Mercedes - E300 :: 1999 - Disconnected Battery And Now Windows Won't Go Up Easily
May 7, 2011
My last business trip proved disasterous when I returned after a week to the airport to a dead battery in my E300 diesel. The car would not start with a jump so I took the battery out of the car and took it home and put a trickle charge on it. After charging, I reinstalled battery and everything seems good....except the windows roll down fine but barely roll up. You have to keep hitting the window up button for them to go. They go up about a 1/2 inch every time you hit the button but sometimes none. You just have to keep hitting button while "assisting" window to get them to close. Is this coincidence or did something happen by taking battery out of car? 1999 Mercedes E300 Turbo Diesel ....
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I have a 1974 Mercedes 280 C. Two of the power windows no longer work...the driver rear (stuck down) and the passenger front (stuck up). The problem started with middle console switches...the right bank (passenger controls) the small chrome surrounding piece popped off and caused the switches to get stuck then fall apart. I was trying to put them back together and got a spark...ooops car was on and i was using metal tweezers...then the rear driver side no longer worked??? others work. Do the switches need to be replaced or is it a bigger electrical problem. Checked fuses...all fine.
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1. Impossible to clean them completely. I've experimented with lots of brands and combos of cleaners and wipes - Armor All glass wipes, Invisible Glass (gets the best results so far), Windshield Wonder (wet and dry pads), newspaper, shop towels, microfiber, chamois (wet and dry), lint free towels. As much as I can, I wipe horizontally across the entire surface inside and vertically on the outside so I can see whats amiss. Nothing gets them totally clean, always some sort of streaks or residue show up when the sun or a headlight hits it just right.
2. They fog way too easily. This may be a symptom of the insane amount of snow and rain we've had in my area in the year I've owned it and the resulting overall humidity. But lately I have noticed the rear window begins to fog when the temp drops below 50 degrees F. All the windows fog if more then 2 people are in the car unless I have the A/C going. There is no wetness in the carpeting from a leak into the cabin. I don't know if any drains are clogged, nor do I know where to look for them.
I've owned a few VW's and they have all had the same types of issues compared to other car brands I've owned, but this Passat seems to be worse than other VW's. Or maybe I'm just more concerned with having a nice clean car now.
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I disconnect my Avalon 2007 battery and after connect it the car won't start.
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After about 3 weeks, I finally get my 04 .:R32 back from the shop after getting a new fuel pump (long story there) and the mechanic mentioned the fans began to run and stay running when the key is turned to the on position and then turned off, key removed etc. I picked the car up tonight and repeated his claim turning the key to the on position and the fans kicked on and stayed on until the battery was disconnected. I am hoping there is an easy fix. What this could be? FCM maybe?
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I have a 2013 Elantra and had to disconnect the battery. Once the battery was reconnected, there is no sound coming from my speakers. The radio turns off/on, searches for stations, etc. Everything I have read tells me to push the reset button, which is a tiny hole on the radio face plate. I have had 4 different people look for it, and it is NOT there. Looked in the owners manual about battery change and it says to reset the radio, but the manual has no instructions on how to do this. We have pulled fuses, disconnected and reconnected the battery again but it still doesn't work. Purchased the car used and never received any information on the radio code as other forums say I need to have. 2 hours in the car in silence is not fun.
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2004 Pontiac Grand Am GT, 3.4L V6...It only starts if the battery has been disconnected for at least an hour and then is immediately reconnected prior to use. Once the block is hot, however, it starts flawlessly and repeatedly every time. When the block cools, it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery and wait an hour. I did a bunch of tests without first disconnecting the battery: The fuel bar is pressurizing properly, the crankshaft position sensor works, the ignition control module has power, the plugs and wires are in good condition and have the right resistance. The coils are fine.
I did an OBD-II scan as well, no codes. However, unless I go through the disconnect-wait-reconnect procedure, there appears to be only a weak spark. I don't think it's the ignition security feature. There's no security light, performing a security reset does not fix anything, and the car starts repeatedly and reliably as long as the block is hot. I was wondering if it might be a failing sensor that has a thermal dependence? Should I look at the powertrain control module? The ignition control module?
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I closed the trunk on my 2009 BMW 328i after I disconnected the battery. I was trying to change the battery but needed to get more supplies. So, I closed the trunk Now I can't open the trunk. The battery is in the trunk.
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I was working on the car today and had the battery disconnected. When I was driving the car a few hours later i noticed my horn stopped working. the alarm sound when the car is locked stopped working too. I was hoping it would start working again like the one-touch windows do, but they didn't.... I think I possible popped a fuse but didn't see any when i checked. I really don't want to drive 60 miles tomorrow on i95 without a horn.
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2003 Pontiac Grand Am GT, 3.4L V6...It only starts if the battery has been disconnected for at least an hour and then is immediately reconnected prior to use. Once the block is hot, however, it starts flawlessly and repeatedly every time. When the block cools, it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery and wait an hour.
