Mercedes :: Hard To Start After Driving Then Letting Sit And Cool Down For An Hour?
Oct 10, 2012
Car is driven seldom. Less than 1000 mpy. Initially, it will start on first turn of key. After driving for an hour or so and then letting the car sit and cool down for an hour or so it is very difficult to start. It seems as if pumping the gas finally works but not sure this is making it start or just constantly turning it over is the reason. One individual thinks it's ignition wires that are carbonized and need to be replaced????
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So here is a little background on my car have owned it for 1 1/2 years, never had any issues. just recently over the past month the car has trouble starting the first try after sitting for a hour or longer. I took it to the dealer for an oil change and had them check the alternator, battery, and starter. All came back perfectly fine. I also had the spark plugs, and all coil packs replaced assuming this would resolve any issues.
So after doing all of that still have the problem, I have read numerous post that seem similar but have not seen an actual answer. My car is not throwing any check engine lights or anything. Trying to avoid taking it to the dealer to have them waste my time and money. By the way my car only has 38k miles on it second owner.
So far I see it could be
CTS
MAF
Crank Sensor
etc ...
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3 months ago, my 2003 C240 Mercedes made a high pitched whine and would not accelerate more than 15 miles per hour and if I did go faster the whine got louder and higher in pitch. I took it to the local “foreign car” auto shop (I have had the car serviced there in the past) and they replaced what I believe that said was a “contact plate” something that controls the transmission is what I think I remember. Yesterday (just 3 months later) the exact same issue is occurring. Again I had it towed back to the auto shop and now they tell me the transmission is shot and they will need to replace it. They added it has nothing to do with the plate they replaced/installed 3month ago and they will give me a credit on the plate that installed 3 months ago. Are they correct?
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My jeep is having two issues. First, almost every time I start the vehicle it idles fine, but then when I start to accelerate it bogs down for 1 to 2 seconds. I will accelerate through it and after that it runs fine and doesn't do it again until the next time I start the vehicle. My second issue is that after driving for a couple of hours with the AC on, the flow of air out of the vents drops. The air is still cold to the touch just barely blowing. Once I cut the motor off for about 30 minutes it works fine again for a couple more hours. Also, when the intensity of the air coming out of the vents dies down the blower motor sounds like it is working harder to put out the little bit of air pressure.
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I own a 1986 Chevy Silverado C10. I have replaced much of the truck in the seven years i have owned it, including the engine about 35,000 miles ago. The modulator valve on the transmission became unbolted from the transmission housing a while back (the "tab" of the transmission housing actually cracked off). The truck lost power when this happened and most of the transmission fluid leaked out before i realized something was wrong , stopped and called a tow.
I replaced the modulator and secured it with a "Z" shaped clip made of roughly 10 gauge steel that bolts to the modulator and then to the frame that suspends the transmission. Then i noticed a loss of power up hill and the truck has trouble accelerating over 45-50 mph., possibly has trouble shifting into over drive "?".
I replaced the detent cable next, and changed the transmission fluid, filter, and gasket while i was at it. I have also replaced plugs and wires, and done a general tune up since then, but i still have trouble on hills and accelerating on the highway. I drive up a hill every day coming home from work and the truck slows to roughly 25mph, even if i start the hill at 45mph., and it climbs slow and seems very bogged down. Something to check before i assume the transmission needs replaced.
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03 F350 7.3PSD... A/C blows cool on max only but does not blow real hard on high.
Blower motor is loud like it is blowing but just not coming out of vents. On reg A/C blows hot, actually blows hot on all other settings.
A/C compressor is on but blows hot through vents. I am thinking blend door and or something else. Thing is I am not sure what or where to look and how do I check?
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I have a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with the 3.8 and 135,000 miles. Whenever it is hot out and the engine has been running it is hard to shift either from park or back into park. Today it completely froze on me and I had to wait for it to cool down before it would shift into park. Temp out is about 80 today.
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So I have this recurring problem where my passat will die while driving, and fail to start. Usually I know it will die because the accel. is sluggish and the power steering is dead (but no light) when i start it, but today that did not happen. It just died completely out of the blue.
When it dies, it cranks for a second, then stops and the dash screen/lights fade out. The most annoying part is that everytime, I get it towed, then it starts.
The first time it happened the dealer said nothing was wrong. It started for them fine. Kept it overnight, and was good next day. Died a month later from same thing.
