Mercedes - E320 :: 2000 - Shakes Rattle And Roll
Jun 15, 2014
Over the last 2 to 3 weeks I have been noticing a bit of a shake at 55mph and higher. If I slow down, it becomes less and less noticeable. Well, last night, that little shimmy got serious. My check engine light came on (solid, not blinking) and it was shaking so hard, I pulled off the roadway. When I put it in N and then into P, it continued to shake violently. so, I of course turned off the engine. I waited a few minutes, restarted the car and the CEL remains lit, but the shaking is completely gone. I have 164k miles.
Since I purchased it, various electrical options have gone funky, lights mysteriously going out, rear defog and wiper gone, blinkers, central locking , mirrors won't adjust, etc. I changed every fuse in the car one by one until all elements were functioning again. The central locking, fob locking and rear defog and wiper never returned. I have already replaced the battery, Crank Position Sensor and alternator. The harmonic balancer is tight. From my research on the MB forums, I am looking at :
1) Camshaft position sensor?
2) new plugs? or the
3) MAT connection?
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We have a 2001 E320 4-Matic. Recently, it has developed a serious problem. Every now and then, when I come to a stop (e.g., at a red light), the car would shake/vibrate significantly. Even more importantly, the car seems to lose acceleration suddenly and unpredictably (not necessarily correlated with vibration at the stop). The latter problem goes away "for the moment" by switching off the engine and then restarting it. The Check Engine light has come on as well. The codes that are diagnosed are P2001, P2003, P200F, P2082, P2050, P20151, P2055, and P2053.
While there are several issues with the car, I am most concerned now with the two issues I highlighted above - sudden loss of acceleration and the vibration while stopped (both happening unpredictably). I took the car to two mechanics. The two mechanics seem to sharply differ on how to resolve the "sudden and unpredictable loss of acceleration" issue. One mechanic (Mercedes dealer) attributes the problem to issues with EGR valve and claims replacing that will fix the problem. The other mechanic attributes the problem to the Catalytic Converter which he says is broken and is causing sudden loss of acceleration (and yes, there was a rattle some time ago). The second mechanic does not disagree that the EGR valve (and the secondary air injection system) has issues but he says it is the Catalytic Converter which is causing the core problem of sudden loss of acceleration (and yes, there was a rattle some time ago).
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Car: 2000 Mercedes-Benz E320 (W210) 4matic
This car runs beautifully if the air temperature is above 60 degrees or so (maybe 65) Fahrenheit.
If the air temperature, however, is much cooler, and the engine has had enough time to cool to air temperature, it stalls. Here's the sequence:- Start the car. Car runs fine, sounds good. Initial idle speed about 1200-1500 RPM.- Wait for car to warm up for a few seconds so it settles into normal idle. Idle speed settles to about 800 RPM after 5-20 seconds, depending upon air temperature.- Shift car into gear (D or R - doesn't matter). Idle speed drops to 500 or so, then the car stalls.- Restart the car. Allow it to warm up significantly (how much depends upon air temperature). - Shift into gear (D or R). Engine idle speed drops a bit, then recovers to ~800 RPM. No problems after that.
If it's a little cool (55-60 degrees Fahrenheit), I can drive off once the engine temp gauge needle rises a few degrees (45-50 degrees Centigrade).If it's around freezing (20-40 degrees Fahrenheit), I can't drive off until the engine temp gauge reaches nearly 80 degrees Centigrade.
If I'm on a hill (pointing down), I can start at a slightly lower temperature by allowing the car to start rolling as soon as I shift into gear. In this case, there's less resistance, so the idle speed doesn't go low enough to stall the car. If I am on a level surface (or pointing uphill), 80 degrees Centigrade seems to be almost a magic number when the air temperature is below 40 Fahrenheit (near freezing). When the needle is showing about 78 degrees Centigrade, the car will still stall. When it reaches 80 degrees Centigrade, the car is fine, and will not even come close to stalling when put in gear.
