Mazda - Miata :: 2007 - Grooves Inside Rims Of Wheel / Rotational Noise When Drive
Jun 30, 2014
So i was cleaning my 2007 mazda miata and i noticed one wheel has some fairly deep scratched grooves inside of it. I inspected all the other tires and the other front tire has similar marks but they are way way more of a surface/barely there scratches. The rear wheels are not scratched. I am also hearing a rotational noise when i drive. It gets faster as I accelerate and slower when I brake. I don't know anything about cars.
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
I have a Mazda Miata 2001, 152,000 miles. It's developed a metallic scrape from the right rear wheel. When I'm driving about 20 mph it sounds like a scritch every half-a-second or so, and if I'm going faster it just blurs into a metallic scrape. When I tap the brakes, it usually stops, and then it'll come back a little bit later (maybe when I hit a bump?) It comes and goes, but it seems to be more persistent now (or maybe I'm just always listening for it).
I took the wheel off and sprayed brake cleaner everywhere and I thought that had fixed it, but it came back again after a week maybe.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2007 Honda Pilot. 65K Miles.
Several months ago, when turning left, regardless of speed, my wife starting hearing a noise. It is not a knocking or harsh grinding noise, but a low grumble (I don't have a great word for it). It's definitely rotational, it doesn't get any louder as speed increases, but it obviously happens more often. It seems to come from the right side of the car, I originally thought it was from the wheel, but just now I had it jacked up and had a neighbor who works on cars look at it with me and now I'm not so sure.
When I described the problem to him, he first thought it was a CV joint, or possibly ball bearing. After a few minutes looking under the hood, he quickly ruled those out. Boots were in great condition, and he remarked that everything seems to be very solid around the wheel.
I thought that noise was a result of weight shift to the right side of the vehicle when making right-hand turns, but we had the car up on two jacks stands placed on the jack braces, turned the car on and gave it some gas with the wheels turned left, and you can definitely hear the noise with zero weight on the wheels or axles. When you straighten the wheel, the noise subsides.
View 12 Replies
I have a 2007 Mazda Miata that I just found standing water under the passenger seat. Took it to dealership the drain is plugged if I had brought the car in when under warranty they would have done the retrofit it needs to fix their lousy design problem for free. I am trying to talk to Mazda and the dealership about them fixing the problem for free. They issued a in house service bulletin but not to the public.
View 6 Replies
I've got a '94 Mazda miata which is in good shape, with among other things a fair number of suspension upgrades. It drives really well, other than the clunk. On the occasional bump it clunks as if something is loose on the driver's side rear. I've checked the shocks, springs, jacked it up and inspected everything I can think of. I'm looking for wisdom from your decades of experience (in your terms wasted time) on what it might be.
View 3 Replies
Since the Prius is my wife's primary car, I can go a long time without driving. I recently have been driving it more, and it seems to me that it has the sounds of a failing wheel bearing. Between about 30-40 MPH there seems to be a distinct rotational noise that sounds to me like a loud wheel bearing from the front end. The sound seems to get quieter as I go faster, and at 60 mph + it seems normal.
My wife didn't notice any difference, but she drives the car everyday so maybe she didn't notice the gradual increase in noise. I know it's not tire related, because I just swapped tires. When I did, I didn't feel any play in the front bearings or feel any roughness when the wheels were rotated.
View 19 Replies
So, something odd happened to me today while driving. I was getting off a highway after about 250 miles of driving, downshifted from 5th to 4th, and when I hit the gas pedal after shifting, nothing. No acceleration. I shift back to 5th. Still nothing. Try revving in neutral, also nothing. I come to a stop on the exit ramp and try to start the car up. It starts up, hits about 1k rpm and stalls. Gas pedal does nothing still. What's up with this? I had it towed to my shop.
Couple tidbits of info: just had the oil changed three days ago. Checked the oil and it seems fine. I have an aftermarket he's unit in the car and lately, it's been a little wonky. When I put use my automatic windows, sometimes the volume will mute for a sec.
My car is a 2006 Mazda Miata base model. 5 speed manual. Power windows but not locks. No traction control. No cruise control. 40,000 miles. Oil changed regularly with full synthetic.
View 6 Replies
My car often backfires on downshifts. It happens as I?m decelerating in gear, and then blip the throttle to match the higher rpm of the lower gear. The car runs well and is well maintained. The spark plugs, MAF sensor, O2 sensors, and cat are all in good order. I?m confident the air/fuel mixture is working as intended by Mazda (at least under normal driving), so I?m not looking for a mechanical culprit. I?m sure it?s my style and frequency of downshift/rev matching which causes the backfires.
