Metro :: Tranny Will Not Shift In To 3rd Or 5th Gear With E-Brake
Jan 9, 2011
I bought 95 metro 3 cyc. 5 sd. bad tranny. The clutch is shot spins when put in 4th w e-brake on the tranny will not shift in to 3rd or 5th gear. Seller also gave me a different tranny says 2nd is shot and also a rebuild kit ( bearings,seals,secniorz) same as the one in the photo from dr bills tranny rebuild. What are my options for the tranny not going in to gear and what the easy way I should go.
I've never rebuild a tranny but I've done just a bout everything else to a car u can think of from rebuild motors to brakes and bodywork. Mainly want to no what the problem is with it not going in to gear. I know I will have to split case to find out for sure and I am going to start with the one that not in car. That supposedly 2nd don't work.
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Well, it looks like I have an interesting issue. My car is an automatic and it starts in second gear, a lot. It seems to do it more, when it's warmer, so would that most likely be a faulty valve body.
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1993 Geo Prizm with some odd 275,000 miles on it. Was at a stop sign, in first gear, and gave the car some gas. Very quickly it jumped out of first gear and stopped moving abruptly. Tried to get it back in first gear and it just stayed in neutral. Had to push it to the side of the road. Tried putting it in any gear and it wouldn't go. Then tried to have the car running in neutral and let up on the clutch and as soon as I started letting up on the clutch, something (like metal) started grinding. Pushing the clutch it (in neutral) stops the grinding. So, do I need a new clutch? New transmission?
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Okay so I bought this car and a week later tranny wouldn't shift out of first when I would slow down or at least it would take a min. I would hit 4or 5 grand then it would jolt me back. It wouldn't do it every time though. I bought it to go to college drove it the 900 miles on the highway and had no problems except right before I left town but then fine. All I did was change the tranny fluid before I left which I can confidently say I don't think has been changed before that. stunk bad bud no metal.
Alright now I'll go jump in the car to go to class and it will not leave first. If I put it in the manual mode it thinks it's in third but clearly if in doing 15 mph at 4000 rpm that's not the case. It doesn't do it every time. Kinda hit or miss. After driving for a min it usually shifts. Sometimes I make it the two miles without it shifting though. Also sometimes It will shift but once I slow down it won't shift out of first again.
I have seen a code for torque management since I bought the car. The check engine light is on now but I haven't seen the torque code since I change the MassES. that's not to say it's not still there. I used a different handheld computer for the check engine light the last time I did it and I could have missed it because I was unfamiliar with it. I have put a mass airflow sensor, battery, alternator, and changed the tranny fluid since I have owned the car. drained 3L of tranny fluid and put 3L back in. Oh and the last time I checked the light it said lean in bank 1 but I was assuming that was an unrelated issue.
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98 Gmc Jimmy 4.3L engine 4X4, they told me when the Abs light would come on will driving the tranny would not shift past 2nd gear, so after a month of not driving it, I took it for a drive Abs light was out vehicle drove fine shifted good even took it on the highway still ran good, two weeks later problem is back Abs light comes on after driving for a few minutes and the tranny goes into limp mode can't shift past 2nd gear plus the speedometer was not working, could it be speed sensor on the tranny causing the Abs light and the tranny from working wright.
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My 6'4" hubby just got in my PriusV 2012 to use it and when he tried to shift into reverse, the parking brake was on and the anti skid icon lit up. It would not shift into drive. When I got in to see what was going on, after he turned it off, everything worked fine for me. It has never done this before but he rarely drives it. Is it possible he was mashing the regular brake pedal down too hard? He wasn't hitting the parking brake getting in or anything like that, I watched when he tried a second time.
We kept trying but he ended up taking his truck instead (which I was washing for him) I know on a couple occasions making fast, hard turns into our driveway I have lit up the anti skid icon but other than some extra braking action it has not caused a problem. And once while stopped at a light and reaching for something in the back seat, I lit it up, but I forget what the car did. I was mashing the pedal down hard as I reached back. I assume in both cases the car thinks I am getting in a wreck and is taking action.
Of course, I just finished washing it but there is no chance it's anything with that? I moved it from the front yard to the back and had no issues before he tried to use it. Anyway, I had this thought about pressing the pedal too hard after he left and here I am asking.
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Long story, but I bought a 2007 Prius with 73K miles on it. Now I'm at 93K miles, and I think it may be more jerky than when I got it when I shift the tranny into "brake" mode.
I don't know if the fluid has ever been changed on it, and I intend to change it very soon now. Am I in a pickle? Or should this transmission be fine if the fluid hasn't been changed for 93K miles?
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I have a 1990 Pontiac firefly with a 3 cyl automatic. It will not go into reverse and will shift 1st to 3rd when the car is cold. once it is warm it shifts fine. it is puzzling. When it is warm shifts are crisp solid. I am thinking it is not worn disks or band. I would like to get this fixed before winter sets in. I have a little more info now. If I shift into low it will shift into second, So I now have all three gears but still no reverse until it warms up. I don't seem to be getting any takers, and this is so odd.
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I have a 1994 Geo Metro that I picked up a little over a year ago. I had to swap engines and replaced the clutch at the same time. This included a turned flywheel and new pressure plate. I also replaced all seals and gaskets except for the distributor O-ring and the head gasket. This included the crank and cam seals on the front and rear of the engine as well as the seal housing gaskets/oil pump gasket. I drove it for several months and then the distributor O-ring began to leak oil profusely which is a common problem with these cars. The distributor is keyed directly into the camshaft on the rear side of the engine so it sits sideways directly above the transmission/engine interface. Some of the leaking oil went right down into the clutch area. Being that adding a cup of synthetic oil every day was still cheaper than driving one of my pickups, I just kept driving the car until the new O-ring arrived and added oil. Once the O-ring was replaced, the oil leak stopped.
