1995 Geo Metro. 133 thousand miles. Loud rattle from engine, massive loss of power at lower RPM, low vacuum pressure, not blown head gasket (ruled that out), going to replace all vacuum hoses, advanced vacuum switch under distributor, and bypass catalytic converter, any other options I'm missing?
View 2 RepliesI have a 95 Geo Metro, automatic, 125K miles, which has suddenly developed a vibration. The car vibrates when hitting around 43-45 mph, at all other speeds it is all very smooth and quiet. I thought it must be in the drive train, but the vibration turns out to be in the motor, as it is present when hitting the required rpm range when the car is not moving. I gently raised the engine at different points slightly to take the weight off the motor mounts, in the hopes of finding one that was defective, but the vibration was still there. I also checked the exhaust system for clearance all around, and that doesn't seem to be an issue.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Chevy Malibu, V6, 3.1, auto, 140k miles. Car started out with code 0420 with no noticeable symptoms, but then added code 0303 (miss fire cyl #3) with loud knock (mostly after warmup) and loss of power under load. Now internal loss of coolant (no puddles or external drips). Changed plugs and wires - no change - all plugs looked good with no sign of contamination. Questions - if this is a valve/piston/lifter problem (which would explain the knock, miss-fire and loss of power), why would I get the loss in coolant? If the loss of coolant is fouling plug #3 (which would explain the coolant loss, miss fire and loss of power), could that give me the loud knocking? I don't see how a valve/piston/lifter issue would cause a leak in coolant but I also don't see how a coolant leak into cyl #3 would give me such a loud knock. Do I have two different problems? If it is a leak into cyl #3, is there any way to tell if it is the intake manifold gasket (which leaked before and was replaced five-six years ago and which I could do again if I had to) or a blown head gasket (which I don't think I could fix or afford to get fixed)? Engine will occasionally get hot (but not overheat).
View 7 RepliesI got a 95 geo metro with a 1.3 that i cant figure out whats wrong with it. I got gas to the lines leading to the throttle body, but theres no gas coming through injector. I cant hear the fuel pump kick over either, which makes me wonder if the pump isnt putting out proper pressure. What's going on?
View 9 RepliesMy radiator is running hot and I cannot tell if I need a thermostat or if I have issues with the coolant fan. 4 cyl. auto.
View 1 RepliesI am the original owner of the car, which has approximately 125k miles on it. The car has given me great service, but lately a strange problem arose that has my mechanic stumped. When I try to accelerate, the car typically does not respond. After 5 seconds or so, the engine suddenly comes to life and the car begins to accelerate. At high speeds it is not an issue, but the engine sputters once in a while. It has never stalled. It is not the transmission because the RPM stays low during low-power times.
The mechanic initially thought that it was a dirty fuel filter. But, changing it has not worked. Once the engine light came on, and the code was for the air-flow sensor. But, the mechanic is not convinced about that.
The problem tends to become worse after driving for a while, after the engine has warmed up.
I have a 1995 Camry with the 4cyl 5sfe engine and a manual transmission with about 120K miles. It's been very reliable overall, but lately it's been exhibiting some strange intermittent behavior. When driving at a steady speed between 2-3K rpms, it'll sometimes experience a momentary power loss. There's no stalling, but it's as if I've hit a stiff headwind or the brakes have been applied and then release. It doesn't seem to happen when accelerating, but as mentioned above, it's most noticeable when maintaining a steady speed. Sometimes it'll be very quick like it's bucking and other times it'll last a full second or two. It'll do it in all gears at both relatively low speeds and highway speeds, so there's no pattern there. There is no check engine light when this happens, but I have not yet attempted to check codes just in case it might be storing any. It'll happen when the engine is both cold and at normal operating temperature. I've also tried to observe whether or not the tachometer drops when it bumps, but haven't really been able to discern that due to the usual momentary nature of the power loss.
The coil on this car is integrated into the distributor and I read somewhere that it's common for these to start to go as these Camrys age and accumulate a lot of miles. I also read that it's common for these cars to hesitate due to internally leaking fuel pulsation dampeners. The AC compressor makes a little noise, and sometimes it almost feels like what you would expect it to feel when the compressor kicks on, although the jolt or 1-2 second sustained power loss, depending on what occurs, feels stronger than that. Plus it'll do it with the AC off, so that doesn't seem to be a possibility. Other than this problem, the car has no issues whatsoever. It's quiet, uses very little oil, idles perfectly and maintains optimal operating temperature. The miles are about 75% highway since I've been using it mostly as an airport commuter car. Most essential maintenance items, such as the clutch, timing belt, water pump, oil seals, PCV valve, thermostat, radiator, motor mounts, etc. have been replaced within the last 15K miles, and most are Toyota OEM parts. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor have all been replaced within the last 10K miles, again with Denso plugs and wires, but aftermarket cap and rotor. I did feel up under the distributor and got some fresh oil on my fingers, so the o-ring might be leaking a bit. However, I don't know yet if there is any internal leakage inside the distributor itself.