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I had a burned out left low beam headlight on my 2007 Toyota Avalon XLS yesterday. I have the halogen (2006) type bulbs. Today I purchased two new low beam bulbs and installed both sides new while I was at it. I had disconnected the battery and replaced both bulbs. Now the headlights (both hi and low beam) work perfectly in the auto as well as on manual mode, however my fogs lights now don't work. The fog lights worked last night prior to replacement of the low beam bulbs. So I checked for continuity of the fuse and both fog light bulbs and all were OK.
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We disconnected our 12V battery in order to reset the check engine light (went on driving at high altitude w/ 87 octane). Locked the car, came back the requisite 20 minutes and can't open the driver's door with the physical key.
We understand it should turn a short way, then require considerable force, tho not necessarily pliers. A little nervous about using pliers to force it ... ?
We're pretty sure we tested the key when we bought our used 2008, but can't remember. Should the key be 'reversable' i.e., go in either way?
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Is there a way to open the rear hatch if battery is disconnected either from the inside or outside? Is there a cable or something for emergency?
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Took my '08 F450 super duty into a reputable snow plow dealership and had them install a brand new plow on my truck. They phoned me this morning to say that the truck's security system does not recognize the key, possibly caused by the fact that they had to disconnect the battery during the plow install. So now my truck is stuck at their shop ! Just hoping I don't have to get it towed to a Ford dealership.
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I replaced a battery on a 1998 jeep grand Cherokee v6. It started and ran fine, but then in my infinite wisdom, I decided to remove the negative battery cable with the engine running to test the alternator. Some smoke started coming from the back of the engine, so I immediately killed it. It wasn't running for more than 5 seconds. When I started it again, it faltered, but the second time it started fine and ran fine, a little more smoke came out but stopped soon. it smelled like burning oil. We drove it around the block with no problems. I know it wasn't the alternator that was smoking because that's not where it was coming from, and I doubt it was the ecu because then it wouldn't run.
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Disconnected my battery for about 15 minutes to wire up HIDs. Couldn't put them in due to the nut not coming off the battery bolt. tightened battery and started car. dash has amber steering light on and traction light. when i put it in reverse (AT) it banged into gear, then put in "manual mode" trans jumped and banged into 3rd gear. also noticed 1 touch windows not working. What might have gone wrong from a simple battery disconnect. no additional wires were hooked up to the car or did i forget to reset something.
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Just bought a 2010 Hertz GenIII w/44,000mi. Wife had trouble starting it twice with weird messages like place car on flat surface to orange triangle. I hear it may be a weak battery???
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 and the battery keeps dying. We do not use the truck a lot and it sometimes sits outside for 2-4 weeks without being used. If it sits that long, it might be completely dead, but starts up easily with a jump and then works fine for a while. The battery is a 650 amp Motocraft w prorated replacement from 37-100 mo. The local Ford dealer has checked it several times in the past 2 yr and said it is fine, and that if the truck sits for a couple of weeks the battery will die. Is that right? I am not a car moron, nor am I an expert, but I am concerned that they are missing a small draw somewhere in the system. Should I be concerned about a draw or is this just something that happens to batteries as they get older?
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On a 1999 Excursion with a v10. I've got a strange problem. When the truck is left overnight, the battery is dead. Doing some testing, the is a serious draw through the dome light circuit that controls the Gem and the Tail Lights. If I pull that fuse each night, then the battery is fine. But I can't leave that fuse out, as the shifter interlock switch is disabled by this fuse. All the tail lights seem to work fine.
Dome lights do not come on. I've tested the bulbs. They're good. There is now power it seems to the dome light sockets. The door ajar light works, so I'm guessing all the switches are good.
I also have no power windows working. There is no 12v to the switch. But I heard about the Gem module as well. So I'm not sure if the Gem controls if there should be 12v to the switch all the time.
I pulled out the Gem. It looks good. No sign of corrosion or water.
Any thoughts on what to look for or how to troubleshoot this? Is there a way to test a Gem? Would a bad Gem cause the battery draw down?
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My 2003 E320 (131K miles) had been intermittingly flashing a red "Battery/Alternator Stop Vehicle" light and annoying alarm sound as well as a "Malfunction Electrical Consumers Turned Off" sign. Then three days ago the "check engine" light came on; went away the next day. Then yesterday the engine completely shut down on me.
The car started the today; took it to mechanic who says it could be alternator or wiring problem. Suggested I take it to MB dealer to get diagnosis before shelling out 800 bucks on an unnecessary car part. My question: should i take it to MB dealer or just replace the part? (I am not original owner; don't know if alternator's ever been replaced).
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While underneath truck today i noticed the front stabilizer bar has disconnected at both ends,Haven't noticed anything in the handling,How important is this thing ?
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