My 52 Mercury Heater fan is working now, but the air blowing out of it is not warm and this does not change when I moving the temp lever on the dash. Is it likely just the heater control valve or is there something else possible wrong? I'm not finding anything online about how these systems work and my shop manual doesn't give me much info.
View 15 RepliesCar: 1973 Mercury Capri 2.0, four speed. Lovingly restored over the past three years. The car has Ford aftermarket air conditioning, recently serviced with R-12 (past two weeks) and I have never used it until this past weekend (I bought the car and then restored it). We used it in 90 degree heat and this little car did great even in the mountains of W.Va (60 mph uphill with A/C!) But I digress. For five minutes after being turned on, the A/C cools as expected - a real champ -- no issues.
Then, it begins a cycle like this: The air starts to get progressively warmer for about 10 seconds. Then, there is a squeak, a drop in motor rpm as the A/C/ clutch engages, and it has cold air again for 20 seconds. Then the cycle again. This is the behavior whether at idle or at highway speed. It has its own two knob control panel -- not connected to the heater controls. The fan speed is on high and the "cold" knob is turned all the way cold. Turned "warmer" it does as expected - very little cold air. It seems like a thermostatic control is telling it to disengage the clutch even though it should not -- the cabin is cool but not cool enough to justify that.
I have a SF 2009 Limited. Since I bought it 2 years ago, I noticed the heater blows luke warm air. Not hot. It takes 20min for the cabin to reach 22degC when it's only 0 outside.
It was like that when brand new.
It has the auto temp control, so it might be playing tricks on me but I don't think so.
I am tempted to find the pipe feeding the heater radiator and insulate the pipes. Maybe the heater only gets warm liquid.
What else can I do?
I bought a white 2015 Sonata GLS with 55000 kms on it. Car works fine but really great on gas in city with AC ( 11-12 liters/100 kms ).
And my main problem is my AC/heater vents. Its nice cool day out and I wanna roll my windows up and use outdoor air (with AC off and heating knob on cool - Blue side) but still blow warmer air (the more I turn the temp knob to less cool side more warm air comes out). I went to dealership and complaint about it but they said can't duplicate problem. And I replaced cabin air filter too, but still same problem.
I don't have automatic temperature climate control option, so its all manual, red and blue setting for heat and cold. I complaint them may be my heater stuck on heating but no action taken from them..
My Ford Explorer blows warm air instead of hot air and it's getting colder and my windows get fogged up. I fixed my clicking sound behind the dash.
View 1 Replies2007 GS 350 109,500 miles. My heater was blowing cold at idle and warm when driving so I took it to dealer. To my surprise, dealer says its a blown head gasket. No other symptoms. No white smoke, no smells, no warning lights on dash, and running fine. Just had VVT gear recall done last week.
Fortunately I have Lexus extended warranty good thru 125k miles and Feb 2014. I do my own maintenance (plugs, oil changes etc). Have records for all. But have not done coolant change (due at 100k).
This problem is on my son's 2000 F-250 5.4. It's into October and my son tells me he has no heat coming out of his vents. I figure it has to be the control valve that should be in the heater hose lines. Could be jammed closed or a vacuum line has come off the pot that controls the open close cycle. We open the hood and nowhere can we see a coolant control flow valve. It is so tight and dark under all that mess of wires, intake, air conditioner lines and whatever.
Just where should we be looking for the valve. Also it could be the vacuum line is unplugged on the dash, behind the warm/cool selector. And even there is a possibility that some doofus has removed something. He bought the truck this summer. So to get us on the right path, where we start looking for the flow control valve?
My '06 GS450h has developed a fault where the heater blows cold at idle and low revs but blows warm when driving or revving the engine at a standstill. The coolant hasn't dropped at all and the car never goes above halfway on the temp gauge. Its starting to get frustrating now the cold weather has set in and temps dropping! Long journeys are ok as at high speeds it stays warm but short journeys are uncomfortable!
I just had a feel of the rad hoses and hoses that go into the matrix (engine side of bulk head) and matrix hoses feel warm (both of them), the top hose to the rad is warm but not hot and bottom hose is cold suggesting the stat hasn't opened yet. Its cold outside so getting the car up to temp is quite difficult without a long drive (rush hour at the mo).
Still I just had the car parked on the drive and cranked the heater up to max and held the accelerator for a while and super warm air blows out. The engine cuts back out as "normal operating temp" has been reached for battery mode and then the heater goes cool again! Still the bottom radiator hose is cool and top hose not massively warm. It has never overheated thus far and I drive 150miles a day back and forth to Reading from Cheltenham 4 nights a week.
Only thing I can think of is a sticky thermostat or water pump not operating sufficiently enough to circulate the water? Its getting colder and short trips where it used to blow warm air nice and quickly (within 3-5miles) are becoming unpleasant!
We got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.
