Mercury - Monteray :: 2004 - Suddenly Loses Power While Driving
Jan 16, 2013
My mercury Monteray 2004 model, suddenly loses power while driving. This has happened both on the freeway and on the local roads. I then have some how driven it to the shoulder. After stopping for couple of minutes when I restart the car it works and I have been able to drive it. I have taken it 3 times to the dealer and he has not been able to identify the problem. I am extremely scared of driving the vehicle. We even had flight recorder from the dealer on the vehicle and recorded the incident 3 to 4 times and still the dealer has not been able to figure out what the issue is. They say that they have tried several times and have not been able to recreate the issue. They say that they have tried to recreate the issue with a computer attached so they can record the issue when it occurs. But apparently they have never been able to recreate the issue. Other wise the van is in excellent condition. What could be the issue? We have not been able to use the van for over 6 months and do not know what to do with it.
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Description of Problem: 1999 mercury cougar 2.5L V6 automatic trans: I was driving down the road and suddenly lost power. The engine was still running but sounded a little rough so i turned it off. then it wouldn't start. After having it parked for a couple months i started looking ant it and notice that the starter is spinning the flexplate but the harmonic balance isn't turning. It does turn by hand with a socket. After talking to a mechanic i was told a used motor would run. He said i broke the crank or timing chain? I thought if it was the timing chain the harmonic balancer would still turn, he didn't agree. and i thought it was unlikely that the crank would just break driving down the road. What it could be? or how i can narrow it down. If the flexplate or bolts broke off would that cause my problem?
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Today leaving work my 2009 Mazda Tribute suddenly lost all acceleration after pulling out of the parking lot. Didn't die but was running like it was about to. Pressing the gas pedal had no effect at all. When I turned the car off and started it again, it did start -- with trouble but it started. It ran OK for a few miles but suddenly lost acceleration again. Same thing. The car ran but the gas pedal had no effect. Shutting off and restarting got it going. In the 30 mile trip home it did it a total of 3 times. Each time shutting off and restarting. When I was able to accelerate, it seemed to accelerate OK, but at the same time felt weak and .... laggy. That last part could just be in my head though. Just wondering where to start to fix this.
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1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, 183000 miles. Car loses all power, randomly. Then starts up in about 3 seconds.
The following repairs have been done: crank sensor, cam sensor, idle control valve, ignition switch, all ground wires checked. There are no computer codes generated. This has been going on for over a year. Has been checked by dealer and three other mechanics.
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I was driving my Sonata this morning to work as usual. It was a wet morning but not raining. I hit a pothole (which I've hit before) going 35-40 mph. About 1-2 minutes later I was driving about 30-35 mph when I heard a click, lost power and then everything came back on. I believe during this "power loss" that I couldn't accelerate since I remember the rpm going down but I know that I took my foot off of the accelerator when this happened. I kept driving to work and about 2-3 minutes later while coasting down a hill at 35-45 mph. It happened really fast twice in a row.
Each time there was a click, the lights would dim or shut off completely (not sure since it happens so fast), the check engine light would flash, and I believe the radio turned off. Since it happened so fast (click, shut off, and back on) I didn't get to see if I could keep driving (accelerate) or if power steering was gone. I am guessing that they would be gone with my limited knowledge of what I was experiencing. I was able to drive 8 minutes to work without it happening again. I popped the hood looking for a loose connection around the battery but nothing was popping out at me. My car has 117,000 miles and has regular maintenance done. Any ways I could diagnose it further? Can O'reilleys check the code that flashed on and off if it isn't on anymore?
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I have a 2000 Dakota 5.9 truck that has all of a sudden started to idle rough, loses power over 3000rpm or any kind of reasonable acceleration , with a big sucking sound from the throttle body ( no leaks), seems like it is not getting fuel. Someone mentioned it maybe the "MAP" sensor.
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Driving down the road today and all of a sudden the car loses power, starts vibrating and the Check VSC and Check Engine lights came on. I pulled off the highway and got the car stopped and engine shut off. I let it sit for about 5 minutes and started it up and all warning lights went off and I was able to drive the car home with no adverse effects. Seems to be running normal now. Searched the archives and saw numerous posts about a loose gas cap, but this was something far more serious.
