When the car is idle it makes a loud noise,also it revs like 1500 and accelerates on its own. What the problem could be? 1994 mercury cougar 3.8 ....
View 12 RepliesI recently bought a 2002 Mercury Cougar with an automatic transmission. I really like it, but it seems to have some trouble shifting. If I really "punch it" it revs all the way up to about 6200 rpm before it shifts. I think this is high, but the red-zone isn't until 8000.If I don't "punch it" and I accelerate slowly it still goes up to about 4300 rpm. I talked to many of my friends and mechanics that I know and they have a lot to say (as do I). One thing they all talked about was my transmission. They told me to check my tranny fluid and make sure that it is full, not discolored, and didn't smell burnt. I did all this and everything seems okay.
Also, someone I know who is very knowledgeable about mechanical issues looked at it and he said that it doesn't smell burnt, it's a perfect color and is filled correctly. Another thing they brought up is that the car might be governed because it tops out at about 82 mph (I know that's way too fast, but I have to know what she's got.) It also only has 115,000 miles and seems very well cared for, so I think it should still have plenty of life left in it. One of the mechanics said something about a manual linkage sensor. (Mlt sensor). He said that when they steam cleaned my engine that it might have gotten wet and then when the pulled the car outside it might have froze and cracked, causing my troubles. Also, they mentioned about how if you disconnect the battery on a Ford vehicle that it will reset the computer and usually takes 1,000 miles or so for the computer to run through all the codes and realize if there is anything wrong. I do have a brand new battery and was just replaced prior to me purchasing it. My check engine light is not on and it seems to purr perfectly all the time.
My boss has a computer that we hooked up and let it run the codes and see if it would tell us anything, but it's a small personal one and he said the Ford dealers computer can dig deeper and possibly find the problem. His little hand-held computer didn't find any problems. I don't want to have to bring it to the Ford dealer and have them fix it before I know what's actually wrong so that I can save them time, and me money. I don't know if this is a problem and should be fixed.
I have a 2000 mercury cougar 2.5 liter. I bought the car without doing much research. now that i have the car did research and found out all the great problems that this car has. My transmission started to make a clunk clunk noise inside and it started to slip. At first it would go on all gears. then very rapidly started to slip in all gears. In matter of hours went from being good to being crap. i had to accelerate the car to 3000rpm or higher to make the car start moving. So i bought a transmission from a junkyard. I install it and did not work. The car did not move on any direction. I pull it out and look at it and found the small shaft that goes from the torque converter to the gear body was broken. I end up getting another transmission from the junkyard. I check it and everything looked good. I install it and got everything back together and that work on reverse but no forward. To get it on reverse I had to accelerate the car to 3000rpm. I being told that if I change the solenoid inside the transmission might fix the problem. It could be the transmission module that is burned out.
View 1 RepliesMy question is what could cause a high idle?I have a 95 Chevy pickup 4x4 with a 5.7... Recently the lower radiator hose fell came off the radiator, dumping the liquids all over the street. The motor shut down, and every time we went to start it there would be a loud whining/spinning noise. We thought that the motor seized, so we pulled the plugs, turned the motor by the crank bolt.Turned out that the starter went bad, the spindle and bendex werent catching on the flywheel.
After examining the flywheel teeth, and gapping the plugs to the recommended manufacture gap, (they werent when we pulled them), we got a new starter installed. It started right up! But it ran at a high idle, around 1500-2000 RPM. I did not have a chance to really let it warm up (it was cold and raining). Now there is a gray flexhose that is running from the air filter housing down to the exhaust manifold. If i remember correctly, it was not seated very well when I took it off. Could it be causing too much of a vacuum?
I am doing a side job and this thing has a rough idle. I put the scanner on it and pulled code 43 ESC and a ritch and lean code from the O2 sensors. I know the O2 codes are probably from running rough. It has been a while but could the knock sen be the problem or the ESC itself? I looked for the ESC by the throttle body but didn't see it. I remember what they look like but this is a late model 94 are they some where else?