I'm going to tear into it a bit, but I wanted to see which direction to look first. Would you suspect a spark issue (again, no CEL illuminates), or something more like a fuel delivery issue? I also wondered if it might be something like the TPS or perhaps a cam or crank position sensor on the way out.
I have a '95 Ford Ranger, 208,000 miles, manual transmission. It's always run well but about four weeks ago I began to have a loss of acceleration. This had gotten so bad now that I can't drive it. I can't make it up the smallest hill; and top speed is about 30 mph. I've taken it to the Ford service center here, and they say it's because my power steering pump is going bad and has to be replaced. Sounds odd to me; but what do I know! The repair is about 450.00.
View 5 RepliesOk I got a 1995 toyota corolla 1.8l dx .... So this is my back up car I went out started it up let it set and warm up and took it around the yard to run it a little well it ran fine then all of a sudden it lost all it's power well I finaly got it back to the drive that was only 50ft away took almost 30mins just to get it there. I cut it off let it sit started it back up and still no power well now it won't even start it has new plugs.. Wires.. Cap button.
View 17 RepliesI have a 95 aerostar with the 4.0. After driving a while it wants to lose power. It only happens after the van has been running for a while, at least 2 hours or more. So of course I have mostly noticed it at higher speeds because I was on the interstate going a long distance when it happened most recently. But it has also happened at lower speeds, after the van had been running/driving for about 4 hours. The van doesn't die right off. It is idling as the van slows down. So I can come to a stop, and the van is still running. I can get out and look at it sometimes, it eventually will cut off. Pushing the gas does nothing, other than perhaps encourage it to stall sooner. It is a complete loss of power but the engine remains running at an idle. If I wait 15 minutes it will go a couple more miles down the road. If I wait about an hour, I can get even further. Let it sit overnight and it seems like it will drive endlessly but not so.
If I try to restart it immediately, sometimes it will run/stutter for a moment. I can wait a few minutes and it will run for a minute then die. After repeated tries to get it to start and stay running it just won't, and then I just wait patiently for an extended amount of time (30 minutes or more). Also on a couple of occasions the exhaust has smelled very rich, and sometimes was black. All of this has been in the last couple of days and 600 miles. It isn't throwing any codes.
3.0 ENGINE - For a year now I could not figure out what was wrong with my van. It has a loss of power low end but seems to run OK at higher speeds. I changed the plugs, wires, cap etc, fuel filter and no difference. I finally broke down and took it to Firestoneto diagnose it. The guy told me #5 plug was foul and had oil on in, said it is possibly the rings. They did not charge me but they also did not do a thorough check either. They did not check the compression in the cylinder or other spark plugs.
Spoke to a guy at the auto part store and asked what I could do. He said change the oil and add a can of restore. Also said to put a anti foul adapter in first and then the new plug, the adapter would keep the oil from fouling the new plug.
I got the oil change and added the restor. Drove it for a while and took the plug out myself, its the 2nd one in on the drivers side. The plug was nasty looking. Put the new plug in and started it up. I can see that there is spark going to the new plug but putting the wire on and off made no difference in how the engine ran, like the cylinder was dead. I took the plug out of the adapter and put it back in, still nothing, I took the plug back out and there was no oil or smell of gas. Fuel injector not working? You would think there would be some combustion with the new plug.
A year ago the problem started where the van would run great one day then crappy the next. Sometimes it would run a few days great(like new) then a few days crappy. After a month or so it just ran crappy and basically has ran the same for a year now. I notice the A/C puts a load on the engine and the A/C clutch will click on and off every few second when the van is in gear but not when the van is in park or neutral. A/C is not low and works fine when driving, very cold. I normally turn the A/C off during take off because it takes off much slower with the A/C running.
The van shows some white smoke when I rev it up real good when I first start it but it does not show any smoke when idle and while driving.
First there was a loud pop as if a hose came off and a power loss - don't seem to see any hose disconnected. Happened to me once and seemed to return to normal and then happened to my son. Have not driven since the last time. Both times pulling a boat.
Second issue has been going on since I got the truck - bought used apprx. a year ago - believe it to be stock. The time from pushing accelerator until actual kick in is very elongated - sometimes worse than others but very long on the worst side. Usually noticed when needing to pass on the highway. Once kicked in truck runs well.
Pulled out of the restaurant I ate dinner at tonight and I lost most power and there's a loud air sucking sound. I felt around all the boots and didn't feel any air, but it was really hot and couldn't feel a whole bunch. It's a 2003 7.3 with 295k. There is a little smoke/soot coming from the turbo area, any chance that's related? I'm perplexed...
View 10 RepliesMy 95 civic lossed all power slowly while doin 70mph on the freeway in 5th gear and wouldn't accelerate no matter how much gas i gave it. My battery lihht came on at the same time. I just put a new engine, transmission, distributor, engine mounts. Where I should start looking for a problem first.
