Mercury - Mountaineer :: 1999 V8 Power Loss / Backfire Under Acceleration
Jan 3, 2016
I have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L V8. It just recently began acting up. After warming up the engine goes through heavy power loss and inability to climb ANY hill. Usually cannot get above 30-35. I just recently replaced plugs and wires for a tune up and a faulty coil pack (approximately 5-6 weeks ago) causing a misfire on 8. Today in troubleshooting I attempted the "Backyard Mechanic" trick of unplugging the MAF sensor and took it down the road, no change at all in acceleration issues or on idle, truck runs the same. Unable to spot any exhaust or vacuum leaks or issues, recently cleaned MAF housing and changed Air Filter as well. All of these issues arose after a heavy ice storm, do not know if this had any impact or was just bad timing.
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My girlfriends son and friend were driving my girlfriends 05 mountaineer when all of a sudden they lost power to windows, gas gauge, radio and map lights. After doing some research, fuse # 17 is blown and keeps blowing when trying to change. I believe it has to do with Battery Saver Relay. All other fuses are fine. Multiple websites says to start disconnection everything running on that fuse.
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I own a 1988 Camaro Iroc-Z with a 5.7 350 TPI motor. I was driving the car onto I-95 at a speed of 65 when I heard a loud boom under my car, and pulled over to see what had happened. I couldn't see what happened, so I drove the car slowly to a friends garage to find the exhaust pipe from the converter back to the muffler had split and blew apart. I took my car to another shop to repair the pipe, but when I left the shop after the repair, I accellerated to about 40 mile per hour, I get another loud backfire and loss of power. The pipe is still intact, but I cannot figure out what is causing the backfire. My friend from the first garage says it is a failing fuel pump. I never heard of such a thing to be honest.I am at a loss and I have to correct the issue soon, as this is my only car to drive.
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I have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer with 315,000 miles and pleased to say it’s a great car. Although in recent years during hot days the A/C doesn't blow cold at lower speeds or in traffic. It didn't do this when it was new say 200,000 miles. I checked the coolant charge at it remains fine no leaks, I think at at some point my mechanic did a conversion to the new refrigerant R something. What can I do to keep the A/C blowing cold at lower rpms? I have to add that it will also start blowing warm while driving down the interstate as well.
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We discovered that our 99 mercury Mountaineer had bad rotors. last night I hooked up a trailer and was going to work with a friend move a couch when I heard a loud grinding sound. I turned around and determined it was coming from the wheel. I purchased a new set of pads and started to change the pads. In the process I found a broken sway bar connector. I changed this as well. It still felt bad and there was a sound when I braked.
I took it to pep boys for a free brake inspection. They pointed out that the rotors needed to be replaced. I did not let them do it because I can not afford that right now. The car is a secondary not a daily driver. My wife says we shouldn't drive it at all. I say we can still drive it and expect I will have to replace the brake pads sooner than normal and replace the rotors when we can, later. My wife insists we will do more damage if we drive it as it is. I say what's the difference we need to replace the rotors anyway.
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I own a 2000 7.3 6 speed with 175,000 miles. I just bought it less than a month ago and it is my first diesel.
About a week ago I stepped on the gas and it just had nothing. I have a TS 6 position chip that I unplugged as soon as I noticed the loss in power. When I first bought the truck it was incredibly fast and now it has nothing to it at all. I have to have it higher in the RPM's to go up hills (especially when its not warmed up). If I push the pedal down it will sound the same, boost will get to about 14 (without chip) and the truck doesn't let out any smoke but it just doesnt have any power at all. I recently towed another vehicle on a trailer and it really struggled with it, more than I thought a diesel should.
When the chip was in, the truck would let out black smoke even after I noticed the loss in power. That made me think that the engine was getting enough fuel. I thought there could be a boost leak somewhere but it still builds 14 psi. However, I do not feel boost kick in at all! When I first got the truck it would only build around 14-15 stock but it felt a hell of a lot faster and I could feel when boost would really kick in. I took off my intake and looked at the turbo and the fins are in great shape and there is little to no play.
