $30K vehicle doing this at only 6K miles. Dealership can't get it in until next Thursday.
Also, I noticed that my fuel pump will randomly continue to run after shutting the vehicle off for about 5 seconds. Fuel pump is extremely loud and after shutting off the vehicle the pump sounds like this (make a fuel pump noise outloud and read) - "weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee wee wee weeeeeeeeeee" and then shuts off. I've owned a slew of vehicles (5 other diesel trucks included) and not a one of them has done this.
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I have an 05 escape xls 4cyl that has started acting up in the past 2 weeks. The vehicle has 52k on the clock and has no other issues but what im posting about.
Heres the problem: Vehicle starts fine every time you turn the key. It does not stall or idle rough when engaging the trans mission so I've concluded it has nothing to do with the torque converter. Once the car is running the vehicle will shut off randomly with the THEFT light coming on. I played with it for about 2 hours and have found that it will do this idling in Park, while in Reverse, and while in drive. The vehicle also will shut off while I am going down the road and every time it does the THEFT light is coming on as the problem starts. It does appear that it only happens when the accelerator is not depressed and will sometimes stay running if you hit the Gas Pedal as soon as it starts to happen.
I have tried using another key figuring maybe a transponder is bad...No dice does the exact same thing. I have also noted that i do hear single quiet (tock) when the vehicle shuts off coming from the drivers side lower engine compartment.
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Bought 2009 santa fe new [3.3]. after cold start up tac is moving up and down and it seems to be missing. After temp is reached tac is steady but there still seem to be a hesitation when driving. 21,000 miles on vehicle. could it be a bad tbs?
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I have a '93 Suburban, Its actually in great shape, except that the fan made some loud whining noises for about 45 minutes and doesnt work at all now. I have heat, but only when Im driving on the highway and only when the heat is actually turned to the "off" postion on the switch and I dont even have heat when slowly driving around town. The rear fan works, but blows cold too. Im not sure that even gets hot when Im moving, as I feel a cold breeze on my neck when I turn on the fan when Im driving. I dont think the ac works at all...just bought this truck, so havent tried it, and its cold out anyway, so I'll have to wait I suppose.
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VW Passat b5 1.9 TDi AVF engine ... When I start my car in cold the idle keep moving from 800 to 1100 rpm. and sometimes when i start the engine in hot it revs till 2000 rpm. I never scanned with vag com? I think G62 sensor problem???
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This one comes just in time when the cold and bad weather has started! My car is exhibiting certain symptoms and I am trying to figure out whether this is an issue with physical duct and air passageway components, the computer or something else....
When I turn on climate control, the car will blow air temp according to the one inputted only when I am driving, as soon as I come to a standstill, no matter what temp i input in the CC on the center console, the air will be freezing cold.
Now I don't know if its the computer sending improper signals to the duct system, a bad sensor or some problem with the duct passageway system.
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