View 4 RepliesIs it possible for the roof of a 1996 Mercury Cougar to buckle or crease from a rear end accident that has caused frame damage but no damage to the quarter panels? Bumper looks fine but a frame is off on Mash and Sway.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2002 Mercury Cougar and ever since i bought it (8 months ago) it is fueling up really slow. It takes about 20 mins to put 13 gallons of gas in. I have to just barely squeeze the handle to keep from the gas spurting back out. Its so slow that you can count the cents as it adds up. If i don't hold it really slow the gas comes spewing back out the neck of the gas tank, or just bubbles back out and shuts the pump off.
I thought it could be that my evap canister was plugged or the lines running from the gas tank to it, so i brought it in and they blew out all the lines with an air compressor and they said it was all clear. Its getting really frustrating standing out there at the pump for 20 mins. I really want to get this fixed before the COLD of MN winters comes!!!
'97 cougar, v6, fuel injected, occasionally cuts out at low idle. not overheating, not fuel filter. this happens most often when car is completely warmed up and in traffic or at stop lights. can keep it running by putting it in neutral and keeping rpm s up. has been happening, I m ashamed to say, for about a year. I am almost sure it is something simple, but I only know old carburated (sp?). engines. now is getting worse and happening, still intermittently, even at higher engines. I know it s dangerous and should not be driven until fixed.
View 9 RepliesSo the last week and a half my car has been making a loud noise that sounds like a loud POK when my car accelerates or slows down. I am worried that there is a loose bolt somewhere and that the noise is caused by something shifting under the forces being applied to the wheels.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1993 Mercury Cougar XR7 3.8 L V-6 with 138,000 miles that has been having overheating and coolant loss issues for the past 3 months. So far I have replaced the radiator (cracked), 2 thermostats (not opening), and the thermostat housing; which is where the mechanic said the leak was coming from. I don't have a visible leak now but it is still overheating after about 15 mins of driving it. I took it back to the same mechanic who said the sealant on the head gasket needed to be replaced.
As far as I know, there is no "sealant" ON the head gasket...the head gasket is the sealant. I took it to a different mechanic who said I have leaks in several of the coolant hoses. I can smell antifreeze every time I get out of my car, but I don't see any leaks. I am concerned I've blown the head gasket but the mechanic says they cannot test that until the hoses are fixed. Does this sound reliable? Could it be a hose issue and that's all?
I have a 2001 Mercury Cougar 2.5l v6 with 142,000 miles. If I'm in idle, you can feel it discordantly kind of jumping. Guessing it's coming from the engine. When I accelerate, normally from 35-45 mph the engine sputters and is very jerky but then accelerates as normal. I am going through gas more than before. I've replaced the spark plugs and wires and it hasn't fixed.
It runs worse when my AC is on, guessing because it's more stress on the engine. don't know if it's relevant but I have a signal on my dashboard that shows how many miles I have left to drive with the amount of gas I currently have - and it's become way off, is totally inaccurate now. I also know I need an oil change.
Don't know a whole lot about cars, but I can't afford to have my car become out of commission. What the problem would be? The last mechanic I saw said it needs a tune up, but it was expensive so I've been trying things myself first.
I recently did an oil change on my wife's 4 cylinder 2007 Toyota Camry which has about 126.5k miles so i was suggested at Autozone to use synthetic 10w30 instead of the conventional 5w20 they put at the shop when my wife gets an oil change. So i did a oil flush and did the oil change with the new synthetic 10w30 and now the Camry feels really heavy and has difficulty accelerating at first. It also makes a really loud squealing noise (like when your breaks are bad) when it first accelerates. Should I go back to conventional 5w20 even tho it has so many miles? Is there anything else wrong that i should get checked?
View 14 RepliesSo for the last few days, every now and then when I turn on the car it just revs/accelerates on its own. The rpms will be at about 2k and stay that way whether I'm in neutral or in gear. Then when I go to turn the car off and back on it again it doesn't start. It'll sound like it wants to turn but it doesn't until I let it rest for a few minutes and then it's back to normal.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 Mercury Cougar with about 145k miles.
Today I was driving and when I slowed down to come to a stop it acted as if it wanted to cut off by sputtering. As I got down to about 5-10mph the engine shut off (the radio and everything else was still running) I noticed that as I was slowing down right before it shut off, the RPM was going very low, almost down to zero.
