Mazda6 :: 2004 - White Smoke From Under The Hood And Temp Gauge Spiked
Mar 12, 2016
2004 Mazda6 V6 auto with 220,000 miles on it. Yesterday, in rush hour traffic on the highway, saw a puff of white smoke from under the hood. Tried to get over to the right- by the time I got over, I'd passed the last exist before the Baltimore Harbor Tunnel.so had to keep driving till I could find a safe spot to pull over.
Temperature gauge spiked, so I turned on the heat, on full- and got cold air coming out. Temp gauge then dropped to cold, and all dashboard warning lights lit up. Small antifreeze puddle under car.....had it towed home. Truck driver was able to get it started long enough to roll it off the truck into parking area.
How badly I damaged engine by continuing to drive the 2 miles through tunnel?
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I have been having a problem with my 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4. It started about 2 months ago. I was in traffic (truck hadn't even been on for 15 minutes). The temp gauge spiked, so I pulled over and turned the truck off. I turned the ignition on and the gauge was normal so I started it and all was fine.
Fast forward a little and every so often about every 3 weeks it would overflow (coolant) but not get to the point that it would overheat. I changed the thermostat and all seemed good to go. Fast forward to yesterday morning. Got in the truck and left to go hunting, and I didn't even make it 10 minutes down the road when I turned the heat on and it blew cold.
I started to see the gauge creep up so I pulled over and shut it down. Upper hose was cold, lower is cold and both heater hoses are cold. After some time of waiting, I started it but the gauge kept creeping up and no heat, so I kept shutting it down. After about 5x of this, the heat worked and the upper hose got hot and all was right with the world. SO I drove it home. Coolant is new, flushed about a month ago and was running great since then. Thermostat is new. Do I have a blockage somewhere? Water pump bad?
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I drive a 2004 Hyundai sonata. Last time i had an oil change they told me there is a small oil leak. I have yet to fix the leak due to lack of funds. I drove to work today and a co worker noticed after i got out of the vehicle that there was white smoke coming from the hood. I have checked my oil and my coolant and both seem to be fine. I have not checked the resivour yet( should i? ) My question is do you think the oil leak is what is causing the white smoke along with a slight burning smell? Or possibly another issue? I am having it check this weekend however until then i wondered what i could do to avoid overheating if you think that may be the cause of the smoke as well?
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My girlfriend has a 2004 Toyota Camry SE, 2.4, 4 cly, with 198k miles. All maintenance has been done per book guidance since she has owned the car. The other day the car began running really rough on her way home. as soon as she put it into park and lowered rpm the car stalled out. temperature gauge did not read hot, but noticed white steam comes from hood when i seen she pulled up, Opened hood let cool down and coolant looked nasty as heck. So I did coolant flush and replaced the thermostat as per advised from parts store. Did not make a difference because during test drive, half mile down the road, car temperature gauge was reading hot. Shut the car down waited 10 to 15 minutes and drove back home.
Altogether drove roughly 10 miles max in hot condition is stop and cool down and go again mode. Also note, this is the first time using a forum of this sort. Along with, I'm not a mechanic as some are, but I know my way around a tool box no problems. I'm on the verge of just ordering new water pump, belts, fans, fan relays switches, radiator and all since I'm going to be in there to fix it anyways.
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I've got this weird problem , it started a month ago. Sometimes I would drive for half a hour, park the car, stop then engine and some white smoke comes out of the hood after a few seconds. But sometimes I can drive the same amount of time, park, stop the engine but no white smoke.
The only time I did notice it happening is when my temperature gauge isn't working properly , sometimes it will give the right reading (which is right on the middle) and while driving it will drop to 0. Also sometimes there is a smell of rubber burning I think (Doing my best here). But I've checked Google for people with my problem but all I read is either people with tail pipes issues or smoke directly in the drivers cabin. My white smoke is only when I kill the engine. There is no smoke coming out of the tail pipe nor in my cabin. Only a rubber burn kind of smell.
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My wife just sent me a text saying she noticed her car (2005 Elantra GT, auto, 140k) making a chugging sound and then saw white smoke coming from under the hood on her way to class.
I'm at work, so I'm trying to pinpoint the problem from my office, but I'm guessing the white smoke is the result of a coolant leak? Bad seal somewhere? What would cause the chugging that's related to a coolant leak? Or maybe it's not coolant-related at all.
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Yesterday I made a 3 hour round trip with my car, and on the last leg coming back into town, I noticed my check engine light came on, and I saw white smoke coming from underneath the hood of my car, along with a burning smell. Luckily I was able to make it home just fine. I've googled this issue, some people have suggested coolant leak.
