Mercury - Montego :: Cruise Control On And Engaged Brake Acts Like Engine Is Off At 70 Mph
Oct 20, 2012
My 2005 Mercury Montego has a weird issue with the cruise control. I have already taken it to a Ford dealer once. They claimed the switch on the brake pedal was the issue. It isn't.
At 70 mph, with cruise control OFF, take foot off accelerator and push on brake pedal. Works great.
At 70 mph, with cruise control On and engaged, the brake acts like the engine is off. It is very hard to push. It is like the engine is OFF and the vacuum assist is gone. Press really hard, and the car will slow down. Jab the brake once first (hard), then apply brakes, and it is fine. Push the cancel button on the steering wheel, and all is well. The few times I have looked, the tachometer has not moved. Car has CVT.
I bought this car new, and know it didn't always do this. And certainly shouldn't. A panic stop is scarier than it already would have been. Car has around 62000 miles on it.
Mechanic wrote that he observed the issue in a test dive and tested it following repair and it now works. I don't get this at all.
View 19 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2013 Avalon Hybrid and am having trouble while using the cruise control. The "sensor needs cleaning" goes off although the sensor has been cleaned several times. Also, the sensor sometimes doesn't register a vehicle in front of me. The Avalon has been looked over by the dealer (several times), the sensor was replaced but the problem persists. Because it works periodically, it's difficult to diagnose a problem. Also, the PCS warning goes off periodically. Not sure if that's a related problem. It has gone off while driving through an intersection with traffic sensors (not consistently).
View 5 Replies
Experienced a rough shift (accelerating or decelerating) in 2005 - 2007 ford / mercury 500/Montego/Fusion/Milan with the aisin 6 speed transmission? What is the source of the trouble and has Ford acknowledged a problem?
View 2 Replies
My 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
View 10 Replies
The 12v battery is 3 1/2 years old.
I rebuilt the HV battery in May 2015. I replaced 3 modules and took the pack through 3 charge/discharge cycles using Hybrid Automotive grid charger and simple discharger. I also cleaned the cooling fan.
All was fine for a month or so. Then I got the trouble lights but the obdlink I had wouldn't show the codes. I noticed a decrease in mileage and a slight hesitation upon acceleration from a stop.
I finally got the mini vci and a win xp laptop to find the codes:
P3000
P0A82
C1310
After maybe a week or so, the ICE wouldn't start and, being busy, I parked it for a while. About a month later, I pulled codes:
P0AA6 with detail codes 526 and 613
P3000 with detail code 123
P0A82 with no detail codes but it indicates "hybrid battery pack cooling fan 1 performance/stuck off.
I connected the grid charger and the HV fan engaged, as it should. I cleared codes and took a drive, while monitoring with Techstream. I watched the fan modes climb to 6, during driving and idling, over about a half hour period. Not sure if this means anything, but I've read that people can hear the fan from the driver's seat when it's running at 3 or 4- I forget which. Well, at 3, or maybe 4, I couldn't hear it. Even standing at the rear door, with my ear against the vent. Though, there was ICE and parking lot noise to contend with. Once it got to 6, I could hear it easily.
Battery health, at that time: With fan at 6, temp of batt tb1 through tb3 was 51.6 c, 56.5 c, 50.4 c.
Battery blocks voltage ranged from 16.05 to 16.15. Internal resistance ranged from .024 to .026 ohms.
Out of necessity, I've been driving this car again, for months now. The lights came back and the codes were still P3000 with detail code 123, P0A82 with the addition of C1310. I don't see a detail code in the same place but there is a field that says "detailed freeze DTC 156". I assume this may be a detail or sub code. Nothing has been preventing me from starting the car. But months ago there had been 2 occasions when, after having driven several miles and parked for a short time, then taking the freeway home, the car would idle high going up an overpass. On these occasions, the MFD shows a low SOC with only one purple bar. The first time this happened, it took around 10 miles before the SOC would creep up. The second time, I had it on cruise control and, while ascending a grade, the car jerked violently and acted as if I were flooring and letting off the gas in quick succession, about 4 times. I disengaged cruise control and took hills more slowly. The high idle up the hills backed off as the battery SOC increased. This time the SOC started in increase within a few minutes, as I would expect normally. I imagine that the electric motor was turning off and on, when the car was jerking, due to a low SOC.
