Mercedes - Benz :: 1995 - Turn Signal Malfunction
Oct 12, 2013
My 95 sls started having problems with Its turn signal a while ago. The dash lights show that it is on and the turn signal reminder dings at me. The lights all function properly, however at random the hazard light and the left turn signal on the dash will light up and wont stop dinging at me until I signal left. It will continue to do this to me for a random amount of time and it getting really annoying. Why this is happening?
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2001 MB E320. While traveling at the posted speed, 75mph the accelerator quits working. The speed control will still work and the accelerator will work after some play and time. When I stop the car and turn off the ignition and then start the car again the accelerator works fine. This has happened only twice but I'm afraid it will continue and happen more often. I traced the accelerator cable to a small box on the left side pf the engine.
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This 92 MB E300 has been sitting around for the better part of the last two years for various reasons (have another car with better mileage, don't drive much anyways, no insurance on it, etc), and we've been trying to get it going again with some mixed luck. I just replaced one of the window regulators (cable busted) and the battery (alarm drained it dry), but now we're having trouble starting it. It doesn't happen every time, but when we try to start it, the starter motor seems to get going no problem and it turns pretty good, but it just won't catch consistently. Its almost like there's no fuel in there, or maybe no sparks or something? Sometimes it will catch for a second, but it takes a while. Usually, once it's going its good, but if we have to stop and wait at a red light, it will sometimes just die when shifting to drive (I usually put it in neutral and give some gas while waiting). Also sometimes just when it's in a low gear and shifts up it will die too. Then, we have trouble starting it up again!
So what's going on, do you think? I was thinking maybe something along the lines of the fuel pump, spark plug, or injectors, but what do I know? (not much).
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I have a serious suspicion that I have a timing chain rattle. Using a pipe I located the sound to the front of the engine. It ticks much faster than the injectors like more than ten times faster. There are a few different parts involved with the timing chain tension. I have 150k miles on this car.... MB 1995 c220 ....
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Over the winter the car starts right up and you can actually see the STEAM from exhaust, no shake. when the weather gets warmer it drives weaker, shakes more with black smokes at times especially at low RPM ~600-700. I put the car on neutral at stop so or I press on the gas paddle a bit to get less shaking. On cylinder 1 there is always a small pool of diesel at the injector nozzle. I have also turn the idle adjustment pin 2 or 3 times so the car won't idle at 3-400rpm and shuts off when there is strain on the car. 1995 Mercedes S350D....
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Mercedes Benz 2000 C230 Compressor has fuel problem. Replaced fuel pump pressure checks were normal. Scan read fuel trim malfunction cylinder misfire detected...Where do I go from here?
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I have this sprinter cargo van and i can't find the car battery, but i found a car battery inside the actual vehicle with a wire going towards the engine,...... It's a 2012 and the car starts up but its starting to hesitate when i try turning it on ..... and there is nothing hooked up to the negative side of the battery.... I'm wondering if this is safe, and if i ever need to jump start it, how would i do it?........ don't know if the negative side of the battery should have something hooked up to it or not .....
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My 86 Mercedes 190e simply died and wouldn't restart. It does turn over, but my mechanic said it was getting no fire at all to the plugs.
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I just got a 1986 190e. The ac seems to work but when I turn the fan on the compressor shuts off. Am I doing something wrong ?
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2004 Santa Fe 2.7L
When the headlights are on the left turn signal stays on(but does not blink). The right turn signal functions ok. With the headlights off both signals function normally. The headlights work correctly.
This issue happened once a year ago but just started reoccurring two days ago.
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My T-rex was in recently for what seemed like 30 recalls... In the midst of it...my turn signal light bulb went out. They changed it...good thing cause you need to remove the ENTIRE headlight assembly with a special tool, etc. Well...my headlight now goes on/off as it hits bumps etc...was back in once to have it fixed...and has since started again. I noticed the entire assembly does not fit as well (tight) as it did originally, nor like the other assembly that has never been touched. Appears to have been the first assembly they have worked on and broke something cause now it does not mount properly...so after all that...
