I bought a 95 geo metro it ran for a few days then stop running. i have replaced about everything, new plugs, spark plug wires, sensors carborator etc. it seems like maybe it could be the timing but timing seems on. it wont turn over.
View 2 RepliesI present to you now, for your review, a 1993 Geo Metro, 1.0 L 3 cyl with automatic trans and A/C. It is a Vin Code 6 Engine (5 bolt crank pulley).This car stopped running on the road without warning. When I finally took off the distributor I discovered a spiderweb of copper wire that apparently came from the Camshaft Position Sensor (some call it the ignition pickup and others erroneously call it a "module.") Full Service Manual says it is indeed the Camshaft Position Sensor.
I thought, no problem, must have worn out or maybe something wrong with the signal rotor. I took the distributor out of my other 1993 geo metro and installed it in the ailing one.Cranked it twice, it almost started then just died.When I took off the distributor, would you believe what I found?It happened to the NEW distributor. Copper wire spiderweb!What is causing my distributor to eat these sensors? It cannot be mechanical, it must be electrical.
My radiator is running hot and I cannot tell if I need a thermostat or if I have issues with the coolant fan. 4 cyl. auto.
View 1 RepliesSo I have 95 1 liter 5 speed, it runs fine and smooth first thing, but once it gets warm it idles rough, poor mpg 33-37 and eats a lot of oil have to say a quart every 300 miles does not leak oil, does not smoke, need new muff and resonater.
Check engine light is not on. can i hook it up to hand held code reader .? 95 is it obd 2?
I have a 2001 chevy metro 4 cyl. with 13 inch wheels and automatic transmission. The engine rpm's are running high at highway speeds. Would a larger diameter wheel support this situation?
View 8 RepliesThe car starts fine. It sometimes takes a few seconds of turning the car over to get it started. I guess I should state that it is a 3cyl 5 speed. When you go to drive it there is no power. A hill I use to go up in 4th gear I now have to use 2nd gear. I have replaced the plug wires and it operates the same. If I take off each wire while it is running you can tell that cylinder was working. I have not checked the compression yet. I am thinking it might be the fuel pump. I'm going to also check the fuel pressure.
View 6 RepliesI got a 95 geo metro with a 1.3 that i cant figure out whats wrong with it. I got gas to the lines leading to the throttle body, but theres no gas coming through injector. I cant hear the fuel pump kick over either, which makes me wonder if the pump isnt putting out proper pressure. What's going on?
View 9 RepliesI have a 93 Geo Metro. I have replaced the alternator and belt but still receive a squealing sound when the car starts up. The Squeal will go away after the car has ran for a minute but will come back if I turn on too much electrical devices. Is there a censor that can go, making the alternator hard to turn, causing the belt to squeal.
View 14 RepliesFirst time user here, have done several repairs to my vehicles, but I'm still a greenhorn when it comes to general car operation knowledge.
My 1997 Geo Metro with a 1.3 Liter will start when the engine is cold but once it warms up it refuses to start. I've replaced fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator, and checked to make sure the fuel pump is working and it is. I think I've narrowed it down to the fact that the fuel injector is not pulsing. It will fire when I prime it, but dies immediately.
New battery, new terminals but my car won't turn over if I need to make a quick stop somewhere. I must wait at least an hour for the proper amount of voltage to build up and then the car starts just fine. What is going on?
View 7 RepliesMy wifes 2000 chevy metro is either stalling out or bogging out . But usually happens after a drive on the highway 15 miles or so on a hot Arizona day, then say shut off at a gas station, then, go to restart it and sometimes probs starting, but not always. Then, while driving , it will be fine then stall and fall on its face. You can floor it and it won't go anywhere, but it will idle ok. If its cool outside, no issues. I am thinking O2 sensor or temp sensor. It runs real good otherwise this recent issue.
View 5 RepliesI have a '92 metro that was getting 50+ mpg a few years ago when I drove it. The car has since been given to my daughter and she started complaining that the best she could get was around 39 - 40 mpg. A few months later, it burned an exhaust valve. Upon dis-assembly, I found the EGR valve was not working - passages plugged. I know the EGR caused the burned valve. Could it also be responsible for the lousy fuel mileage?
View 4 RepliesWhere is the cam sensor on a 2000 chevy metro 4 cyl. ?
