Mini - Cooper :: Stiff Shifting / Takes A Lot Of Effort To Shift To 2nd, 3rd, And 4th
Apr 16, 2013
2006 mini cooper, 5 speed manual113 thousand miles. got it in 20102 previous owners, never had any previous troubles, learned how to drive stick with the car..
Stiff shifting, takes a lot of effort to shift to second, 3rd, and fourth, and it's very difficult to shift 5th and reverse.--most difficult to shift diagonally--2nd to 3rd, 4th to 5th, 1st to reverse. --whole neutral area very stiffen, once in gear, runs just as smooth as it's always run. No noise when shifting.
Has been going on for a couple of months, turning point around when I had an inexperienced manual driver drive the car--they shifted in a very jerky way. Also, hard winter up in maine, but I was always quick to shovel out the car. The manual couldn't tell us how to check the transmission fluid.
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My 2002 mini 6-speed stick licks to get stuck in the I park it in when its cold. After driving in that gear for 4 minutes it warms up and let's loose.
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The clutch went out and the repair people tell me to replace the master cylinder, the slave cylinder and other related components to the tune.
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In the past month or so I've noticed some weird behavior out of my car. 2006 Mini Cooper 130K miles on it (still going strong!!) Automatic.
Scenario 1 - Driving in D accelerating at a normal pace (read, not gunning it) the RPM's spike rapidly from 3K to 4K and the car almost sounds like it's redlining. Once it hits 59-60 MPH it drops back down to 3K RPM and the rest of the acceleration is normal.
Scenario 2 - Cruising on the highway at about 70+. Normally start taking the foot off the gas to slow down with traffic and when my speed drops to about 60 MPH the RPMs spike again from around 3K to about 4K. When the car gets below 60 MPH the RPMs drop again. If i let the car come to a stop the RPMs decrease normally without any other spikes.
Scenario 3 - Driving in sport mode (yeah buddy) around 20-30MPH it almost feels like the car is not upshifting and the rpms go crazy. jump from 2500 to about 4-4500 and finally the car lurks forward.
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How to repair a 2009 mini cooper that started misfiring? What is the most common cause for misfiring?
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My 2002 Mini Cooper has been a faithful trooper since we bought it in 2002. It has carried me around at track days embarrassing faster cars at the track (pretty much anything else that shows up at a track day) due to its handling, picked up the groceries, and ferried the kids to countless activities in the last 12 years. It has just about 90K miles. Since this spring it has been giving the impression that is overheating after running for as little as 15 minutes. We've changed the thermostat, radiator and had the head off to replace the gasket and check it for warping.
We've also bled the system thinking it could be air trapped somewhere. My mechanic says that it isn't actually overheating - there is no fluid boil and it isn't using any coolant up. There are no leaks. He thinks it could be a bad gauge. I called MiniMania and they agreed that it is not overheating really and suggested that it is an electrical issue. They doubted it is the gauge and suggested running the engine at idle with the radiator cap off so I could check the temperature of the coolant with a thermometer as the temperature gauge did its thing moving into the red.
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We have a 2006 Mini Cooper Cabrio with 55K miles. The car is a lot of fun, but lately I've run into a problem: when starting movement and engaging first gear, as I release the clutch and engage the engine - the car/engine shakes briefly. Sometimes just a little bit, sometimes quite severely, but always noticeable and resonating through the car. This happens when you apply very little gas (less noticeably) and when you give considerably more gas (shakes a lot more and when it engages - gives an abrupt kick).
This also happens in the second gear, but not to the same degree. Today this happened every time i've shifted into first or second and i'm getting worried that we are in for some expensive repair on a fairly low mileage car.
I'm not new to manual transmission and have learned to drive on a car with a stick. I've been behind the wheel for 20 years with driving manual on and off for at least half the time.
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I just bought a 2005 Mini Cooper with the SES light on. Error message said misfired piston, so got a tune up and an ignition coil. Went off for about a day and back on. Put fuel injector cleaner in. Went off for a day and back on. What to do? In this for several hundred bucks thus far.
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I have 26,000 miles on my 2006 Mini convertible manual transmission. It started making noise while in gear. Took in to my mechanic and he says there is metal in the transmission fluid and that the metal around the ball bearings has failed and that, if he can't repair it, I'll need a new transmission for about 6500.00 Is this a common problem and do I have any recourse with Mini? I am the original owner of the car, but, of course, it's no longer in warranty.
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Why does the ac smell like dirty feet when I first turn it on?
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I'm in the process of buying a used 2008 Mini Cooper S with 44000 miles in good conditions but I wanted to get an opinion regarding a rear bumper crack. Please take a look at the attached photo and tell me what you think, not sure how serious it is or how much it will cost me to fix so I can negotiate the price.
