My Miata stalls out on the highway but not on residential streets. If I open the gas tank ,it starts up again. This has happened with a full tank, 1/2 tank and 1/4 tank. How can I fix this?
View 9 Replies Son was unable to fill his car's gas tank, 2002 Elantra (but happens to all cars sometimes).
The vapor lock on the pump kept shutting the gas flow off.
This was caused by the tanks vapor exhaust being unable to exit while filling, so the only place to go was back up through the gas fill hole.
The charcoal filter had sprung a leak so the zillions of tiny little charcoal pellets pour from the filter into the rubber hose clogging it.
The Filter is $150 at Hyundai. Not available at AutoZone or OReilys.
Very simple to replace a couple bolts a few hose clamps.
Strange problem, thats no one at work had encoutnered before. A few Hyundai mechanics had heard of it and worked it before.
Also could be Purge Valve or Vent Valve solenoids...search EAP system too if your having this issue of not being able to fill your tank with gas, without 500000 vapor locks shutting the pump off!
I have a 2002 VW Eurovan, 2.8L V6 Winnebago Vista 21B, 130k miles, my check engine light is on but having a hard time trying to figure out what's causing it and what direction to head without spending a fortune. It started while traveling across country two years ago, several days into the trip, after driving several hours at freeway speeds on a cool rainy day, I stopped for gas and when I turned it back on it sputtered and coughed and ran REALLY rough, I slowly moved the vehicle out of the way, about 50 ft, turned it off and when I turned it back on it was fine, except the check engine light came on. I took it into VW and they ran the test... the codes were: P0118 Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 3 Cylinder Misfires P0305, P0300, P0303 P1151 Bank 1, mixture adaptation, range 1, Lean limit not reached, static
They said it wasn't going to destroy the vehicle, to continue on my trip and I'd need to do some sleuthing to find the culprit. The light came on and off throughout the trip but didn't have the sputtering again ( although I didn't push it as hard when driving it either, kept it around 65 - 70).Got back to Montana and a local shop replaced the ignition coil. That didn't fix the check engine light, which is on continuously now (that's been 2 years with mild use of about 8k miles).
Until now, it hasn't sputtered again so I didn't really worry about it, but it happened in Oregon last week when it was again cool and rainy, I'd been driving hwy speeds for a few hours, I stopped for gas and when I restarted it sputtered, coughed and rumbled like it did 2 years ago. I turned it off for 30 secs, restarted and it was fine.In talking this over with a variety of folk, we're thinking the issue could be a fuel filter, fuel pump, coolant sensor or catalytic converter sensor... I have a fuel pressure test scheduled in a couple of weeks.
So, something odd happened to me today while driving. I was getting off a highway after about 250 miles of driving, downshifted from 5th to 4th, and when I hit the gas pedal after shifting, nothing. No acceleration. I shift back to 5th. Still nothing. Try revving in neutral, also nothing. I come to a stop on the exit ramp and try to start the car up. It starts up, hits about 1k rpm and stalls. Gas pedal does nothing still. What's up with this? I had it towed to my shop.
Couple tidbits of info: just had the oil changed three days ago. Checked the oil and it seems fine. I have an aftermarket he's unit in the car and lately, it's been a little wonky. When I put use my automatic windows, sometimes the volume will mute for a sec.
My car is a 2006 Mazda Miata base model. 5 speed manual. Power windows but not locks. No traction control. No cruise control. 40,000 miles. Oil changed regularly with full synthetic.
My car often backfires on downshifts. It happens as I?m decelerating in gear, and then blip the throttle to match the higher rpm of the lower gear. The car runs well and is well maintained. The spark plugs, MAF sensor, O2 sensors, and cat are all in good order. I?m confident the air/fuel mixture is working as intended by Mazda (at least under normal driving), so I?m not looking for a mechanical culprit. I?m sure it?s my style and frequency of downshift/rev matching which causes the backfires.
It happens anywhere from 1-2 times a week to 1-2 times a day depending on my driving, or on something like 2-5% of all downshifts. Personally, I rather like excitement of the backfires and the exhaust burble which accompanies them, it makes me feel like I'm in a race car. My question is whether frequent backfiring is going to drastically reduce the life of my catalytic converter and O2 sensors.