View 1 RepliesSo, 97 Geo metro 4 cylinder... bought it last month with no lights on... but within 7 miles of purchasing it the check engine light came on. Code is for a High Intake Air Temp... went to take a look at the sensor first... but the sensor had just fallen out of it's mount and was sitting in a hotter area than it belonged... I plugged it in where it goes and the light went out... for about a week. The light came back on, the sensor's where it should be, and I have the same code. I figured it being close to the exhaust manifold may have damaged the sensor, so I replaced that... and the light stayed on. Since it was intermittent before, I assumed the code just didn't clear, so I've been driving it for a while hoping the computer will reset, but no luck.
So, assuming the sensor's fine, what would cause a constant high intake air temp (including when the car first starts)?
I have a 1996 Geo Metro LSI 1.3L, automatic trans.
ISSUE #1
The airbag light will not go off. I replaced the air bag control module under the shifter console and the front impact sensor near the hood latch. No effect. What is my next step? I was thinking of replacing the steering column sensor/module.
ISSUE #2
Note: I also replace the ECU to no avail. I did this because the check engine light keeps coming on. I clear the code, but "low emission threshhold) code keep returing. Does this mean my catalytic converter is gone, or could it be the O2 sensors?
Every time you engage the car in drive it blows a fuse. I have checked through the wiring but cannot see what the cause is.
View 14 RepliesI bought 95 metro 3 cyc. 5 sd. bad tranny. The clutch is shot spins when put in 4th w e-brake on the tranny will not shift in to 3rd or 5th gear. Seller also gave me a different tranny says 2nd is shot and also a rebuild kit ( bearings,seals,secniorz) same as the one in the photo from dr bills tranny rebuild. What are my options for the tranny not going in to gear and what the easy way I should go.
I've never rebuild a tranny but I've done just a bout everything else to a car u can think of from rebuild motors to brakes and bodywork. Mainly want to no what the problem is with it not going in to gear. I know I will have to split case to find out for sure and I am going to start with the one that not in car. That supposedly 2nd don't work.
I have a 97 metro runs good but when accelerating over 70 when you let off engine shuts down for a few seconds then takes off again. Replaced fuel pump and filter to no avail. It must be a fuel problem no misfire.
View 11 RepliesWell, it looks like I have an interesting issue. My car is an automatic and it starts in second gear, a lot. It seems to do it more, when it's warmer, so would that most likely be a faulty valve body.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1994 Geo Metro that I picked up a little over a year ago. I had to swap engines and replaced the clutch at the same time. This included a turned flywheel and new pressure plate. I also replaced all seals and gaskets except for the distributor O-ring and the head gasket. This included the crank and cam seals on the front and rear of the engine as well as the seal housing gaskets/oil pump gasket. I drove it for several months and then the distributor O-ring began to leak oil profusely which is a common problem with these cars. The distributor is keyed directly into the camshaft on the rear side of the engine so it sits sideways directly above the transmission/engine interface. Some of the leaking oil went right down into the clutch area. Being that adding a cup of synthetic oil every day was still cheaper than driving one of my pickups, I just kept driving the car until the new O-ring arrived and added oil. Once the O-ring was replaced, the oil leak stopped.
I had a couple episodes of clutch slipping not long after the leak was fixed and then everything seemed fine. I figured that some oil got down there and wore off after the clutch stopped slipping. The car drove fine for about a year until I began noticing the clutch slipping under load in 4th and 5th gear. I had some suspicions of this for a week or so before it became more obvious that the clutch was most definitely slipping. I have a new clutch kit and a spare flywheel that I plan to have machined in the next few days. I have been driving it a couple weeks around town and just babying it so the clutch won't slip.
I was also told by some that I should intentionally burn the clutch some to remove any glaze build up on the clutch disc or flywheel/pressure plate surfaces. They told me to put the parking brake on or put the front bumper up against a tree and burn the clutch. I originally figured this was a bad idea but decided to try it yesterday, figuring I had little to lose. I did it just until I began to see smoke and smell it and then stopped. I let everything cool off for an hour and then took the car for a drive. The clutch was no longer slipping at all so I am wondering if this fixed the problem for now or simply delayed the issue for a short while. I am sure I took some life off the clutch by doing this but....
Can i change from 3 cyl to 4 cyl 1992 metro....
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