Mercury - Capri :: 1973 - Electric Radiator Fan Indicator Light Came On?
Aug 7, 2014
I have installed an auxiliary electric fan at the radiator on our 1973 Mercury Capri and it’s controlled by an adjustable thermostatic switch. Wanting to know when the fan comes on, I wired an LED indicator light to fan side of the thermostatic switch and mounted it inside the car. Mission failure.
The light comes on just from leakage through the thermostat. Ok, I figured maybe this is an LED issue. But no, a test with an incandescent bulb showed the same issue.
If the pilot light is going to glow all the time (dim at idle and brighter with revs, by the way), then it’s no good for the purpose intended. A resistor, maybe?
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Car: 1973 Mercury Capri 2.0, four speed. Lovingly restored over the past three years. The car has Ford aftermarket air conditioning, recently serviced with R-12 (past two weeks) and I have never used it until this past weekend (I bought the car and then restored it). We used it in 90 degree heat and this little car did great even in the mountains of W.Va (60 mph uphill with A/C!) But I digress. For five minutes after being turned on, the A/C cools as expected - a real champ -- no issues.
Then, it begins a cycle like this: The air starts to get progressively warmer for about 10 seconds. Then, there is a squeak, a drop in motor rpm as the A/C/ clutch engages, and it has cold air again for 20 seconds. Then the cycle again. This is the behavior whether at idle or at highway speed. It has its own two knob control panel -- not connected to the heater controls. The fan speed is on high and the "cold" knob is turned all the way cold. Turned "warmer" it does as expected - very little cold air. It seems like a thermostatic control is telling it to disengage the clutch even though it should not -- the cabin is cool but not cool enough to justify that.
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I own a 1974 Mercury Capri and I am having trouble finding a master cylinder. Where I can locate one?
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Yesterday evening I drove through a flooded area of the road, probably about 1.5 feet deep. I did not realize it was quite that deep. The water came through the floor, and probably soaked my ECU.
The engine died, but will idle very rough. I doubt I got water in the cylinders, not much at least, because the engine turned over no problem. I also have an air filter that would be difficult to get too much water into from the way it is situated.
It is putting out white smoke that smells like gas (a lot initially, now not as much), and the engine is smoking a little as well...white, gas odor...I think it is coming out around the exhaust manifold.4
It is running very rough, sounds like from 2 cylinders, and after letting it idle in the hopes of drying everything out, I noticed that the fuel gauge is at empty...it was at 3/4 earlier.
What should I start by doing?
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I have a problem with electric power steering in the Lexus GS300 2006. System indicator does not light up even in the moments after ignition, fuses are OK. Where is the power steering module ?? I looked next to the brake pedal but it is not there...
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I have a 2011 Corolla LE, about 58k miles. The latest work I did was replace the brake pads, rotate the tires and changed the oil a little over 2 weeks ago. Everything was normal so far. Yesterday I drove for about an hour, again everything was fine, but after stopping at a gas station and starting I have several indicator lights come on.
- Slip indicator, flashing
- TRAC OFF, constant
- ABS, flashing
- Electric power steering warning light, flashes but turns off after about 30 seconds.
I tried my OBD scanner with no luck, but figures since there was no Check Engine light.
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I have a 2006 Jetta TDi wagon. Only when it is cold and first start up of the day, the raditator indicator light comes on and flashes within 1 minutes of start up. I stop the car and restart. It doesn't come back on (unless it is really cold). I have only had it come on 2 times and then it doesn't come on again nor does it come on later in the day.
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What is the secondary electric fan behind the radiator for? I never see mine running.
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After about 10-15 minutes, following a cold start, this 2007 BMW X3 3.0 six does the following:
1) automatic cabin fan behaves erratically, jumping back and forth between low and high speeds;
2) cabin air does not heat;
3) electric radiator fans run on high;
4) coolant temp rises to normal, but then will suddenly jump up to full hot.
