When I drove my 1952 Mercury and checked the speed with a speedometer app on my smartphone it seemed to be about 8-10 mph off... When it says 50 it's really about 40 mph. What would cause this? I know the tires are the correct size - not sure if that would make it read inaccurately.
View 9 RepliesSome guy I know was driving his 99 Mercury Sable Le about 30 mph when the speedometer suddenly died. Why did the speedometer suddenly die? The car continued to run albeit a bit sluggishly. He then stopped and turned off the ignition. He had been driving the car for only 5 minutes and the heat gauge was at the normal midpoint where it remained for almost an hour before declining. Why did the heat gauge take so long to decline? There also is a precedent to this puzzle. A couple weeks ago, he was driving the car 55 mph when the speedometer fluctuated wildly from 0 to 55. He stopped and after 10 minutes resumed driving without a hitch. Now he's had the 30 mph speedometer problem. In neither instance did the engine repair light appear. What's going on with the speedometer and the heat gauge? Where are those Magliozzi brothers when you need them?
View 4 Repliesmy mercury sable had a leak in the lower intake manifold, so I got on it and finished it last saturday, on monday I was on my way home when I stopped to turn on my road and my speedometer just stopped working, it dropped to 0mph, what can I do to fix it?
View 3 RepliesWhat could be ready to go south and what kind of money?
View 7 RepliesIt appears electrical. With it running and this first symptom usually guarantees that it will stall. You go from park to reverse or drive the speedometer needle will begin pulsating. I have notice if this is not happening it won't happen. Next standing still but in drive or reverse if you turn the heater, radio, lights or the AC pump kicks on. Boom the car stall and almost act like the key switch was turned off then back on. It also has happened while moving but it does not stall but all of the dash light pop on as if you just turn the car on.
View 3 RepliesAlthough it starts most of the time, about two times a week it will act as though it's going to and won't. We had it in a shop for about 3 weeks and the mechanic said it started every time for him. When I got it back, within a few days it would not start. I try after about an hour and it starts. He ran diagnostic tests and nothing showed up. I want to give this car to my teenage granddaughter and I can't have this problem.
View 10 RepliesGetting slight vibration when traveling at about 60 to 65 mph. Tires are almost new and had them rebalanced about 2000 miles ago. Shocks are less than a year old. Wondering if it is a wheel balance problem or possibly an alignment problem.
View 6 RepliesHow the HVAC system on the big Merc and Crown Vic are controlled. One answer says it's vacuum, another says it's electrical, another says electronic via the BCM. Which is correct? Does it have an electric servo to move the flapper door(s) like the Taurus I'm familiar with? Even the BCM has to have something to tell to move the flapper doors.
In the car I'm looking at, the lines into and out of the evaporator are cold when A/C is selected and the compressor clicks in. That makes me think the issue is with air direction. All I have to do is figure out why.
I recently acquired a 2003 Mercury Sable from a friend and there is a problem with the air conditioning. The car has digital controls. I select the Max AC button, turn the temperature all the way down (60) an the fan all the way up, but it only blows warm air. I can hear and see the AC compressor cycling fairly quickly. The clutch (I think) engages for about one second and it will reengage after about 5 seconds, but again, it only says engaged for about one second.
What could be the problem? I've read the AC system might not have enough pressure and needs to be recharged. Or... the orifice tube is clogged, bad AC pressure switch, or the actuator that closes the heater door might be disconnected.
How quickly should a properly functions AC compressor cycle? The car was not driven much over the past year or two as it was my friend's grandfathers. I may end up taking it to a shop but I don't want to get ripped off. How should I approach this?
So my engine light came on a few months ago. Shortly after white smoke came out of the tailpipe and it smelked like gas. Hooked the truck to a code reader and it was showing codes for spark plugs misfireing and 02 sensor. So my husband had someone change a few sparkplugs and a coil pack. They start it up after that and still doing the same thing. The guy checks the oil and says getvrid of this thing cuz your motor Is blown. Now I couldbt believe that because there was no knocking and the engine sounded fine. Anyway we get it home and leave it. A few days later we try to start it and it wont start. Then the battery starts dying out.
I take the battery to be tested and it needed to be charged but wasn't bad. So we jump the truck and it starts but won't stay running. Someone looks at it and says you have gas in your oil its your headgasket. Unwilling to accept that I have someone look at it. He gets it running and seems to burn all that gas out because eventually the oil doesn't smell of gas and the smoke was going away. So I decide its worth taking it to a shop and hope its something minor. Mechanic calls me says I know what it is. You need a fuel pump, your regulators are sticking...new fuel pump everything will be fine. My truck still won't start and its doing the same thing. If you jump it it will start then stall. They said its running so rich the gas is coming out the tailpipe. So again they know what it is the ecm. They try a used one and it doesn't take. Now I think they don't know. I tow my truck out of there. Try and jump it and nothing. No turn over.