Also, I checked the oil levels today and they appeared to be slightly below the lowest level tick, which could be why it was having issues yesterday. Last time I got an oil change was November of 2015. I'm surprised it's this low considering I normally don't commute farther than a couple miles each day.
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I have a 2006 v6 ford mustang and just developed this problem yesterday.
When I drive the car, the temp guage stay right in the middle, but when I park I get white smoke come from under the hood. I popped the hood and saw coolant leaking from where the top radiator hose meets the engine block. This was producing the smoke. When I checked the hoses, the top hose was hot and hard, the bottom hose was cool and soft.
Extra info:1. I did not touch the radiator to see if there were cool or warm spots2. The overflow bottle looked empty or close to it, but the engine was still hot from driving to work
Thinking this could be one of the following:
1. bad thermostat
2. clogged radiator
3. Air bubble somewhere blocking the coolant flow
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I have a 2005 gen 2 Prius, 106k miles. Recently in Florida, we had a heavy rainstorm, and I happened to drive it through a flash flooded road. Water was deep enough to reach my headlights. I was out within 10 seconds, then had my car towed. There was a clicking sound and white smoke (steam?) coming from under the hood. The car would start, and I could drive it if I wanted to. After talking to a mechanic, he said to let it sit for 30 minutes with the engine on. Like magic, it started to work like normal, check engine light went away.
Drove fine for 2 days, then the check engine light came back on. Had the codes read at autozone: P0103, and P0031. One day later, my car stalled out while I was driving, and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. Red triangle, yellow exclamation, brake, abs, "problem" on mfd, etc. This site has saved me before, so I came on and thought it could be the MAF sensor. I cleaned it with MAF cleaner, but no luck. I order a new sensor, still no luck. My car stalls out seconds after starting it up. I cleaned my throttle body, still nothing.
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I have a 2002 VW MK4 1.8t. It has 172,000 miles on it. Since i bought the car i have had to add coolant from time to time due to leaks from various plastic coolant parts so I replaced the crappy plastic connectors and flanges as they failed but it has never overheated till a couple days ago. It rose up to about 210'F but I didn't let it get to 260'F (aka the red zone).
While the temperature was up, the coolant was spraying everywhere causing white smoke under the hood. I stopped and looked under the hood and came up with the conclusion it was the coolant flange that holds the temp sensor since it was leaking coolant from the flange like a faucet hince the reason it caused it to overheat due to lost of pressure and no coolant in the system. So I replaced the part and gaskets then checked for other obvious leaks.
No leaks are shown nowhere else in the vehicle. So I added coolant to the car and let the cooling system do its magic as i left the heater on high. Let car idle with cap off and heater on for about 45 minutes. No signs of overheating. So I take the car for a spin and that's when the car starts heating up. I look under the hood and feel hoses and notice all are pressurized but top hose that leads to coolant flange is hot and the bottom hose connected to thermostat is cold.
I checked the return hose that leads up to the coolant reservoir to see if it's cycling and it appears it was. At low rpms the return hose had a steady flow and at high rpms it was flowing much rapidly. Which made me think it wasn't the water pump also this car with that many miles wouldn't have lasted with the plastic impellar this long if it wasn't already swapped out by previous owners. My question is what would cause it to still overheat? I forgot to note the fans did not turn on when the temperature was rising unless i turned the a/c on. But i still did a drive test with a/c on and it still overheated. I also did multiple burp cycles. I have invested alot of money in custom work and suck to leave it parked on the drive way.
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I am having a problem with rough starts/ normal starts. This issue is intermittent. Once in a while when turning on the car I'll get white smoke and a pop noise from under the hood on the driver side. It smells electrical in nature. Other times like 80% of the time it starts normal. Also I have an issue with some of the cluster panel being lit while other are dimmed slightly. What is the cause of this problem? Where should I start to look to fix these issues? 2001 Impala LS 3.8L .........
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Light film of white smoke from the right side of the hood wheel underneath the passenger wheel an slightly from the front no antifreeze in vehicle at the moment car parked an not driven since the altercation.
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My mom was driving to pick me up and she said that all of a sudden about half way here that the car started making a knocking sound and white smoke started coming from hood, the car was also trying to shut itself down while she was trying to pull over. It is a 2000 ford taurus with like 130k. I am so scared that it is the head gasket because my mom, myself and my daughter, and my 16 year old sister all share that car to get around. Is there anything else it could be besides that or is that probably what it is?
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I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey touring model. Recently I had it serviced at the Honda dealership. In addition to my requested front end alignment and oil and filter change, they talked me into a radiator flush, fuel inj. service, air filter replacements and battery service. I drove the car home after wards even filling up with gas before going home. This drive was about 55 miles. I never noticed any problems. The next day, I left for Montghomery AL towing a trailer with a motorcycle trike on it. We stopped for lunch and continued. The car suddenly started making a grinding noise from engine compartment and suddenly white smoke started coming out from the hood. I immediately pulled over and we got out of the car for fear of fire. This was the first time I had any indication of a problem.
