Mini - Cooper :: 2007 - Rattling Noise At Cold Startup
Mar 22, 2012
I bought a 2007 Mini Cooper, used, at a Ford dealership in August of 2010. For nearly two years I loved this car and didn't have to pay much in the way of maintenance. I bought the car at 55k miles, and now it has 92k. Over the past year, I have noticed a rattling noise at cold startup, and it was especially loud in the winter, and I also noticed that the car consumes oil. As the oil got lower, the rattling got worse, and whenever I topped off the oil the rattling stopped. I brought this up at the MINI dealership (where I get all my repairs on the car) during a routine oil change and they didn't take it seriously.
Well, Tuesday morning on my way to work, there was a sudden loss of power and the engine started missing bad. I was almost to where I work when the car just couldn't hold and idle and stalled. It wouldn't turn over after that and it sounded really "sick". I had the car towed to the dealer, where they told me the timing belt tensioner failed and it allowed the timing belt to jump "a great distance". Apparently, these are "interference" engines (a term I learned because of this incident) so the screwed up timing destroyed the engine. The dealer said it will cost 8,000 to completely replace the engine.
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I have 26,000 miles on my 2006 Mini convertible manual transmission. It started making noise while in gear. Took in to my mechanic and he says there is metal in the transmission fluid and that the metal around the ball bearings has failed and that, if he can't repair it, I'll need a new transmission for about 6500.00 Is this a common problem and do I have any recourse with Mini? I am the original owner of the car, but, of course, it's no longer in warranty.
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I took my car in for an oil change and they said I should get the fuel injector and upper intake manifold and valve cleaning treatment. When I picked up the car I noticed a rattle or low pitched ticking sound coming from under the hood. The car has an automatic transmission and the noise frequency increases and decreases with the rpm's. It only happens with the car in "drive". For the seasoned followers, it sounds like the sound we got from fastening baseball cards onto our bike frames to make noise as the wheels turned - just describing the sound. When I took it back to the Mini dealership in Phoenix (who shall remain anonymous), they said I needed a new transmission.
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A couple of months back my driver side window began to make this terrible squeaking noise when rolled up and down. I noticed that the noise is not as bad when it is cooler out and when I run my car through the wash with wax (just an option they have at the carwash place).After some internet research I believe that the problem is with a part of window regulator mechanism.
There were a couple of options available to me:1. Replace window regulator mechanism (great instructions on pelicanparts.com). To do it on my own is about $80 (part cost) and 5-6 hours of work or $600 at the dealer's. 2. Locate the motor of window regulator, open it and clean it. Probably 5-6 hours of work, but $0!!!3. Open the door, clean inside and grease the tracks.
I opened the door and cleaned the glass and tracks – no result! I brought it back to the dealer (car is not under warranty anymore) and they were nice enough to open it again for me and grease the tracks – no result except for marks on my window and the verdict that I need to replace the regulator mechanism….
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so with the weather turning cooler i have noticed a new noise. i am at 34,000 miles and run synthetic oil ever 4-5k miles.
I hear a rattling/knocking noise when you start engine, not right away, but like after 15 seconds and it lasts about 30 seconds then seems to go away and is quiet again.
Almost sounds like a lifter is tapping due to not getting oil.
I changed the accessory belts a while ago and it did not first make this noise right after but maybe a few days after which coincided going from 80 degree weather down to 40 degree weather.
Could it be an accessory belt being too tight? If so, why wouldn't it make it on startup? I can see it going away as rubber expands as the warms but I would expect it to make the noise from starting till then. Not 15 seconds into running.
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The clutch went out and the repair people tell me to replace the master cylinder, the slave cylinder and other related components to the tune.
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In the past month or so I've noticed some weird behavior out of my car. 2006 Mini Cooper 130K miles on it (still going strong!!) Automatic.
Scenario 1 - Driving in D accelerating at a normal pace (read, not gunning it) the RPM's spike rapidly from 3K to 4K and the car almost sounds like it's redlining. Once it hits 59-60 MPH it drops back down to 3K RPM and the rest of the acceleration is normal.
Scenario 2 - Cruising on the highway at about 70+. Normally start taking the foot off the gas to slow down with traffic and when my speed drops to about 60 MPH the RPMs spike again from around 3K to about 4K. When the car gets below 60 MPH the RPMs drop again. If i let the car come to a stop the RPMs decrease normally without any other spikes.
Scenario 3 - Driving in sport mode (yeah buddy) around 20-30MPH it almost feels like the car is not upshifting and the rpms go crazy. jump from 2500 to about 4-4500 and finally the car lurks forward.
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How to repair a 2009 mini cooper that started misfiring? What is the most common cause for misfiring?
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My 2002 Mini Cooper has been a faithful trooper since we bought it in 2002. It has carried me around at track days embarrassing faster cars at the track (pretty much anything else that shows up at a track day) due to its handling, picked up the groceries, and ferried the kids to countless activities in the last 12 years. It has just about 90K miles. Since this spring it has been giving the impression that is overheating after running for as little as 15 minutes. We've changed the thermostat, radiator and had the head off to replace the gasket and check it for warping.