These symptoms cleared up in a few days, apart from the hesitation on accelerating from a stop, and I've been driving it ever since. A few weeks ago, I noticed the car had major difficulty accelerating. I'll floor it and it barely moves, taking several seconds longer than it should to get up to speed. The SOC is stuck at 1 purple bar. I got the car home and turned it off. When I turned it back on, the SOC increased very quickly, only once. I now can't replicate that. The SOC simply will not go above one bar.
Another odd thing. When I'm creeping down the road, at say, 25mph, and I let off the throttle, the car just keeps moving as if cruise control is engaged.
View 11 Replies
What the fix is for my 2007 Mercury Montego Premier? When the car is in drive and the car is either stopped or at a slow speed such as at a stop light or pulling into a parking space, the car lurches forward. It is almost as if the computer is telling the car to step on the gas. I am concerned for my 16 year old daughter to be driving the car and have the car suddenly accelerate and get into a collision.
View 4 Replies
Yeah i have a 2005 mecury montego all wheel drive car. In the last year, sometimes the gas gauge will drop from a quarter tank to nothing sometimes on a sharp right turn. Once I have ran out of gas because the message says i have for instance, 30 miles to empty. So my fiance got the book that came with car and there was actual reset instructions which he did. But it didnt work. Called my dealership and the mechanic said he had never heard of this, although its in the car manual. so whats your thoughts on this strange behavior? Or is because i am a true nascar fan and always want to go left.....
View 1 Replies
I have a 2004 Saturn Ion and when the cruise control is engaged it makes a short ratcheting sound if I go up an incline. It sounds like it happens in front of the stick shift and it doesn't affect the rpm's or the power of the engine, it's just a weird noise. It's done that for years and hasn't increased or changed, I'm just wondering what causes it, I've never heard a car make a sound like that before.
View 1 Replies
My 2005 Toyota Prius gave me confidence. Here's what happened:
I was driving on the Interstate with the cruise control set at 70 mph. Seeing traffic stopped ahead, I applied the brakes for a moment to slow, then released the brake to coast. Much to my surprise, the cruise control was still engaged and the car accelerated. I applied the brakes again, manually turned off the cruise control, then was able to coast. I drove for another half-hour without incident until the following afternoon when I drove again, experiencing a much more serious problem.
I had just turned left, and was straightening the wheels when I heard, and felt, a loud "snap" in the steering wheel, immediately upon which I knew the steering wheel was disconnected and I could no longer steer the car. Very, very fortunately, and only because I was already nearly stopped, I was able to stop the vehicle without incident.
However, I immediately recognized that, had this happened in almost any other scenario than being nearly parked, the outcome would have been markedly different. The steering wheel is completely loose, not controlling anything, and all the many steering wheel controls are equally disconnected, including the driver's air bag (SRS), something that I would have needed, but wouldn't have worked, had I crashed into oncoming traffic or an Interstate median.
View 19 Replies
The "Cruise Main" switch on my 2003 Honda Accord will not stay engaged. When I push it, the Cuise Main lights up in the dash board and I can operate cruise control, but when I release the Cruise Main switch it doesn't stay on. I've tried electrical tape to hold the switch in (holds for limited time), and am thinking about bypassing the switch altogether. I don't mind if the Cruise Main is on all the time. I know I could replace the switch, but am looking for a zero cost solution.
View 1 Replies
I like to drive with cruise control engaged but I find I can't do that in my new (well, 182K 2005 6.0L) Excursion. It's holds speed just fine, but if I top a rise and start going downhill - basically when no effort needed to maintain speed - it starts chugging and shaking the whole truck real bad. It feels and sounds bad, can't be good for it (or so I've assumed in my head). It's a real staccato feeling as if fuel is being applied less than a second, stopped, reapplied. Is this something unique to the diesel (my first diesel), an issue with the cruise control (vacuum, electronic?), or what?