It happens anywhere from 1-2 times a week to 1-2 times a day depending on my driving, or on something like 2-5% of all downshifts. Personally, I rather like excitement of the backfires and the exhaust burble which accompanies them, it makes me feel like I'm in a race car. My question is whether frequent backfiring is going to drastically reduce the life of my catalytic converter and O2 sensors.
I don't mind replacing the cat 5 years from now instead of say 10, but I don?t want to have to replace it within the next 10,000 miles or less. My Miata is a 1999 model with 130,000 miles on it. The exhaust system uses stock manifold and muffler but with an AEM performance intake and monsterflow catalytic converter.
View 6 Replies
My wife has a 2002 Hyundai Elantra that has a rotational noise coming from the left rear wheel. We just got it back from the shop where they replaced the left front wheel bearing and rear brakes/rotors, and the right/rear wheel bearing was replaced about a year ago. It's a thumping noise that speeds up proportionally to the speed of the car. Normally I'd expect a bad tire or warped rotor, but the tires are relatively new and we didn't notice the problem before we took it to the shop last week (though it's possible we weren't hearing it over the wheel bearing noise they fixed). Is it possible we got a bad rotor, or the shop did something wrong? Or could this be something new entirely (which would be entirely typical for this car).
View 1 Replies
Last week the shift got stuck in Park. I used the emergency release button to get into Drive. After this happened several times I took it to the mechanic who said the shift needed replacing. Got a new shift. The problem persists. I get stuck in Park about 1 in 6 times.
View 3 Replies
Problem: car cranks but doesn't start then randomly it will start. 2 different shops...first thought maybe battery (no it cranks) but said these cars are notorious for cam sensor problems they didn't have software to diagnose. Brought to dealership again battery (we were finally beat down and replaced battery) ...then brought home if car sat for a few days totally dead needed jumpstart....brought back to dealer they replaced cam sensor and timing belt...went to pick it up and you guessed it....cranked but didn't start....mechanic came out and it started....so after replacing several parts we are back to the same problem intermittent crank without start...
View 4 Replies
I have this vehicle, which keeps blowing out the catalytic converter, its been replaced 3 times in the last month, and the mechanic doesnt know why, he refuses to put another one on it, until he figures this out.
View 3 Replies
I have a 1990 Mazda Miata, and the AC is not working. It has been switched over to R134a. I took it to a mechanic to have it recharged a few weeks ago. He said that one of the o-rings was cracked and so it was leaking around that. He filled it up and put some stop leak in it and for awhile it seemed to work fine. Then it stopped blowing cold air. I took it to a jiffy lube just to have the level of coolant (correct term?) checked. The person there told me that it was very low and was leaking around the valve stems. I tightened the valve stems and re-filled it. After 24 hours it had stopped blowing cold air again. I got a price quote on a new compressor and it is about $500.
So - my question is this - should I just put a new compressor in or is there something cheaper I could try first?
View 10 Replies
I have a 2006 Prius (150K miles) with a noise coming from the drivers left wheel. It is a hollow metallic squeak that only occurs while the vehicle is moving. It sounds like the wheel is making brief contact with something metallic at the same point on every rotation. The pitch of the squeak increases with the speed of wheel rotation. It does so while rolling, with breaks and without. The noise gets louder when turning right, and softer when turning left, though it begins to get louder again when the wheel is turned hard all the way left.
View 1 Replies
2016 LTD Ultimate, 2700 miles. First and only Hyundai for the moment.
I've experience this one twice, a few weeks apart: cold start the car, and in the first 100 yards or so I'll hear a tapping noise that's clearly rotational, varies with speed but eventually ceases. Sounds like it's coming from front passenger wheel well area, and sounds like a stick or some sort of debris is stuck in the wheel. Both times I've inspected the area and found nothing whatsoever.
I live in an apartment complex area, park in a lot always in reverse so I'm always going from park to drive. The area I live in is wooded ("Pine Barrens" region of Long Island) but the roads are paved so it's not like I'm driving thru wilderness.
