Mercedes :: 1992 - Cranky When Not Used Daily
Mar 13, 2013
My car is causing a whining noise. Sadly, the whining is coming from me. The whining started when I talked to the dealer about solving a reliably intermittent problem the car has. It went something like this: The dealer: “We are not sure what is causing the problem, but our tests show that the wiring harness is showing a lot of faults. We recommend that you replace the upper and maybe lower wiring harnesses.”
My car has had this reliably intermittent problem for several years, and I have not been able to find an answer on how to remedy the problem, and thereby eliminate my whining. My car is a ’92 Mercedes 400e. It has about 135 thousand miles on the odometer. I’ve had the car for about 13 years.
Here is the reason for my whining: The car is reliable as long as I drive it daily. If I let it sit for more than a day or 2, the car will start right up, and run and idle great for about 15 minutes. After that it starts to sputter a lot at idle and when pulling away from a stop. Sometimes it stalls while at idle or pulling away from a stop. It does this even if I turn off all the electrical things that I can. If I run the tach up to about 1500 rpm, no sputtering…until I come to a stop.
Once the car starts to behave all sputtery, I usually let it rest for about 30 minutes or so, and after that the car starts right up and usually runs fine. If the car sits for longer than 2 days, it takes more trips before it starts to behave again.
I’ve found the easiest way to avoid this problem is to use the car daily. Of course, I don’t drive every day and every time I let it sit for a couple of days it’s back to being meister misfire.
This has been an intermittent problem for several years. I’ve had a complete tune up by the dealer, which actually worked for a couple of months, but the problem came back. Most recently the dealer replaced the rotor caps (it had been about 35 thousand miles since they were last replaced) and again this worked, but only for a few weeks.
The dealer can’t provide an answer. Their latest guess the wiring harnesses - and that’s where my whining noises started.
The car is garaged when not in use, but I’ve found that keeping inside or out does not affect this problem, nor does it being warm or cool, nor does a lot of rain or a little rain (I live in Seattle, where the only thing that changes about rain is the temperature).
What might be causing the car’s cranky behavior, other than the part where the car is over 20 years old?
View 8 Replies
Advertisement
This 92 MB E300 has been sitting around for the better part of the last two years for various reasons (have another car with better mileage, don't drive much anyways, no insurance on it, etc), and we've been trying to get it going again with some mixed luck. I just replaced one of the window regulators (cable busted) and the battery (alarm drained it dry), but now we're having trouble starting it. It doesn't happen every time, but when we try to start it, the starter motor seems to get going no problem and it turns pretty good, but it just won't catch consistently. Its almost like there's no fuel in there, or maybe no sparks or something? Sometimes it will catch for a second, but it takes a while. Usually, once it's going its good, but if we have to stop and wait at a red light, it will sometimes just die when shifting to drive (I usually put it in neutral and give some gas while waiting). Also sometimes just when it's in a low gear and shifts up it will die too. Then, we have trouble starting it up again!
So what's going on, do you think? I was thinking maybe something along the lines of the fuel pump, spark plug, or injectors, but what do I know? (not much).
View 2 Replies
1992 Mercedes 300E with 160,000 miles that I've owned for 15 years. Car runs fine for approximately 10-20 minutes and then starts to sputter and cough and if I don't increase the RPM's it will stall. If I increase the RPM's it will smooth out for a little while, but after a couple of minutes with higher RPM's it will sputter again and finally stall. After it sits for awhile I can start it up again and it runs fine for another 10-20 minutes. No check engine light is on and the car is OBD 1.
This problem preceded the weather recently turning cold. Thus far I replaced the spark plug wires as the other ones were old, but this didn't work. The spark plugs themselves were replaced about 2 years ago. At this point I'm suspecting it needs a new distributor cap and rotor (when I replaced the wires some of the cap's posts had corrosion, which I cleaned off with a brush).
View 2 Replies
I just bought a used automatic MM with 137k miles. Engine and interior super clean. I did test drive and it seemed to pull back a bit and rev harder when I was starting out from a stop or in intermittent traffic where I was slowing down and speeding up with flow of traffic. It also does it worse on hills. The guy from the car lot said it was the way I was driving the car...hmmmm...I'm not a lead foot. I let the car ease into higher speeds, I don't punch it. Ever.
Yesterday I took a longer drive and had other people in the car with me who also noticed the rough transitions between low gears and asked if that was "normal." NOT being a car mechanic I get alarmed when others are pointing something I too thought could be at issue. I bought the car "as is" after doing some online research and finding out that these car's even at this age get 4.5 to 5 star ratings from people who have them.
