Mazda - 626 :: Noisy / Can Hardly Hear The Radio
Jul 20, 2012
My Mazda 626 makes alot of noise. I can hardly hear the radio without blasting it. My mechanic (Firestone) says it's normal for that car. I have had a wheel bearing replace 2 years ago and the tires (Firestone FR) are relatively new and the alignment is good. Do I simply have to live with it. I also have a 1995 Ford Taurus (for sale) and a 2005 Hyundai Sonata and neither make anywhere near the noise that the Mazda does.
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Why can't hear the radio with the rear defroster on ??
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Tonight I was driving while I had my radio and navigation turned on and I made a phone call to a friend and the screen said the call connected and my friend could hear me but I couldn't hear him. I called 3 times and got the same result.
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As I understand the radio is on the rear window of the car and every time i listen to the radio and turn on the rear defroster I get static and I can barely hear the radio. Is it possible to buy a different antenna and mount it somewhere else instead of using the one on the window?
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Just purchased my 1st SUV - 2012 Nissan Murano. Rides good, handles great. Seats a little firm. Problem: when the radio is on (not really very loud), can't hear the click of the turn signal -- it's set at a very low volume. As it doesn't stop clicking after changing lanes, how can I increase the sound of the click so I'm not one of those goofballs driving down the freeway making a perpetual left turn?
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The radio trim/bezels around the center console and down to the shifter tend to be noisy when its hot outside and the car driven over rough roads. How to insulate these radio bezels with felt or some kind of insulation so the noise is dampened? I think any rough road tends to make them creak and the hooks tend to rub against the plastic..
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In Jan my radio began to make a static sound when I went over a bump, and then would go off. I discovered I could turn off the engine, and the radio would come back on. Eventually it stopped working altogether. A few weeks later, the turn signals stopped working, then the speedometer/odometer, then the cabin light, then the brake lights. Sometimes the windshield wiper goes on in the 'clean' cycle where water is squirted onto the windshield, and the wiper wipes. This feature has never worked before.
I have owned the vehicle (Mazda pickup 1998 B2300) for 2 years. I found soon after buying the vehicle there is a 'Timer Control Module' circuit board behind the radio in the dash which, when unplugged, will disable the functions mentioned above. Is this board the problem??
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When i accelerate, i can hear the turbo, i don't know if its a problem though.
I drive a 18 wheeler for work, and sometimes when i'm goin down a hill and i accelerate, i get no power, just hearing the turbo loud and clear with no power.
But i barely hear it on the passat, i don't know if its good or bad.
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Before everyone starts telling me to get a tune or a proper intake I did this as an experiment. I will eventually get an intake, tune, dp, and exhaust however, that won't be until a few more paychecks arrive.
So I've been driving my car for a few months and not once did I hear the turbo. So I put in a forge spacer and that didn't last a week.While I was taking it off the spacer I put in the rev d diverter valve in. I keep driving it completely stock and decided to be an amateur and rig up the auto zone special intake in hopes to hear those sweet intake sounds. Windows up or down I still couldn't hear the intake. However, I did hear the dv flutter. I scanned for some codes and came up with nothing.
There is no heat shield. I understand what I've done just let me remind you this was an experiment and this is no longer on the car.
I put the stock airbox back in with a K&N high flow filter. I let the computer adjust then went romping around shifting at 6k with the windows down. Sure as **** no turbo swooshes.
Am I missing something? I've tried three different filters and one different intake style, still came up with nothing. Just to be sure I scanned the car again and no codes came up. I am now less concerned about the silly sound I once wanted, but now concerned if there is something wrong with my car.
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It doesn't have anything to do with being at low RPM's and I am not sure if I need to be worried...
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My 1996 Windstar, V6, 3.8L, stops blowing air from vents intermittently. When I turn AC or heat on, the vents blow air fine according to the fan speed setting. But after 10/15 minutes, the air flow decreases significantly or stops altogether, no air comes out of the vents, yet I can hear the blower fan noise as if it is working and feel heat/cool at the vents (as per the selected setting).
