Megane - Coupe :: 2008 - Oil Level Low After Parking On Hill
Feb 6, 2016
My car has just had a 66 point service and I bought a full bottle of fully Synthetic oil for the garage to use to save costs. All was fine, I have just parked the car on a very steep hill so the car was tipped to the right hand side for about 7 or 8 minutes. I came back and when I started the car it said Oil level low, now I'm sure it would say this due to the engine being tilted but it never went off for about 2 miles and until I turned ignition off. Nothing would leak out would it?? I'm tempted to put more in the engine but don't want to over fill it if the garage have done it already? (I have a Renault megane coupe 2008)
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I live in the mountains an back into my driveway that is on a steep hill. My car has rolled backwards twice now with the parking break engaged. The first time it came to a halt where it flattened out. Last night I had my truck parked behind it and it rolled into our recycling and garbage bins and pinned them between the car and the truck. I have a significant dent below the window on my hatch.
Manual transmission. Parking brake engaged. Car was in neutral. I usually leave my car in first when parking on a hill. I am not sure if it slipped out of gear or I left it in neutral by accident.
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So my May 2007 V6 Sonata with 143,000 km (89k miles) had the red parking brake light come on. Master cylinder level was low and there was evidence of something leaking on the driveway. Below the very back of the driver seat.
At the dealership they say I've got a leak in my brake lines. Say that the fuel lines should be replaced too since they are in the same compartment. So if one goes the other may not be far behind.
I was out of town and the car couldn't be driven safely so I was pretty much stuck there.When the dealership did the work a rusted bolt snapped near the fuel tank and they said that added an additional hour of labour to the work. In the end I wasn't charged for it. Tech said he had never seen a Sonata have the brake lines rust out like that. I got the brake and fuel lines done cause I plan on owning it for 6+ years.
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So my 2007 Accent/Hatchback started having this weird issue the other day.
My Parking Brake/Low Brake fluid Level Warning Light will coming on while driving and then all the gauges drop down. The light goes off and the gauges come right back up. All this happens within 2-4 seconds maybe. And usual happens maybe once every 6-7 times I drive it so not all the time.
I am driving, not braking so even more confused.
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Let me first say that my knowledge about vehicles is nearly non existent. Yesterday I was stopped at a light on a hill. When I pulled away up the hill it felt like the tranny was slipping real bad. I coasted into a gas station and stopped. I gave it the once over look around to see if I could see anything unusual. All looked ok, so I wondered if maybe it wasn't all the way into gear or something.
I limped it home only 2 miles and it was seemingly normal although I was real gentle and it was all flat or downhill. Later that night I drove it around the block and it was shuddering and banging and seemed to be slipping again. My question is doesn't the transmission usually go over time, or does it fail suddenly like this. Could it be something else? And lastly what does a rebuild cost. Truck is 06 FX4 54000 miles 3.73 gears. Edge Evolution on level 2.
I tow a Trailer a few times a year 7000 lbs fully loaded, if I do need a new tranny should I replace to a different gear.
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4, tow package 5.4, edge tuner, magnanflow muffler.
Towing a 21ft fifth-wheel, trailer weighs 4000 lbs, my trans temp will get up around 250 when pulling a large hill.
What is hot for a transmission?
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2006 fx4 f150 5.4 flex 52,000 miles ... Just got home from a 800 mile round trip vacation, seems I've developed a miss or a tranny problem. The truck runs/idles fine, shifts fine, everything is as normal. Except maybe 12 times while under a load, like climbing a hill, the truck would "bump" that's the only way I can describe it. I only noticed it in Drive/Overdrive. I hoped I had water in the gas so I added gas treatment at 2 fill ups, still seems to do it occasionally. Where to start? I'm going to get a fuel filter today, the one that's on it only has about 12k on it....
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My 2004 started shuddering at 45mph or while going up a 4-6 degree hill. It was well past the suggested 100,000 mile spark plug change. I thought about changing the plugs myself until I heard that they could possibly break and would be difficult to remove. I took the truck to a shop and had the plugs changed.
For about 2 days it ran okay, but the shudder returned and we got PO303 (mis-fire cylinder #3), PO316 (mis-fire on start-up), and PO171 (system to lean, bank one) Codes. The shop replaced the fuel injector on cylinder #3 and again the truck ran okay for about 2 days. My son and I cleaned the other three injectors on bank one, cleaned most of the sensors and the MAF.
That work cleared the PO171 Code, but we still had a mis-fire on cylinder #3. We swapped the spark plugs between #1 and #3 and got a mis-fire on cylinder #1. We replaced the plug on cylinder #1 and that cleared the code. The truck is running great.
