1994 Mercedes C280, Cylinder 1 & 6 no spark. Changed 3 coil packs, changed wires and spark plugs. Engine wire harness look fine. Cylinders 2,3,4,5 have spark. Coil number 3 Controls Cylinder 1& 6; and I use multi-meter to check for voltage. 11.70 volts with key on position, 13.80 volts with ignition on. I need to figure out could it be a sensor or the ECU( Computer) or Engine?
View 1 RepliesMy 1994 mercedes C220 stalls at idle. the local mercedes dealer told me that it is caused by the alternator overcharging. can this be true??
View 2 RepliesI need getting my Buick to start. It is a 1989 LeSabre Limited with a series 1 3800 engine. I only have spark on cylinders 3 and 6 (paired on ignition coil). I have run tests to see that I have that I have 12 volts to the ignition module, 12 volts out to the crank sensor, signals coming from the crank sensor. I pulled the coil pack and found that I only have a signal on the blue wire supplying 3 and 6. I don't get a signal on the green and yellow wires supplying the other 4 cylinders. My tests would indicate that the ICM is bad. I replaced the ICM and out of desperation the coil pack and I still have the exact same problem. I cleaned the aluminum surface to make sure I have an excellent ground.
View 7 RepliesMy problem started five months ago and was very intermittent until now. The engine would run rough at start up either cold of hot and then run fine after about two or three miles. Now it runs rough all the time. I have installed a new ignition coil, new spark plug wires and new spark plugs. The engine starts ok but it runs rough and when I pull the spark plug wires one at a time,while it is running, the spark is very weak on cylinders 2 and 4. The spark on the other two cylinders looks good. I have checked the connector on the powertrain control module, which is a EEC-V, and there doesn't seem to be any bad connections there.
View 6 RepliesI was taking out my plugs 2 of them were soaked with gas and oil and 1 of the other ones just spins. what do I do? The car is a 1995 tbird 133000 miles the car has been sitting for a year and I couldn't get it to start that's why I am pulling the plugs the car ran fine when it was parked....
View 7 RepliesMy dad was changing his plugs today (2000 passat 1.8t) and he found some oil down in the holes for the plugs on the front two cylinders (closest to the front of the car) and also on the plugs themselves, and needless to say hes a little concerned. he doesn't think there should be any there. headgasket?? He has 105k miles...
View 5 RepliesI just finished rebuilding my 1990 2.9 and it wouldn't start. When we did the initial start up, the truck needed ether to start and ran decently while stumbling. I found out that the spout connector was removed from the previous owner so I spliced it but still no starting ...
I installed a new fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned the injectors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter and cleaned the MAF. ..
Its not a spark problem because I'm getting good spark from all the cylinders and yes the timing was set correctly. It sounds like it wants to start but just doesn't have something to make it boom. There are also no codes...
Have a 2006 Ford Taurus that has two dead cylinders. Cylinder 3 and 4. Code says bad coil. I replaced with new coil and plugs. Same problem. Replaced wires and same problem.
Car has 65K. What is causing both cylinders to be dead? Pulled wires off while running and no spark on 3 and 4.
Al right i have a 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 auto 186k ... The truck has new bosch double plat plugs gaped .054, new wires, MAF, TPS, FPR, O2 sensors, ECTS and I checked the intake air charge sensor and is fine ....
My issue is cylinders 4,5 and 6 dont fire... the coil is sending a spark, i can pull the plugs one at a time and watch them fire (strong blue spark)... All fuel injectors do not leak and spray a perfect cone out of all 4 holes and noid light test is good ...
The truck runs like crap back firing and no power under 4k and i can pull off all 3 wires for bank one and it make no difference and when i unplug the injectors no more back fire....
My truck is skipping but if I give it more throttle it will stop but then will start back when I let off the throttle. It seems like it is only running on half the cylinders. This problem is intermittent which makes it very hard to troubleshoot even for the dealership and other places I have taken it. Also, the problem is temperature sensitive. It only does it below 40 deg. F. Truck runs fine any other time of the year. Truck has new plugs, plug wires, distributor, egr valve, O2 sensor. Also, the IAC has been cleaned. The check engine light does not come on.
View 14 RepliesI get a call from my mother saying their 1994 Toyota Camry 2.2L car won't start. I went over there today and the first thing I check was the spark. I hooked my spark tester and had my dad crank the engine over. No spark. So I removed the distributor cap and tested the resistance on the primary and secondary sides of the coil. The secondary side was low. So I went and got a new coil, installed it and it still wouldn't start. I checked the spark again and it had spark, but still wouldn't start. I then proceeded to check the fuel pressure. I hooked up my pressure tester to fuel filter, with the included adapter, and had my dad turn the ignition switch to ON position. No pressure. Then I had him try and start the engine, the pressure jumped up to 41 PSI. I then sprayed a little gas into the throttle and the engine would try to start. I'm stuck.