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My 2005 Mini Cooper, manual transmission, has 82K miles. About a month ago, I noticed a loud sound coming from the engine when at speeds above 60mph. Over the next few weeks, the noise started happening at lower speeds as well, 30mph and up. Took it to the dealership and was informed that I needed a new transmission, which came as a great shock to me. Quote to replace is $3,600.
I took it to a transmission specialist for a second opinion. He determined that it likely was the differential causing the issue but that this couldn't be purchased alone as Mini will only sell the entire transmission, not specific parts for it.
Along with the transmission, the dealership also said that I have three oil leaks, need the water pump replaced, air conditioner recharged, control arm bushings and rear breaks replaced. Plus some misc work adding up to $6,500, which includes the new transmission.
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I am considering buying a 2011 Mini Cooper. One of the issues I'm wondering about is that I have been told that the Oil Change Warning Light has to be re-set by a dealership. I don't need the light because I always change oil at 3 K regardless of what thing says, but I don't want to have to pay the dealer to re-set an annoying light. Right now I'm driving an '06 Civic and I can reset that myself (it's not a light, just shows percentage of usage).
The other issue, b/t/w is what to do about a spare tire since I don't plan to pay for new run-flats.
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Just within the last 1000 miles my MINI has been randomly grinding into second gear (6 Speed Getrag Manual for the Cooper S) when turning right. It is a little notchy when traveling straight and beautifully smooth when turning left. When pulling out of my garage the other morning I went into second but purposely pulled the gear stick towards the right side of the gate and it did the same grinding thing that it does when going around right hand turns. It seems as though something is out of alignment? It feels like the shift linkage is not properly placing the internals of the transmission. It happens mostly when cold and once warm the random harsh grinding stops and it goes to simply really notchy.
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I have a 2003 Mini Cooper, and I'm having issues with the cabin blower fan. When it is cold outside, the fan works, but when it is hot outside, the fan doesn't work. It turns out, if I reach into the cabin airbox and give it a boost, it will start spinning again.
My guess is that the grease is old and junked up in there, and so when it is hot, it gets sticky and seizes up the motor. The main problem is on this year, the interior blower motor is only removable by taking the dash off and it is a big pain.
I want to ask if there are any recommended sprays or cleaners I can use on it without having to remove the dash. From the cabin filter airbox I can reach right into the fan's axle.
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OK, so my "Service Engine Soon" light came on recently. I tried the gas cap tightening suggestion. It turned off. A few miles down the road it came on again. I had a recall/service schedule (2005 model) so waited until I took it in, however the light turned off (again) before I went in. They did a whole service and (I believe) diagnostic and nothing came up. That was about a month ago and suddenly the morning the light came on again. I have some repairs/maintenance scheduled for end of July (gasket value leak and the right side the axles). The car is driving fine, no difference in feel/sounds.
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Minis are renowned for oil burning. They're replacing engine due to excessive oil burning. Are O2 sensors and Catalytic converters also effected, and should they replace them as well?
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I have a 2 door 2009 Mini Cooper that has a weird intermittent problem. When I am idling -- like at a stoplight -- I hear a slight bump underneath the car. The sound is as if a mechanic has rolled under the car and sits up, banging his head on the undercarriage... every ten seconds... exactly. THE WEIRD THING, though, is that after I turn the car completely off, it will continue for roughly a minute and then finish off with 3 bumps. ba-dump-bump It's all very soft but quite distinct.
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2007 Mini Cooper (Not the S model) burning coolant. Have brought to two mechanics and no visible external leaks. Both did a pressure test and was fine. They think the head gasket is blown. Car is operating normal.
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I purchased a certified automatic 2013 Mini Cooper a week ago. After a total of 254 miles driven off the lot, the accelerator quit responding in the middle of an intersection. I was attempting to make a left turn. Only the accelerator quit functioning, everything else seemed ok. The engine didn't even rev when the pedal was pushed to the floor. I was pushed out of the intersection and shut off the car. When I restarted it the gas pedal was operational. No codes presented, and the dealership couldn't detect codes on their equipment. They sent the info to the MINI technical department (their engineering team) who said it was a software issue. The service rep who passed this on to me said that the Techs data showed there was an "error" which caused the failure, they could verify that using the data, and that a software update would be done to correct the problem. However, the MINI service department will only document on the paperwork that an update was done, they will not document the error in writing. Seem weird? I have serious doubts about this car in our brief history together.
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I have a Mini Cooper 2005. Last month the battery died. The warning sign was that when I turned the key, there was a second or two pause where everything went dead. No lights at all in cabin and clock reset. Then it started up. It did that many times before the battery went dead. I got it charged and thought all was well but now the mini did the pause thing again and I fear that I am going to deal with a dead battery again.
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