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I bought a 2004 F150 XLT 4x4 122,000KM. I used to have a 1995 BMW 318TI but I built a cabin and a truck seems to go with it. I have already done some work like new plugs, oil change, tranny flush, fuel filter change and Air Filter. I noticed about 2 weeks ago going up to the cabin a rattle sound when I was going up a hill. It is coming from the right side (FRONT) and it sounds like its from the wheel. I really does it if I give it some gas and then press a bit more on the peddle and then you here like marbles in a tin can if that makes sense. I just got back from my mechanic and we took it out and it is still doing it so we jacked it up and checked everything. Their are no loose clips and back plates making noise. We did notice that a heat shield near the cat was rubbing and we adjusted it, this did not solve out problem. We were both looking at each other after an hour wondering what the hell this could be. I am going back on Wed and he is going to hook it up with some kind of machine with microphones and a headset to pinpoint the problem. It does not affect the performance of the truck but it is very annoying when I need to give it some gas to pass or go up a big hill.
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 with 149,000 miles I have recently put 5,000$ In the motor that is a 5.4 V8 before it would shake and make a terrible noise got a brand new engine from Ford put in by a ford mechanic but now my rear end squeaks like crazy and it is all the time more so when going up or down a hill or when it's shifting more or less or going over a ruff surface that's been going on awhile and was told I needed a new rear end by the same ford mechanic and wanted 1,000 to fix it!
But also said the whining noise that is coming from the front was the transmission and that I shouldn't worry about it to drive it till it goes out but it's a terrible whining noise that you only hear it when your in gear not in park or neural the truck sounds good what causes this whining noise?? Not done yet but recently the front driver side around the wheel has also gotten a squeak mostly when in low speeds and turning to the left! What to do? I'm already replacing the motor! Hopefully these are some easy fixes! I've done some research and the whining from the front that I was told to be the transmission doesn't seem to be that I would think more along the lines of pulley or alt!
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Ok I have been trying to find out what is going on with my truck and I cant seem to find anything on here that points to all the symptoms I am having. I have a 05 xlt 4x4 with 5.4. For the last 5 months or so I have been noticing a slip or grinding noise when I go up a hill and it downshifts into I believe 3rd gear. It sounds like going over rumble strips on the road but only lasts a second. It also does it sometimes when I pull out from a stop.Also when I let off gas or brake to a stop it seems to shudder a bit.
Maybe its my imagination since I keep hearing for the grinding sound, I don't know anymore.Its driving me nuts(er). It doesn't do it all the time either.It has only 65,000 miles on it and never towed. I know I am due for a total tranny flush since it never had one. Could this be the whole problem? Iv been reading other stories that sound close to mine but they never mentioned about the noise when pulling out. Could it be the rear end? I am totally lost on this one.Other then that problem it runs great. Shifts nice.
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My 2013 Coupe has reflectors on the bottoms of the doors that do not light up. I know on my 2013 Optima with door reflectors that do not light up it has the housing that is used on the Korean version that does light up minus the wiring and you can tap into the wiring to make the door reflectors light up when you open the door.
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Last week I got back from a two week trip and came to turn on my car (95k miles) and I quickly noted a flat. Put the car in park to check it, and all of the sudden the engine is revving--1500rpm up to about 3500rpm and back down, over and over again. Put on my spare and headed to the shop. The whole way there, about four miles or so one-way, the car could hit 40mph without me on the gas. I turned the car on/off about five times, still having the same issue. In total, I drove about 25 miles with this issue, then, all of the sudden it seemed to be solved.
My mechanic seemed troubled by it when he took a look. No one could diagnose the issue, just had the air leak that caused the flat on a Saturday afternoon fixed, but I haven't taken it back to them because the issue isn't happening anymore.
This comes on the heels of taking it in and having the fuel relay fixed because of the well-documented issue with this car stalling on start with warm temperatures. That fix was supposed to take care of things, but the issue still persisted following the fix.
2000 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe....
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2008 V6 Camry - Read quite a few threads about people not being able to see their oil level. It isn't the usual problem where sanding the dipstick or paper towels or painting it or turning it or better lighting will give me the mark because I have the opposite problem - I can see too much oil showing for some inches above the full level. The oil is coming from the dipstick tube so I cant tell where the true level is.
The car is cold and level. Tried making the dipstick really clean with hot dish detergent, and also tried making it a bit sticky with vicks - nope. Occasionally I can see a small hole in the oil about an eighth above the full line - so I reckon that is the true level. I changed the oil myself so I know it hasn't got 2 gallons in there. Driven it 2k at speed since the oil change and it is perfect.
But is there a better way to make sure that oil in the tube does not get on the dipstick causing the dipstick to show 3 inches overfull ?
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I have a 1999 Saturn Coupe with about 47,000 miles on it. Today, my clutch started squeaking every time I depressed it. Is this forewarning of something bad, or should I ignore it?
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I have only had my 08 F for a few months and it is due for an oil change in about 1K. Today the low engine oil light came on, so I checked it and indeed it was just below the low level on the dipstick. The light came on once before while I was parked on an extreme grade, and the oil level was fine. I have no evidence of any leaks. This doesn't seem as though it would be normal. By the way it took about 1/2 qt to bring it back to normal levels.
