Mazda - Protege :: 2000 - Won't Start / Sometimes Sputters And Lopes Before Just Stops Firing
May 4, 2012
I have a 2000 Mazda Protege LX with 38k miles on it and a 1.6L engine and it starts fine in the morning to go to work and starts fine in the afternoon to go home from work. If I get home and change clothes, hop in the car to go somewhere, it won't start, turns over like it's out of gas, sometimes sputters and lopes before it just stops firing. It seems to only do this in the afternoon, specifically between 3pm and 5pm, never after dark or in the morning. I can drive all day long as long as I don't cut off the engine.
After sitting for about fifteen to thirty minutes, it will start like nothing ever happened. So far, it only does it once per day. After I get it started in the afternoon, I can seem to go anywhere, stop as many times as needed, and it keeps starting every time. It seems to be getting more frequent as the weather warms, never did it in January or February, but so far has done it every time I try to start it when the temp is around 80 or higher. I get no engine light, temp gauge is normal.
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I think I broke my car. I just bought this car a few months ago and all seemed well. I bought new tires, changed the oil, had the brakes inspected, you know the things daddy's tell their daughters to always be sure of. I have had no problems with the car till last weekend. My boyfriend and I got into an argument, long story short I sped off, using his words "hot rod style".
I smelt burned rubber (not so new tires anymore) but I figured it was just that. When I got back home my boyfriend said that he smelt something burning under the hood. No smoke or fire just a burning odor. The next morning my car wouldn't start. We jumped it and it ran just fine. Did the errands for the day no problem.The next morning it wouldn't turn on again, this time when we jumped it, it just wouldn't start. I have checked the battery at AutoZone and they said it was fine. the fuses are all good as well.
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2000 Mazda Protege 1.6l Just replaced timing belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, plugs and coil packs
I have checked the timing about 10 times before puting everything back together by rotating the engin clockwise. No stiff point and marks lining up perfectly every time.
Though when I turn the key in the ignition, the engine cranks but doesn't start.
Can't really check the sparks cause I am on my own, but seems like the spark plugs in 1 and 3 are wet with fuel and 2 and 4 are dry.
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I have a 2000 Mazda Protege ES (1.8L) with 120k+ miles and an automatic transmission. The car drives well at speed, but when sitting at stops it will shake a little, sometimes worse than others. Often the RPMs drop to below the lowest tick for a split second before recovering, very much like when driving a manual transmission and not pressing the clutch in enough. Even when the RPMs are steady at a stop, it shakes enough to rattle a couple of the plastic parts in the dashboard.
Recent history (some likely unrelated, but I'm no expert):New air hose (one from the air filter to the engine) in September. RPMs were falling at idle more often than they are now, there was a decent sized crack in the hose. RPMs stopped falling as often, but has idled roughly before and after.New radiator and thermostat in April (overheated on the interstate and cracked open).New spark plugs and wires last fall after one cylinder wasn't firing.For the last couple years every fall when it starts to get cold, the alternator belt squeaks and I tighten the bolt a little each morning until it stops (usually after 2 days, maybe 3 - the alternator itself is on a long bolt that adjusts the belt tension).Every 5k miles I have the oil changed with high mileage oil and tires rotated/balanced.
I took it to a garage a couple weekends ago after the check engine light had come on earlier in the week. I reset the computer and the light never came back on, so I lost the chance to have the code read, but there weren't any other symptoms beyond what I'm used to. The mechanics at the shop said they couldn't find anything specific causing the rough idle and suggested replacing some or all of the motor mounts, which are weak. They didn't seem confident that would fix the problem, and neither am I, as I don't see how weak motor mounts would explain the low RPMs as well as the shaking.
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My car just started making a wheezing kind of noise when accelerating. Reminds me of wind being forced through a small hole, or the sound of a balloon being aired up.
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I have a 1999 Mazda Protege. As of last summer it started giving me problems with not wanting to start after I had driven it around town for a little while. (IE: to the grocery store, to the bank and then to my sister's house. It wouldn't give me the same problem if I just went to the grocery store and back home. It would start up fine and I'd be on my way. Only when I went somewhere and shut it off then repeated that a couple more times.) I took it to a mechanic who wholeheartedly believed it was the coil packs not allowing my car to function properly.
So we replaced those and everything seemed on the up and up. (Keep in mind that this was towards the end of summer and the temperature was dropping.) The car was perfect all throughout the fall and winter, but now that the temperature outside is starting to rise again it's beginning to do the same thing it did last summer. I don't want to take it to another mechanic that's going to have me dish out an extravagant amount of money again only for the problem to persist.
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I have a 1998 Mazda Protege LX 1.5 L 4 Cylinder and i have been having some starting issues, and stalling at stop lights.
