Metro :: Sudden Engine Turn Off - Headlights Flashed Once And Then Completely Cut Out
Oct 27, 2010
When I was driving back from hunting on a dirt road riddled with pot holes and washboard. I came around a corner, hit a pothole and that's when bad things happened. The headlights flashed once and then completely cut out and wouldn't turn back on even after the car came to a full stop. Right after the headlights cut out the engine shutoff and refused to start again. When I turned the key to try and turn the car over all I got was the click, click, click (repeating) from the starter. This happened on a 94 geo metro with 193,000 miles on it.
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When I turn on my headlights my engine goes completely off. Once in a while i have to twist the key twice to turn on or hold the gas separate from that it run greats its a 1987 740 4door sedan...
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we have a 2013 Nissan Sentra which is primarily used by my husband for his 5-minute commute to work. We purchased it about 4 months ago from a used car place that we've used before; our whole family uses this place, and we've all been pretty happy with our purchases.
After we bought it, we had no problems. But a few weeks ago, shortly after daylight savings, my husband was fiddling with the clock on his ride home (I know, I know, I duly reprimanded him for doing that while driving!) but all of a sudden, the car turned OFF completely, as though he had turned the ignition off. The ignition was still on; he turned it off, then turned it back on again, and it worked again. We haven't had any issues since, but... this is greatly concerning to me!
My husband thinks it was just a fluke with the clock, but I'm thinking this is a MAJOR deal! IS it a major deal, and could it really have something to do with the CLOCK, or was that just an odd coincidence?
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I bought a 95 geo metro it ran for a few days then stop running. i have replaced about everything, new plugs, spark plug wires, sensors carborator etc. it seems like maybe it could be the timing but timing seems on. it wont turn over.
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My wife's 2009 Toyota Corolla is possessed and it's gotten her so frustrated she brought home a new puppy two days ago.
Over the last two weeks we've noticed a handful of times, after we've turned off the car and left it (with the interior headlight control in the off position) that we'd go out to the garage only to find the car's headlights on. (Keep in mind, it has a sensor that will automatically activate the headlights in dim light but this only is supposed to happen when the car is on.) It began having issues starting and yesterday it wouldn't turn over. Yet, when turning the ignition, it made a sound different than I've heard on the car when it has a dying/dead battery. Before calling the tow truck, I tried jumping it. The car did turn over -- and the headlights immediately came on (might have been the sensor in the dark garage, but they come on almost immediately rather than after a brief delay). Yet it died quickly after and wouldn't start again. My neighbor, however, smelled gas and suggested the engine might be flooded.
The car was towed to my mechanic -- who's a good guy. He just called and said the car turned on for him without a problem and he can't find anything despite running a battery of tests. He said he just doesn't want to swap stuff out without knowing there's an issue.
So, what could possibly be causing the car's headlights to go on when the car is completely turned off and the internal knob for the headlights is also in the off position? And could it be related to the car not turning over -- or did my wife flood the car when she tried to turn it over yesterday morning, creating a wholly separate issue?
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94 Blazer 5.7 liter ... Headlights won't come on... They flickered then went off completely. Check EGR light comes on occasionally. Lower 30 amp breaker on fusebox is extremely hot. All other lights work.
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Basically, my high beams work when flashed (pulling the lever), but they don't work when I want to leave them on (push the lever). It's obvious that it's not the bulbs since they work when flashing. I'd really like to avoid taking it to the dealership since the Lexus dealerships in my area are notorious for overcharging their customers and not doing a good job.
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Turning on headlights cuts engine. Sometimes won't start at all even with lights off. All dash lights go out as well. I.e. when auxiliary is on only radio works, turning on headlights shuts off radio. Recently got a used alternator. Could not find any issues pertaining to the alternator. New battery as well.
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I have Prius 2007, base model + package 2 & no upgrades. Not sure if it came with HID. It does not have a fog light.
I parked the car in front of a restaurant and waited. Turned off the headlights while waiting with engine running. Fiddled with the interior panel brightness dial a bit. When I turned on the car again the headlights wouldn't turn on - both of them. Drove home with hi-beam.
Checked the fuses H-LP LO for both RH & LH sides. They seem fine.
Asked wife to turn on/off headlights from stick - I could hear the click in the relay - so DIM relay is ok. With stick knob set to headlights and car running asked for the stick to be pushed to turn on/off high-beam- Could hear the relay engage + high beam on/off.
I looked closely to see if the mirror is moving - no movement. Just found it is possible for the same bulb to be High & low beams when there is no mirror movement with dual filament bulbs.
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1998 Honda CRV ... Had my engine repaired....Everything seems to work but discovered my headlights and taillights won't turn on. The signal lights work fine.
The mechanic says the lights are not burnt out ... so the light switch must be damaged. He did not mention any fuses or other causes. So I buy another light switch (the light switch/signal light combination stick on left side of the steering column) and install it but they still don't work. It seems really unlikely that all 4 fuses (2 x each head lights + 2 x each taillights) would blow all at the same time.
What could be causing this? It seems really simple like they forgot to connect some wiring harness somewhere but the mechanic didn't mention it the first time I took it in for the problem.
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I am having problem with the battery light coming on headlights on when switch is off the fuel gauge dancing up and down radio works intermittently that's when I start the van it will only run a few miles and the battery will go completely flat I have changed the starter do not believe it is the alternator as there to many electrical problems thinking that a short somewhere. Where to start and what to look at .....