I don't mind replacing the cat 5 years from now instead of say 10, but I don?t want to have to replace it within the next 10,000 miles or less. My Miata is a 1999 model with 130,000 miles on it. The exhaust system uses stock manifold and muffler but with an AEM performance intake and monsterflow catalytic converter.
Last week the shift got stuck in Park. I used the emergency release button to get into Drive. After this happened several times I took it to the mechanic who said the shift needed replacing. Got a new shift. The problem persists. I get stuck in Park about 1 in 6 times.
View 3 RepliesProblem: car cranks but doesn't start then randomly it will start. 2 different shops...first thought maybe battery (no it cranks) but said these cars are notorious for cam sensor problems they didn't have software to diagnose. Brought to dealership again battery (we were finally beat down and replaced battery) ...then brought home if car sat for a few days totally dead needed jumpstart....brought back to dealer they replaced cam sensor and timing belt...went to pick it up and you guessed it....cranked but didn't start....mechanic came out and it started....so after replacing several parts we are back to the same problem intermittent crank without start...
View 4 RepliesI have this vehicle, which keeps blowing out the catalytic converter, its been replaced 3 times in the last month, and the mechanic doesnt know why, he refuses to put another one on it, until he figures this out.
View 3 RepliesI have a Mazda Miata 2001, 152,000 miles. It's developed a metallic scrape from the right rear wheel. When I'm driving about 20 mph it sounds like a scritch every half-a-second or so, and if I'm going faster it just blurs into a metallic scrape. When I tap the brakes, it usually stops, and then it'll come back a little bit later (maybe when I hit a bump?) It comes and goes, but it seems to be more persistent now (or maybe I'm just always listening for it).
I took the wheel off and sprayed brake cleaner everywhere and I thought that had fixed it, but it came back again after a week maybe.
I have a 1990 Mazda Miata, and the AC is not working. It has been switched over to R134a. I took it to a mechanic to have it recharged a few weeks ago. He said that one of the o-rings was cracked and so it was leaking around that. He filled it up and put some stop leak in it and for awhile it seemed to work fine. Then it stopped blowing cold air. I took it to a jiffy lube just to have the level of coolant (correct term?) checked. The person there told me that it was very low and was leaking around the valve stems. I tightened the valve stems and re-filled it. After 24 hours it had stopped blowing cold air again. I got a price quote on a new compressor and it is about $500.
So - my question is this - should I just put a new compressor in or is there something cheaper I could try first?
Car recently acted like it was running on two or three cylinders and cel came on and continued to flash. The shop that did the repairs is no longer a Mazda dealer, but has a factoy trained tech. Don't know the code #, but was told that there was a low voltage code, and a misfire code. The battery was replaced, throttle body cleaned and a new fuel filter installed. The cel came back on about 25 miles later. They rechecked the codes. Said it could be the converter, and cleared the code again. After about 150 miles, the cel came on again but the car ran normal. Talked to the shop again and was told the the converter problem would have to be serviced at a Mazda dealer. The engine did the running on three cylinder thing again. Since then, it seems to run ok but the light is still flashing. If the OEM converters are fragile are there better options for replacement? The car has 30,000 miles.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 Mazda Miata that I just found standing water under the passenger seat. Took it to dealership the drain is plugged if I had brought the car in when under warranty they would have done the retrofit it needs to fix their lousy design problem for free. I am trying to talk to Mazda and the dealership about them fixing the problem for free. They issued a in house service bulletin but not to the public.
View 6 RepliesI've got a '94 Mazda miata which is in good shape, with among other things a fair number of suspension upgrades. It drives really well, other than the clunk. On the occasional bump it clunks as if something is loose on the driver's side rear. I've checked the shocks, springs, jacked it up and inspected everything I can think of. I'm looking for wisdom from your decades of experience (in your terms wasted time) on what it might be.