Second time the dealer said the alternator and battery were bad, got both replaced. (about 6 months ago).
Today it died again, with no symptoms beforehand. Tried for a while to start it, no go. Nothing engine related worked. Auxiliary did though. Had AC / Radio / Hazards just fine, i only used hazards though.
Got it towed, and I myself went and started it right after it got off the truck, it started. Had to give it gas to get it stable, but it started. I had the dealer check it out, and they said they found 3 fault codes that they have never seen, then later told me they did not know, and didn't want to blame anything unless they were sure.
This was right in the middle of a vacation trip 2 hours from home, and I decided i should just turn back. On the way back I noticed that the AC, Cig Lighter, and Heated Seats were not working. On top of that the car felt like it would die at any moment. Almost no throttle, sounded very weak / quiet. And about 25min in the car started stuttering, like it was about to give up. I pulled into a parking lot and tried it 20min later, started completely fine. No sluggishness, but AC etc still out. After that I got it home fine.
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My 97 Celica GT runs fine , battery is solid, no fuel delivery issues, timing is good, no backfires, new air filter, but when I have been driving around for like 20 mins and park for 15-20 or so I have trouble starting up, I have to keep trying and eventually it will kick in, but last night when I got home I tested it by letting it sit for about 20 mins and tried to start no dice, tried few times, then after cooling off over night, it started right up today with no problem. I remember a mechanic that was working on it said it could be a IC chip that could be overheating, I'm also concerned that it could be an engine or ignition component that is overheating and once it cools it's easy to start.
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This morning while listening to cartalk I am stopped at a stop sign. I press on the gas to start off from stop - hear a loud bang as if I hit something. All of a sudden my engine is revving hard, whining noise but no power to drive. Luckily I had enough gradient to put the car in neutral and float it to a stop by the curb. Car does not move on Drive or Reverse but engine runs fine and revs up but no power to both axle. Where the issue is? The car is 82K miles and has driven great. where is the issue??? Axle break down/ CV joint break down/transfer case break down/ What is it?
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My 2007 Honda CR-V has started to vibrate when I am driving around 45-50 miles an hour. Seems to be in the wheels. Doesn't happen all the time. At first I thought the road was rough, but now happens more often only for brief period then drives normally. The majority of the time, it's when I take my foot off the gas to maintain or slow speed. Car dealer took it for a test drive. They told me my tire pressure was too high and took air out, but the problem persists. They checked the wheel bearings, the joints, etc.
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Have a 2009 Limited with 14,500 miles. After driving an hour at 75 MPH on interstate on a hot day, the car died. The immobilizer warning light came on, and I coasted to a stop. Waited a couple minutes, the car started right up, ran fine. Went a few miles, and car died again. This time check engine light also came on. After couple more times, car towed to dealer. No problem apparent at dealer. 4 codes were active - all HO2S Signal Stuck Lean. Dealer called Hyundai tech and were told to check gas quality and replace all ground bolts and sand paint at contact. Gas was O.K. Took for 42 mile test drive, no problem. I drove home on interstate and after an hour same thing happened. Obviously not a ground problem. Now running fine and at my local Hyundai dealer.
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Diagnosing a few dash warning lights that come on all within an one hour of driving. While driving to a family gathering and after only 5 minute into the drive a get a warning light that looks just like a car battery. A minute after that I get "Alternator Workshop". Rather than stopping on the freeway shoulder I kept driving, because my 3 month old daughter on board. I would hate someone to plow into us. Therefore, I kept driving on slow lane without problems until15 minutes later I feel this thump and the car surges for a second. I thought it was a blown tire, but the ABS & another symbol (exclamation point w/semi-circle) & Airbag system lights came on all at once.
Luckily I was near an off ramp and I exited and pulled into a shopping center. Since it was already dark out, I did notice that my all my lighting and headlight were dimmer than usual and I also noticed less power from the motor. I quickly looked at the manual to find out what all these warning symbols meant. The battery symbol means problems like be loose or broken alternator belt or faulty alternator. I am hoping all these warning light are not separate repairs, but a single problem, like a bad battery, loose or broken alternator belt that is hindering all these other functions (ABS & airbag system).
