Mercury Mountaineer :: 1999 - AC Doesn't Blow Cold At Lower Speeds Or In Traffic
May 9, 2011
I have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer with 315,000 miles and pleased to say it’s a great car. Although in recent years during hot days the A/C doesn't blow cold at lower speeds or in traffic. It didn't do this when it was new say 200,000 miles. I checked the coolant charge at it remains fine no leaks, I think at at some point my mechanic did a conversion to the new refrigerant R something. What can I do to keep the A/C blowing cold at lower rpms? I have to add that it will also start blowing warm while driving down the interstate as well.
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I have a 94 ford Taurus all of a sudden my ac doesn't blow cold and my heat doesn't blow hot. Also every now and again I hear a sound like an alarm clock coming from passenger side??
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My a/c is not blowing cold. I checked the system and I went to the a/c shop, they recharged the system. Compressor starts and then it becomes tricky. On other Passat I checked, all a/c pipes get cold right away and stay cold as long as the a/c works. On this vehicle, all pipes become cold for 1-2 seconds after starting a/c. Then pipes shown in red gradually get back to room temperature, while only blue section remains VERY cold.
Apparently, the limit between hot and cold is, on the left pipe, the valve that is used to recharge the system.
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A few weeks ago, I bought a new condenser, compressor, evaporator, expansion valve, ac line for my 2010, 200000 mile Prius and had them installed by a dealership. They weren't too happy about my independent purchase of parts , but they did the job.. After a few days, there was no longer cold air. The dealership is 1000 miles from where I live. They are willing to start over again, for free, and see where the leak is but I can't travel to there for awhile, and, already the heat is oppressive in the middle of the day. I asked the local dealership if they would run a test of the system which will be a bit expensive, and they agreed. But, they cannot guarantee that the test will be conclusive. After almost 3000 dollars spent on this, I really do not know where to go from here.
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I have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L V8. It just recently began acting up. After warming up the engine goes through heavy power loss and inability to climb ANY hill. Usually cannot get above 30-35. I just recently replaced plugs and wires for a tune up and a faulty coil pack (approximately 5-6 weeks ago) causing a misfire on 8. Today in troubleshooting I attempted the "Backyard Mechanic" trick of unplugging the MAF sensor and took it down the road, no change at all in acceleration issues or on idle, truck runs the same. Unable to spot any exhaust or vacuum leaks or issues, recently cleaned MAF housing and changed Air Filter as well. All of these issues arose after a heavy ice storm, do not know if this had any impact or was just bad timing.
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So, I purchased a 2004 Subaru forester at the in of 2013, from a private seller. When I turn on the a/c the air is warm, I thought maybe the refrigerant so low, so I check the level and it is good, the a/c compressor clutch engages, but warm air still comes out of the vents. I am asking what else could cause the a/c to blow warm air?
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I have a 2009 f150 fx4 it will not blow cold air or heat on any setting. I have replaced the resistor and it stopped working again if i smack the black box the resistor is in it will work again. My question is where is the blower motor and how hard of a job is it to change. I just ordered the motor.
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We discovered that our 99 mercury Mountaineer had bad rotors. last night I hooked up a trailer and was going to work with a friend move a couch when I heard a loud grinding sound. I turned around and determined it was coming from the wheel. I purchased a new set of pads and started to change the pads. In the process I found a broken sway bar connector. I changed this as well. It still felt bad and there was a sound when I braked.
I took it to pep boys for a free brake inspection. They pointed out that the rotors needed to be replaced. I did not let them do it because I can not afford that right now. The car is a secondary not a daily driver. My wife says we shouldn't drive it at all. I say we can still drive it and expect I will have to replace the brake pads sooner than normal and replace the rotors when we can, later. My wife insists we will do more damage if we drive it as it is. I say what's the difference we need to replace the rotors anyway.
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So i just bought my lexus es350 2007 and I just realized that my driver's side doesn't blow cold air unlike the passenger's side i tried to google it and then i believe as i read on here its the blender door.
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I have an 06 subaru forester with a little over 130k miles on it. The AC has now become intermittent and when running doesn't blow super cold air. I had it recharged but that didn't fix the problem. What happens is that it will run fine for like 15-20 minutes or if not hot. The clutch will start by attaching very firmly but then suddenly for no reason will disengage. It is not slipping the belt at all. I dont think that it is a matter of too much air gap because when it grabs it does so very firmly. Also when they were charging it i noticed that the for a moment it was kicking on and off rapidly and then he did something that looked as though he might have released some and it stayed more constant?
