Mazda - MPV :: Slow Warm Up - Increase In Coolant Loss
Jan 29, 2015
My 2004 Mazda MPV with just over 200,000 miles, started experiencing slow warm-up (during warm weather) approximately 5,000 miles ago. Shortly thereafter, I noticed slowly increasing coolant loss. The coolant loss was diagnosed as a cracked radiator, and, while a new radiator was being installed and the system flushed, I had the original thermostat replaced at the same time. The repairs cured the coolant loss problem, and for a short while the car seemed to warm up normally. However, once the weather turned cold, I started experiencing very slow engine warm-up and also have a minimal amount of heat, even after the temp gauge indicates that the engine is up to operating temperature. The rear heater is experiencing the same minimal amount of heat even after the engine is up to temperature.
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We have a 2006 Pacifica which as of recent has been slow to warm in the cabin, especially after a couple hour rest (oddly enough, it warms faster after sitting overnight). Also, when checking the fluids, we noticed that the coolant reservoir was just about empty. We added more 50/50 HOAT coolant, maybe 40-50 oz to get it normal cool engine level. This was done when the engine was cold. My wife noticed that the engine has been running warmer than normal. Normal is maybe a quarter the way up on the temp gauge, where it was around the halfway point, still far from the red zone but not its normal level.
This symptom has been going on for maybe a week. After adding additional coolant, the level stayed where we filled it as the engine warmed up. The heater warmed up to a normal level from what I can tell (it is 30 degrees warmer than last week) so it didn't start with a freezing cabin. I haven't seen any leaking of coolant, since I'm sure I would notice a hot pink puddle under the car. This is pretty typical or the sign of something major. It has around 80k miles on it.
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I'm the second owner of a '13 Golf R with just over 11k miles. This car has been on APR Stage III since 17 miles. Since I took ownership of it, it has been slowly losing coolant. I seem to lose 1-2oz per week, and a thorough top and bottom inspection of the coolant lines in the engine bay hasn't revealed any obvious sources of leakage. I've had the oil analyzed, and there wasn't any sign of burning it or losing it into the crankcase, so I assume it is leaking and/or evaporating off somewhere.
The only thing that looked remotely like a possible source of loss is a tiny (maybe 3mm) white "crust" where the plastic end caps meet the aluminum core of the radiator. Is that a likely spot to lose coolant at such a slow rate? Are there any other usual suspects? I haven't let it drop down past the midpoint of the hashed "low" area, so damage from lack of coolant seems unlikely, but it is slightly disconcerting to be losing any.
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I have a 2005 XLE 4 cyl with 68K miles and a few weeks ago noticed the start of something odd... As the car goes from what appears to be 3-4th gear about 30 mph, there is a push in the rpm about 2-300 and then it shifts. It is not a hard shift, nor does it occur every time. Havent correlated it to first ride of the morning or increased based on being warm etc. Ive had no DTC codes. About 6K ago had transmission fluid flushed, front axles, ball joints, wheel bears, struts and hubs were replaced due to one side failing. Yesterday I brought it into the dealer and they were unable to reproduce. Only thing they found was ABS sensor codes- tested the sensors and found them to be working... Oddly enough, my wife mentioned a flashing brake light a few times when she drove the car recently(I drive it usually and have not seen such.)She is not a good historian so I cant find out if it was abs or brake light.
Transmission fluid is full, looks jut like when it was put in, without any metal shavings.
I purchased a sub for alldata and there are no tsb's for this vehicle that relate to anything like this.
Is it possible that there is an issue with these sensors causing this shifting symptom?
