My 2005 5 speed Miata stalls immediately whenever I hit a large bump. It starts immediately when I push in the clutch and turn the key. I barely slow down. Why does it stall?
View 1 RepliesMy wife and I bought a 2014 Elantra with 30,000 miles on it. This is our first Hyundai and the car runs great, but the only issue I have is that whenever I go over a large bump in the road, the front suspension clunks and feels like it's coming apart. Smaller bumps or imperfections in the road are okay and the car runs smoothly over those, but the larger bumps and potholes produce an unreassuring clunk.
We've never owned a Hyundai before and we really like the car, but I was wondering if this is normal for the Elantra and if others experience this. I brought the car to the dealer and they checked everything out. They said all was fine and that it was normal. Is it?
My Miata stalls out on the highway but not on residential streets. If I open the gas tank ,it starts up again. This has happened with a full tank, 1/2 tank and 1/4 tank. How can I fix this?
View 9 RepliesI am a recent new owner of an 06 f350 Powerstroke. Steering Box developed a leak so I decided to replace the box and go ahead and do the pump and hoses while at it. Pump would make some noise so i figured I'd just do it all and be done with it or so I thought. The job was a pain, much harder than the pump and boxes i've done on the older 7.3 powerstroke.
Anyways, used all OEM components (pump was a rebuilt rotorcraft, can't buy new anymore) and everything seemed great for about a day. I tried to bleed the air out per standard practice of turning the wheels with the truck off the ground. At startup and during the first day it had almost no noise at all and the steering felt much easier than the old pump.
Then the pump started to develop the standard annoying ford power steering whine that I hear all the time. Drove it over the weekend on a 160 mile trip and the noise just kept getting worse. As of tonight I can't turn the wheel if the truck is stopped even with my foot off the brakes.
I used synthetic ATF for fluid and there is absolutely no foam or aeration in the reservoir. Good news is I don't have any leaks but the bad is I now don't have power steering. It does make a much louder whine or squeak when I hit a large bump turning, I guess that's just the sound of the pump being stressed more. I am guessing the pump just crapped out but before I do it all over again.
I've had this intermittent issue for a while where the car won't start properly. What seems to happen to me is that it starts properly, but then immediately stalls. Normally during a start it will start at about 1200rpm then quickly idle back to under 1000 and then slowly reduce some more. Now at about the same time as I would expect it to idle back to 1000rpm it stalls. After this happens, it seems like I can keep reproducing the failed start over and over again if I try to start the car again. If I wait 30 seconds or so and then try to start it, it usually works.
On two or three occasions I got a warning on the dash about faulty steering lock. Checking in VAG the only errors shown are related to those, no other codes. This has happened many times over the course of perhaps two months. It's been colder during this period, but generally it seems the error happens more often when its a little warmer weather and not really cold. Lately I've been inserting the key part way, waiting a few instants for things to initialize and then starting and it seems to work every time.
I have an issue of fuel pressure I believe on my 2003 3.5 Santa fe...It would start then stall...I'm at my wits end with this thing...I checked the relay and its good...checked all fuses and they are good...I don't hear the 2-3 second whine of the pump when I turn the ignition to the on position, so I suspected a bad pump...but before I bought a new pump I took out the back seat, removed the access cover and checked the connector to see if the pump is getting power...its not...I'm at a loss as to where to look next...
View 35 Repliesmy daughter has a 91 volvo 240 with a 4cyl and auto. roughly 100000 miles. it starts and runs fine but after driving it, if it is shut off for less than 30 min, then she tries to start it again, it stalls immediately. she can keep her foot on the gas slightly and drive it the distance of a parking lot, the car will run fine and not stall. i was curious if a tune up would fix this or if there is a smaller fix such as a sensor.
View 1 RepliesI have an 02' Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 (not flex fuel) .I have replaced the battery, alternator, sparkplugs/wires, fuel pump, fuel filter. All over time and now when i try to start the van it turns over strong sometimes starting then stalls out immediately. When I try to crank it sounds like metal on metal. Check engine light stays on,but i dont have an OBD reader.
View 7 Replies1999 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder 126k milesWhen my car runs, it works very well. Sometimes, though, it stalls - just shuts off. When I try to restart it, it turns over, but immediately stops, almost as if it gets no gas. I keep trying, and eventually it starts, but it can take more than 30 tries. It has happened when the car is cold and when it is fully warmed up. It has happened while traveling at 10 MPH and while going 75 on the Mass Pike. It's happened in warm weather and cold, while the sun shone and during rain storms. The car might run perfectly for 3 days, but then stall 4 times on my way home from work. This has been going on for more than a year, but has become much more frequent in the last couple of months.
View 3 RepliesIf I don't keep in the throttle immediately after start up it will stall a lot of the time. It doesn't do this every time or if it sits for a while but if I drive it and then stop off at a store or something and then go to start it back up it gives me this problem. I notice it idles about 3-4k RPM's when I stop at a light or something too.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 Subaru Forester with about 124,000 miles. I've had her since 2012. This year has been rough for her and every month or so there seems to be something that I need to fix.
This time, the check engine light is on, and the cruise light is flashing. Two codes came up:P0442 - Small Evap LeakP0457 - Large Evap Leak
I brought it to a local auto service shop, and they replaced the gas cap, and also cleaned the filler neck with several grits of emery cloth. They cleared the codes, and told me to drive it for a few days.
