I have a 97 metro runs good but when accelerating over 70 when you let off engine shuts down for a few seconds then takes off again. Replaced fuel pump and filter to no avail. It must be a fuel problem no misfire.
View 11 RepliesI need diagnosing a problem on my 2002 Hyundai Accent LC. When I accelerate with the aircon on the engine stops accelerating at high RPM and when I accelerate from a stand still the engine hesitates and jerks! I don't understand what the problem may be coz it works perfectly after a cold start but after it warms it starts doing that.
View 3 Replies2001 F150 5.4 v8 ... In the past few months my truck has been a bit strange, but in the past few weeks it's gotten to the point I'm nervous to drive it. Usually when shifting around 30-35, the engine revs up and stops accelerating and I have to take my foot off the pedal to make it return to normal. It doesn't do this after I do that, but the past time I tried to drive I couldn't get above 35 and the rpm was in the upper 2000s going at a constant 35. When I stop for any reason such as making a turn, when it shifts it lurches forward and I hear a loud clunk.
Naturally, I've checked all the fluids and fuses and they're all fine. The mechanic I regularly visit insists that nothing is wrong with it.
I bought a 95 geo metro it ran for a few days then stop running. i have replaced about everything, new plugs, spark plug wires, sensors carborator etc. it seems like maybe it could be the timing but timing seems on. it wont turn over.
View 2 RepliesI have the light engine on - and my mechanic has informed me that the O2 sensor on bank one needs to be replaced. I need to understand if the lost of power when accelerating the car can be directly related to the O2 sensor or something else. The car hesitates and takes long to switch gears on my Auto tectronic trany.
View 2 RepliesI got my R flashed about a month ago and decided to do a little run 2 days ago at my local track (BYW I am APR stage 1+) Because I thought the software removed the speed limiter of 125 MPH, I was suprised when car got to 135 and completely stopped accelerating. When I slowed down, it was like the car had no turbo. I would press on the gas and it would barely move.
Idk if it was the turbo or the software. When I stopped I turned off the car and turned it right back on and BOOM, it was back to normal. So yesterday, the same thing happened at 110 MPH and I restarted it and everything was back to normal but now the Engine Malfunction Light is on but everything is working fine.
I have 02 GT 3.8L with 130k on it. When I accelerate it shakes extremely bad and when I let off the gas it stops. Is that a broken or worn CV joint or something else. And if it is should I replace both sides?
View 2 RepliesCar just stopped accelerating on highway. It starts again after about 10 minutes. Also the wheel gets stiff when it stops accelerating. What could be wrong?
View 3 RepliesWhile driving, the TCS light will flash and the car stops accelerating. Dry pavement, no bumps. I have to pull over to the side of the road, and shut the car off and restart, or wait a few minutes for it to stop having a fit.
I really don't feel save driving this car due to this issue. Is there a specific sensor that can be changed out or is this tied into the ABS and possibly individual wheel sensors.
I have a 95 chrysler lebaron that stops accelerating while driving. I have had the fuel pump replaced twice in the last year and now it is acting up again! It jumps and then gives up. I have not noticed any other signs that happen.
View 2 RepliesQuick q recently just got a gli and I've noticed a knocking sound when accelerating and shifting from stops could this be my motor mounts ? I was thinking my tranny or clutch but everything runs smooth and goes into gear fine
View 5 RepliesQuick q recently just got a gli and I've noticed a knocking sound when accelerating and shifting from stops could this be my motor mounts ? I was thinking my tranny or clutch but everything runs smooth and goes into gear fine...
View 1 RepliesCan i change from 3 cyl to 4 cyl 1992 metro....
View 1 Replies4 cyldr has very rough idle along with engine shake. Just started doing this. I replaced the cam sensor a few months ago and all has been well. But it started running so rough, almost like it jumped time. I was disconnecting sensors to see if motor idle changed and when I unplugged mass air flow sensor on air filter intake tube, nothing changed. Could this cause such a dramatic idle ?
View 2 RepliesI have a 95 Geo Metro, automatic, 125K miles, which has suddenly developed a vibration. The car vibrates when hitting around 43-45 mph, at all other speeds it is all very smooth and quiet. I thought it must be in the drive train, but the vibration turns out to be in the motor, as it is present when hitting the required rpm range when the car is not moving. I gently raised the engine at different points slightly to take the weight off the motor mounts, in the hopes of finding one that was defective, but the vibration was still there. I also checked the exhaust system for clearance all around, and that doesn't seem to be an issue.
View 4 RepliesThis Geo Metro 3 cyl engine cranks with spark, but won't start. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pump relay. The fuel pump does not make a noise. What could it be?
View 12 RepliesNoticed this to be a problem with our older 2011 Accent, now with the 2012 Accent.
The car has a rough idle usually in mornings, it seems like it is going to stall at stops, it also has a tough time accelerating.
The computer scan does not show there is anything wrong until the problem becomes worse.
This is what I have discovered through the 2011 Accent. Car will stall at stops. Very inconvenient in rush hour traffic. Until they replace the Crankshaft Point Censor, the problem would not go away.
I would insist on looking at this rather than replacing sparkplugs or having any other service performed if one is experiencing these same symptoms. The good thing is it is under warranty.
1995 Geo Metro. 133 thousand miles. Loud rattle from engine, massive loss of power at lower RPM, low vacuum pressure, not blown head gasket (ruled that out), going to replace all vacuum hoses, advanced vacuum switch under distributor, and bypass catalytic converter, any other options I'm missing?
View 2 RepliesWhen I was driving back from hunting on a dirt road riddled with pot holes and washboard. I came around a corner, hit a pothole and that's when bad things happened. The headlights flashed once and then completely cut out and wouldn't turn back on even after the car came to a full stop. Right after the headlights cut out the engine shutoff and refused to start again. When I turned the key to try and turn the car over all I got was the click, click, click (repeating) from the starter. This happened on a 94 geo metro with 193,000 miles on it.
View 6 RepliesI have a 97 GEO Metro LSI (1.3 liter 4 cyl.) A/T w/ AC. Recently serviced the Transmission (i.e. dropped the pan, replaced filter etc..) and put new fluid in. Shortly after this, the battery light came on and the car began overheating. The vehicle is losing zero coolant/water. Dunno if the transmission service is related but mentioned it since it was so close in time to the current problem. Here is what I've done since.
~Replaced Thermostat (no result)
~Noticed that the Electric Fan Motor in front of AC is not working
~Replaced Fan Motor Relay (no result)
~Direct wired the Electric Fan Motor (AC) to battery.. IT Worked!!! and the car does not overheat HOWEVER, now the batter drains quickly and the AC blower is running 50% at full speed. As soon as I disconnect my direct wire.. the AC blows full on again but naturally the Electric Fan does not work
How to approach this problem?????
Well I am not sure if i have trans problem or not. If I put the trans in drive and go through the gears when the RPM's get to about 2000 the truck almost stops accelerating, until you give it much more gas, this happens in every gear. but If you push the button to take it out of overdrive and drive like that it doesn't do it.
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