Mercury - Mariner :: 2005 - Creaking / Crunching Noise When Accelerate
Aug 12, 2014
I've been trying to chase down a creaking noise from what I think is the front passenger side for about a month now -- it happens when I accelerate and the weight of the car (2005 mercury mariner) shifts. It's mostly a creak but almost a knocking/crunching sound that seems to correspond to when I give it gas.
I recently got my sway bar links and tie rod ends replaced, so I could have sworn it was a bushing on the control arm. Spraying silicone grease doesn't do anything, and last night I noticed what I think is the same noise happen when I shift from park to drive.
Could this be a worn motor mount? I'd rather replace that on my own than have to bring it in and get a new control arm installed so I can get a realignment.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2005 Mercury Mariner, 136K miles, 2.3L 4-cyl engine. I am experiencing a noise that is barely audible at 50mph, but increases at around 60-65mph. It is an intermittent "rrrrrr......rrrrrr.....rrrrrrr" (don't you hate people that describe things like this?) and I can sometimes feel a vibration on the gas pedal and also on the drivers side floorboard. And, maybe related, maybe not, every now and again it is a little "stickier" than it used to be when shifting into park.
View 2 Replies
I'm the original owner of a 2005 Mariner (3.0L V-6, 114K miles). We live in Central TX, so we are just starting to experience cooler weather (40's - 50's at night, 60's - 70's daytime). At this time of year and through the winter, this Mariner develops an annoying rough idle. It is more like a strong vibration when in Drive or Reverse, not really a miss in the engine. Increasing the idle speed with the accelerator pedal works, and it does get somewhat better as the engine gets to normal operating temp, however if the day is cold (30's or 40's) it doesn't get better.
I've changed the plugs, changed the IAC valve, and cleaned the MAF sensor a couple of times, with no improvement. We almost exclusively use Exxon or Chevron gas, which should have good fuel-injector cleaning additives, so I sort of doubt the injectors are at fault. I've had a local mechanic check to see if any codes exist, but nothing shows up. This has gone on for 2 or 3 years, but it was not like this when the car was newer.
View 12 Replies
Back in November I traded my sports car in for a more practical 2005 Mariner with 50K miles on it. I had noticed a somewhat delayed start during the test drive (at least compared to what I'm used to) and assumed it was the battery. Car drove great and I loved it otherwise so I made the purchase and went on my way. A couple weeks passed and I noticed the issue seemed to be getting worse and the engine took a couple more turns before firing up. I wasn't surprised as most battery issues surface when the cold weather kicks in. I took it to the dealer and they found a leaky battery and replaced it and again I went on my way. Unfortunately the issue was not resolved with the new battery. I didn't give it much thought thinking it was just the way the vehicle ran until the weather started getting progressively colder and my delayed start became even more prolonged. So back to the service department I go and wait patiently in the lobby with my book, hoping for good news. When they come back to me 2 hrs later they tell me that something is drawing too much power from my battery causing it to drain (alternator is fine) and they need to power everything down for a few hours and investigate the fuses in hopes of finding the culprit to the power drain. Later on I called for a progress check and they're still stumped and would like to keep the vehicle overnight and see if they can figure out the issue after it sits for a night since (as I relayed) the slow starts are primarily in the morning after the car has sat. From what I gathered, the evidence of drain "disappeared" after a while during their little power down session.
Consequently, I have them investigating 2 other issues and I'm wondering if any of them may be related. One- I am having issues depressing the shift button to get the vehicle out of park (also more of a problem in the morning during the first start). Two- on occasion my key sticks in the lock cylinder when I shut off the engine and try to pull the key out. I spent some time online researching all of the above and it seems that there could be some issue with the ignition switch or a bad solenoid somewhere in the circuit... then again, maybe not? The only other bits of info I can offer since owning the vehicle are that I was having some issue with the rear hatch door. I kept getting the "door ajar" light after using the back hatch.. but I'm pretty sure that was due to my own stupidity because the main door release and the top window release are right next to each other and I may have pressed the wrong one- slamming the back hatch hard took care of the light. The other thing is I followed the manual instructions and deactivated the seat belt alarms because I can't stand the seat belt reminder beeping at me when I forget my seatbelt.
View 7 Replies
We purchased a CPO 2011 Mercury Mariner Premium in October 2013. The first time this incident occurred was when we had the car about 2 hours. What happens is after driving for a while at a high-rate (usually about 60mph or higher), I gradually slow down as I get off of the freeway and start heading towards our house. Once I get into the subdivision, as I am coaxing, the car will lurch when it is at about 20mph. This also happens if I am on the toll road and then slow down to pay the toll then somewhere around there or when I stop for my turn, it will lurch. I took the car back to the dealer within the first week and the mechanic and I drove the car for a while and of course, it didn't happen. He said there was no way for him to know what was happening unless it happened when he was in the car. I was actually put off because I asked if we should keep driving or take it back to the shop and he said "well, you know I don't get paid for test drives".