We've also bled the system thinking it could be air trapped somewhere. My mechanic says that it isn't actually overheating - there is no fluid boil and it isn't using any coolant up. There are no leaks. He thinks it could be a bad gauge. I called MiniMania and they agreed that it is not overheating really and suggested that it is an electrical issue. They doubted it is the gauge and suggested running the engine at idle with the radiator cap off so I could check the temperature of the coolant with a thermometer as the temperature gauge did its thing moving into the red.
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We have a 2006 Mini Cooper Cabrio with 55K miles. The car is a lot of fun, but lately I've run into a problem: when starting movement and engaging first gear, as I release the clutch and engage the engine - the car/engine shakes briefly. Sometimes just a little bit, sometimes quite severely, but always noticeable and resonating through the car. This happens when you apply very little gas (less noticeably) and when you give considerably more gas (shakes a lot more and when it engages - gives an abrupt kick).
This also happens in the second gear, but not to the same degree. Today this happened every time i've shifted into first or second and i'm getting worried that we are in for some expensive repair on a fairly low mileage car.
I'm not new to manual transmission and have learned to drive on a car with a stick. I've been behind the wheel for 20 years with driving manual on and off for at least half the time.
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I just bought a 2005 Mini Cooper with the SES light on. Error message said misfired piston, so got a tune up and an ignition coil. Went off for about a day and back on. Put fuel injector cleaner in. Went off for a day and back on. What to do? In this for several hundred bucks thus far.
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Why does the ac smell like dirty feet when I first turn it on?
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I'm in the process of buying a used 2008 Mini Cooper S with 44000 miles in good conditions but I wanted to get an opinion regarding a rear bumper crack. Please take a look at the attached photo and tell me what you think, not sure how serious it is or how much it will cost me to fix so I can negotiate the price.
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My 2005 Mini Cooper, manual transmission, has 82K miles. About a month ago, I noticed a loud sound coming from the engine when at speeds above 60mph. Over the next few weeks, the noise started happening at lower speeds as well, 30mph and up. Took it to the dealership and was informed that I needed a new transmission, which came as a great shock to me. Quote to replace is $3,600.
I took it to a transmission specialist for a second opinion. He determined that it likely was the differential causing the issue but that this couldn't be purchased alone as Mini will only sell the entire transmission, not specific parts for it.
Along with the transmission, the dealership also said that I have three oil leaks, need the water pump replaced, air conditioner recharged, control arm bushings and rear breaks replaced. Plus some misc work adding up to $6,500, which includes the new transmission.
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I am considering buying a 2011 Mini Cooper. One of the issues I'm wondering about is that I have been told that the Oil Change Warning Light has to be re-set by a dealership. I don't need the light because I always change oil at 3 K regardless of what thing says, but I don't want to have to pay the dealer to re-set an annoying light. Right now I'm driving an '06 Civic and I can reset that myself (it's not a light, just shows percentage of usage).
The other issue, b/t/w is what to do about a spare tire since I don't plan to pay for new run-flats.
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Just within the last 1000 miles my MINI has been randomly grinding into second gear (6 Speed Getrag Manual for the Cooper S) when turning right. It is a little notchy when traveling straight and beautifully smooth when turning left. When pulling out of my garage the other morning I went into second but purposely pulled the gear stick towards the right side of the gate and it did the same grinding thing that it does when going around right hand turns. It seems as though something is out of alignment? It feels like the shift linkage is not properly placing the internals of the transmission. It happens mostly when cold and once warm the random harsh grinding stops and it goes to simply really notchy.
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I have a 2003 Mini Cooper, and I'm having issues with the cabin blower fan. When it is cold outside, the fan works, but when it is hot outside, the fan doesn't work. It turns out, if I reach into the cabin airbox and give it a boost, it will start spinning again.
My guess is that the grease is old and junked up in there, and so when it is hot, it gets sticky and seizes up the motor. The main problem is on this year, the interior blower motor is only removable by taking the dash off and it is a big pain.
I want to ask if there are any recommended sprays or cleaners I can use on it without having to remove the dash. From the cabin filter airbox I can reach right into the fan's axle.
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My 2002 mini 6-speed stick licks to get stuck in the I park it in when its cold. After driving in that gear for 4 minutes it warms up and let's loose.
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OK, so my "Service Engine Soon" light came on recently. I tried the gas cap tightening suggestion. It turned off. A few miles down the road it came on again. I had a recall/service schedule (2005 model) so waited until I took it in, however the light turned off (again) before I went in. They did a whole service and (I believe) diagnostic and nothing came up. That was about a month ago and suddenly the morning the light came on again. I have some repairs/maintenance scheduled for end of July (gasket value leak and the right side the axles). The car is driving fine, no difference in feel/sounds.
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Minis are renowned for oil burning. They're replacing engine due to excessive oil burning. Are O2 sensors and Catalytic converters also effected, and should they replace them as well?
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I have a 2 door 2009 Mini Cooper that has a weird intermittent problem. When I am idling -- like at a stoplight -- I hear a slight bump underneath the car. The sound is as if a mechanic has rolled under the car and sits up, banging his head on the undercarriage... every ten seconds... exactly. THE WEIRD THING, though, is that after I turn the car completely off, it will continue for roughly a minute and then finish off with 3 bumps. ba-dump-bump It's all very soft but quite distinct.
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