What the problem could be? I don't have very much money to start dumping parts into the truck and Im not sure what to do. I guess my questions would be:
1) Is it a boost leak, fuel problem, or something else?
2) Could a gelled filter give me these problems?
3) What should I do and where should I start?
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A little background first on my 1999 Ford F350 7.3. A few months ago I noticed i had fuel in my coolant which lead me to a cracked injector cup. I replaced all 8 cups and since I had it apart, and I bought the truck used and didn't know what had been serviced, I replaced the injector o-rings, glow plugs, valve cover gaskets, and valve cover gasket wiring harnesses. Got it all back together and had been running great.
About a week ago I was parked with engine running and the stereo suddenly turned off. A few minutes later I turned the truck off and turned it back on about 10 minutes later and it wouldn't start. Batteries appeared dead so I jumped it and made it home. Took both batteries down to AutoZone and since they were under warranty got two new ones. Figured out my alternator was bad and not charging my batteries so I ordered a new one.
Up to this point truck has been running fine. Truck had sat in my driveway for the week while waiting for the alternator. While I was out of town my father in law went to use the truck and noticed it wouldn't start. He hooked some jumper cables up and got the truck started. He said as he drove off the truck had no power and smoke was pouring out the exhaust.
I charged the batteries and installed the new alternator. Truck starts great and seems to be idling normal. When I took it for a test drive it has no power when accelerating and black smoke pours out the exhaust. The truck will barely make it up any type of incline.
I thought maybe it was the injectors not firing. Wiring harnesses are plugged in and do not appear to be damaged. I did not remove the valve covers yet as it's not difficult but time consuming and I figured since I just replaced all of it that it should be ok. I did a buzz test and all injectors passed. I get no trouble codes or check engine light.
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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On the way home today upon medium acceleration I heard a pop kinda like a backfire ......now black smoke pours out on acceleration.no much in line of power either. Hoping I haven't screwed the motor ...
6.0 ltr turbo diesel 2004 f-350 super duty crew cab 4x4 ....
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So my engine light came on a few months ago. Shortly after white smoke came out of the tailpipe and it smelked like gas. Hooked the truck to a code reader and it was showing codes for spark plugs misfireing and 02 sensor. So my husband had someone change a few sparkplugs and a coil pack. They start it up after that and still doing the same thing. The guy checks the oil and says getvrid of this thing cuz your motor Is blown. Now I couldbt believe that because there was no knocking and the engine sounded fine. Anyway we get it home and leave it. A few days later we try to start it and it wont start. Then the battery starts dying out.
I take the battery to be tested and it needed to be charged but wasn't bad. So we jump the truck and it starts but won't stay running. Someone looks at it and says you have gas in your oil its your headgasket. Unwilling to accept that I have someone look at it. He gets it running and seems to burn all that gas out because eventually the oil doesn't smell of gas and the smoke was going away. So I decide its worth taking it to a shop and hope its something minor. Mechanic calls me says I know what it is. You need a fuel pump, your regulators are sticking...new fuel pump everything will be fine. My truck still won't start and its doing the same thing. If you jump it it will start then stall. They said its running so rich the gas is coming out the tailpipe. So again they know what it is the ecm. They try a used one and it doesn't take. Now I think they don't know. I tow my truck out of there. Try and jump it and nothing. No turn over.
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This first started happening about a year ago. started the car and it seemed fine to put it in gear to drive stepped on the gas and there was no power. the car moved forward slowly and felt like the engine was skipping and catching and then it would die. took it to the shop and it started right up first try for them. they drove it and it was fine. ever since then, it happens at random times on and off. I'm not sure if its bad fuel or something it just doesn't make sense to me.
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I have a 1997 Mercurey Mountaineer 5.0. In the morning it has no spark. If I disconnect the negative battery cable for 45 minutes or so and reconnect it, then it has spark and starts and will start and run perfectly every time all day. When it sits overhight, no spark. Same story every day.
