Mercury - Tracer :: 1994 - Engine Started Trembling On 5th Gear?
Jul 11, 2011
I have this excellent little car which has not given me any headache on its 210K miles so far. In the last four mounths, however, I started to notice that the engine starts kind of trembling on 5th gear and loses its power as if sothing chokes it, if I keep pressing the gas pedal it will make it worst, but once I let it go or shift down to 4th gear it reasumes normally for a while and then comes back again. I was told this could be a ignition coil or an axle problem.
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I have a back up vehicle which my son uses occasionally. It's '1994 Mercury tracer. All the transmission fluid appears to be on the ground. Would that mean the transmission is no good! We haven't driven it but once this summer. My son bought some transmission fluid and put it in.
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Recently I had a stuttering and squealing from a belt. I was able to shift into all gears with no problems. Before I could get it looked at, the squealing stopped and I was unable to go faster than 30 mph. The belt and pulley were replaced, but the car now will not shift out of 2nd gear. Transmission fluid is good, and has not been leaking. Does this indicate that I will need a new transmission? Or is there possibly a less expensive possibility? I've heard that some vehicles have what's called "limp mode". Also, is it safe to drive at 30-35 mph., and what damage might I do by driving it?
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I have a 1989 mercury tracer. The starter was just replaced and the the car started and ran fine for 3 days. Then when the car was switched on but not running after about 5 minutes, the car started itself, without touching or moving the key. Now whenever it is switched to the on position the starter goes on, and never goes off. The last time I drove it before this, after it ran for about an hour, I think the starter may have gone on, when I was a few minutes from parking it, because it started to make a lot of noise. the next day when I was checking it is when the starter engaged and started the motor with the key on but the car not running.
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I have a 1999 Mercury Tracer with a 2.0 engine. 149,000 miles on the engine. Here is the trouble, it overheats at low driving speeds. My temp stays normal at idle in the driveway, normal at speeds of 35/45/55 or more. After about 10-15 minutes of driving around 25-30MPH though, the temp climbs steadily and approaches the red line. I checked my oil level and coolant level. Both of them appear to be fine. I have not noticed any leaks from the water pump area and cannot see any coolant in my driveway.
Could it be the thermostat is stuck closed? Air bubble in my coolant?
I have NOT pressure tested it yet, but I will be doing that this evening.
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1998 mercury tracer-
Car doesn't start, makes no sound at all when key is turned. After removing the key, engine light and shift light stay illuminated and the gps plugged into lighter stayed on. Normally there is no power to lighter with ignition off and key out. Headlights don't come on and remote entry doesn't work.
We tried to jumpstart-still doesn't start or make any sound at all. But the two dash lights went out once the cables were hooked to other battery. After disconnecting, dash lights remained off as well as power at lighter.
Battery voltage is 12.16v and it's only 2.5 years old.
Could it just be a bad battery?Does the fact we couldn't jumpstart it indicate a problem other then the battery?
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Have vibration in steering wheel starting at around 70 mph on the highway:-This started after changing out front braked pads, but the brakes are smooth when applied with no vibration also turned rotors by hand to check for any grabbing on pad everything is fine.-Jacked up car and checked for wheel movement, everything seems tight.-Swapped tires around to see if a tire was out of balance.These are some of the things I have tried.
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The shifter goes into the incorrect gear for what is showing on the dash.
For example:
A little left of Park = Park
Park=Reverse
Reverse/Neutral/Drive = Neutral
A little right (almost gear 2) of Drive = Drive
Once I have found the gear and the shifter is set, the handle has enough play in it that allows it to rest over the correct slot.
It started after I put the car into neutral from drive without pulling the handle back but instead just pushing it to the left. When I went to put it back into drive, it was still in neutral.