I have tried changing the selector switch from AC to MaxAC, dashboard vents, bottom vents defrost, or fan speeds, but nothing works; It stays the same whether the vehicle is moving or is parked. The air starts flowing normally after half hour or so, or the next day.
I replaced the HVAC Vacuum Selector Valve (behind the controls) last week with a new one made by MotorCraft and it did not make any difference.
First thing that comes to mind is vacuum leak. Given the intermittent nature of the problem, I was wondering if this really is due to a vacuum leak? Next I thought of the blend door actuator, which is a common problem with Windstars. Since it does not default to hot or cold air, could it still be a blend door actuator problem?
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Just bought a used 2010 toyota avalon with 66000 km on it. so far really like the car but finding small issue with suspension.
over small bumps or cracks in pavement, quite a bit of thumping is heard from the suspension. further, when on concrete highways, the ride doesn't settle down. the whole body is constantly vibrating and jiggling. I've not experienced this before with any other vehicle I've driven over the same roads.
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I just found out that the beeps that i hear when in reverse is only for people in the car to hear. outside of the car, with the doors closed, i cannot hear anything. is that by design or is there something wrong?
i would think the beep (for those who changed it from the default) or continuous beeps would be useful to warn whoever may happen to be behind the car since the prius is dead silent at times.
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I've followed steps 2-6 from this image
I don't feel any pressure in the hose from the fuel filter. I can hear a buzz (guessing its from the fuel pump) but no pressure.
I've checked both fuses, the efi main relay, and swapped out the circuit opening relay with a known good one and all checked out good. Only thing left is the fuel pump or the writing and electrical connectors.
Car has pretty much took a dump one morning and has almost no power. I can't find anything else wrong with this car besides this. Is the fuel pump the problem even though I can hear the pump?
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I have a 1989 celica gts. I can hear the motor but my sunroof wont move..it wont open so I dont know how to get in and see what the problem is. Do I start by taking out the headliner?
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I have a 2006 Lexus GS, my phone is a Galaxy Note 2 N7100, everything was working perfectly until Android 4.2.2, but ever since I updated to Android 4.3 I started to have problems. The problem is that sometimes I don't hear the sound from the car's speakers but instead I hear it from the phone, the thing is that it's intermittent . Sometimes it works perfectly and other times it doesn't.
I'm so mad as I won't be able to update my phone and buy a Note 3 which already comes with Android 4.3, unfortunately I got back my phone to Android 4.2 and it's working perfectly.
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Just got my passat not to long ago and its having stupid electrical issues... the window motor is not working, but you can here the motor clicking.. and its having issues with the dome lights.
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Geo won't start. It has a new battery and air filter. Just replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. I don't hear the fuel pump "whirring" when I put the key in the ignition (to on position). All the dashboard lights come on when the car is in on position.
I suspect the relay or the fuse, but having trouble finding the correct one of each. What does the relay look like? i.e. part number? What is the spec for the fuse? 20amp 30 amp? This has been a great car.
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Hit the button and you can hear it unlock, pull the handle and nothing. All other doors open fine, just the main I like to use for time to time......you know to get in.
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I'm working on one of our fleet vehicles here, a 1995 Explorer. about 2 months back, it stalled out. Got it back to the shop and turned the key on .... I couldn't hear the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay. Vehicle started right up and seemed to run O.K. About 2 weeks ago, it stalled out again, same symptoms, acts like it runs out of gas and can't hear fuel pump.So, I have been playing with it and find that it starts up great in the cool mornings. In the afternoon when the temps are hotter, it won't start (can't hear fuel pump). The following morning when temps are cool, it will start right up and can hear the fuel pump. I almost wrote this one off as a defective fuel pump, but I'm not sure on this one.
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2001 sierra 2wd ext. cab. over 300 km. 5.3 motor auto .... Battery charged, everything is working when key is on, but nothing happens when key is turned to start. Clicking noise can be heard in 5 pin fuse relay located on left side dash fuse panel.. How do I check it? Could have something to do with anti theft system?
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