ONE CONFUSING VARIABLE: When I took this to my mechanic, it didn't exhibit the problem for him. When I picked it up (about 30 Fahrenheit), it stalled. He came out and started it, put it into gear, and it idled without stalling. I got in and let him watch while I got in, started it, put it into gear, and it stalled. We have no explanation as to why this would be any different (we tried several times, varying techniques, brake pressure, etc., with the same confusing results).
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Over the winter the car starts right up and you can actually see the STEAM from exhaust, no shake. when the weather gets warmer it drives weaker, shakes more with black smokes at times especially at low RPM ~600-700. I put the car on neutral at stop so or I press on the gas paddle a bit to get less shaking. On cylinder 1 there is always a small pool of diesel at the injector nozzle. I have also turn the idle adjustment pin 2 or 3 times so the car won't idle at 3-400rpm and shuts off when there is strain on the car. 1995 Mercedes S350D....
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I have a 2005 Limited and whenever I roll any of the windows down it does a quick rattle vibration like its trying to pull away from something that's sticking then it continues to roll. It would be 1 thing of it was just 1 window however its all 4 windows. I thought originally thought maybe some of the rubber molding I seen on the windows, (maybe from the days it was hot over the course of years) were the reason and wiped all the black stuff off the windows with goop. Didn't work. I didn't realize how bad it was until I moved my old 2001 Avalon I'm selling and they rolled down so smooth..
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I have a serious suspicion that I have a timing chain rattle. Using a pipe I located the sound to the front of the engine. It ticks much faster than the injectors like more than ten times faster. There are a few different parts involved with the timing chain tension. I have 150k miles on this car.... MB 1995 c220 ....
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The A/C went out on this 2000 Mercedes drivers side first, and then two weeks later on the passenger side. This seems strange to me. The system has pressure and won't allow any more freon to be added. What is going on? A friend suggested that it could be the expander valve.
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I recently purchased a 87ford escort and I think it may have been sitting for a while but it runs Problem is it jumps rattles shakes while idling same thing when driving but not as bad. I'm hoping it is just in need of tune up but it continues to blow out black smoke from tail pipe,getting oil changed today. Do you think the smoke could mean the rings are bad? Also some times it takes awhile before the car shifts when I am driving till it gets warm.
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I have been having problems with my drivers side power window on my 06 Ford F-150. At first, it would roll down, but wouldn't roll back up, so I replaced the switch. After replacing the entire power window control switch, if you push the switch for the drivers window down, it will start to go down, then stop, and you have to press it about 20 times to get it all the way down. You can definitely hear the switch clicking off. All the other windows work perfect. I took it to get the oil changed and asked about it, and they said to change out the regulator, which I did, but the same thing happens. I checked the fuse and that was fine. Is there a relay or something I should check?
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I saw some other threads lately other people having startup problems thought i would post mines as well. Mines sometimes would startup then rattle alot/Car shakes and spit excessive smoke from tail pipe. Then sometimes it would startup up at all, No crank No Check Engine Light either
Its an 2014 Elantra GL 41,000KM with stock key, CAI. Couldn't scan any codes
Part 1 : YouTube
Part 2 : YouTube
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Ok everyone the good weather is back, so the drivers side window is down and, I am back to diagnosing an issue that I've been having for some time now. BTW were dealing with my DD 02 1.8t wagon. So all the time over any little bumps in the road or anything that i roll over that "shakes" the drivers side wheel I get this terrible rattle noise. I mean it sounds like I am a dump truck bombing down the road with a bunch of shovels in it......well not that extreme but that sort of shake noise. Anyway the noise however does not occur over any bumps when i even just slightly apply the brake. So I know that it has got to have something to do with the brake rotor or caliper or something on that wheel. Any common issues with brakes? I mean i doubt it is hurting the performance of the vehicle but it is extremely annoying and i feel like something isn't stable that should be until i apply my brakes.
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2000 Mercedes A-class, currently 190 Km, purchased 7 years ago with 90Km, all maintenance on time, as recommended.
If the car sits a day, no problem. If it sits a few days, then when releasing the brake and trying to move, the car lurches a bit. The longer it sits, the worse it seems.