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My mother in-law has a 94 Chrysler LHS, 3.5 V6, auto, 66k. Yesterday she was driving home and said the check engine light was on. I went to check it out and the light was not on. The light come on when the key is turned on but goes out when it is started. This is not an OBD-2 car it has a little blue plug and i do not have a code reader for it. Took it to auto zone and they do not have a code reader for this car. Auto Zone and Pep Boys both told me that if the light is off there will not be a code. Further checking on the internet I found out you can get a two digit code by turning the key on and off and count the flashing check engine light. It worked I got code 12 and 51. 51 means lean O2 sensor. If this is true that why does the CEL not stay on. How can I test the O2 sensors?
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My wife's 2004 Mercury Sable broke down on the highway last night. We had it towed to the nearest Ford Dealership and are awaiting the official diagnosis. I am 99% sure it is transmission, as the engine didn't die, but zero of engines power is reaching tires in any gear.
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I recently acquired a family car and have been experiencing some strange symptoms while driving. The car starts no matter how cold it was in Chicago this winter BUT after a few miles/10 minutes of driving the issue starts. As I approach or stop it begins to idol/rev up a few times and then die UNLESS I throw it into neutral. When I first start driving this is not an issue but without failure it starts to act up. Parking in the city = guaranteed to die at least twice in the process. This 1994 Topaz did sit unused or started most of the past 5 years.
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We have a 1994 Grand Marquis. Sometimes when driving the check engine light comes on and suddenly she doesn't want to accelerate very fast at all. If you do try to hit the gas, it sounds like the engine speeds up but there is no change in acceleration. It is also hard to get to/over 50mph. If you pull over and rev the engine a few times (slowly) there is an audible click from somewhere inside the engine. It will happen a few times and then the car seems fine. Inevitably the issue will come back a some miles down the road.It doesn't get driven every day and so far we have not had the light come on when we are near anyone that can read the error. Also, it resets and is not on if you turn the car on and off, even if the problem persists. It only comes on while driving (though it will stay on if put into park and left running). Oh, and possibly related, it seems that the air that is put out form the defroster is very damp when this happens (sometimes).
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The problem I'm having is with a 1994 mercury sable 3.8Let me start off with the things I've fixed, water pump, thermostat, radiator, complete head job done profesionally, and fan is straight wired to run on high all the time.
Now the interesting part. The car immediately overheard when the AC is turned on and only when it's on. It only overheats when your moving, not when your in park or in stopped traffic. What the heck is going on with it? All fluids are changed regularly and full. i unplugged the temp gauge sensor when running and it did not drop the needle does this mean it's bad?
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A week ago, driving home, the tech started to drop quickly to zero then recover, like the ignition was turned off and then back on. I was able to make it home. The car was due a tune up. I replaced the crank position sensor (OEM), replaced sparkplugs (Autolite Iridium), air filter, fuel filter, no luck. I ohmed the coil packs, secondary resistance showed good, replaced the ignition control module (aftermarket). After this, engine would stall after it was at temp, could restart, once put in gear it would stall, but I could go in reverse and drive home backwards.
Reinstalled original OEM ignition control module. Towed to GM Dealership, mechanic said fuel pump was bad, ignition wires needed replaced, one injector ohmed bad. I took car home, replaced fuel pump (OEM), ignition wires (OEM), no luck. Removed plenum, found pcv valve clogged, and hose kinked, replaced both, ohmed all 6 injectors, 5 injectors read 12.3 ohms, 1 injector was 11.6. Replaced all 6 injectors, (Napa), plenum gasket, still same problem.
GM dealership said computer said no data, they though perhaps ignition control module was bad, but I don't think so. I hooked up my Actron shorting plug, reads code 12 which means no faults, no other codes. I noticed EGR valve has a lot of carbon in the hole, thought about changing it, but I'm really not sure where to go now. The car is a 1994 Chevy Lumina with 230,000 miles, spent about $500 the last week doing brakes, and trying to fix this engine. Where to go from here.