After a short time, I opened the hood to see what was wrong and noticed that the radiator cap was sitting upside down next to opening. I had the vehicle towed to Chattanooga where I was told there was serious damage to the engine. I had them repair it (they were an AAA approved towing and repair shop). I also took pictures of the engine compartment. I went back to the dealership and asked to be reembursed for my expenses and the cost of repairs and the owner refused. He said he didn't believe they left the cap off and since he started out in the service department he didn't believe the car could even go that far without overheating. My question is: Is it possible for a 2007 Honda Odyssey to travel approximately 220 miles over two days before overheating and wrecking the engine if the radiator cap was left off and/or if no fluid was even added and the radiator cap was left off?
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I have a 97 Ford Ranger / 2.3L / 4 cylinder (L4) / 5 speed manual / XL Supercab / 140k miles. I had been having some Check Engine issues and ran rough in town stop light to stop light. But was fine on the highway.
On several visits to the parts store, their OBD tester showed:
PO303 (Cyl 3 misfire detected)
PO141 Bank 1 Sensor 2 O2 Sensor (heater circuit malfunction)
PO171 Bank 1 Combustion Too Lean (the most recent new code to show up)
And the following would show up sometimes, but other times not:
PO 402 EGR Flow - Excessive Detected
P1409 EVR (I cant remember the exact error message for this)
Regards the PO141 code, O'Reilly's sold me a Bosch O2 Sensor (Bosch 15719) and the sales rep told me it was the sensor closer to the engine. And with the attached cable length on the sensor showed was indeed the sensor closest to the engine. But I've been advised the Sensor 2 is for the 'downstream' sensor, furthest away from the engine. And the other sensor, that I replaced is the upstream sensor. And the error continued.
Then back issues showed up and I had back surgery this past year and thus drove the vehicle sparingly. Never resolving the check engine issues. (My bad). Ran on the highway ran fairly well. But recently noticed longer acceleration times and unable to top 65 in 5th gear. I bought spark plugs and plug wires and had plans to change next week.
Yesterday as driving down the Interstate, was 90 miles into my trip, I noticed loss of power even in fourth gear. (note it was the hottest day of the year at 100F). It seemed I used more gas than usual for that distance. I stopped for gas on the Interstate and power seemed to improve. Then about 130 miles into my trip I hit some heavy stop and go traffic, and wasn't able to keep an idle and the engine died numerous times if/when I didn't give it gas at a dead stop. The heavy stop and go heavy traffic and the issues persisted for a half hour for more than five miles. Then when traffic opened up the truck seemed to have a bit more power in 4th gear again. And up to that time all my dash gauges were showing fine. Then a couple miles or so down the interstate, driving 65mph in the inside lane, the check engine light started flashing quickly. And at the same time a sudden loss of power, rough sounding engine with heavy white smoke coming under the hood. And looked back in rear view mirror, with nothing but heavy white smoke. Managed to cross three lanes in heavy traffic and was able the vehicle to the outside emergency lane, finally coming to a stop.
Looked under the hood and saw oil dripping everywhere but with all the oil everywhere I could not find a prime source. Looked like the oil came from the top end of the engine and dripped down. Measured the oil at the dipstick and it seemed like I was at least a quart plus down (I checked the oil before I left on the trip). And it didn't look like any water was in the oil. And my radiator overflow tank was at the proper level. So I figured I lost all that oil during that period of "white smoke".
So had my vehicle towed home. Today in daylight, I did some more inspection and removed the air intake system (hoses and canister) from the air filter to the throttle body. There was significant oil up to the canister piece that fits on the air filter canister (but no oil in the actual air filter), and significant oil inside all the hoses up to inside the throttle body (up to the butterfly which I could see),
When I disconnected these hoses I noticed the blow-by hose connected to the intake hose system was not connected to anything. And a tube opening on the valve cover was open without the a blow-by hose attached and, with no clamp. So I assume all that oil and came out of that blow-by tube on the valve cover, (white smoke created by hot oil hitting the engine).
So appears to me that its not a blown head gasket or worse, which I first feared.
I have the vehicle parked at home.
QUESTIONS: So what are the suggested steps to troubleshoot and repair? Besides reattaching everything and putting a clamp on the blow by hose? And installing new spark plugs and plug wires. I previously replaced plug wires around 60k, even though the manual recommended 100k mile replacement. (And a couple yeas back I had the dealer replace the PCV, which was recommended in the manual and included in the warranty. The timing of the initial check engine lights appeared shortly thereafter).