I had a couple episodes of clutch slipping not long after the leak was fixed and then everything seemed fine. I figured that some oil got down there and wore off after the clutch stopped slipping. The car drove fine for about a year until I began noticing the clutch slipping under load in 4th and 5th gear. I had some suspicions of this for a week or so before it became more obvious that the clutch was most definitely slipping. I have a new clutch kit and a spare flywheel that I plan to have machined in the next few days. I have been driving it a couple weeks around town and just babying it so the clutch won't slip.
I was also told by some that I should intentionally burn the clutch some to remove any glaze build up on the clutch disc or flywheel/pressure plate surfaces. They told me to put the parking brake on or put the front bumper up against a tree and burn the clutch. I originally figured this was a bad idea but decided to try it yesterday, figuring I had little to lose. I did it just until I began to see smoke and smell it and then stopped. I let everything cool off for an hour and then took the car for a drive. The clutch was no longer slipping at all so I am wondering if this fixed the problem for now or simply delayed the issue for a short while. I am sure I took some life off the clutch by doing this but....
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Really enjoying my first Lexus RX350, but there seem to be some noise issues...
1. When shifting the gear, especially in the morning, from P to R, it is not smooth making some annoying noise. Is this normal?
2. Also, when releasing the break, there is some sort of a "thump" noise.
Don't think it is a big deal, but just wondering if these are considered normal.
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I have been having a problem with my brake light warning on my dashboard as my car accelerates and shifts gears. Coincidently the problem began after carting around a co-worker that weighed some 250 pounds in my 2000 Honda Civic. I'm wondering if I have an alignment problem or something more serious.
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I bought a 95 geo metro it ran for a few days then stop running. i have replaced about everything, new plugs, spark plug wires, sensors carborator etc. it seems like maybe it could be the timing but timing seems on. it wont turn over.
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Ok my brother has a 99 passat he just put a new clutch in a few weeks ago and it still wont shift. I don't want to rip apart the trans and change the clutch again if that's not the problem...
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I am having trouble shifting my 6 speed into 2nd, 4th, and 6th. I got my clutch replaced about a year ago, not sure if that makes a difference. Any fixes short of bringing it to a shop?
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My 94 accord lx just received a replacement motor and tranny from jdm auto.its from a 95 odyssey. I had to swap throttle bodies, distributor... from the old one cuz the new one didn't have cruise control components, external coil... Now its seems rather gutless and it wont down shift when in d4 or d3 unless I come to complete stop, but sometimes it stays in 4th which sucks at an intersection! Also the shifter moves freely from first to neutral without pressing the button. and of course check engine light is on constantly. I've played with tranny cables fuses are good, reset ecu, fluid is new... every thing seems fine and the tranny that we took out down shifted fine so I must be missing something simple. timing?
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Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
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Is there a way to shut this feature off. I don't need to be told when I have to shift or down shift. I thought the manual tranny E's had the ECO button which would turn this feature off, but there's no button.
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2000 X V10 4WD... 178K. Truck was not well maintained for most of it's existence. Drained both the TC and Drain pain and replaced the oil filter. Tranny oil looked like crude and a lot of tiny specs of metal - it shimmered in the sun... needless to say - I'm pretty sure it had never been changed.
Now - issues since I've gotten it done... Tranny has been slipping... I figured that I may not have filled it enough and after adding a few quarts, it seems to have stopped. Slipping was initially just when going from a stop.
Now it's having a problem where the engine dies when I shift from one position to another... For instance - from Park to Reverse, the engine RPMs drop as the clutch engages - but they drop from about 900 RPM down to about 500. And 50/50 chance the engine dies. Going from Park to Drive, the same thing but maybe drops to about 700 RPMs. Tried it in 2nd and 1st gear. Has happened in both. I've tried shifting to OD first before going to 2nd to 1st or vice versa and seems to behave better.
Should I flash the ECU and have it relearn the shift points? Did I overfill? Between the TC and Drain Pan - about 16 qts came out. I've been checking the dipstick - no frothing or bubbles. When running and in park - it actually shows low. Seems to drive fine once it's on the road. The engine cutting off when it's put into gear is really unexpected.
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I just got my ISF 3 weeks ago and this issue got me pretty worried. I would like to hear if there has been a recall or a fix on this issue. While in Drive (D), the tranny wouldn't shift past 2nd for a couple of seconds. It went as high as 4.5RMP and wouldn't shift, the RPM kept going up. Letting go off the gas did not work, the RMP just stood where it was and slowly decreased with the speed. This lasted for a few seconds. I must admit that I was just pulling out of the driveway and she wasn't properly warmed up (16 degrees temp or 60fh)...
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Rebuilt trany after losing all gears filled the tranny and while cycling through the gear everything seemed to fine took it around the block topped off the fluid and went for a drive and it will not shift out of second and i lost reverse. What did i do wrong?
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I have 2002 celica gts 2zzge with bad tranny 6 gear is gone and 2 second grinds. My question will be how can I fix this tranny for cheap or can I swap it with the regular 1zzge tranny or can I use the gears from the 1zzge and put them in the 2zzge.....
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