View 3 RepliesOnce I reach highway speeds on cruise control, I would feel my car to start slowing down, then a second or two later the car jerks and starts accelerating again. A few times I beat it to the punch and pressed the clutch pedal. The RPMs just dropped and the car died. This happens ONLY after a quarter tank of gas is left. I get no lights, No check engine; nothing... Where should I start looking. BTW I have a 2002 Jetta GLI VR6 24V.
View 24 RepliesMy 2005 5 speed Miata stalls immediately whenever I hit a large bump. It starts immediately when I push in the clutch and turn the key. I barely slow down. Why does it stall?
View 1 RepliesI have a 91 Miata Auto. I bought it from someone that (I think!) never drain auto trans fluid during its 145K mile life. So last year I replaced all the gaskets/filters and tuned up the car. It runs fine except shifting harsh in cold weather. I have to mention that it seem to have no power and goes very slow on first few minutes.I used a pump to suck trans fluid out. It was so dark (even I dropped the trans pan and replaced filter/gasket). Then I pumped Lucas trans fix fluid in and it seem to improve. What should I do more to reduce the harsh shift condition in cold weather? Or is there a booster module need to be replaced?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 Miata. It's been over 100 degrees daily lately. The AC will blow sort of cold for about 30 minutes and the temp gauge will move towards the H hashmarks. If I turn the AC off, the gauge will slowly drop. I've also noticed that the amount of cold air is decreasing as time passes. In fact, the other day, the system was blowing air hotter than the outside temperature after about an hour drive.
The viewing glass has bubbling stuff flowing thru it. The recently flushed radiator is full as is the overflow reservoir.
So i was cleaning my 2007 mazda miata and i noticed one wheel has some fairly deep scratched grooves inside of it. I inspected all the other tires and the other front tire has similar marks but they are way way more of a surface/barely there scratches. The rear wheels are not scratched. I am also hearing a rotational noise when i drive. It gets faster as I accelerate and slower when I brake. I don't know anything about cars.
View 6 Replies1998 Explorer. The fuel pump went out so today I dropped the tank to replace it. I got the 2 fuel lines off and the 2 electrical connections off with no problems but when I went to try and take the vapor line off, the tabs on the connector were brittle and broke. Now I am stuck not being able to put everything back together since that line wont lock on. I was wondering if anything I can do.
I have tried looking online to no avail except for one site selling ford part that has this line for almost 300 dollars. It is just a plastic line that leads to a metal line. Even the Ford Parts site doesn't carry it! That's insane! I was thinking of cutting the plastic line off where it meets the metal line and using rubber fuel line with hose clamps on the line and the plastic fitting on the tank. I just dont know if this will be good enough.
Recently, my 1988 Isuzu Trooper began dying at high elevations (above 7,500 feet). I have had the car for ~7years and have never had this problem. That is, in the past, i've been able to drive it up to 9,300 feet with no problem. Could this be vapor lock? If so, why would vapor lock all of sudden start happening? If not vapor lock, what could it be?
View 5 RepliesI have a rather peculiar problem with My 1994 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L. This has happened multiple times spread out over the last 10 years. Every couple of years after a rather long drive, then a stop, it spits, sputters, has very little to no power, and will ultimately die. It will usually start right back up, idle fine, but when you shift into gear, it acts up as described. If you let it set for about 15-20 minutes, it will usually start up and run fine without the symptoms as described.
The First time it happened I was lucky enough to be within a mile of the dealer, who diagnosed a bad fuel pump before it was ever on the lift. He showed me what he said was the culprit, which was a fuel filter that was full of black particles and soot. He replaced both the pump and filter and it ran fine for a couple of years and it started doing the same thing. Another new fuel pump and filter and we're running again (all under warranty).
About three years ago it did it again and this time we went to a different dealer and since we were no longer under warranty, we wanted to know what was actually going wrong. Nothing was ever found, no codes, pressure was good, everything looked fine. No problems until today when it started again, no dash or check engine lights, it just wouldn't run. We let it sit for 20-30 minutes and started it right up and drove it home without incident.
Are these vehicles known for vapor locking? It sure acts like that is what it was doing. The temp wasn't that hot and was ruled out as a factor.
I am planning to put a new fuel filter in it?