Had this headlight assembly removed?
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I am trying to convince my father into buying the VW Toureg. He has a Mercedes SUV, and he tells me that it is way too expensive for a VW. I like his SUV, but i own a VW Jetta GLI 1.8t. I love this car. My mom has a Merc. C230 Kompressor, and i guess thats the comparison to the Jetta, i hate her car.
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I have a 1995 Chevrolet Lumina with about 175,000 miles on it. I've noticed in the past few months that the lights seem a bit dimmer, and the turn signal doesn't always work for the rear blinkers. It blinks rapidly in the front, but after a nudge to the turn signal, it slows down and begins to work in the back. Within the past couple of weeks, when the turn signal is on, it causes the speedometer indicator to pulse with the signal.
I took it in for the low lights and the signalling issue, and they said it might be the battery since it wasn't giving at a full charge. That was replaced, and the issues were still there. After that they said it would be an issue of getting into the steering column which would be a couple hundred dollars just to try and find the problem, but they couldn't guarantee that would actually find the problem.
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I have a 2001 Mercedes E class, 4Matic. Over the last 7 years the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)/EPS (Electronic Stability Program)/BAS (Braking Assist Program) warning light comes on and when I stop the car and start again, the light goes away. When this light comes on, only thing I noticed is the cruise control does not work, otherwise, no other problem. I took it to the service station one time, but that light did not come on and they did not do anything.The car has 105,000 miles. Now, when the light comes on it stays on longer and sometimes, I have turn the car on and off several times before light will go away.I am afraid to take it to the Mercedes dealer, as they might find a problem when no problem is there. Whether this is just glitch in the software or there is a real problem.
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I have a 1989 Mercedes 300F, automatic transmission, with 175,000 miles (give or take). It runs great, starts well, we have no problem driving it 30 miles back and forth on back roads up to 60 mph. The problem seems to be when driving 40 miles at 75 mph. At that point, it will start to run rough, and then will not go over 40 mph without whining. The first time this happened, I had a leak in the transmission fixed and fluid put in. The second time, I had the fluid and filter changed, a new alternator, and a complete tune up. For a month after that we drove it for miles but not on the highway, with no problem. I thought I would chance it on a longer trip, got 40 miles down the highway at 75 mph when suddenly it started acting up and had to call a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived, we did not see any fluid under the car. It's been sitting in the driveway and now there are fluid leaks (appears to be oil). So, does it sound like something in the transmission, or maybe a bad alternator?
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While on way to parts store car started acting like it was running out of gas. A half block from gas station it quit . I walked to station got gas put in the tank the engine would crank but would not start. I got towed home and still will not start. It will crank but that's it. 3.0 L inline 6 300 E ...
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The check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?
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Turn signal lights not working on a 1995 Buick Regal. I have replaced fuse & flasher but still didn't solve problem.
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I have a 91 Mercedes with 153,000 miles thats terrific but the mystery leak in the hydraulic running the rear suspension is driving me nuts. Especially when the hydraulics call for factory spec fluid.
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I have a '05 Mercedes CLK320 convertible that I purchased 3 years ago with about 29,000 miles on it. Two years ago the hydraulic lines in the top blew and I spent about $3,000 to have it repaired. Today, the lines blew again. What I'm trying to find out is: - Is this common in this car? Or in any convertible?- Did I just get a lemon?- If this isn't a common problem, should the dealer that repaired the hydraulics 2 years ago fix them again for free?
It only has 70,000 miles on it now and I was under the impression that I could drive a Mercedes for a couple hundred thousand miles without a too much mechanical problem. But if this is going to be an ongoing issue, I'm going to get rid of the car, even though I absolutely love it. It's ruby red, of course!
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My brakes squeak from time to time, particularly backing up, but also braking forward. My mechanic said I have plenty of brake pad and nothing is being damaged. He said he has often seen the "squeaky brakes" problem in Mercedes and it is often difficult to pinpoint which wheel (or wheels) would be the cause of the squeaking (sound like metal on metal). Why this is happening?
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