Metro :: AC / Heater Blower Switch Lever Slides Smoothly Without Stopping At Desired Speed
Oct 13, 2010
My switch is bad. I took it out and looked at it and cleaned it up and put it back in. The lever slides smoothly without stopping at the desired speed. Contact is made but the switch likes to pop up out of the assembly. I could use zip ties to keep it in, but like I said, it doesn't work properly anyway. I have looked everywhere in the searches and used parts links on the Geo Forum but can't find one.
Any blower switch that I can put in my Geo Metro '97, 1.0L, 3 cyl., base model with std. trans.? I need the switch/cover that is at the top of the picture, It pops in above the lever and by the 4 little clip rectangular holes coming up from the assembly.
Inside the switch there is a small spring and ball bearing about the size of a bb that causes the switch to "click". Spring and ball disappeared long ago. -- From a different thread. Does the spring and ball bearing come with the switch or is that a separate item?
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The switch is broken internally and the wipers are set on the highest speed. For now I just pulled the wiper fuse so I can still drive to work and whatnot without burning up the wiper motor. Were I can find a cheap replacement switch? 97 LSi SDN ....
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The heater blower in my 1999 F350 continues to run after the switch is turned off. I checked the relay and it is working properly. Looking for a wiring diagram showing the control circuit for the blower?
Do the heater switch controls power to the relay coil or if the switch grounds the coil to pick up the relay?
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My buddy has a 97 f350 with a 460. When he accelerates his HVAC changes from vent to defrost then back when the desired speed is reached. What can be causing this?
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Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. It it the blower, the switch or the little box behind the blower? When it does work, it starts out slow and slowly gains speed.
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The car is a '99 Volvo V70 XC AWD. The blower for the heater wasn't working this morning. When I left work it was blowing a little but not as high as it should on full.
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, my trucks heat selector lever, that controls the temperature in my truck, is stuck in the cold setting. by stuck I mean, I can try to move it, but it wont budge more than about 1/16" and no more. its really frustrating because of the cold weather here, and I want to have SOME heat in my truck without a bonfire to get it.
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My wife has a 2006 Sonata and it ran great up until about a month ago, she started noticing when she hits the brakes and sometimes when she hits the gas the a/c blower motor would stop blowing for a second and all the lights would dim. So i drove the car for a day and she was right. the blower motor shuts off and the lights dim for roughly 1 second during breaking then it all works fine again.
What this could be? the car has no check engine light on or anything. I was hoping this is a common thing with a known fix.
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I have a 2004 F350 dually 4x4 5spd/wod tranny. The day after I bought the truck (Nov 2013) the tow/haul switch quit working (light in instrument panel/not on end of shift lever). I need info/direction/instruction on replacing the lever switch. I have not actually utilized the tow/haul function but will do so 80% of the time starting in the spring. I bought the truck exclusively to haul a 4 horse/living quarters gooseneck trailer (10,500 lb empty; 16,500 lb loaded).
I have no reason to believe the light is burnt out, so I will replace the shift lever switch and see if the light will operate again.
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Had the shift lever recall (clip) performed. Now the driver's seat heater won't turn off. I call the dealer back and they said that nothing they performed would have caused the issue. However, I don't trust the stealership.
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My '93 Metro 3 cyl (The Phoenix) is becoming a bit 'Long in the Tooth'...
Now, this summer, it has started creaking and popping when I go over wavy roads or take sharp curves at speed.
If I accelerate/decelerate the frame pops over on the passenger side and I hear pops in the trunk area.
I wonder how much longer it will be safe to drive.
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My reverse lights are out on my GLI 2004, i bought a new reverse light switch thinking that would fix it but no.......
I then checked for power in line and by jumping it and the light go on
So Switch is goodLine as power
But as soon as it's intalled no go, light out.... it seem's like the lever inside doesn't reach the connector from the switch.
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I bought a 95 geo metro it ran for a few days then stop running. i have replaced about everything, new plugs, spark plug wires, sensors carborator etc. it seems like maybe it could be the timing but timing seems on. it wont turn over.
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The blower fan inside the truck blows just fine when you first start the truck but will cut off and not blow at all after a few minutes. Then it will cut back on after a minute or so. It does this off and on all the time. It seems if it were a fuse it would just cut off and not come back on. This is a Dodge Ram 1500 Sport Edition.
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So I believe I have glitch in my blower system. When I have the car and heater on, it comes through, but it feels like the blower isn't working much at all. however, when I but the car in reverse or hit the windshield wiper cleaner, the blower starts doing its job like it should.
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Hard to fix? Only happens when going under 5 mph either in slow traffic or slowing down to park in parking spot or just stopping the car. Doesn't happen at high speeds. It's like I'm driving on snow or ice or wet pavement but there is dry pavement. Brake pads and rotors were cleaned with no success. Guessing that a sensor is dirty or broken or such.
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I have recently noticed a vibration that occurs at VERY low speed - such as below 0mph and 1mph, while just starting (or stopping).
The best way to describe this vibration is that it feels somewhat similar to going over a rumble-strip - but not quite so intense.
It only happens for a very short time while just starting off (or coming to a stop) - and then goes away. You almost have to try to make it happen. If I try to carefully control the increase of the car's speed, I can -sort of- extend the amount of time that this happens.
I certainly have to be on the 'look out' to notice this and attempt to make it happen to really identify it. Otherwise, (if I accelerate too quickly i.e.: normally) it just feels like a couple of bumps in the road.
I think I read on here somewhere something about a breakdown of the winding insulation that provides such an effect? Is there any straightforward way (perhaps with a scan gauge or other tool) to conclusively diagnose this?
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I have a 2012 C 3, with 27K miles. This morning on the way to the store i turned on the heater and the fan turned on and after like 2 mins the blower stop working. All the lights are on, but nothing comes out of the vents under any circumstances. I tried taking of the ECO mode, I tried turning the car on and off. still nothing.
If I bring it to the dealer will they fix it under warranty? Could it be a bad fuse? where is the fuse box? What could it be, its freezing outside and I need heat for the kids in the car.
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AS topic states, it just stopped working on my wife's drive home from work... I believe the fuse is the 2nd one from the top.. far left... I checked it, and it's in-tact...
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I have a 2004 Elantra. The blower for heat/ac not working. I did all of this:
Checked interior fuses, all OK.
Checked 30 amp fuse in engine compartment, put a new one in.
Pulled blower motor out and tested with a 12V power supply: worked fine.
Replaced Blower Relay
Replaced Blower Resistor
all of this and still no blower.
The heater control panel on the dash has 3 knobs. When I turn the first to AC...the light comes on and I hear the AC kick in. 2nd knob is blower fan...nothing on any setting. 3rd knob...hot and cold...not sure since no blower.
I am lost at what to do next.
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1995 Isuzu Rodeo.
My heater blower does not work. I pulled the connector to the resister behind the glove box and couldn't find any current going to it. I had the key on. I checked and also replaced the blower fuse in the box under the hood (just in case) and checked all the fuses in the fuse box by the driver's door.
Is there somewhere else I should check to see why I don't have any power going to the resister?
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