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu, V6, 3.1, auto, 140k miles. Car started out with code 0420 with no noticeable symptoms, but then added code 0303 (miss fire cyl #3) with loud knock (mostly after warmup) and loss of power under load. Now internal loss of coolant (no puddles or external drips). Changed plugs and wires - no change - all plugs looked good with no sign of contamination. Questions - if this is a valve/piston/lifter problem (which would explain the knock, miss-fire and loss of power), why would I get the loss in coolant? If the loss of coolant is fouling plug #3 (which would explain the coolant loss, miss fire and loss of power), could that give me the loud knocking? I don't see how a valve/piston/lifter issue would cause a leak in coolant but I also don't see how a coolant leak into cyl #3 would give me such a loud knock. Do I have two different problems? If it is a leak into cyl #3, is there any way to tell if it is the intake manifold gasket (which leaked before and was replaced five-six years ago and which I could do again if I had to) or a blown head gasket (which I don't think I could fix or afford to get fixed)? Engine will occasionally get hot (but not overheat).
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The alternator belt recently broke off on my Mazda Protege and by the time I was able to drive it to my local Mazda dealer to have the belt replaced the engine was completely dead. I drove the car about 12 miles after the alternator belt broke. I noticed as I was driving to the dealer that my heater was not working; the fan was working but it would only blow cold air. I know that the alternator belt also controls the water pump, so I tried to keep my engine rpm's below 2000 while driving to avoid overheating the engine. On the way to the dealer the temperature gauge on the dashboard increased to about halfway between cold (C) and (H), which is where it usually sits after the engine warms up.
The belt was replaced, but I have noticed that ever since then the temperature gauge always sits at "C" and the engine never warms up. The heater continues to not produce any warm air. In addition, I have felt the engine with my hand after driving for about 20 minutes, and although it feels warm, it is not nearly as hot as it should be. I suspect that the engine cooling system is continually working for some reason, instead of allowing the engine to warm to its optimal operating temperature and then maintaining the temperature at that level. Because this coincided with my alternator belt breaking, I suspect that the root of the problem is either electrical in nature or associated with the water pump somehow. However, I don't know enough about cars to figure it all out.
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I have a 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege that is having a stalling problem. The motor has about 30k miles on the block with around 3k miles on the internal components (rods, pistons, cams, etc.). Cylinders were bored 20 over and head was machined.
This stalling, or almost stalling, problem occurs when I start the car after it's been warm for awhile. For example, if I were to drive for an hour, park it for 45 minutes, and then come back out to start it up. It'll fire up, drop to idle, and then the idle will dip, stalling 50% of the time. The rough idle lasts anywhere from 5 to 20 seconds, and then usually fixes itself.
Giving it some gas does nothing to alleviate the problem; sometimes making it worse. Cleaning the idle air control valve solved this for a few days, and then it was back to its old ways. These symptoms do not occur on cold starts or if I restart the car after 5 or 10 minutes of it sitting. We couldn't find any vacuum leaks and there are no codes being displayed.
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My mazda 3i is cutting out while driving. I added fuel injector additive to gas and it still cuts out. Battery check is fine. What the issue can be. RPM loss
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My Mazda MPV will stall at slow speeds, such as if I am turning a corner or slowing down at a stoplight. Sometimes it starts back up once I put it into park, but other times it takes a few minutes of trying/resting before it will start up. One day, I am afraid it won't start up at all again. I just got new spark plugs and recently got a new mass airflow thingy put in. Check engine light does not come on for this.
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'99 Mazda 323 Protege. Manual, fuel-injected, 4cyl.
Engine code: CE04D16
So just recently started having troubles with the car. It ran fine then all of a sudden I lost what felt like 15-25% power, and the engine felt like it was shaking a little.
When revving, then engine would shudder. Idle rev went from just over 1000 to around 500. there was very little pickup when increasing speed. I can only assume it is losing a cylinder. But since it is fuel injected, people have been saying check the leads, (from where to where?), the distributor, spark plugs etc etc. Now for the last couple days it has been jumping backwards and forwards, from regular to slow.
What is the problem, can I fix this myself, or do I need to take it to a mechanic?