Anyway, they checked to see if there was an update on a module or something? He said there was (again, said he didn't know if it was related to what I was experiencing). It is still happening. We previously had a 2009 Ford Escape and got pretty good gas mileage. That car was totaled (fortunately no one was injured...my newest teen driver lol), and we had hoped to get as good gas mileage with this Mariner but no. Also, in December (2 months after we got the car) the "check engine" light came one. I scheduled it for service for the following Monday (it was Friday) and later that day, the car kept dying. We had to have it towed in. They repaired that problem and we hoped that it would solve this other issue, but it did not.
View 5 Replies
I recently bought a 2009 Mercury Mariner 4wd Premier from a dealership (I upgraded from a 91 Ford Tempo...)
A few weeks ago I noticed that when I'd start my car the fuel gauge would be wrong (showing 1/4 of a tank when I had 3/4). The last straw happened when the gas light came on although I had more than half a tank. I took the car back to the dealership who verified and repaired the faulty fuel sensor. The mechanic told me it is not a common repair, yet just a couple weeks later I am finding that the problem is happening again.
What are the odds that I got a faulty replacement sensor or could it be a different issue? I will take it back to the dealership once the holiday weekend is over, but I'd like some other opinions. I know replacement parts can fail, but I know it isn't all that common.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2008 Mariner that has just started making a fairly loud chirping noise from the from. It is not always there, sometimes when the car starts it doesn't always start for a minute or two.
View 3 Replies
A grinding/crunching noise recently started happening to my 2001 vw vr6 12v.seems to be coming from the front of the car but only when i accelerate. I hear it through all the gears and am a little concerned as winter is approaching.
View 1 Replies
Last week, I noticed that my PS brake light was on, even when the car was off. I did not think anything of it, and figured I could get it fixed whenever I had some spare time.....then my battery died! Even with the batter dead, the light stayed on. I pulled numerous fuses, and none worked to turn it off, so I disconnected my battery (which did the trick). I have not jumped my car yet. I thought it might be the brake switch, but since it is just ONE light, and not both, am not sure that would be the problem. To note: I have a 2010 Mercury Mariner, 37k miles, and had a UHaul hitch installed about 3 years ago. DR brake light goes on when brakes are pressed.
View 2 Replies
Have a 2005 Mercury Mariner Premier, 108k miles, 3.0L engine. Was driving last week and the ABS light came on. Then slowly the dashboard lights dimmed to black and lost electricity. All this within a couple miles of driving. Limped home and tested the battery - dead. Recharged and tested the next morning - still fully charged. Put another known good battery in and drove about an hour out and on the way home same thing happened.
I suspect the alternator, but on testing, the alternator is pushing 14.3 volts on a good battery. My fear now is the tear down necessary to change the alternator if it is not actually bad. Anything else I should look for / test before I start pulling the alternator out? Any other tests of the alternator that I can do while it's still installed?
View 7 Replies
My 2005 Chevy Aveo makes a creaking sound when I accelerate or decelerate -It seems to come from the passenger side of the car, but it's not the seat. What might cause the creaking sound?
View 3 Replies
Over the past month or so I've noticed that my 2005 Jeep Liberty Limited has started to make a creaking noise when it's a little off balance, such as driving down and uneven drive-way. I believe it's coming from the back?
View 4 Replies
Bought a 2005 FX4 recently, 107k miles, engine and transmission working smooth and quiet. Changed oil in engine, transmission, transfer case and rear axle, filter in engine and transmission, the oil I drained still looked pretty good.
At take-off or when going slowly the truck sometimes makes a really weird creaking/scratching/rattling noise. It appears to come from underneath the truck, I only can hear it when driving close to a building or taking off besides another vehicle with windows down (noise is reflected by building or other vehicle). There is no jerk, the truck drives normal but the noise is really weird (and alarming?). Where to look?
View 5 Replies
This auto has 143,000 miles on it. I recenty noticed a creaking noise from the left front when accelerating from a dead stop. The shop I have used for 15 years said that the motor mounts are deteriorating and should be replaced. I trust the guy but would like to avoid the $1,400 repair. There are no symptoms other than the ocassional noise.