View 3 Replies
Car recently acted like it was running on two or three cylinders and cel came on and continued to flash. The shop that did the repairs is no longer a Mazda dealer, but has a factoy trained tech. Don't know the code #, but was told that there was a low voltage code, and a misfire code. The battery was replaced, throttle body cleaned and a new fuel filter installed. The cel came back on about 25 miles later. They rechecked the codes. Said it could be the converter, and cleared the code again. After about 150 miles, the cel came on again but the car ran normal. Talked to the shop again and was told the the converter problem would have to be serviced at a Mazda dealer. The engine did the running on three cylinder thing again. Since then, it seems to run ok but the light is still flashing. If the OEM converters are fragile are there better options for replacement? The car has 30,000 miles.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2013 Subaru Impreza with 23,500 miles on it; all service done at dealer, by the book. Brought car in at 22,212 miles for rotational noise in front right tire area that becomes noticeable at 35 mph and syncs with speed of wheel (especially annoying at highway speeds). tires were at 6/32, inside edge 'slightly chopped'. Alignment was done; right rear toe out of adjustment. the noise remained.
returned to dealer; manager took a ride with, said he heard the noise, said tires (the originals) might be made of softer rubber and wear faster, or it might be a wheel bearing starting to go. he did a visual check of tires and measured tread. they replaced the right bearing. Noise still there.
Returned to dealer, they road tested , heard the noise, ran car on lift and 'traced to center of transmission', ordered a Subaru remanufactured transmission and installed it. the noise remains . I was especially shocked at replacement of transmission! (car is still under warranty so it's not costing me anything but grief and aggravation at no resolution).
I have always felt the problem is at the wheel, but i'm no mechanic. they are the experts. Could it be a problem with defective brake parts that somehow are rubbing or if the lugs are tightened too far could that bend something. I am not a street racer and I drive like I plan to keep the car for a long time!
When I called (after the transmission replacement) about the driver one-touch window not working, the desk guy told me how to reset it (very easy) and said that they'd forgotten to do that. I told him that the noise is still there and he said "well, it could be coming from the roof rack" (I have non-Subaru cross bars on the roof rack and a fairing. I thought that comment was lame as the crossbars have been on since 2013 and I've heard no rotational noise from them. However, to 'rule out', I will remove them and take a drive.
I told desk guy I was going to drive the car for a week or so because conditions have not been optimal with bumpy roads and weather to be completely certain. several days have passed since that conversation; the noise is still there and once I've driven without the crossbars on, the car is going back.I am hoping for feedback on what to tell them to check next.
View 19 Replies
I have a 2007 Prius that had a rotational noise on acceleration. I pinpointed the noise to the transmission area and suspected something was wrong with the electric motor. I took it to a local transmission shop and they disassembled the transmission to replace a bearing.
After repairs, they called me and informed me that the hybrid battery needed to be replaced. I've been driving the car for about a week with the noise and had no indication of a battery problem, or any other problem.
I had them tow the car back to my shop. The hybrid battery was discharged. The battery blocks were all between 10 and 12 volts. The vehicle would move slowly, but the ICE wouldn't start up to charge the battery. It had one DTC for hybrid battery malfunction.
I removed the battery from my own Prius and installed it in the car. The ICE fired up right away and shut off soon after, which would be completely normal in my car. But the engine never started again. I drove a short distance all on electric. The battery bars depleted quickly. Regen braking was not operating. There was a shudder every so often on acceleration. I'm not sure if it's in the transmission or the ICE is attempting to start? There are no DTCs so far.
The screen indicating where the power is going indicates that the engine is ON and delivering power even when it clearly is not. Not sure where to go with this one. It seems really odd that the ICE started once and won't start up. I tried disconnecting the battery and starting over, but the ICE still does not start up. I looked around the transmission for something disconnected, but found nothing.
View 19 Replies
My Miata stalls out on the highway but not on residential streets. If I open the gas tank ,it starts up again. This has happened with a full tank, 1/2 tank and 1/4 tank. How can I fix this?
View 9 Replies
I have a 91 Miata Auto. I bought it from someone that (I think!) never drain auto trans fluid during its 145K mile life. So last year I replaced all the gaskets/filters and tuned up the car. It runs fine except shifting harsh in cold weather. I have to mention that it seem to have no power and goes very slow on first few minutes.I used a pump to suck trans fluid out. It was so dark (even I dropped the trans pan and replaced filter/gasket). Then I pumped Lucas trans fix fluid in and it seem to improve. What should I do more to reduce the harsh shift condition in cold weather? Or is there a booster module need to be replaced?
View 6 Replies
I have a 2001 Miata. It's been over 100 degrees daily lately. The AC will blow sort of cold for about 30 minutes and the temp gauge will move towards the H hashmarks. If I turn the AC off, the gauge will slowly drop. I've also noticed that the amount of cold air is decreasing as time passes. In fact, the other day, the system was blowing air hotter than the outside temperature after about an hour drive.
The viewing glass has bubbling stuff flowing thru it. The recently flushed radiator is full as is the overflow reservoir.
View 2 Replies