View 16 RepliesI own a 1988 Camaro Iroc-Z with a 5.7 350 TPI motor. I was driving the car onto I-95 at a speed of 65 when I heard a loud boom under my car, and pulled over to see what had happened. I couldn't see what happened, so I drove the car slowly to a friends garage to find the exhaust pipe from the converter back to the muffler had split and blew apart. I took my car to another shop to repair the pipe, but when I left the shop after the repair, I accellerated to about 40 mile per hour, I get another loud backfire and loss of power. The pipe is still intact, but I cannot figure out what is causing the backfire. My friend from the first garage says it is a failing fuel pump. I never heard of such a thing to be honest.I am at a loss and I have to correct the issue soon, as this is my only car to drive.
View 4 RepliesI have a loud engine rattle like there's a golf ball bouncing around in the engine. So far the mechanics have no idea where the knocking is coming from. Here's a video of the sound at idle. If you attempt to drive (or rev above 1500rpm) the sound becomes very loud and is then obviously undrivable.
It's a 1999 Volvo V70, 2.4L, non-turbo, automatic has 260,000km or 162,000mi
[URL] ....
Listen for the fuel injectors and the lifters. Under that there is a low, steady Knock. There is also a louder bang that is irregular. It sounds like I'm hitting the camera or the car but it comes from within the engine! First it's irregular then catches up with the engine speed. What those noises might be?
I was just beginning a road trip and all the fluids were checked. Engine has appeared to be fine for years. I pretty much only use Shell silver grade gas.I had filled up the tank 100 km prior.I had just changed the oil and filter 200km prior.Symptoms appeared as I was pulling on to the highway for the first time that day.
As I accelerated on to the on ramp (with four passengers) the oil pressure light came on.5km after that I thought I heard a low oil ticking so I pulled over to check and as I did, the engine really started knocking and whining. Checked the oil and it was full and later I found out there was pressure. Coolant was okay too. Turned the car on and oil pressure light never came back on. No check engine light.As I tried to get off the highway the knocking was so bad I could barely drive it. Probably should have left it. Got off the highway and called a tow truck.
The mechanic has drained the oil and found metal filings. He checked the timing belt and it is fine and hasn't slipped. No idea yet where the sound is coming from.
My car shifted wrong (i don't know how since it is automatic) and heard a loud knocking noises and lost power and then she shut down and turned off. called Hyundai assurance and they towed it to the nearest dealership since my dealership is an hour and a half away from my school. I don't know how this happened. I tried to crank it back up. heard a loud squeal maybe water pump? and she turns on but the rpms wouldn't go past 500 rpms well there she goes.
View 26 RepliesI have a 2012 Camry SE with about 30k on it. I've always been a huge Toyota fan but I've had some interesting things happen with my first new car that has me questioning quality. I've had a mouse nest in the cabin air filter with the dead mouse laying in the engine bay (not a toyota issue), a loud rattling exhaust/engine rattle when I start the car, and the common interior creaks that I've been reading about.
However I've noticed a noise coming from somewhere behind the dash, maybe the instrument panel area that has been very annoying. It occurs at highway speeds usually above 65mph and it's kind of like a quick tapping. Very faint but definitely noticeable.
Its not the sunroof because, unfortunately I have that issue also lol. It took me a while to narrow it down to behind the dash but that's as far as I can get because I can't search for it while I'm driving. I'm not very picky but I do like to drive in silence sometimes and listen to the sounds of the engine/tranny shifting (weird I know) but that dashboard noise has been ruining it.
Experienced this (Loud engine knock or rattle noise) regarding the service bulletin (T-SB-0010-12)? If so, did you take your vehicle in for service?
View 19 RepliesMy 99 F150 4x4, 5.4 triton all of a sudden got very loud and has a loss of power. To me, it sounds like a cylinder is straight open to the atmosphere. I at first thought a spark plug blew out or an injector somehow came dislodged but I checked and everything seems ok. It's coming from the passenger side somewhere but is so loud under the hood I can't tell exactly where.
I took the valve cover off to see if a valve is stuck open or something, but I don't really know what I'm looking at as far as internal engine goes. I turned the crank by hand with a ratchet and the valves seem to follow the cams, but I've never inspected valves before so don't really know what to look for. What could be causing this loss of power and incredibly loud noise?
Trying to find any information on what's happening with my 2008 2.2 Diesel Santa Fe ... Been driving fine until I pulled up at a set of traffic lights yesterday and started hearing a loud rattle- knocking coming from the engine at idle.
Put it in gear and drove and it goes away. When at idle if you rev the car it goes away.
Mechanic seems to think it could be clutch as it vibrates the gearbox, but sound seems to be more prominent around the engine, my thoughts were maybe a loose timing tensioner.
Clutch replacement is very expensive.