Well the check engine light came on again the other day.
I'm having an issue with the truck not staying idle after cold start up. The truck will turn over and start right away (not even 2 second crank) but immediately dies. The throttle will not work at low RPM. When I start the truck, it will instantly rev high, the revs will drop low, it will try to compensate and rev high again, then it will immediately die.
If the RPMs are under under 2.5k, the truck will immediately stall and die. When I attempt to use the throttle under that RPM, it will not work. No matter how much I depress it, the engine will instantly cut and stall out. It will not attempt to deliver fuel. The only way I can get the truck started is if I rev the engine high and hold it. I need to hold the truck at 2.5k+ RPM for atleast 30 seconds. It generally takes me about 5 tries to finally get it running (mainly due to the throttle immediately cutting out and I have to 'catch' and hold it.) After that, there is no sign or issue. The truck will start immediately back up after it's been running for a couple minutes.
CEL: MAP sensor (0069?) -- Sensor is spotless. Harness looks fine. I replaced the injectors, both batteries, and the alternator this summer. It doesn't sound to be any these either as the truck sounds extremely healthy and immediately turns over.
i was driving home and i heard a loud bang, next thing i noticed was the window fell all the way down and wont come back up. I hear a slight clicking sound when i press the window button, but nothing happens...maybe a broken regulater???? how much do these cost? can i fix it on my own?
View 14 RepliesMy steering wheel on my 2012 Avalon Limited began shaking above 65 mph immediately after the tires were rotated for the first time. The balance was checked, and two new tires were installed. That did not fix the problem. The car also seems to pull to the right. Wondering if the problem are the tires, or an alignment issue.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Avalon and really enjoy the car. The only fault I can find is the weird shifting. It seems like every time that I apply the brakes, the car will downshift immediately and the whole car will jerk left/right due to the sudden downshift. Sometimes it will shift back up and cause the car to jerk a little but will be smooth after. Some times I apply the brakes and it does nothing.
I also get the occasional hard shift but the bigger issue here is the downshift while braking. It kind of ruins the driving experience on an otherwise great car as one tends to use the brakes often. It's especially annoying while going down a hill and applying the brakes. I have watched the tachometer before and noticed it jumps up to 3k or so from a normal 1500 or so RPM's. It may not be downshifting per say, but it's definitely doing something.
I have a Hyundai Tuscon 2005 with 140K automatic transmission. Original Owner and has treated me well. Current issue is the transmission will not engage in reverse or park immediately when shifted most notably first thing in the morning or in the late evening after sitting for a while. It acts as if it is in neutral until it engages after revving the engine for a while. Once it engages, it is a little sporadic for a few minutes and then all is fine for the rest of the day no matter how many times I start, stop or turn the car on or off.
Runs like a champ until the next morning and it starts all over again. A couple of times the check engine light has come on and I can tell that the transmission is stuck in 3rd gear. I can't manually get it to go up to 4th or down to 1 or 2. I can clear the code and then all is back to normal again with normal shifting again available. Short of a transmission rebuild (whihe probably won't happen) could it be electronic in nature since it comes and goes?
We have a 2007 Avalon XL with 65K miles that we bought 2 years ago from my parents with 40K miles. Last summer at about 50k miles it developed a clunking noise in the left front when you hit a bump. An independent Toyota mechanic diagnosed it as a bad upper front strut mount and he wanted to change the struts along with the mounts. We didn't have the money so we waited.
When I put the snow tires on in the fall, the noise went away. All I did was install a winter set of wheel/tires and I also turned the wheel/tire left-to-right to see if I could find anything loose but I didn't.
The noise came back about a month ago so when I had the snow tires rotated I asked our tire mechanic to check it out. He said he couldn't find anything definite but thought it was the sway bar links. We didn't have him change them because he wasn't sure.
Now the noise is gone again and we have just put new tires on it. I want to have an alignment because the previous set of tires wore more on the inside but am afraid to have it aligned if we need to replace some parts first. What could be causing this intermittent left front clunking noise?
I have a 2005 camry, 25k miles on it. I notice that when I go over a bump road or potholes and try to break at the same time, the brake would rattle and it's like it get stuck. The brake pedal would respond the same way, I would press down on it but it will resist my foot pushing down on it. I could still brake but it's not as responsive. Also lately, 3 times in the last 2 months my car won;t start on the first try.
View 2 RepliesI had something happened the other day that I have never experienced in any of my Prius' before, I was driving along coming up to a stop lite and the lite changed I tried to make a quick stop and stomped on the brake pedal and pedal got real hard and no stopping! car did not even slow down, luckily no cars where sitting at lite.
View 12 RepliesHow to fix rear air suspension from dropping down to bump stops ...if I reset it every night it is fine but if not it will be down on bump stops by morning.
View 3 RepliesMy left rear suspension will leak down to bump stops unless I turn off auto suspension leveler. I can set suspension at high level turn off and it will stay that way i had set that way for 2 weeks and no leak but if I turn on leveler it may stay or it may leak down usually just left side somebody had said that my air bags were leaking so I tested it out all last month and find it hard to believe the bags are leaking if it will stay inflated a week or 2.
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