View 4 RepliesI've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
View 5 RepliesI recently acquired a 2003 Mercury Sable from a friend and there is a problem with the air conditioning. The car has digital controls. I select the Max AC button, turn the temperature all the way down (60) an the fan all the way up, but it only blows warm air. I can hear and see the AC compressor cycling fairly quickly. The clutch (I think) engages for about one second and it will reengage after about 5 seconds, but again, it only says engaged for about one second.
What could be the problem? I've read the AC system might not have enough pressure and needs to be recharged. Or... the orifice tube is clogged, bad AC pressure switch, or the actuator that closes the heater door might be disconnected.
How quickly should a properly functions AC compressor cycle? The car was not driven much over the past year or two as it was my friend's grandfathers. I may end up taking it to a shop but I don't want to get ripped off. How should I approach this?
On the RNS315 is it possible to turn off the radio and operate just the Nav or the Media? It seems that if I have the radio on and then switch on the Nav, for example, the radio stays on and the only way to "silence" it is to press the Mute button.
View 9 RepliesThe blower for the a/c and heater, defrost stopped working. would work sometimes, now doesn't work at all.
View 2 RepliesI have an 01 Mercury Cougar Sport Coupe that we bought from a friend for not too much, just to use as a daily driver. It's got a lot of miles on it, but it still gets good mileage, which combined with the fact that we didn't pay much for it makes it an okay car for around town.
Here's the problem. I live in Wyoming where it's winter nine months out of the year, and the heater core is apparently blocked. I made it all through last winter with this problem, but now it's intolerable. The kids call the car "the Red Icicle". My mechanic diagnosed the problem as a blocked heater core and tells me the only solution is to replace it, which costs something like $500. I can't work on the car as everything is too jammed under the hood to get access to anything.
Do I really need to replace the heater core? The whole car isn't worth much. Is there something I can put in the cooling system that will unblock the core reliably?
1999 Mercury Villager Estate. The brake light wouldn't illuminate. Found that the brake light fuse (20A) was blown. Put another in and it blew as I was inserting it. Figure there's a short somewhere, so I've disconnected both brake/tail light units in the back, the towing light connection, and have even completely disconnect the 3 brake light switches under the dash (yes, 3.... 2 directly attached to the brake pedal and one attached to the e-brake). Still, when I insert a 20A fuse (which is what is called for), it immediately blows.
Since I've disconnected the brake light switches, it seems to me the short can't be past that on the way to the back of the vehicle. Maybe I'm wrong though. It seems the short must be either between the switches and the fuse box, or somewhere between the fuse box and the battery. Unsure if the wiring routes through any relays under the hood, but I'd think it would at least have to go through one of the relay boxes since that's what eventually gets directly connected to the battery. I've tried using my multimeter to measure the voltage and resistance on either side of the space where that fuse goes, but I'm unsure what to expect from a reading like that, so those results are inconclusive.
I have an '04 Explorer Limited and lately only blows cold air. I've read about the blend door motors but it's been too cold in MI to want to do much--so the truck sits.
When I was troubleshooting the problem I found that I'm not getting any vacuum signal to the heater valve in the coolant line. Before I contemplate removing the console & doing surgery on my dash I'd like to know for sure what position the valve should be in when heat is called for.
All the other vacuum actuators seem to be working normally and there's no disconnected hoses under the dash; and no leaks. Coolant reservoir is full.
My 2005 Freestar (not the Freestyle) a/c is working properly except that it is only blowing through the defrost. I've read other posts about it being a leaking vacuum system on other ford vehicles that cause this problem.
1) I'd like to confirm that this Freestar a/c works on a vacuum system to open the a/c duct doors.
2) If it is, where are the vacuum hoses located? I'd like to check them to see if they are connected or if they have a hole.
02 F150, 5.4 gas motor, about 338k miles. Bought this truck well used so I would have a truck when I needed one. Someone has removed the heater control valve. I've got a new one, but there is a port on the top for a vacuum line, but where this line plugs into.
View 1 RepliesI bought a 04 explorer with a bad thermostat which led to a bad head gasket, fixed that and managed to not have to buy the special tools or time it , but now that its running I don't have any heat. I have complete service records on this vehicle and there was never a complaint of the heater not working. The a/c works and the heat will adjust the a/c temp, but no heat. In trouble shooting it I found that I am not getting vacuum to call for the coolant to enter the heater core. When I apply suction to it, it will send the coolant. Even though I wasn't getting the clicking noise, I pulled the blend door actuator and it looks surprisingly good (not looking forward to putting it back in). Where to look next?
View 5 RepliesMy battery died yesterday and after I got my car jump started the check transaxle light (exclamation point) came on and my A/C stopped blowing cold air. I checked all of the fuses and they are all fine. What could be causing this?
View 4 RepliesOk, I know I have a vaccum leak. I have manual hubs now and those lines are capped. The AC is blowing through the deforst and the pump is running non stop. I have replaced the vac pump a couple of years ago and it worked fine then. any other places to look?
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