Mazda :: 2008 - Grinding Sound On Slow Right Turn On A Slight Downward Incline
Feb 8, 2013
Our 2008 Mazda CX 9 has been making a grinding sound and also the ABS light comes on when we make a right turn on a slight decline after having come to a stop. We have reported to Mazda multiple times but they always say they can't replicate the problem and can't find anything. I am concerned that something in the car is becoming more and more damaged because there is no way something grinding like that can be good for the car and I am frustrated that it's never been diagnosed especially now that it's out of warranty although I established a record of the issue long before the warranty period expired.
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Mazda5; 2010; 105,000 miles.
Recently, our Mazda has started making a subdued grinding sound. It happens only when accelerating from idling to 10 miles per hour. It does not occur over 10 mph, in neutral, or park. It doesn't happen when starting the car or in reverse either. according to my wife, it does happens when turning right at slow speeds, but not left.
We have just driven it to our mechanic but it may take a couple days before they are able to look at it.
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I have an 08 Toyota Sienna and yesterday I started to notice a very slight grinding or rubbing sound when I apply the brakes coming from the passenger side front wheel. I can only hear the grinding or rubbing sound when I am going very slowly (like the last 20 feet when approaching a stop sign). The sound pulses slightly like two surfaces that are not parallel are rubbing. There is no pulsation or wobble felt in the brake pedal. I'm thinking it's time to get the rotors turned, but it could also be the brake pads.
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Since about 5000 km, I have had a knocking metal rattling sound happening when I accelerate up a hill or a slight incline. It has happened a few times on flat road as well just more prevalent on the uphill battles. Now I assumed it was jus something loose that was rattling since I installed a cold air intake and had installed hid lights(I thought the ballast was banging on something). I tried and tried to find the rattle but I had no success. I read up on here about other people suffering the same problem and that running higher octane gas would solve it well I tried 89 and it was still there just not as much and I recently started using 91 and its gone haven't heard it at all.
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.Here is a run down of my truck 05 5.4L Screw has 130K on it. Sometime when going up a slight incline the truck at partial throttle will shake very very little. if I put my foot into it the shake goes away and the truck response just fine. It only does this when going uphill on the freeway and on the streets here in Dallas that have slight inclines.
The truck is not throwing any codes nor does it stall at lights. Starts right up in the morning and runs good. Nothing done to the truck except I have an Edge programmer and Magnaflow exhaust. I have pulled the programmer off and returned the truck to stock and it still does the same thing.
I bought the truck used in 07 had 40K miles on it. I'm thinking spark plugs or maybe a coil is going bad. But this doesn't happen all the time just here and there.
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2004 Mazda M3 . My auto is making grinding sounds at first-slow speed until it accelerates. It has 70,000+ miles.What could this be? What should-could be done for this concern.
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1996 Mazda Protege, 133224 miles, mostly city driving, automatic transmission
This weekend the car started bucking, problems shifting into gear, chugging, slight odor of oil, very slow moving. This morning (in my pf's) I ran the Scan OBDII and there were no error messages. I checked fluids and they were fine.
Possible problems? I am at a decision point, get rid of the car (needs tires, front brakes and it burns a bit of oil each month (1-2 cups) or fix it.
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So I have just over 14k on my 2015....... I love the truck but have had a few small issues. I had a water leak coming in from the roof that would leak through the grab handle. Nothing major dealer replaced one clearance light seal and they said the windshield needs to be re sealed.
Then I had a god awful irritating squeak in the dash..... It only does it late In the day when it's been hot. The dealer said it was a loose air bag. I have had the truck back a week and it's doing it again.
Those are little issues that will get resolved...... I hate having problems with a brand new vehicle but I understand it happens and that's what warranty is for.
I also reported a bad shake to the dealer...... The truck will shake very violently and have a very loud "diesel" sound. It's very specific at when it occurs. It has only done 4 times in the past 6 weeks including today. The odd thing is the 4 times it has done it has been the same time of day in the exact same spot on the exact same road!!!!
Basically I leave my office sit in some traffic and by the time I get to the parkway it has been35 minutes or so. Only happens in 6th at 60 which is roughly 1,400rpm a slight load due to a small incline and it shakes real bad! The typical "diesel" sound you get when under a load is very pronounced almost to a knock. It will continue to do this as you slowly increase throttle until it down shifts and then goes away. I also caught it doing it and I manually shifted to 5th and it went away.
Because of the rpm at which it happens with slight load only doing it in 6th I lean to a Trans issue and more so a converter problem. It feels like converter shutter. I just don't understand the engine sound.
I gave very descriptive info to the dealer..... Several techs drove it and could not duplicate. I just picked the truck back up last Thursday and the dash squeak is back and the shake happened yesterday and again today. So I am a bit irritated to say the least.
I really hate the fact that I know there is a problem but I also understand if a tech can't duplicate it he can't diagnose it. However today I did get a video of it with my phone so they will know I'm not making this crap up!
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I have a 2004 Acura MDX with about 115K miles on it. I recently heard a slight grinding sound as the car accelerated, and I took it to the dealer for a check. The mechanic there recommended replacing the Torque Converter - a $4000 job, more or less.
Not wanting to spend that much unless it was necessary, I took it to my local mechanic. He says the torque converter is fine - that I would feel serious shaking and problems shifting if it needed replacement. And he said the grinding sound is normal for a car with so many miles on it. He says the differential gets noisy as the mileage goes up.
Who's right? And if the problem is the differential, can I just keep driving it - as long as the noise doesn't bother me?