At this point, driver of course pulls over and shuts off engine. The amazing part is this: the engine can be re-started IMMEDIATELY and all of the above problems vanish instantly. Radiator fans shut off, temp returns to normal, cabin fan works normally, and cabin heat comes on. I'm thinking sticking thermostat, but why does shutting off the car momentarily fix it? Change of water pressure when coolant pump stops running?
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I have an Accent 2008 model and i have a problem with the steering of my car. Sometimes the EPS lamp indicator turns on and the electric motor stop working. I stop the engine of my car and i turn it on again and everything is ok. Is any solution or i must change the whole steering system as Hyundai said?
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For the last few weeks, it has seemed that the battery gauge on my 2002 has been half full more often than it should. I admit that I have no good science for this determination, but about half the time when I return home from work the gauge shows half full, and it returns to full after about 1 - 2 miles of driving. The car has about 122K miles on it.
Today I took a long drive through some pretty steep terrain toward the New River Gorge in WVA. Round trip it was about 750 miles. On the way home, I got an error on the console. I'm not sure what it was, but on the main display there were three boxes with writing. I didn't read them as I was pulling off to the shoulder. By the time I got there, the warning was gone. I turned the car off and restarted it. Everything looked good and I headed the remaining 10 miles home.
Once home, when I turned the car off, I heard a vibrating noise from (I think) the left side of the hood for about 5 - 10 seconds. I turned the car on again, and there is a vibrating sound, and the same turnoff problem.
Is this the final death knell of my traction battery? I have a 120K servicing due about now. I have been planning a reinvolt battery, but it is a bit of a drive away. Should I consider trailering the car down?
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I have recently purchased a 1973 dodge sportsman motorhome. I went to change the battery because the one in it was too small. After replacing the battery I have no power to anything at all and it wont even try to crank. When I put the new battery in I noticed a smaller red wire with a flat plug on one end hanging loose. Where does this go and what is it for? the new battery has full juice but I have no power to anything. No lights no radio....nothing!
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I'm stumped with my 1973 Fiat 850 Spider. This little car has a grand total of 10 fuses, 8 below the dashboard, and two in the rear where the engine is. So, it's not that complicated, right? Wrong.
So here's the story: I purchased this little car in Philly. Everything works, except after a few days, I noticed that the car battery was out. So I jump it and allow the alternator to recharge it. It runs fine for a few days until it goes dead again. It reaches the point where it's completely dead, no service light, no radio, nothing.
I figured I bought a car with an old battery. I replaced it with a new one from Walmart. It runs great for a few days until gradually no charge again. I take it to a shop to fix something else, they test the battery and they tell me it's bad, that I bought a brick. OK, bad luck, right?
I replace the Walmart battery for another one under the warranty. What can go wrong now? Well, the same symptoms appeared after a few days. By now, surely it cannot be the battery. So I know what you're thinking. My little convertible has a parasitic draw. But remember, it has only 10 fuses, no power windows, no power locks, no computer, no software, no Bluetooth...gish, it has a push-button AM radio, for crying out loud!
So I proceed to recharge the battery. I trickle charged it for 18 hours or so. The battery is now back to new. I then connected my meter in series to the negative pole to measure the amps, expecting as you would imagine a draw of at least 4 amps. Well, the little devil has a draw of only .35 amps, well below the acceptable level for a car this type (right?).
So what gives? Does the car have gremlins or parasites? Am I going crazy? Can I be so unlucky that I have had three bad batteries in a row (even from Walmart)? Am I missing something?
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I have a 73 commando and if it sits for a couple of days the glass fuel filter goes dry and I have to pump and pump the accelerator to get it to start. I guess the fuel is draining back down into the gas tank. Had a carb kit put in. Go to a electric pump?
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I had to replace the vacuum control for the heater in the dash panel. The fan worked good on all 4 speed settings but only in the defrost position due to the damaged control valve. The control valve works all position for the heater positions now. There is power at both sides of the heater fuse under the dash but no blower function. Is there a fuseable link elsewhere in the system to check. Is the fan motor only accessible to test by accessing the heater/AC under the dash on the passenger side. 1973 Crew Cab....