View 5 RepliesSo three weeks ago, yes 3 weeks, my loathed Bronco decided not to start. It has been sitting at my office parking lot since then. Every day at lunch and after work I spend some quality time with it, attempting to coax it back to life. Here is what I've done so far...Installed a new ignition coil (gets 12+ volts with key in 'run,' and ±10.5 v. when cranking), a new distributor, (with PIP) cap & rotor, new remote mounted ignition control module. All voltages and resistances throughout the ignition system are good according to the Hayes repair manual but there is no spark being sent to the distributor. I've also done an ECC self test and got no response at all. Does this mean the ECC/PCM is bad? My butt is in so much pain with me having to ride a bicycle everywhere. (Riding in the rain while carrying an umbrella is no fun!).If I don't figure this out soon I suppose I'll give the Vehicle Donation Program a call.
View 9 Replies94 camry. 4 cylinder. Coil is located on the strut housing along with the ignitor. The car was running, but overheating.
The last time it ran, it overheated badly, but was parked right away. Fans never came on.
The radiator was leaking, so that was replaced. And since the fans hadn't come on, the temp sensor for the fans, in the bottom of the rad was also replaced.
Now it won't start. It cranks over nicely, and acts like it is missing spark or fuel.
It has spark. Determined by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor and checking there.
I used spray starting fluid by pulling the tube from the end of the throttle body and spraying in there. The spray starting fluid should have at least caused a cough or two, if not a short start and run then die... if fuel delivery was the problem.
I have tried it with the temp switch on the manifold connected, and then disconnected. Also tried jumping that connector, so I don't think that temp switch is the problem. (It's the temp switch that has the green connector.)
I am assuming the ignitor and coil are good, otherwise I would not be getting a spark from there.
The problem began with intermittent stalling and now the Jeep will not start at all (no spark). I have had the cap, rotor, primary ignition coil, crank sensor, cam position sensor and PCM replaced without any luck. The repair bills have been brutal. The garage has given up.
View 8 RepliesHave replaced distributor, spark plugs, coil, and still have very weak, erratic spark. Plugs getting plenty of fuel, won't start. What else I should do?
View 7 Replies1994 Ford Ranger. Replaced coil, ignition control module, and distributor. Have checked fuses. Cranks fine.
View 19 Replies94 Camry, 4 cylinder. 204,000 miles. New fuel pump last year. Timing belt replaced 30K ago. Plugs and plug wires, as well as distributor cap and rotor, about 2 years old. New ignition coil about 300 miles ago. Generally very well maintained and in good shape. Today it died on the NJ Turnpike, 200 miles from home; started missing and it got progressively worse over the span of about 30 seconds to the point that the motor died. Towed to local Pep Boys (I know, but it was the only choice on a Saturday and I don't know the local area).
Mechanic says no spark but was unable to fix it. As things now stand the nearest Toyota dealer is scheduled to move the car to their shop on Monday. All the dash lights come on, including chimes and such. It will crank like a champ but will not fire up. I know this isn't giving you all much to go on, but I'm wondering if what happened could be related to the coil. Is it likely to have failed? Would replacing an old coil cause anything else to break down in the distributor?
I wanted to no why my car has water on the spark plugs not a lot though couple drips on the threads and on the part u gap(numbers 3 and 5 both are side by side), the oil looks like a light chocolate shack, it also spills a lot of water out the exhaust pipe. sort of like its being sprayed out non stop. i haven't did a compression test but all plugs are removed I am thinking its a head gasket. And the rest of the spark plugs look good just numbers 3 and 5 were wet.
View 19 RepliesI've been trying to work out why my 94 Camry isn't starting, and was hoping I could run a few things by you all and see if you think I'm headed in the right direction. So, here's the situation so far.
No leading-up issues of any kind. Just passed a (real) PA inspection and runs great. The car was parked just overnight, running fine the day before. The next day, it wouldn't start at all. Strong turn-over. No attempt to start. I tested a working spark plug by connecting it to the car (pulled out), and then connecting the threads to the negative terminal of the battery. While turning over, there was no spark. I then pulled the distributor cap and rotor. It appears some oil (definitely engine oil) had gotten inside from a previous known leak. The rotor contact was not super clean and looked to have some burnt up oil on it. I cleaned up all the contact points and reassembled. Nothing. Took the cap back off and tested the coil with an ohmmeter, which was all within spec. I have not tested individual terminal from the distributor, because a) I'm not entirely sure of a good way to do this and b) I doubt all four cables went bad at the same time, and if some were firing, it should be attempting to start, no? I suspect it's an issue from the distributor or before.
I had read that a coil with good ohmmeter readings may still be bad, so I ordered a new one. Should be here tomorrow.
Is there anything else I should test or look into? Oh, and is it weird that the headlight fuse keep blowing when I attempt to start the car? Does that give any clues as to the source of the problem?
I have a 94 ranger with the 2.3l engine there is no spark at the ignition module (the front one both on the drivers side) that controls the plugs on the drivers side of the engine. I swapped with the module for the exhaust side but the problem stays at the same two plus and doesn't move with the module .. What can be the source of this problem? ECU?
View 6 RepliesSons 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 Auto 185k got him to work yesterday but would not start to bring him home. No spark, checked with timing light, and no fuel pressure. Searched and read alot of tips from Pawpaw so I tried a few things with no luck. Swapped the relays around, inspected coil pack and plugs. CEL was not on and goes out while cranking. I have a OBD scan tool but this truck must be too old or I need finding plug. Crank sensor maybe?
View 7 Replies