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2002 Merc Mountaineer, 135K miles: I've been taking my car to the local town tire shop for years for my regularly scheduled maintenace. Just the usual oil changes, tire rotations, etc. If they saw some minor adjustments needed, they would just take care of it. About 2 years ago, when the economy tanked, they started hitting you with "The Form" - a checklist of all the recommendations needed for your car. For the past 3 oil changes, they said your brake fluid is black and needs to be flushed. Never heard of this so I always declined. Last week I dropped the car off for an oil change and planned to pick it up later that afternoon. I got the call about 2 hours later, and you know when you get a call before you expect, they always have found something wrong. This time it was "the brake fluid is really, really black" and needs to be flushed. I caved in and said OK do it and it was one of those XX.99 prices. Is this a needed maintenance or did I get flushed?
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Recently found with the cold snap on the east coast that my vehicle wasn't getting heat to the passenger compartment. I changed my thermostat and added a gallon of 50/50 antifreeze to the radiator coolant container. What the next step I should try?
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What would be the cause of a thumping noise coming from the right rear (pasenger side)side of the SUV. As I speed up is gets louder and faster. Check the tire it looks ok. Didn't check the other side of it.
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I have a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L V8. Recently it has developed a squeak in one of the pulley wheels. I think it is the middle one but it may be the alternator. My question is can I change these pulleys or do I even need to? My mechanic said its nothing to worry about but I am of the opinion that bad news does not get better with age. A squeak indicates that something is not right.
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A family member said that the front ball bearings are bad. This is what is going on; when I am driving and release the gas pedal and/or brake pedal, it jerks. When I am turning, left or right, to park in a parking space, it sounds and feels like the tire is going to break (when turning right to park, right tire; turning in left, left tire). I don't want to get taken advantage of when I go to a mechanic.
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I recently got my oil changed & the auto body shop told me that my coolant is leaking and that I needed to fix it ($800) I took my car to private mechanic and he said I was simply missing a cap, replaced it & that the issue would be resolved. After driving it for a few weeks I can tell there is still a problem, I hear a hissing noise, on the passenger side that appears only while accelerating & after I turn the car off (for about 5 seconds). Also, after I turn off the heat I hear a loud gush of air for a few seconds. The car is slower to accelerate these days.
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On my 2005 Merc Mountaineer AWD, I've had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced, crankshaft sensor, ECM relay for the fuel pump, starter, and spark plugs replaced, but to no avail. Car starts when it wants to, but when it doesn't, it'll usually take three to ten minutes of cranking on and off before it fires up. Ford dealership and second repair shop confirmed no fuel pressure to the fuel pump when the vehicle doesn't want to start and recommended a new fuel pump. Problem is, I've already paid the first repair shop for that same service and its gone back to them three times. Could this be electrical as the first shop is now claiming or are multiple mechanics missing something? Second shop replaced the ECM relay out of caution, but the problem persists.
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My parents have a 2007 Mercury Mountaineer, 100,845 miles. They change oil like a religion. It has under the hood ticking that increases and decreases with RPM. The ticking (tickity-tickity) sounds like when there is low oil. People have said,"You better put oil in there..."The oil is full. I can't tell if the sound is coming from inside the engine, or if something on the engine might be loose that is causing the ticking as the engine RPM changes. From what I can remember from auto shop in the 80's...it kind of sounds like valves/lifters.
Also, it has a strange road noise that I think is coming from the tires. It sounds and sort of feels like riding on knobby off road tires. I can put it in neutral and turn off the engine, and the noise remains and decreases as the speed does, so it is not from the engine.
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The instrument cluster in my 2005 Mountaineer has been randomly "failing" for about 2 months. By "failing", I mean the gauges will go to zero and bounce, the dash lights will go on and off, and the radio will go out. The car will continue driving normally. Headlights stay on, windows work, cruise works, interior lights work. This random event lasts about 4 seconds. It may do it again within minutes, or not again for the day. Sometimes, when I open the car door to get in (keys not in ignition), I will notice the gauges are bouncing at the zero mark. I took it to the shop, but of course it didn't do it there. They checked the alternator and battery. Battery is old, but checked out. A few weeks later, complete Alternator failure. Replaced the battery and alternator and I hoped that would solve the dash issue, but it did not. I've had it to the dealership, and to an independent, and their not sure what's up with it. The code readers give no insight.
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