To be clear i have replaced/cleaned, Injectors, Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Distributor Cap, Distributor Coil, Air Filter, Cleaned MAF, Cleaned the EGR Valve,
My car won't start in the morning, just gives cranks but if I press gas pedal it starts and have to keep it until engine gets hot enough. then it works till the car cools down again, and repeat the problem in the morning when I have to go to work. When the car is warm it starts fine but has idle issues regardless of temperature. As usual when the engine is cold or cool, it won't start.
Visited 2 different mechanic shops and the problem still exist, I don't know how and what they did it, it only worked for couple of months and the engine noise was bit high, I believe he just increased the idle, When i am at stop lights it has a rough idle and tries to die, When it idles it idles rough, Every once in a while I get a CEL Cylinder Misfire on cylinder 4. I'm confused on want to do , Don't know what else to do and its getting tiring, The car also feels like a lack of power.
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I have a 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege that is having a stalling problem. The motor has about 30k miles on the block with around 3k miles on the internal components (rods, pistons, cams, etc.). Cylinders were bored 20 over and head was machined.
This stalling, or almost stalling, problem occurs when I start the car after it's been warm for awhile. For example, if I were to drive for an hour, park it for 45 minutes, and then come back out to start it up. It'll fire up, drop to idle, and then the idle will dip, stalling 50% of the time. The rough idle lasts anywhere from 5 to 20 seconds, and then usually fixes itself.
Giving it some gas does nothing to alleviate the problem; sometimes making it worse. Cleaning the idle air control valve solved this for a few days, and then it was back to its old ways. These symptoms do not occur on cold starts or if I restart the car after 5 or 10 minutes of it sitting. We couldn't find any vacuum leaks and there are no codes being displayed.
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It's a 2002 Mazda Protege... The car shut off once while running in the driveway. Completely: engine, radio, everything. I took the key out and put it back in a couple of times and got nothing, no click, no turning over. Did it one more time, and it started up as if nothing was wrong.
Then again the next morning. Car won't start. I notice all the electronics are working while the key is in the accessories position. They shut off as soon as the key is in On, and nothing when turning to start. Took the key out, waited a minute or so, then tried again and everything worked as if nothing was wrong. I'm guessing this might be the ignition switch?
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I recently noticed a humming noise coming from the passenger side on my Mazda Protege 2000 ES . I suspected it was the water pump, so I took the car to my mechanic. He inspected the coolant reservoir and it was empty. He also checked the noise and the area were the pump is, and told me that the water pump had to be replaced.
My dad told me that his 1994 Sentra had the water pump replaced but none of these things had to be done and that it was unnecessary. But then I thought, every car is different.
I was in shock with how much the repair would cost, so he then gave me another quote with just the timing belt and water pump replacement for $503, but this time he said that he will not give me any warranty for the repairs because of the tensioner.
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I recently purchased a 2000 7.3, when it's started cold it's lopes at start up unless I give it some gas and then it's perfectly fine. If the truck is plugged into the engine block heater it starts normal. I changed the oil the day after I bought it and put 15w-40 in it and then the rough idle started. So I don't know if it was like this before or because of the thicker oil I put into in the cold. It also has a service engine soon light on and the code that comes up when read is to the icp sensor. When looking st the sensor the blue wire going to it looks cut and is disconnected. How would I reconnect these wires and see if that makes the check engine light go off.
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1995 Mazda Protege1.5 LAuto153K miles.
My car was running fine, then one day it started sputtering while driving, mostly when I accelerated. It stalled and I could not get it started. This happened on a day when it was raining hard, but not sure that had anything to do with it. A few days later when I went to pick the car up it started right up, it had stopped raining and been dry for 2 days prior. But about a mile into the drive back home it stalled and I could not get it started.
Here is what I have tested so far.
- Put in new fuel filter.
- Tested the fuel pressure and pressure regulator
- Tested the injectors with a noid light.
- Tested that the spark plugs were producing a spark.
After I pulled the plugs and cleaned and dried them (they were wet with gas) the car started, but I think not because of anything really related to the plugs. What I've noticed is that when cranking the engine if I give it gas it will not start but if I keep off the throttle it will reluctantly start. But once it starts the idle is smooth and as it should be. Then if I give it any gas it immediately stalls. It seems to me given these symptoms that it is getting enough air to idle but not enough air to match the increased gas.
The only CEL code that I'm getting (which I had before this issue occurred) is the "closed throttle position switch" (I forget the number). If it was an MAF, or IAC, or EGR issue would I not get a code? What this could be and how to test it. Again my guess is its an air intake issue but not sure where.
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every few days, the battery stops charging and dies.... tested the alternator, and that provides a charge...tested the battery, and that takes a charge... the car runs off the battery or alternator...tested and replaced all wires between alternator and battery... cannot figure out what is wrong.