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This morning I went to go to work, started to back out of the drive, and the transmission locked up. So I go to put it in first gear, let off the clutch, and the engine bogs down like its in 5th gear. I then decided I will just push it back in the drive, so I put it in neutral, let off the clutch, and its still in a gear while in neutral. Last night it drove fine before parking it, and then when waking up its broke. What could be wrong?
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1994 Mercury Villager, driving about 10 miles to work this morning I noticed the temp gauge sitting just under the H at about the 8.5ish mile mark. All driving is on city streets from 25-35mph. When I noticed the temp I turned on the heater hoping to assist with bringing the temperature down. The air coming out was mostly cold occasionally pushing out slightly warm for a few seconds.
I got to work and checked the hoses for a leak, squeezing both the upper and lower hoses they felt empty. I added about 1-2 cups of water to the radiator and it would take no more. Started the car up and the supply hose firmed up while the return hose still felt empty. Left it like that until the end of my shift.
Started the car up and checked for any leaks, all fluids appeared to me to be topped off and I could see no leaks. Started to make the trip home and at about the 7 mile mark the temp gauge drifted out of normal. Turned on the heater and the air came out cold. About a mile later I pulled over and shut the engine off for 15-20 minutes. Started it back up and it was sitting in the normal range again, but only for about a half mile and then it started going back up. I finally got it home with the needle between normal and H, maybe closer to H than that. Opened the hood and checked for any leaks. Noticed some anti freeze had come up through the cap on the reservoir. Checked and it was cracked open around the top. The two hoses on the other hand had pressure and were fairly firm/squishy.
Just checked the oil and around the cap on the valve cover and and the oil just looks a little old. (was told by a friend to look for chocolate milk color).
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When the car is idle it makes a loud noise,also it revs like 1500 and accelerates on its own. What the problem could be? 1994 mercury cougar 3.8 ....
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I have a 94 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, (3.1L V6 GM3100 engine). When I start the engine it idles very rough and usually stalls if I put it in gear. Eventually once it warms up I can drive it, but when I do drive it's extremely sluggish on accelerations and acts like its about to die. At constant speeds it runs mostly ok. We figured it was a vacuum leak, but we've tried every test we can think of to find it and talked to a couple mechanics and tried their tests and it passed all of them. Supposing it isn't a vacuum leak, then what it might be?
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The windows in my car, a 1997 Cougar, have recently started fogging up inside. It only started doing this for the past week week and a half. I've checked the carpets and they're all dry. My car is the only one in the parking lot with fogged up windows. What do I do?
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I have an 04 Accord EXV6 with 237K miles. I have recently replaced shock absorber assemblies and all 6 motor mounts / transmission mounts, which resolved most of the loud "clunking" noises. However, I now have more of a "rattle" sound which I hear when one of three things happens...First, when the engine is started (typically when the engine is cold). Secondly, when shifting between park, reverse, and drive (also, more common when engine is cold). Lastly, when driving over rough roads or potholes at slow speed. The sound is the same in each of the 3 conditions, and appears to be coming from the right side. It doesn't seem to me that any bushings, control arms. etc. would be the cause since the same sound is heard during startup or gear shifting while the car is sitting still.
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I have a 2000 mercury cougar 2.5 liter. I bought the car without doing much research. now that i have the car did research and found out all the great problems that this car has. My transmission started to make a clunk clunk noise inside and it started to slip. At first it would go on all gears. then very rapidly started to slip in all gears. In matter of hours went from being good to being crap. i had to accelerate the car to 3000rpm or higher to make the car start moving. So i bought a transmission from a junkyard. I install it and did not work. The car did not move on any direction. I pull it out and look at it and found the small shaft that goes from the torque converter to the gear body was broken. I end up getting another transmission from the junkyard. I check it and everything looked good. I install it and got everything back together and that work on reverse but no forward. To get it on reverse I had to accelerate the car to 3000rpm. I being told that if I change the solenoid inside the transmission might fix the problem. It could be the transmission module that is burned out.
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