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My wife's 2007 Mazda3 is making a very slight clicking sound every while coming out of left turns. It's somewhat intermittent, only happening every few turns. I did a quick visual inspection and noticed that there was grease around the CV boot. The problem started about five days ago (or at least the noise started appearing five days ago). Three weeks ago I had the struts replaced, so I'm wondering if they could have torn the boot while replacing the struts, or if they didn't notice the issue.
Is the CV joint shot, considering this is only an intermittent sound, or is there something else that could be happening? Also, what is a typical repair cost for a CV joint (or half axle replacement) on a 2007 Mazda3?
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A sort of honking/grinding noise, like really loud squealing brakes - but a lower sound, when at low speed, with the wheel turned right for maximum turning. Generally located in the front end.
It occurs consistently when I am returning home, slowing to a stop to pull around a curve in the road, right before I back into my driveway. It occurs with the clutch in or out, and with the brakes on or not. I tried doing slow sharp turns in a parking lot and I can't replicate it there.
It's happened for almost as long as I've had the car, and there's only about 1300km on it now. I've just been trying to track it down to replicate for the dealer. Taking it to the dealer is obviously my next step. I think I'm going to have to take a tech for a ride to my house to replicate it!
Car is completely stock so far.
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So yet I found out about another common issue but not that publicized. This is the grinding sound when turning at full lock (left or right) in slow speed. I've read several people in the forum who has encountered this. I read different remedies but the most common one is to have the CV boots lubricated.
I have a 2014 Wolfsburg with almost 5k miles. I am really now worrying about my water pump crapping out on me but I heard this grinding sound yesterday.
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Just purchased a used 2008 prius with 80,000 miles on it. Braking system makes slight grinding noises when getting below around 10mph. I know the brakes are different, so I'm not sure if this is normal or if it means my brake pads need replacing? Car didn't come with an owners manual .
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A strange thing happened today. I was the first car stopped at a light on a slight incline and decided I wanted to take my foot off the brake. The incline was not quite great enough to keep the car from slightly inching forward so I set the emergency brake. This light is pretty long, at least 2-3 minutes. About halfway through this wait, I started smelling a burning smell, almost like burning wires. I'm not entirely sure it was actually my car because my windows were down but the smell was quite strong inside my car and started dissipating after releasing the emergency brake and putting the tranny in neutral. So, my question is, is there anything bad about what I did? Setting the emergency brake while in drive should be no different than having the hydraulic brakes holding the car at a light, so I don't see how the tranny was being stressed or the brakes since the car wasn't moving. Nothing else was on in my car, not the vent fan nor the radio. So was this just a coincidence or was I harming something?
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Have an f350 4x4 diesel that when I drive slow and especially turn to the right it makes a grinding noise. It seems to either go away or just gets muffled by road noise when cruising. The ball joints were bad so I replaced them and I figured with this especially when I turn right it had to be a wheel bearing so I replaced both of them and still same thing. Don't want to throw money at it hoping to fix the issue. Also front duff is full of oil.
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2008 Subaru trebeca suv with only 62000 miles, when going up a slight incline in drive you feel quite a shudder like you were driving over small bumps on the road. This is my daughters vehicle so she phoned about 400 miles from were I live & told me what I said above. I told her it sounds to me like the torque converter is not unlocking. And if it is the converter not unlocking would that be a very expensive repair ?
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Still chugging along!!
So, I haven't been the kindest car owner to my poor little hatchback. I do my best to get regular oil changes, but other than replacing the brakes last year, I have not kept up with most of the manufacturer's suggested regularly scheduled maintenance. The car has about 130,000 miles. Manual Transmission. My clutch feels a little loose, and I have been noticing a slight grinding sound when shifting (only from neutral to first gear).
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Last time this truck did this, I replaced the #27 fuse and it started right up. This time, no such luck. It is EXTREMELY frustrating to pay this much money for a truck that you cant start. Btw, it has 38 miles until its on empty.. Any way that could be the cause if i am parked in my drive way which has a slight incline?
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2008 Accent. Timing belt broke. Took the head off and had valves replaced (2) and head work done. Had everything put back together. Car runs. Except it makes a slight ticking sound when warm. When it's cold it ticks a lot.
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I am having issues with my 02 Nissan Sentra turning over when I am starting the car. First for some background my car has almost exactly 115k miles on it. I have noticed the problem is getting slowly worse and worse. What happens is when I turn the key the engine makes a slow grrrr and rev sound, then a slighty faster grrr and rev, followed by a faster one before it finally turns over. There have been instances before when I have have to give it a good two or three times before it would turn over at all. I am not sure what is causing the problem. I do have one idea is that recently my gas mileage has been going down so I added Techron from the auto shop before 2 of my last 3 fillups (I didn't on the last fill up since I was having the issues) Could that cause the problem? Other than that I am thinking maybe something with the battery (its a bit over 3 years old) or the spark plugs or fuel pump would be my best bet? I tried to take an audio recording of the issue but you have to really turn up the volume to hear the low lever grrr and revs before the car starts.
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I have noticed this rubbing, not quite grinding sound/vibration when I take off and turn. For instance pulling out of a parking lot and turning either left or right. Truck will do it only after it's been driven a while. I originally thought it was just the limited slip ratcheting but recently just changed the rear axle fluid adding Amsoil this time. I did not add any friction modifier because I didn't think the Amsoil needed it. So after going on a 500 mile trip I find it is still doing it. The truck sits at the stock ride height and has stock size wheels and tires on it. What it could be ? It only happens in the turn, not while driving straight. It still sounds like the differential but just want to be sure.
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