View 9 Replies
I have a 2009 Mercury Milan. Ever since I have had the car I have had a problem with the cruise control suddenly turning off. It is erratic and will happen usually once on a two hour trip on the highway day or night. And it completely turns off - no RESUME. It never puts up any codes that the dealer can see. The dealer will not do anything because they cannot duplicate the problem. They tried once on a short 5 mile drive but they would have to take it on the highway and drive it for at least one half hour to an hour. They said there were no similar problems reported through Mercury. They initially suggested that perhaps I was accidentally hitting the brake pedal but I have been acutely aware of where my feet are when it happens and it is not me. And anyway this would not explain the fact that it turns off completely. My warranty is going to run out in several months and I would like to get this fixed before it does.
View 8 Replies
My college son's 2014 Charger V6 has developed three issues since he purchased it used in late May. The cruise control has stopped working and the anti lock brake and traction control lights are constantly on. Any possible cause?
View 15 Replies
I have an 02 f150 5.4 and since I got it it hasn't had cruse control. I went to a local ford dealership and they ran the vin and didn't find any recall on it. Under the hood on the master cylinder there is brake fluid coming out of the brake control switch. Would I have to do something with the harness too?
View 9 Replies
No cruise control, ABS, Brake and skid light on (Prius 2010).
View 12 Replies
So, I installed a new radio lately (Poineer 4100 NEX- nice radio, BTW). Yesterday, I ran a couple video wires through the firewall for new backup cameras. Anyway, after I was done, my brake lights and cruise control didn't work.
After a little Googling, I decided it my have something to do with the electrical switch on the brake pedal. So, I wiggled the brake switch a bit and the brake lights are working again. I must have bumped or bent something while I was running wires.
Was/is my switch out of alignment or is this a sign my switch may be going out. Should I replace the switch?
View 2 Replies
We started having problems first with the car dying at stops, and having to be restarted. We had the oxygen sensor cleaned, and it stopped that problem. Then my ABS lights came on, and my cruise control stopped working. When the car was cold and I tried to take off (forward or reverse) the rpms would not go above 1000, and the car would only move like it was idling. I read in a closed discussion on this forum that it was the stop light switch under the brake pedals so we got one and changed it out. Same problems.
So we thought we had a bad one, so we exchanged it, and the tech at the Auto Parts store said "Maybe you have a fuse out." We changed the stop light switch again, same problem. We found a blown fuse marked "stop light." It is a $2.70 fuse, 10 amps. We put it in, and the brake lights worked. I planned to put it in the shop the next day, having read that it could be the air inlet sensor, the throttle body needing cleaning, the transmission, the transmission fluid....anyway, I had to go to the store this morning, and the ABS light was out, the cruise control was working, and the car no longer ran in "limp mode."
Before you do anything else, change the fuse!
View 1 Replies
Why is there a sensor on the brake master cylinder? Most other cars and trucks I've seen have tied the cruise control into the brake light (and clutch interlock if Manual transmission.) switch so that when the pedal is depressed, the cruise control cuts out.
In the Ex, could I tap the brake pedal enough that the brake lights come on yet I don't trigger the pressure sensor in the master cylinder to cut the cruise control?
View 5 Replies
I just discovered my cruise won't "SET" (light goes out after 1/2 second) anymore after having the brake light switch done yesterday.
View 2 Replies
I have to press Cancel before I can get my cruise control to work. I had a problem about a year ago where my cruise control wasn't working, and found out that a blown brake light fuse was the problem. Now I turn my CC on and the "Cruise" light comes on, I then press the set button, and nothing. I then press the cancel button and then the set button and then the "Set" light comes on.
View 2 Replies
My previous cars with adaptive cruise control didn't do this, but when the vehicle brakes itself, there is a very loud click. I'm assuming it's normal operation, but figured I'd ask here anyways.
View 1 Replies