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This problem has plagued my '85 Tbird Turbo Coupe for about a month. When I put my car in neutral while moving, the RPMs fall significantly below idle and then the engine usually catches itself and after about 5-10 seconds idles normally. If I do this at high speed (say 40 mph +), the RPMs fall to the point where the engine stalls and dies. If I do it at 25-40 mph, it will go down about 200-500 RPMs and then catch itself. If I do it at 15-20 mph, it will be just barely noticeable, and anything slower than that I can't notice it. It will also do this to some extent when I'm stopped if I rev the engine up really high and let it off, but it is far less noticeable. This car has had extensive work done to it in the past 6 months.
Most recently, I had the fuel injectors replaced, throttle body cleaned, IAC valve cleaned, and the vehicle searched for vacuum leaks. (most of that in search of the solution to this problem as well as to improve the general performance of the vehicle. A week before that, I also had a new fuel tank, fuel pump, and fuel filter installed. I've got a very small leak on the back of my muffler, no cat, and no other exhaust leaks I can find. I am getting a lot of black carbon out of the exhaust, but I have been running some fuel system cleaner through it. Also, the car sat for like 8 years before I got it, and the original cat became clogged and really gunked stuff up. I had all of the upper engine gaskets replaced, as much as we could get to cleaned internally, and the cat cut off at that point. Timing is very close to 10btdc. Could be 9.5, but just about right there. I double checked, no vacuum leaks that I could find with a can of carb cleaner. I tried checking for codes, but it's not even throwing me a confirmation code or anything, which is odd. But, my connector was pretty gummed up (I did clean it as good as I could) and just about anything wiring is suspect. I used two engine code readers that had previously been used on the car. Other than this, the car has plenty of power and runs fine down the road.
Here's the master list of what I've replaced in the past 6mo:
FUEL SYSTEM Fuel Pump (twice) Fuel Pressure Regulator Fuel Tank Fuel Injectors
ASSORTED FILTERS Fuel Filter (twice) Air Filter Oil Filter (several times) Oil Filler Cap PCV Valve
HOSES/COOLANT SYSTEM Nearly every Vacuum Hose Every Coolant Hose Heater Core (twice)
SENSORS AND COMPUTER STUFF Engine Control Module (ECM) Vane Air Meter (VAM) Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) Oxygen Sensor
STARTING SYSTEM/ELECTRIC/Misc. Spark Plugs and Wires (Motorcraft) Starter Solenoid Coil Pack Distributor
TFI Module Distributor Cap and Rotor Battery Timing Belt
EEC Relay Ignition Switch Tires Front Brakes Brake Master Cylinder (had previously been damaged) Front tie-bars Every gasket from the head up.
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord Coupe EX V4, there is this chirping sound coming from under the hood it sounds like its coming from the section in front of the driver s seat. I hear it when I apply the breaks or even if I am just driving normally but once I put the car in park I don t hear anything. It sounds like birds chirping and sometimes it sounds for a little bit other times it is consistent. So it basically sounds if I am driving, braking, at a red light but it doesn't really sound when I put it in park. I assumed it was the driving belt but that's located towards the front of the hood on the passenger side maybe I am hearing it wrong but to me it sounds like its coming from the driver s front section area of the front hood. I literally just bought this used car with 80k mileage.
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I have a 2001 Accord coupe with 148K on it. This car is very well maintained as we perform all services and oil changes on time. During the past 2 months, the car has not wanted to start 5 times. When this started happening the car would crank quickly, strong battery, and would fire after the fourth or fifth attempt. The last 2 times the car would not start. I came back later and it cranked right up.
Yesterday I drove the car in the early morning and parked it all day. When I came back around 4 it would not start. I cranked it repeatedly about 6 - 8 times, not joy... So I came back this morning and it cranked right up. The car drives very smoothly with good power and no missing ignition. We had this in the shop last week and they found nothing wrong but cleaned the throttle body and replaced the plugs.
We can't use this car now for anything other than local trips to the store until the issue is resolved. My wife thinks it has something to do with sitting in the warm sun, although we live in Maine and it doesn't get hot like down south. Looks like that is the only trend we can see at present.
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I recently just bought a 2011 LX 570, when is the fuel light supposed to come on? I drove it till it said 15 miles to empty and still nothing. Just want to make sure it works.
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So I changed my oil today and added about 9.8 - 9.9 quarts. There was just a little left in the second 5 quart jug. I carefully added some oil while checking the dip stick frequently. I made sure the level was just at (maybe a hair above) the top dot on the dip stick. After that, I went out for a spirited drive.
Now 4 hours later, when the car is relatively cool, I checked the level again. However, the level is now significantly higher than before. It's definitely past the top dot, not by a lot, but definitely more than before.
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