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My father passed down his 1973 Chevy C-10 pickup truck to me and my family. It's been our 'runner' truck for many years going to the mountains for wood, lumber from the store, garbage and yard debris...etc. Unfortunately, it recently has been starting and warming up just fine, but once it's running as I'm driving away from stops or even holding speed on the highway the power 'fades' from the engine and it lugs like it is in gear, but flooded and lurches as the engine seems to 'catch up'. I have replaced the carb(holly quadrajet), fuel pump, fuel filters, battery, fuel lines, throttle cable, distributor cap (ceramic piece too), alternator and more...we still can't get it figured out. NOW the truck won't start or turn over - have we reached the end of it's life no matter what we do? What is left to replace? I don't think we can afford much more $ to fix it. We also found that somehow water was in the gas tank, which we think was from a kid in the neighborhood messing around. Could that have made a permanent issue?
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My 2013 Prius v V with 60,000 miles just intermittently started to show 3-4 dash lights when driving: Slip, Brake, and ABS. Whenever this happens, I noticed the regenerative braking doesn't work and the traction motor refuses to turn off at a stop (like at a red light). The traction motor will turn off if I put the car in neutral. At first it happened with just those three lights, but now a fourth comes on...the LED lights indicator.
So what gives? Sometimes these symptoms last for days, and then they stop. Sometimes they stop for days, and then return. Once in a while they disappear (sometimes after a rest of a few hours) and then come back on after a short drive. Once, they persisted for days, then disappeared. A few hours later, however, I had the car parked with the power on for about an hour while talking to someone via Bluetooth (traction battery at 3/4). All of a sudden all the power to the vehicle cut off. When I turned the car back on a half hour later the symptoms came back and persisted for days.
This on again off again dance has been going on in a temperate Southern California Coastal climate (Orange County CA) and also in a hot desert climate (Coachella). It seems like a short...or maybe a problem with a brake actuator or sensor (same thing? dunno). I've researched this on the web, and couldn't find anything that matches exactly my symptoms. It seems to be related solely to the braking system, but why the LED light now? The LED doesn't come and go on it's own, it comes on in tandem with the other wheel-related lights. Very strange.
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I have a motocrap 2bbl on my 73 f-100 all stock 390 when I drop it into gear she wants to sputter and stall without warning at idle runs great but put a load on and forget it what is wrong with this thing?
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I recently bought a 2009 Mercury Mariner 4wd Premier from a dealership (I upgraded from a 91 Ford Tempo...)
A few weeks ago I noticed that when I'd start my car the fuel gauge would be wrong (showing 1/4 of a tank when I had 3/4). The last straw happened when the gas light came on although I had more than half a tank. I took the car back to the dealership who verified and repaired the faulty fuel sensor. The mechanic told me it is not a common repair, yet just a couple weeks later I am finding that the problem is happening again.
What are the odds that I got a faulty replacement sensor or could it be a different issue? I will take it back to the dealership once the holiday weekend is over, but I'd like some other opinions. I know replacement parts can fail, but I know it isn't all that common.
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My 2011 Camry LE 4-cyl has 48k miles. Today I was driving on the highway during very heavy rain. My vehicle slip indicator light came on, along with my check engine light. I stopped at Advanced Auto for a diagnostic check. They said they couldn't be sure if it was a sensor, or maybe a wiring issue.
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Dad borrowed truck and wired 7 pin trailer harness. Lights worked on truck/trailer for use but upon return the turn signals didnt work. Hazards and running and brake lights did work. Replaced TS flasher and Haz flasher. Still no signals. Pulled steering wheel and replaced turn signal cam only, not whole switch. Now no brake lights, no rear hazards or turn signals. Losing my marbles trying to follow schematic and using test light and mulit meter. All bulbs and fuses are good. Running lights and head lights working as well.
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