Have a 2000 grand marquis that will not start after it gets warmed up. Recently had two occasions where after driving for about half hour and it's shut off, it will not start. Cranks good, but will not start. After it "cools down" it will start. Have had it to my mechanic and the dealership. They can't find anything??? They say it has to get worse before they can make it better. They don't want to start throwing parts like fuel pumps at it.
View 4 RepliesI have a Villager that sometimes it turns over and starts, after driving I and shut it off it won't turn over.New battery, Relays ok,terminals good and I have 12 volts @ solenoid.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 Mercury Sable wagon that is SOHC. Recently the air conditioning stopped working. Took it to a mechanic and he right away found a puncture in the A/C manifold assembly line. I bought the part, gave it to him and he changed it. From there to the next day the A/C was blowing ICE cold until 5 minutes into driving the next day LOUD clanking started happening and it started to smell. Took it back to the mechanic and he says I have to replace the condenser, a/c compressor and drier because the compressor seized. Now my question is, would I really have to replace the condenser? I thought those only needed to be replaced when in an accident? I'm trying to avoid spending over $600 to replace a bunch of things I don't need to replace.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1989 mercury tracer. The starter was just replaced and the the car started and ran fine for 3 days. Then when the car was switched on but not running after about 5 minutes, the car started itself, without touching or moving the key. Now whenever it is switched to the on position the starter goes on, and never goes off. The last time I drove it before this, after it ran for about an hour, I think the starter may have gone on, when I was a few minutes from parking it, because it started to make a lot of noise. the next day when I was checking it is when the starter engaged and started the motor with the key on but the car not running.
View 15 RepliesGot a 2002 mercury Sable.. Always stalls out at lights.. Won't idle will stall if you don't give it gas... Also gas pedal cable broke and a spring is broke too.. What might be wrong with engine.
View 2 RepliesWe purchased a CPO 2011 Mercury Mariner Premium in October 2013. The first time this incident occurred was when we had the car about 2 hours. What happens is after driving for a while at a high-rate (usually about 60mph or higher), I gradually slow down as I get off of the freeway and start heading towards our house. Once I get into the subdivision, as I am coaxing, the car will lurch when it is at about 20mph. This also happens if I am on the toll road and then slow down to pay the toll then somewhere around there or when I stop for my turn, it will lurch. I took the car back to the dealer within the first week and the mechanic and I drove the car for a while and of course, it didn't happen. He said there was no way for him to know what was happening unless it happened when he was in the car. I was actually put off because I asked if we should keep driving or take it back to the shop and he said "well, you know I don't get paid for test drives".
Anyway, they checked to see if there was an update on a module or something? He said there was (again, said he didn't know if it was related to what I was experiencing). It is still happening. We previously had a 2009 Ford Escape and got pretty good gas mileage. That car was totaled (fortunately no one was injured...my newest teen driver lol), and we had hoped to get as good gas mileage with this Mariner but no. Also, in December (2 months after we got the car) the "check engine" light came one. I scheduled it for service for the following Monday (it was Friday) and later that day, the car kept dying. We had to have it towed in. They repaired that problem and we hoped that it would solve this other issue, but it did not.
Is it possible for the roof of a 1996 Mercury Cougar to buckle or crease from a rear end accident that has caused frame damage but no damage to the quarter panels? Bumper looks fine but a frame is off on Mash and Sway.
View 10 RepliesI stated my problem incorrectly in a previous post. 99 Grand Marquis. The transmission won't UP shift unless you release the gas pedal. Check engine light not on, no OBD codes. Changed the transmission fluid and filter. Fluid level OK.
View 7 RepliesI recently acquired a family car and have been experiencing some strange symptoms while driving. The car starts no matter how cold it was in Chicago this winter BUT after a few miles/10 minutes of driving the issue starts. As I approach or stop it begins to idol/rev up a few times and then die UNLESS I throw it into neutral. When I first start driving this is not an issue but without failure it starts to act up. Parking in the city = guaranteed to die at least twice in the process. This 1994 Topaz did sit unused or started most of the past 5 years.
View 2 Repliesi have a 2001 mercury sable what im getting is its will not start but starts on occasion like today it started fine this morning did errands before work drove it turned it off short period and then started just fine and then drove to work after work it did not want to start tried every thing check engine light is not on and has not come on im am getting stumped i had to leave it in the parking lot at my work so my question is what could make it do this where it starts on occasion and then when sitting for a period of time will not start it cranks but just does not start
View 2 RepliesI have a '99 Mercury Sable with the 3.0 24 Valve DOHC V6. The car occasionally will not start. It only happens after the car has been driven and warmed up, shut off, and then an attempted restart. This problem has occurred in all sorts of temps. Sometimes it will start within 30 minutes, sometimes it takes overnight. But it will start. I have already replaced the fuel pump relay. Is the fuel pump needing to be replaced (b/c it is failing slowly), or is this problem located somewhere else?
View 12 Replies