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1993 Honda Accord LX (263,000 miles). My headlight indicator alarm does not activate when I turn off the engine with my headlights on. I have looked at all fuses. Problematic in the morning after sun rises and can no longer see the headlights .... dead battery.
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I have a 1995 ranger four letre 5sp, dubbed Beula. I figured there'd be a few gremlins and there was and is, which I know to be more common than not in older trucks. The top priority is figuring out why when I push the lever for the high beams forward, the headlights cut out completely, whether in gear or not, and I don't know where to begin troubleshooting. I've surfed around the forums looking for answers and really only found conjecture.
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I have a 97 metro runs good but when accelerating over 70 when you let off engine shuts down for a few seconds then takes off again. Replaced fuel pump and filter to no avail. It must be a fuel problem no misfire.
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Can i change from 3 cyl to 4 cyl 1992 metro....
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4 cyldr has very rough idle along with engine shake. Just started doing this. I replaced the cam sensor a few months ago and all has been well. But it started running so rough, almost like it jumped time. I was disconnecting sensors to see if motor idle changed and when I unplugged mass air flow sensor on air filter intake tube, nothing changed. Could this cause such a dramatic idle ?
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I have a 95 Geo Metro, automatic, 125K miles, which has suddenly developed a vibration. The car vibrates when hitting around 43-45 mph, at all other speeds it is all very smooth and quiet. I thought it must be in the drive train, but the vibration turns out to be in the motor, as it is present when hitting the required rpm range when the car is not moving. I gently raised the engine at different points slightly to take the weight off the motor mounts, in the hopes of finding one that was defective, but the vibration was still there. I also checked the exhaust system for clearance all around, and that doesn't seem to be an issue.
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This Geo Metro 3 cyl engine cranks with spark, but won't start. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pump relay. The fuel pump does not make a noise. What could it be?
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1995 Geo Metro. 133 thousand miles. Loud rattle from engine, massive loss of power at lower RPM, low vacuum pressure, not blown head gasket (ruled that out), going to replace all vacuum hoses, advanced vacuum switch under distributor, and bypass catalytic converter, any other options I'm missing?
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I have a 97 GEO Metro LSI (1.3 liter 4 cyl.) A/T w/ AC. Recently serviced the Transmission (i.e. dropped the pan, replaced filter etc..) and put new fluid in. Shortly after this, the battery light came on and the car began overheating. The vehicle is losing zero coolant/water. Dunno if the transmission service is related but mentioned it since it was so close in time to the current problem. Here is what I've done since.
~Replaced Thermostat (no result)
~Noticed that the Electric Fan Motor in front of AC is not working
~Replaced Fan Motor Relay (no result)
~Direct wired the Electric Fan Motor (AC) to battery.. IT Worked!!! and the car does not overheat HOWEVER, now the batter drains quickly and the AC blower is running 50% at full speed. As soon as I disconnect my direct wire.. the AC blows full on again but naturally the Electric Fan does not work
How to approach this problem?????
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My question: was there some some OBD code or light I should have expected (that didn't show)? What did the flashing Check Engine Light mean?
At 10:30pm last night, I picked my wife and bro-in-law up from the Logan airport, and on the way to drop BIL at his house, I saw a brief whisp of steam/smoke rise from the passenger side hood/wheel-well when idling at a top-light. I exclaimed that the car was smoking, but BOTH my wife and BIL insisted that we had been stopped over a steam grate. (In 70 degree weather? I puzzled, but since BOTH said that had been the case...).
A few minutes later, the check-engine light flashed (three times, I think) and then went off. I drive with an OBD ScanTool attached on the dash, so I immediately switched it to scan the codes, but it reported "clear" / no codes! Either immediately before or immediately after, the car lost accelerating power for 1 or 2 seconds (at most), but then resumed normal driving. No other dash lights were on, though I did not look at the temp gauge.
I am a former chef and professional cook, and have a VERY sensitive sense of smell-- there was NONE; I watched attentively, and the absence of further smoke/steam seemed to support the unseasonal steam-grate hypothesis. I had also picked up the car within the last 24 hours from THE HONDA DEALERSHIP, who I had asked to look everything over to ensure another 6 months of problem-free driving. (I rejected their offer of a $249.00 "triple flush" of transmission, brakes, and pwr steering.) We have otherwise had zero problems with the transmission or cooling-- the car is old, but maintained reasonably well and driven less that 5000 mi / year. Boston driving, but not aggressive or 19 years old!
No further thought, as all seemed okay except for the brief "blip", and pregnant wife, brother-in-law, two dogs, and I all wanted to get home.Drove the 2ish miles to our apartment, with no further blips. At a stoplight about 3 blocks from home, a LOT of smoke/steam started coming out from the hood. Still no lights or OBD codes! At that point, I pulled over within 5 seconds, and noticed that the temp was pinned or nearly so (If there is supposed to be a light on the gauges, I had it all the way dimmed). Looking under the hood, the spray pattern on the hood insulator made it easy to find the split in one of the hoses connected just under the distributor (about 1.25in OD; I'm guessing coolant or transmission, based on the symptoms??).
While waiting for a tow-truck (since I wasn't even sure if it would do any damage to drive the remaining blocks to my driveway), and after things had a chance to cool a bit, my wife restarted the engine for a second so I could check if any additional fluid came out of that split, but none did. Once the temp was back down towards the low end in 20ish minutes, I drove the car about one block so I could stop blocking traffic-- it drove fine, and the temp didn't visibly rise in that 200 yards. Still, the CEL was not on (or flashing) during startup or while running, and there were NO OBD CODES.
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