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I have a 2001 Mercury Sable with 114k miles. Just bought it and it ran fine for the most part until one day while coming home from work. It was still running but lost a lot of power and wouldn't go fast at all. I took it to my mechanic and he told me that this car has 3 converters on the exhaust system. First of all, I think having 3 is overkill and secondly, I am wondering why these things are so expensive. The one up front that mounts to my manifold is $350 just for the part. The one in the back can be bypassed (legally) but why did they make this system so complex and what are my options at this point? If I found a Sable that was being parted out, could I use the converters from that? Would it have to be the same year?
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While I was driving my car suddenly was losing power.I tried to hit the "gas" pedal harder and it didn't react.It stayed on the same gear and after 2-3 seconds it was ok. After 10 minutes it happened again but this time I couldn't do anything. I thought it was the transmission problem so I went into manual mode to shift it down. It didn't work at all - I was shifting down but didn't have power so I had to stop. I stopped put in P turn engine on and everything came back to normal.It's worth mentioning that one time time I had to pull over and I didn't turn the car off. After couple minutes the car started to vibrate and died. I turned on and everything was ok. Fuel filter or is it something else?
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The last couple of days with the temps in the 50's, my 2000 F550 with a 7.3, will start normally and idle fine. When I try to drive it, I get less than a quarter mile and it just looses power and will die.
If I flutter the pedal, sometimes it will keep running, very poorly. And when it does this, it is putting out blue smoke. After it does this, it will run fine. Just like nothing is wrong.
What do I look for, or is this normal. I have had the truck since last October and this is the first time it has acted like this.
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My 3.5 intrigue seems to stumble while driving it. It feels as it the engine is stumbling or loses power for less than a second and it will do this a few times in a row and will be fine for awhile and then repeat itself.
This can happen while cruising, slow acceleration or at a stop light. I don't really notice it under harder acceleration. When it does happen i do notice that the rpm's drop a very slight bit.
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Jeep runs fine for days and then it will have a bad day. Loses power for a minute or two and then revs back up. If you stay on the gas it acts like it wants to stall something makes a loud banging noise under the jeep and then it takes off only to do the same thing in 2nd gear 3rd gear etc. Would o2 sensors try to shut it down? Throttle position sensor?
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While driving my lights flash like a strobe light and I can see this at night. The. The car loses electrical power for 1 sec and then all okay. In the morning when I start the car I get ESP errors whilst idling, I then turn the car off and try to start it again and everything is completely dead!
When connecting jumper cables then trying again it works, the. I don't have a problem for about 3 days the. The same thing happens. Battery is brand new, had it at the dealers and errors are intermittent electrical errors but doesn't say where.
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5.0L V-8, Electronic Fuel Injection, 79,000 miles, 2 WD, 4 speed manual. I'm the original owner.
If I drive it 4-5 miles on secondary streets (25-40 MPH) it shuts off without warning after 10 minutes and will not restart without a 20-30 minute wait. If I drive it 2-3 miles and park it for a couple of minutes it will not restart without waiting 20-30 minutes. Checked engine water temp gauge and it is normal.
The local mechanics found no spark when it failed at their garage. They replaced the ignition module on distributor. This did not fix the problem. In their second attempt they replaced the coil. Still the same problems persists and the mechanics are stumped.
It's like something in ignition package heats up after 10 minutes and either sticks open causing no spark or closes shorting out the spark if that is possible. What is causing this and how to fix it.
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I have a 1998 Honda Civic LX that was converted from automatic to 5 speed. It hesitates while I drive, only sometimes. Normally it does it when I am pulling off from a stopped position or when turning the corner and then accelerating. I will have my foot on the gas, but it won't gain speed unless I hold in the clutch and rev up the engine then it will pick up speed and go fine. Then sometimes it also hiccups while driving without accelerating, I can feel the car jerk a few times and start to loose power.
I will need to down shift to third, or most often 2nd gear and rev it again to gain power and to pick back up speed. Things done to it since i bought it only a few months ago by the person (who is a mechanic) I bought it from: oil change, fuel filter changed, Lucas gas treatment added (by me), new exhaust system installed, starter replaced. I am nervous that it may be rear-ended, or t-boned in heavy traffic. Should i have the fuel filter checked?