I do have check engine, and low coolant level lights on.For the check engine there are a few codes.1. Something with the catalytic convertor2. 02 Sensors3. Transmission slippage4. I think there was something else but I forgot.
I do need new motor mounts. The oil light comes only when I am idle and after driving for a good 5-10min. I changed my oil about a month and a half ago though.The only time there is issues is upon stopping. Driving and acceleration is fine.
I have a 1990 mercury cougar its having a weird issue its like it surges when driving at higher speeds you feel a small push-pull feeling, also going up hill its like i loose throttle at about 20mph then i feather the gas for a second and it comes back and this repeats at about 40mph or when I need to pass or speed up in general i took it into my ford dealership they plugged it in told me it was the egr valve the dpfe senor and the tpi sensor which all have been replaced still having the same issue took it back in he told me it was my alternator and fuel relay switch both replaced brand new as well still having the same issue most of my family is all mechanics and there completely stumped and this didn't come on slowly i noticed it last week on the way back from work. I've also replaced spark plugs properly gaped fuel filters hell replaced the suspension air filter oil change the works and well were all at a loss of what it is?
View 17 RepliesI have a 2001 mercury cougar, every time the fuel gets to a half tank or below it stalls when going up a hill or around a curve, anytime u give it extra acceleration when it's a half tank or below it stalls and sputters, it's been in the shop for 3 months and got it out and ran good for a day now back bad I need a mechanics advice on what it could be other than fuel pump, fuel filter, o2 sensor, or plugs and wires... I've tried all of them...
View 1 RepliesI had to drive 70 miles last week the temp outside was 98. My air conditioner was blowing cold air, I parked my car for 30 minutes. When I started my car again the air would not work, no blower nothing. I was on my way to have it tested, turned it on and it is working and blowing cold air. I do not to be stuck again traveling and it stop.
View 2 Replies93 Mercury Cougar 3.8L V6 with just over 83,000 miles
l've been trying to figure out this issue for ages, but can't seem to find the root of the issue. When driving and accelerating to 40mph, the rpms drop and GET STUCK at exactly 1000rpm. Forcing the accelerator down makes the engine bog and sputter and not go any faster. No check engine lights whatsoever.
The idle is very rough and low in park (700rpm compared to the regular 900) and very low in drive (500 compared to 650-750). When stopped in traffic for a while, it begins to shudder and shake like it wants to stall right there. Now let me run down the extensive list of parts l've thrown at it, bringing only temporary results:
Replaced catalytic converter
Replaced IAC valve
Replaced O2 sensors
Rebuilt transmission (runs great, so l've ruled that out)
Replaced 1fuel injector
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced motor mounts
Cleaned throttle body extensively
I asked a guy at a Firestone and he said that l needed a valve job. Asked another guy at another place, he said l needed a fuel system cleaning. Asked another guy under a tree, said l needed a new speed sensor. What could be the root issue? l was thinking carbon build up over 22 years maybe? Almost all 83k of those miles have been city miles...
This car is my baby, all l want is for it to be able to handle highway speeds without a hiccup. l'm keeping it and plan to see 100k hit the odometer and many more miles!
The windows in my car, a 1997 Cougar, have recently started fogging up inside. It only started doing this for the past week week and a half. I've checked the carpets and they're all dry. My car is the only one in the parking lot with fogged up windows. What do I do?
View 15 RepliesI have a 1999 Mercury Cougar after it rains, I am get water on the left sided rug a lot and my tuck is wet too. How I can fix the leak and where its coming it at ...
View 9 RepliesI'm not sure whats wrong here but i think its a plugged exhaust or clogged catalytic converter but whats happening is when I drive my car is lacking power huge, sometimes ill push on the gas and it will hardly move and start chugging but if i push down more it will go. When i go on on ramps to the highway as soon as i hit 70km it starts to chug then i have to push the pedal to the floor to get going,then after a while the car will start to shake after 5-10 minutes of driving and i have to let it cool down or it will keep shaking or just go back onto city roads and it doesnt shake as bad. Once im off the highway my car will begin to shake more at 20km and 60km i have no clue why!
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