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I am the original owner of the car, which has approximately 125k miles on it. The car has given me great service, but lately a strange problem arose that has my mechanic stumped. When I try to accelerate, the car typically does not respond. After 5 seconds or so, the engine suddenly comes to life and the car begins to accelerate. At high speeds it is not an issue, but the engine sputters once in a while. It has never stalled. It is not the transmission because the RPM stays low during low-power times.
The mechanic initially thought that it was a dirty fuel filter. But, changing it has not worked. Once the engine light came on, and the code was for the air-flow sensor. But, the mechanic is not convinced about that.
The problem tends to become worse after driving for a while, after the engine has warmed up.
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2003 Maxda 6 automatic transmission with 167k miles and in the past 2 days has been slow to move forward when placed in the drive position. Only happens when first starting after sitting cold all night and after sitting all day after work. The fluid level is good and clean with no "burnt" smell nor signs of metallic particles. Are the bands getting loose? If so, are they adjustable without removing transmission? Do they have to be replaced and at what cos? Is there another issue occurring?
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2004 Mazda M3 . My auto is making grinding sounds at first-slow speed until it accelerates. It has 70,000+ miles.What could this be? What should-could be done for this concern.
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My Mazda has 50k miles on it. I have recently gotten a new job where I park my car in a covered parking garage.When the car is parked in this parking garage It cranks fine but it is slow to start. The car does this odd behavior only inside the parking garage when I am coming home from work. It starts fine in the morning. Recently I did not start it for 2 days, and it cranked up and started just fine. I am not sure what exactly is wrong with it. My other question is how long is too long, is a 4 second start time too long or am I just over thinking this one.
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I have a 2008 Mazda 6 that has been a great car, but with it getting warmer, every time I use the AC the air coming through the vents starts warm then cools, then warms then cools. What is causing it to be so inconsistent? As far as I know the AC has never been recharged or serviced.
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In the winter, it takes a long time to warm the engine. It took me 10 minutes to reach 3 bars on the thermostat gauge. After 15 minutes, if finally reached 4 bars(5 bars is normal operating temp). When I stopped on idle in a drive-through, it went from 4 bars to 2 bars. I have driven several cars and I have never seen a car decrease in temperature when it is running, even on idle.
Do Elantra do this?
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I have '98 Chevy PU, 4.3L V6, auto trans. Several months ago I noticed the water pump was leaking so I replaced it and the thermostat. Since then it is very slow to warm up. It takes half an hour of driving to bring it up to normal temp. I have replaced the thermostat, the fan clutch and flushed the heater coreto no avail. I even tried blocking half the radiator with a piece of cardboard, no change. The heater works fine, hot or cold air according to the temp dial on the control panel.
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What kind of mpg increase one would see if they were to increase the tire pressures from recommended (35 F/33 R psi) to max (44 F/ 42 R). Any stats of tracked?
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Noticed slow to move forward at a stop sign, pulled in to get gas, after fillup would not drive forward in any gear, drives fine in reverse. The station attendant checked the fluid, said it was a little low bot looked ok and did not smell burnt. He added some more but no luck. Was able to get home, short drive in first. Should i try to drive to transmission shop if any better or tow? No problems in past 178K, kept up with all regular service and fluid changes. Does this sound like a doomed transmission? Anything i can do short term to get thru holidays?
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Mazda5; 2010; 105,000 miles.
Recently, our Mazda has started making a subdued grinding sound. It happens only when accelerating from idling to 10 miles per hour. It does not occur over 10 mph, in neutral, or park. It doesn't happen when starting the car or in reverse either. according to my wife, it does happens when turning right at slow speeds, but not left.
We have just driven it to our mechanic but it may take a couple days before they are able to look at it.
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My friend has a 1994 Mazda MX-6 and she tells me that it is making a chugging noise when she drives slow and it screeches when its idling. She must have had mentioned its her timing belt maybe but my brother things those don't slip really until they snap. What is wrong with this car?
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