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My Solara is running horribly. Its acting like the fuel pump or regulator is acting up as it loses power while driving and pumping the pedal usually does nothing. Its so bad that I cant drive it since top speed is about 10mph. If I just slightly touch the gas while driving I can get up to speed a little. It stalls when idling often too.
One thing I notice is if I stop driving for a while (with engine running) sometimes I can then drive away and the engine seems almost normal for 1-2 mins with lots of power. When the engine is cold it usually drives for 2 mins before these problems start.
This is a 2005 Solara. 4cyl 2AZFE gas engine - automatic - all stock - roughly 100,000 miles on the clock.
Its giving 2 codes: P0172 and P2196
I have looked up these codes and from reading I thought to try replacing the MAF sensor - no difference.
It feels like I'm driving a car with a bad carburetor again - really bogs out and laggy and sometimes even sounds like its backfiring slightly.
A bit of history:
- a few months ago I got the P0031 code so I replaced the upstream o2 sensor and all was good for a month or so.
- then about a month ago I got the P0136 code so I replaced the downstream o2 but it was starting to run badly before I could install and when I replaced it there was no change.
- last week I was surprised to see codes P0113, 172, 300, 301, 302, 303, and 136 but found that the battery terminal voltage was 10.5v so I replaced battery and those codes do not come back now.
- I'm thinking that due to the bad battery maybe the o2 sensors were not a problem? The upstream replacement made no difference (though it was running fine-just the CEL came on), and the downstream replacement made no difference (runs badly before and after).
My guess is fuel pressure, regulator, or injectors but its just getting too expensive to try.
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My 2000 Toyota Corolla, automatic, loses power when I decelerate after driving for a short distance when I am entering the freeway and trying to accelerate on the ramp and then into traffic. The car never dies or turns off, but loses power and "coasts"; as I coast along and try to get out of the traffic, I press the accelerator pedal almost to the floor and within 5-10 seconds the car will roar to life and accelerate like it's getting all the power it needs. That's usually the end of it for that day...however, there is often some hesitation as I continue driving. This doesn't happen all the time, but almost always when it's been outside all day and the temperature has been at freezing or below...usually when my car has sat all day while I'm at work. My mechanic hasn't had time to look at it yet but has suggested perhaps a bad switch of some kind or maybe a dirty switch. Also, this may be unrelated, but often before this happens the brake light will sometimes come on and stay on...even though the brake isn't on, nor has it been on while parked. This never has happened in the mornings after my car has been in the garage all night.
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This happened twice this month and each time was after driving and then turning car off to go into a restaurant to grab food real quick. Start car up back out, put car in drive and before getting out of lot loss of power followed by car stalling and only battery indicator comes on. Car starts right back up and seems to run fine. No CEL.....? I'm assuming I cannot scan car if no cel is on. I was thinking cam position sensor or fuel pump. I'm about ~1100 mi over for oil change which I am getting Monday.
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1998 discovery. Replaced fuel pump, crank shaft sensor, battery is good, had tune -up. Driving on highway and car just loses engine power, still have radio, lights, etc. Pull over and start it right back up. Drive about 15 minutes more and it happens again. Starts again. Then it does it again, but now won't start. Clicking sound in dash on passenger side. I leave it sit for 2 days. Starts right up, then rpms start revving then stops and dies. I have had every diagnostic known run, no codes coming up. I have had local mechanic keep it for days to drive it. He is also at a loss. I am REALLY tired of replacing random parts to no avail. Not to mention the $$ I have spent.
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My manual 98 Honda civic hatchback has 435,000 miles. But for the past 5 months, it has had a reoccurring problem: it loses power at unpredictable times while I'm driving. The gas stops responding and the check engine and battery lights come on. Have to pull over, turn the car off and usually have to wait on the side of the road 5 minutes before it will start again. Lately, it can take as long as 15 minutes. Sometimes, it will restart immediately or after only two minutes.
So far, trying to get at this problem, the car has gotten: new battery, new alternator, new spark plugs, new coil, new distributer, new ignition switch, diagnostic testing (that indicated the coil [replaced] and the catalytic converter). There does not seem to be any consistent environment that goes along with the car turning off while driving. It happens regardless of how full the gas tank is and regardless of the weather.It's pretty bad to be going 70 on the highway and suddenly have to throw on the flashers and pull over... especially when there is no shoulder because of winter weather. What this is? Or is the car just old and tired?
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