I took it to Auto Zone and they put the little code reader on the car but no codes came up. His suggestion was to have all the fluids changed in case someone put the wrong weight of transmission fluid in the car. I did check the fluid at the car lot and it was bright pink and at correct levels. Not sure that's what it is. He also suggested the possibility of it being a "shift cellinoid"?
I don't know what that is but he said it shouldn't be expensive to fix. He also suggested getting the transmission serviced to see if that might solve it. Someone else suggested "clean the IAC hole and throttle plate with choke cleaner..." don't know what that is? Someone else said to consider a vacuum leak in the fresh air tube between the air filter box and the throttle body...these are all just guesses.
View 1 Replies
I'm relatively new with my 2011 Prius. I've been averaging about 53.6 mpg, but I feel as if I can do better. I've set 54 mpg as this "magic number" that I'm aspiring to, but if I ever reach that, the number will probably rise to 55 and so on ... (As an aside, if I just set the cruise control while on the commute I'm about to describe, I get the same mileage as I do when I'm working on hypermiling, so I don't know if it's worth the effort with this route).
My daily commute is around 15 miles. About half of this is a hilly and curvy road. The PSL on that portion is 55 mph, and it is a two-lane (one lane in each direction) road. At least one of the hills are so steep that if I DWL, I'll lose between 15 to 20 mph from the bottom to the top; that's with the HSI "pegged" right before the power section of the line. I can maintain speed, or at least lose less, if I go into the power area. Additionally, there are several curves at the bottom of the hills where I must brake down to around 40 mph to safely negotiate the curve.
Finally, it is well-trafficked road as well, so, while observing the speed limit, I may have 10 cars piled up behind me, which makes me nervous.
View 19 Replies
Here is the thing. Sometimes, out of the blue, the indicated MPG for my commuting trip shows too high number, something like mid 60's. Sure enough, next day, I can count for the indicated MPG to go under the average, something like low to mid 50's. The average is high 50's (translated to mid 50's MPG by the gas pump). The difference cannot be explained by ambient temp (not much variation and garaged car) or battery state (I have constant charge with my style of driving) or difference in the traffic (very predictable). I'm puzzled about it. What is striking is the compensation next day after.
View 6 Replies
So over the past view days I have been hearing some sort of light squealing noise coming from my car during my daily commute. At first I though it was wind noise or something stuck in the grill of the bumper. When I looked the car over this morning, I didn't see any plastic or something caught in the grill to be causing the noise. Then I thought maybe its my wheels, brakes, or rotors but found out it wasn't that after hearing the noise stopped at a stop light. I did a few revs and heard slight squeal coming from the engine bay.
So I don't really know what to look for now. The sound is fairly faint, but a high pitch squeal.
View 2 Replies
When I first got my GTI this was a problem maybe every could weeks or so. The driver's side auto up/down will randomly stop working almost every day now. I do the reset by holding the button down for 5 seconds when the window is down and then holding it up for 5 seconds when it's up. It then functions as it should and malfunctions a day or so later. I have a VAG-COM, not sure if that can reset something in the module? Not sure if it could also be the switch itself? I COULD go to the dealer but last time they just did the reset procedure and sent me on my way.
View 24 Replies
Is the eip race exhaust to loud for daily driving? People have told me that it would be to loud but I like loud. I looked on YouTube for soundclips but I only found two and one was pretty raspy.
View 13 Replies
I know I am unusual but most days I drive about 3-4 miles. I can get 2-3 days out of a charge. Should I plug in every night or just when needed? Does it use more kWh to plug in every day?
View 19 Replies
I had my SUV (2000 Ford Expedition) tuned up. I'm losing about 1-2 quarts of coolant every couple of days. While I was having the tune up done, I asked the mech to try to find where the coolant is going. He couldn't. He did say that they'd pumped the system up to 18 lbs (it's got a 16 lb cap) and it held for 45 minutes, so I'm a little (little-little) less afraid that it's my head gasket. Questions are these:
1. Could my 16 lb cap be at fault? It got pretty gunky when I mixed the coolants (see my post - Don't cross the streams).
2. Could my rear heat exchanger be leaking and where would the coolant come out? It's got rear air and heat that's controllable form the second seat.
I never see water on the ground or dripping. No white exhaust to detect. Doesn't run rough at all at startup. In other words, none of the traditional head gasket indicators.
View 1 Replies
General misfire when the engine light comes on. This error has been occurring almost daily, sometimes it pins it down to cylinder 3. My wife's nephew who is a mechanic says it could be the sensor, but I have only been getting around 30 mpg though the car seems to run alright. I did go ahead and get the plugs replaced, as I was told it could be a bad plug but the error light still comes on as before and the mileage appears no better. What could this be? I am retired on fixed income and dread the very idea of an expensive diagnostic & repair session with a dealer service. Their solution for about everything wrong has been to replace the gas tank (three times already in the life of the car). Last time that did not fix what was going on with the car..