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I have an 06 Prius. I bought it with a broken/leaking transmission about 3 months ago. I drove the car home and it sat for a few months, then I drove it into my garage to start working on it a few weeks ago. I just finished up with the trans swap this evening and I went to "start" the car to get the coolant circulating/blead, and the car would not start. I get nothing, I just get a blinking red light in the shape of a car with a key in the center.
I am pretty sure this is the immobilizer symbol. What can I do to reset/fix this? This is my first prius and I have not driven this one more than 50 miles so it could be something silly that I am just not familiar with. This is what I am doing...I get in the car, put the key in the key slot, and I push the brake, then I hit the power button...I get nothing, other than the blinking light on the dash.
I went back out to the car and messed around a little bit. When I put the key in the slot I get what I described above...nothing. But if I don't put the key in the slot, and just push the power button the display comes on but I am not able to shift into any thing other than park or neutral. When I am able to power up with out the key in the slot I get a red car with an explanation point going through it at the top left of the screen.
Then at the display just below the windshield most of the lights stay lit up. What does this point towards? Why would the car not try to go into Drive or Reverse? And what's going on with my key? The only two times I have driven this car i just put the key in the slot and it turned right on and I drove away, now with the key in it will not do anything.
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I have a 2000 Camry Solara V6 with about 108K miles on it. The car has recently started to give the following problem: The car starts without any problem in the morning and runs smoothly. There is no problem while the engine is in idle mode. The problem starts when after driving for a while I shut the engine, say for filling in gas. When I try to start the engine again the engine will start, idle for a couple of seconds and then die.
The engine doesn't keep on running in idle mode. I can keep the engine running by pressing on the accelerator and keeping the rpm above 1000. Once I drive for a few feet then the engine doesn't die even if I idle at a stop light. This generally happens only after I shut the engine after having driven the car for a few miles and then start the engine again within the next 20 minutes. The battery is in good condition. Any clues on what the problem may be?
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I recently purchased a 2011 F-350 w/6.7 diesel. When I first start it & let it run say 30 seconds and take off it shifts fine from 1 to 2 but when it goes from 2-3 it hangs there a second and then finally shifts into 3rd hard. 3rd to 4th is ok but 4-5 again is a hard shift and from 5 to 6 is OK. It will do this for a while like through the neighborhood and down the road 10 miles then it is fine. Shifts beautifully when warmed up.
My local Ford dealer has a guy that is supposed to be very knowledgeable with Super Duty trucks. I have had it to him twice and he says this is normal. All shift hard until the transmission is up to operating temperature. Says the engine is very powerful and until everything is up to temperature this will happen. If so then it would be normal to let it sit and run for a while before you take off in the morning. I am getting ready to hook the truck up to my 33' camper and go on our first camping season with the trailer/truck combination and if I need to leave it sit and warm up I will.
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Twice in the past month my Honda Odyssey after driving for over an hour the RPMS go sky high and car only goes up to 5 miles an hour. The car can not go into reverse and steering is difficult. The air conditioning was on during both of these events.Upon having it towed to the Honda dealer both times, they could not find anything wrong with the car, it runs fine.They ran diagnostics both times and found nothing. The check engine light has never come on.The AC runs hot air until I put the temp as low as possible. Then I can adjust temperature. I have had all of the work done on the car at the same Honda dealership since purchase in 2005.
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I bought my Treg a on 1/16/05 only 46 days ago and have had now twice electrical failures both at while driving on freeways about 70-75 miles an hour. Every light on my treg went off for a few seconds including the MFI Radio and even the headlights. when everything went back on the xenons did their little wink. Possible 04 problem? Going to take it to my dealership on monday.
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Just replaced the starter and battery on my old but loved 4Runner. I drove it for an hour and a half last week and couldn't restart it. Just nothing - one click I think. A friend tapped on the starter and it started...but I'm not sure whether the car just cooled down at that point. Took it to the garage and they said they couldn't find anything wrong (no surprise, right?) Now I'm afraid to take longer trips.
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My wife drives a 2004 passat 4 motion 1.8 T that for a couple of days has been acting up. By acting up I mean it will turn over but won't start. When this happens and after letting the key out of the start position, the epc and cel light will stay on. After letting it sit for a while it will start.
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My 96 mercedes c280 will not start in the winter. I moved from florida to ohio and when it gets close to freezing or below my car will not start. The lights on rear view mirror (immobilizer lights) blink for 30 sec. I have to wait any where from 5-30 min. to start car depending on how cold it is, otherwise car runs great.
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