Is this the back drums, as the dealer tells us, or is something else wrong?
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I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 with 237k miles on the original 4R100. Yesterday afternoon I went to back out of a parking space and the truck wouldn't move. When I put it in R, the transmission will engage and upon pressing the gas pedal it acts like it wants to move but will not budge. It rolls forward with no issue or noise. It will not roll backwards at all - not in neutral and not in reverse. The transmission shifts fine but with some hesitation to engage each gear. I have noticed some slippage but nothing crazy.
I 1st thought something might be wrong with the rear end but after some research I think it might be the transmission.
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My 2000 Mercedes C230 Kompressor's been riding rough, particularly at low speeds and when idling. I took it in to see if engine mounts needed replacement, and yes they do, but my mechanic also found that I've blown or cracked the head gasket. Coolant has solidified around the gasket, keeping it from leaking now, but he indicated that with the next rain, that solidified coolant would be washed away and the car wouldn't be able to hold coolant. The car has 160,000 miles, recent brakes and tune up (should he have seen the gasket problem at tune up???).
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I have a 2000 Toyota 4 Runner with 115k miles on it. While in Colorado a month ago, we were driving down a snow covered hill and some guy banged on the window telling us the right rear wheel wasn't spinning. We put it in reverse and it rolled fine that way but still didn't when we headed back in drive. I goosed it a little bit and it went "bam" and drove fine after that.
We were in 4 wheel drive at the time. Last night it happened again. I put the vehicle in drive and it wouldn't budge. I goosed it a little again and it went "bam" and drove several feet until I stopped. It froze up again for a few more minutes. It was NOT in 4 wheel drive this time. Is it time to dump this thing or get a new transmission in preparation for the inevitable?
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Mercedes Benz 2000 C230 Compressor has fuel problem. Replaced fuel pump pressure checks were normal. Scan read fuel trim malfunction cylinder misfire detected...Where do I go from here?
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I recently (about a year ago) got a 2000 Monte Carlo, great car, runs good, just one issue. Lately, when I accelerate it shakes in the front end, I let off the gas, the shaking stops, some days are worse than others. Some people have told me its the CVS, or the axle, or the motor mounts. Is this common with a 2000.
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I have a 2000 honda accord. v6. 148,000 miles. For a few years now my car has been doing this thing where I start it, it shakes, then shuts off. I have to rev the engine for awhile to get it to start. I've taken it in at least 5 times and nobody can figure it out. It happens sporadically (seems to be more so when I'm running errands so starting and turning it off a lot). It may happen once every few months, maybe twice in one week. Now, I recently got an oil leak. Replaced valve cover gaskets, which I was told the main source of the leak and originally they thought the oil filter housing was leaking but it's the oil pump. Is it worth replacing the oil pump on this car, given the first problem?
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I have a 2000 Buick Le Sabre and the car shakes when I step on the gas about 356mph and up. The steering wheel doesn't shake at all. I had my tires re-balanced twice but didn't work. Now a mechanic is telling me it might be the axle rod. How much will this cost? and is it a big job?
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I just got a 2000 1.8T Manual Passat last year. had about 98,000K miles on it when i got it. Engine light came on this year and now it has about 132,000K miles on it. time for a tuneup. what should I replace or do to it. Leaks oil a little from up under the engine somewhere, and the car shakes a bit at high speeds (120Miles/h). engine up front is kind of loud, sounds like air is leaking out up front somewhere when its running. I figured I could replace the air filter,valve cover, spark plugs, pcv valve, fuel filter, oil filter and change oil, and a good engine greasing. what else should I do? what else could I do. what else should i really do, I love the car, second one i have had of that year. first one was a automatic and the tranny went out.
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My 2000 Eclipse has a really bad shaking problem when put into reverse or drive. Also, it bogs down really bad when accelerating when first put into gear. It is the gs model. And I've searched everywhere online for an answer. It shifts fine. The idle drops down to around 500 when put into gear.. Whats the problem..
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