View 10 Replies
2006 Subaru B9 Tribeca, 160,000 miles. Misfire throws check-engine light twice daily, compression leak, getting worse. Valve job? or trade?
View 7 Replies
I am moving from overseas and need to decide if I invest (approx $3-4K) in shipping my 2010 Mercedes Benz C300 with 22,300 miles or sell if (likely all I'll get is Black Book value) and buy a new Mazda CX-5. I am moving to a state that gets snow, so thinking an SUV may be more practical. But not sure about the trade off between the Benz and the Mazda ... will have to shell out cash either way.
View 19 Replies
The A/C went out on this 2000 Mercedes drivers side first, and then two weeks later on the passenger side. This seems strange to me. The system has pressure and won't allow any more freon to be added. What is going on? A friend suggested that it could be the expander valve.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2004 Mercedes SL500 convertible and every time I get in I get a hit of gasoline smell. I've had two mechanics look at it and they can't find a leak.
View 4 Replies
I have a e350 mercedes 2006 with82000 miles on it. Also it had a message of brake service on the screen. I took it to the shop, and they changed oil and said no evidence on oil leak. The brake message was brake blob needed to be changed. Two weeks later, the engine light came up, took it to dealer. They replace the air pump injector, I guess. One or two times early in the morning, I smelled rubber burn smell. But I could not reproduce the smell and did not come back, so I ignored it. Yesterday again, I noticed about two tablespoons under the car. The leak is not right on the center, it is more towards the driver side area. I parked it somewhere else to see if we get more of a leak. No leak so far. However, I noticed some evidence of spotting on my garage floor that is not recent and very small. I am not sure what to do. It runs ok, the oil level is perfect. No temperature issue. What can it be? Should I wait to see some changes to take it to dealer or should I ignore it or should I take it now?
View 5 Replies
I am losing my mind over this. I bought a 2013 c63 in May and the last few months it has been making this clunking noise. I have taken it to the dealership 3 times so far and each time the noise goes away for about a week only to return worse than it was. It used to only make noises when I turned right on incline changes at low speeds. Now it makes the noise going over any bump at any speed.
The first time I took it in they replaced the front left strut. The second time they replaced the front right strut. The third time they replaced the lower control arm.
I am posting 2 videos of the noise. This video is between the first and second visits and the noise can be heard around the 24 second mark.
[URL] ....
This second video was taken today, 2 weeks after my third visit. You can hear the noise continuously throughout the video on any slight bump.
[URL] ....
View 11 Replies
I am trying to convince my father into buying the VW Toureg. He has a Mercedes SUV, and he tells me that it is way too expensive for a VW. I like his SUV, but i own a VW Jetta GLI 1.8t. I love this car. My mom has a Merc. C230 Kompressor, and i guess thats the comparison to the Jetta, i hate her car.
View 24 Replies
2003 Mercedes SLK 230... For the past couple of years, I've been having issues with the car not starting and was hoping to get some opinions on the possible cause. A new battery and starter were installed within the past year, which seemed to have fixed the problem for a little while, and it's had every kind of tune up under the sun. However the day after the starter was installed, the car wouldn't start the first couple of times I turned the keys. My extremely reliable and trustworthy mechanic looked over everything again and said he could find no issues whatsoever.
Since then, the car has failed to start every few weeks to months. Sometimes, it starts after a couple more tries and a short wait. Other times, a jump start gets it running. One time, i turned the keys, and the lights inside started flashing and a weird buzzing noise came from the stereo. The car wouldn't jump start, but a couple hours later, it started up just fine without any support. I took it to my mechanic, who again couldn't find anything wrong. I've taken it to multiple shops who have checked the car top to bottom, from the battery cable and terminals to the starter, and said the same thing. Today, the car wouldn't start, but the lights came on and there was no clicking noise. I suspect that a jump start will work, but some of the mechanics have suggested that I have it towed as is to make it easier to diagnose the issue.
View 2 Replies
1994 Mercedes C280, Cylinder 1 & 6 no spark. Changed 3 coil packs, changed wires and spark plugs. Engine wire harness look fine. Cylinders 2,3,4,5 have spark. Coil number 3 Controls Cylinder 1& 6; and I use multi-meter to check for voltage. 11.70 volts with key on position, 13.80 volts with ignition on. I need to figure out could it be a sensor or the ECU( Computer) or Engine?
View 1 Replies