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When sitting in traffic the idle decreases normally, the lights dim somewhat, the blowers slow a bit, the digital clock will begin to "quiver or flicker" and the car will shut off. It will start right back up. I have a new battery and have a reconditioned alternator (about 2 years ago.) I have had to the mechanic shop and they tell me it is not the alternator. Had an electronic ignition added in 2010 (obviously not factory with the original car) to the car and had that turned off a couple of weeks ago, which seemed to give it new life. Then it turned really cold again and have noticed the flickering and the feeling that the car wants to die when sitting in traffic. What could be wrong with the car? One time when the car died it set the clock back to 12:00.
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'99 Exp. My AC blows cold most of the time when I first start the car, after awhile it begins to blow hot (heater hot). If I mess with the switches for awhile it will blow cold again at least for a little while. It appears to work fine at highway speeds, but if I stop for a light, it starts to blow hot again as soon as I take off. You can hear a flap close (or open) sometimes when you move the switches. I have read several post concerning the blend door, but I don't know how to check to see if this is the problem. According to my manual, I have to take apart the dash to get to the blend door. Is that correct? I would hate to go through all of that only to find out it is something else.
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So my engine light came on a few months ago. Shortly after white smoke came out of the tailpipe and it smelked like gas. Hooked the truck to a code reader and it was showing codes for spark plugs misfireing and 02 sensor. So my husband had someone change a few sparkplugs and a coil pack. They start it up after that and still doing the same thing. The guy checks the oil and says getvrid of this thing cuz your motor Is blown. Now I couldbt believe that because there was no knocking and the engine sounded fine. Anyway we get it home and leave it. A few days later we try to start it and it wont start. Then the battery starts dying out.
I take the battery to be tested and it needed to be charged but wasn't bad. So we jump the truck and it starts but won't stay running. Someone looks at it and says you have gas in your oil its your headgasket. Unwilling to accept that I have someone look at it. He gets it running and seems to burn all that gas out because eventually the oil doesn't smell of gas and the smoke was going away. So I decide its worth taking it to a shop and hope its something minor. Mechanic calls me says I know what it is. You need a fuel pump, your regulators are sticking...new fuel pump everything will be fine. My truck still won't start and its doing the same thing. If you jump it it will start then stall. They said its running so rich the gas is coming out the tailpipe. So again they know what it is the ecm. They try a used one and it doesn't take. Now I think they don't know. I tow my truck out of there. Try and jump it and nothing. No turn over.
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I have a 1999 Mercury Tracer with a 2.0 engine. 149,000 miles on the engine. Here is the trouble, it overheats at low driving speeds. My temp stays normal at idle in the driveway, normal at speeds of 35/45/55 or more. After about 10-15 minutes of driving around 25-30MPH though, the temp climbs steadily and approaches the red line. I checked my oil level and coolant level. Both of them appear to be fine. I have not noticed any leaks from the water pump area and cannot see any coolant in my driveway.
Could it be the thermostat is stuck closed? Air bubble in my coolant?
I have NOT pressure tested it yet, but I will be doing that this evening.
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I have a 1997 Mercurey Mountaineer 5.0. In the morning it has no spark. If I disconnect the negative battery cable for 45 minutes or so and reconnect it, then it has spark and starts and will start and run perfectly every time all day. When it sits overhight, no spark. Same story every day.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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2002 Merc Mountaineer, 135K miles: I've been taking my car to the local town tire shop for years for my regularly scheduled maintenace. Just the usual oil changes, tire rotations, etc. If they saw some minor adjustments needed, they would just take care of it. About 2 years ago, when the economy tanked, they started hitting you with "The Form" - a checklist of all the recommendations needed for your car. For the past 3 oil changes, they said your brake fluid is black and needs to be flushed. Never heard of this so I always declined. Last week I dropped the car off for an oil change and planned to pick it up later that afternoon. I got the call about 2 hours later, and you know when you get a call before you expect, they always have found something wrong. This time it was "the brake fluid is really, really black" and needs to be flushed. I caved in and said OK do it and it was one of those XX.99 prices. Is this a needed maintenance or did I get flushed?
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Recently found with the cold snap on the east coast that my vehicle wasn't getting heat to the passenger compartment. I changed my thermostat and added a gallon of 50/50 antifreeze to the radiator coolant container. What the next step I should try?
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What would be the cause of a thumping noise coming from the right rear (pasenger side)side of the SUV. As I speed up is gets louder and faster. Check the tire it looks ok. Didn't check the other side of it.
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I have a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L V8. Recently it has developed a squeak in one of the pulley wheels. I think it is the middle one but it may be the alternator. My question is can I change these pulleys or do I even need to? My mechanic said its nothing to worry about but I am of the opinion that bad news does not get better with age. A squeak indicates that something is not right.
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A family member said that the front ball bearings are bad. This is what is going on; when I am driving and release the gas pedal and/or brake pedal, it jerks. When I am turning, left or right, to park in a parking space, it sounds and feels like the tire is going to break (when turning right to park, right tire; turning in left, left tire). I don't want to get taken advantage of when I go to a mechanic.
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