Is there suppose to be a large amount of oil in the air intake system after an incident like this and should I try to clean/flush out the hoses and the inline canister?
When I disconnected the inline canister from the hoses in the air intake system, unfortunately I failed to document the direction which the canister goes. It has outside markings "ADP with a forward arrow with some horizontal lines, and then at the other end upside down markings with a greater sign PP less than sign. Should the forward arrow point toward the throttle body or toward the air filter (I'm thinking in the direction of air flow, toward the throttle body). I've taken some photos of the engine with air intake hose system unattached, if that might work...
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Let's start from the beginning. 3 months ago, I replaced my oil pan, and since then I've noticed that white smoke would randomly blow out of my exhaust- A couple times when I really got on her, and a few times when sitting idling for 10-15 minutes.
Two days ago, I was driving and about to hop on the highway to make my 40 minute commute home, realized that my temp had gone up about an eighth over 190 (usually stone cold centered)... Watched it for another 2 minutes and the temp was 3/4 of the way to the red, so I pulled over and popped the hood.
The coolant reservoir was COMPLETELY empty, which didn't really make any sense- I had been running my AC all day because it was hot out, but I don't think I was idling with the AC on for too long.
I let her cool off, had a friend bring me some coolant (not much at all) and a TON of water. Filled her up and went home; temp was trying to climb but I wouldn't accelerate too much so she wouldn't go much higher than that eighth over the 190 mark.
Next morning, dropped her off at a mechanic's before work, asked for an oil change, inspection, and to check out this temp issue. These guys told me that they ran a compression test and everything was okay, no leaks or cracks in any hoses so it is a faulty turbo. They also stated that in idle, there seems to be intermittent white smoke out of the exhaust- coolant burning, obviously).
Drove it from them to a spot nearby to let her cool off because I wanted to see if there was more white smoke.. Driving TO the location, I blew A LOT of white smoke on acceleration, I had the heat blasting the entire time so the temp didn't really rise too much.
I'm hoping it's not the turbo, reading up on these issues in here it could be a number of things, but the ONLY reason why I don't want to spend a fortune on replacing the turbo right now is because one or two mechanics i spoke to today said it's not the turbo, but 3 others said it was...
I have no loss of power, no hesitation, and no abnormal sounds from the turbo. Actually, she sounds amazing. I don't however thing it's a head gasket because the dipstick and oil cap aren't milky.
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Massive amounts of white smoke (fuel) when engine is getting up to operating temp. It clears up for the most part when its fully warmed up. It sounds like its hitting on all 8. Runs great for the most part. Do I need to go to a dealer to pull codes. Ive gone to auto zone for there code read and addressed a egr valve issue. It is cleaned and unplugged for now.
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My '97 F250 5.4L is pumping coolant on to the top of the motor which is burning off causing it to smoke like it's overheated but the temp gauge is operating in normal range. I'm losing coolant but can't see where. It's not going to the ground. It just pools up on the top of the motor. I've already replaced the water pump in the last 2 weeks because of the same issue. It stopped for a few days but now it's back again. Bad water pump from O'Reily's or is there some other issue here? I've checked while the motor's running and can't see where the coolant is coming from and there's no coolant coming out of the bleed hole in the top of the new water pump. I need this truck up and running.
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I have a 2007 Mazda 6 with 133000 miles on it. Recently it has started making a very loud sound that comes from under the hood. The sounds is comparable to the sound a semi truck makes if it is idling. The noise is not constant, usually happens when I put the car in park or if I'm driving at low speed (under 20mph). The sound lasts around one minute.
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I have a 2004 passat 1.8t which currently blows heavy white smoke from the tailpipe; coolant in oil and vise versa; when I open the oil fill cap / dipstick white smoke blows from there also. At first I thought it was the head gasket so I replaced it and resurfaced the head. What i noticed was burned oil on the sides inside the head. After putting everything together the smoke never quit blowing and after couple of hours the fluids mixed again. After reading the forums I took off the oil cooler and tested it by submerging it under water and hooking compressed air to the water lines -- no bubbles came out of the sides. Maybe I tested it wrong while the it is the oil cooler all along? Could it be cracked head? block?
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I was driving my 2004 Jetta Tdi manual the other day and everything was fine. I stopped at a stop sign and began to go when suddenly i lost power like I was out of fuel only that was not the case. I looked behind me and saw lots of white smoke puffing behind me. I pulled over immediately and checked the oil (a little low), air filter (still pretty and white), coolant (clean and clear). I added a little oil and drove home very slowly and kept the RPMs as low as possible. There was no engine noise that I could tell.
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