What is the downside of ignoring his recommendation? What other symptoms can I expect if I delay the repair? Can this be a serious safety issue? I plan to keep the car for another two years unless I bite the dust first or the engine falls out.
View 1 Replies
My '03 Grand Marquis "shudders" when I accelerate, especially up hills. It feels like it cuts in and out momentarily, shaking backward and forward. Here is what I have had done, based on mechanics' advice: replace spark plugs, replace fuel filter, clean throttle body, clean mass airflow sensor. It still does it after all this and I am stumped.
View 4 Replies
We have a 1994 Grand Marquis. Sometimes when driving the check engine light comes on and suddenly she doesn't want to accelerate very fast at all. If you do try to hit the gas, it sounds like the engine speeds up but there is no change in acceleration. It is also hard to get to/over 50mph. If you pull over and rev the engine a few times (slowly) there is an audible click from somewhere inside the engine. It will happen a few times and then the car seems fine. Inevitably the issue will come back a some miles down the road.It doesn't get driven every day and so far we have not had the light come on when we are near anyone that can read the error. Also, it resets and is not on if you turn the car on and off, even if the problem persists. It only comes on while driving (though it will stay on if put into park and left running). Oh, and possibly related, it seems that the air that is put out form the defroster is very damp when this happens (sometimes).
View 3 Replies
I have a 2001 Mercury Cougar 2.5l v6 with 142,000 miles. If I'm in idle, you can feel it discordantly kind of jumping. Guessing it's coming from the engine. When I accelerate, normally from 35-45 mph the engine sputters and is very jerky but then accelerates as normal. I am going through gas more than before. I've replaced the spark plugs and wires and it hasn't fixed.
It runs worse when my AC is on, guessing because it's more stress on the engine. don't know if it's relevant but I have a signal on my dashboard that shows how many miles I have left to drive with the amount of gas I currently have - and it's become way off, is totally inaccurate now. I also know I need an oil change.
Don't know a whole lot about cars, but I can't afford to have my car become out of commission. What the problem would be? The last mechanic I saw said it needs a tune up, but it was expensive so I've been trying things myself first.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2003 Mercury Sable with 139,000 miles on it. A few weeks ago I had been driving on a long trip and stopped for gas. As I was exiting the gas station and went to accelerate as I pulled out, I felt a shaking and the car went out of gear. The car will start now, but pushing on the gas does absolutely nothing whether the car is in drive or reverse. I'm trying to decide to have it fixed or to sell it at this point. Is this a transmission problem, as I suspect?
View 16 Replies
93 Mercury Cougar 3.8L V6 with just over 83,000 miles
l've been trying to figure out this issue for ages, but can't seem to find the root of the issue. When driving and accelerating to 40mph, the rpms drop and GET STUCK at exactly 1000rpm. Forcing the accelerator down makes the engine bog and sputter and not go any faster. No check engine lights whatsoever.
The idle is very rough and low in park (700rpm compared to the regular 900) and very low in drive (500 compared to 650-750). When stopped in traffic for a while, it begins to shudder and shake like it wants to stall right there. Now let me run down the extensive list of parts l've thrown at it, bringing only temporary results:
Replaced catalytic converter
Replaced IAC valve
Replaced O2 sensors
Rebuilt transmission (runs great, so l've ruled that out)
Replaced 1fuel injector
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced motor mounts
Cleaned throttle body extensively
I asked a guy at a Firestone and he said that l needed a valve job. Asked another guy at another place, he said l needed a fuel system cleaning. Asked another guy under a tree, said l needed a new speed sensor. What could be the root issue? l was thinking carbon build up over 22 years maybe? Almost all 83k of those miles have been city miles...
This car is my baby, all l want is for it to be able to handle highway speeds without a hiccup. l'm keeping it and plan to see 100k hit the odometer and many more miles!
View 19 Replies
I am new to the toyota brand and the avalon. I am trying to learn as much as i can ..so my question is i want to do a tune up to my wife's car ... and I am noticing a slight wining noise coming from the car as you accelerate i remember seeing a post on that a little while back but I can't seem to find it ....
View 4 Replies
Truck is a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab, 2 wheel drive, automatic transmission. When I press down on the gas pedal and accelerate, an audible squeaking noise is made in the rear of the truck. It sounds like it is coming from somewhere near the rear axle or wheels. The sound is a high pitched metallic squeak, as if metal parts are rubbing against each other. The noise only occurs when I am accelerating. While accelerating, if i momentarily take my foot off the gas pedal, the noise stops. Also, once a constant steady speed has been reached the noise stops. Also, the truck makes the same noise when accelerating in reverse.
View 5 Replies