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I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent hatchback with 98k miles. About a month ago we were headed out of town and got gas about a mile away from the house. After filling up, the car wouldn't start. It would crank but not fire. Tried for about 15mins to no avail. Had it towed to local mechanic and it started right away. They kept it for the weekend and said they had no problems starting it, so without experiencing the problem they said they would just be throwing parts at it.
About 2 weeks after my wife drove to store and when she went to leave and same experience, but this time it started after trying for a couple of mins. Then just this Tuesday it wouldn't start in the morning. When it just cranks but not fire it shows a pending P0335 (crankshaft position sensor). So I ordered the part (won't arrive til Friday). When I got home I tried to start it as well to no avail; tried again Wednesday morning and evening, nothing. Then this morning (Thursday) it starts right up. Once its started it runs great. After recurrence of no start 2 weeks ago, I replaced spark plugs and spark plug wires.
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So my wife drove her car all day yesterday, everything fine. This morning went to start and it wouldn't. It turns over fine just not firing.
Now during the summer I had replace the fuel pump/filter before discovering that was not the issue.
I know you are already thinking CPS!.. I replaced that over the summer.
I have not checked the spark yet, kinda hard to do that one by yourself.
Beyond spark I am not sure what else could be wrong, especially because it was running fine last night. Is it common for accents to have issues in 20 degree weather?
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I'm fixing my mother's Ford Explorer 2000 it turns over but won't start it sputters and everyone smile you hear what sounds like a small backfire.
it seems to be getting good spark I can get it to start for a little while and run on either. So I'm assuming the plugs and wires are working well they look good. When I tested the spark it looks very good.
ECM fuses look good able to use a scanner Jump fuel relay and can hear pump run I made sure there is gas in the gas tank
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Have 2002 mazda protege 5 . During acceleration at 3000 rpm the engine hesitates. Computer said o2 sensor, replaced it but that wasn't it. Drilled out both catalytic, that wasn't it. Found hole in mass air flow tube, figured that is it. I haven't replaced that yet, however I used gorilla tape thinking it would be a temporary fix but that didn't work. I know I need to replace that tube, but think that it may now be a fuel pump issue??
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2000 Mazda Protege ES 1.8L
What's a good way to find whats the cause of all the rattling and knocking in the front end of my car when going over uneven terrain? It seems that noise appears only if one of the wheels is lifted up a little bit. I am attaching a picture describing the "motion" here:
Steering wheel doesn't shake when driving at high speeds and is fairly stiff, but it does pull to the right a bit, maybe because I didn't perform a front end alignment (I know this is not good) after I had most of the stuff in the suspension of the replaced; all 4 struts + boots + mounting blocks, ball joints, control arms...
Now the only part, I didn't replace was the sway bar link on the passenger side and it's being knocking for 3 years. The one on the driver side was replaced at the time the struts were replaced but I didn't have enough money to pay for the other one.
Another mechanic told me when I was quoting that sway bar links aren't really necessary as a safety feature, and a google search showed me that there are people that just take the sway bar off the car, so I left it there and just tried to live with the noise. now I am noticing the driver side is knocking as well, and I am wondering if it has to do with because I didn't replace the one in the passenger side?
I just want to rule out the possibility of another component being the cause of the noise because I am prioritizing safety over ride comfort in my attempts to save some money.
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it was over 100 degrees today in Lawrence, Kansas and on the way home from work, the air conditioner stopped making cool air. Hot air now comes out. This is a different problem that the poster before me seems to have. Mazda Protégé, 1996, 128,000 plus miles on it.
A reconditioned one was installed in 2006, compressor replaced in July, 2012.
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I read here that some tire noise can be caused by bad belts. How do you know if the tire belt is bad? My tires get loud between 20 and 40 mph. Mechanic says the tires are OK but to replace them to get rid of the noise.
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Basically, my car (2002 Mazda Protege) has been acting like my brakes are engaged. Not all the time, though - The first time I get out and drive it, it drives smooth as silk like always. But then after I put it in park and then get back in and head out (I'm a delivery driver, so this is constant), sometimes it feels like the brakes are constantly being pressed. No, the emergency brake is not on. Most of the time it's almost not even noticeable so, like an idiot, I put it off for the past week. But today, it was very, very, very bad. I was having to press the gas to the floor to get up to speed, and then it was constantly trying to slow down. My brakes were definitely getting burned up while it was doing this, but luckily it stopped.
It may be unrelated - I know I have an oil leak, but today I saw a very unusual spot where something leaked out in my driveway. I checked my oil, and it was where I expected it to be, but this was a relatively large stain which would be very unlike my current leak.
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