My 2005 RX 8 has been a great car. However, in the past 1.5 years, when I accelerate it doesn't "jump on it' like it used to. It will eventually get up to the speed I desire, but she has lost her quickness.
View 2 RepliesI have had this car for 4 years, and it's been driving, and handling very well overall. Lately, I started hearing a soft scratching noise when accelerating, and especially going from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd gear. There was some hesitation before shifting to the higher gear as well. I took the car to a local mechanic, and after test driving, and listening to the engine with a tube??? he told me that he needed to change the torque converter and the pump, and quoted me for $1936. My wife immediately wanted to sell the car and buy a new one. Half of my friends said the same thing (well, at least my richer friends did), and the others said to fix it and drive it while I could do so.
So, I took the car to another transmission specialist, and they told me that the transmission was in great condition, fluids, shifting, etc. Something doesn't add up here. I know that the engine/transmission doesn't sound the same as when I bought the car, but how is it possible to have that kind of diametrically opposite diagnosis. Meanwhile, I took the Mazda to a local dealership, and they quoted me for $4500 trade-in value, while CARMAX said they would give me $2500. Needless to say, I am at a crossroad - we know we have to change the car soon, but how soon and under what circumstances, this is the question. Then, just today, another mechanic said that the engine is unbalanced, and is giving a low, and powerful vibration, and the harmonic balancer needed to be changed.
So, just overnight, suddenly the car doesn't respond to my key fob. When I press the button on the fob the little red light lights up, so the battery works. I open the car by using the old school physical key and get in. The car refuses to start up until I try to put the fob in its slot, and then it starts like normal. What could this be? I tried checking other threads, but they were all about the fob being out of battery or broken, which doesn't seem to be the case here, as I tried both my two fobs and neither work.
View 15 RepliesAfter starting the car, MFD doesn't repond to touches anywhere, the side buttons work but the touch screen doesn't respond to touches. Is this normal?
View 2 RepliesFriday night my car is fine. Sunday, after some wintry weather, I start the car and it shakes and stalls out. I start it again and notice the check engine light and the ESC light is on and the car doesn't respond to the gas pedal. No response to hitting the ESC light. Runs rough like it was 25 years old. I limp around the block and decide not to drive it. I hope it's a really simple inexpensive computer chip replacement....
View 4 RepliesAll of the sudden the remote to my 2009 Subaru Outback stopped working. The car doesn't respond at all. I mentioned this when I had the car in for service and they tested my remote. They detected a signal that it was sending out so that means something is wrong on the car side and the remote appears to be functioning fine. Unfortunately I only have 1 remote (bought the car used). I didn't have them look any further into it because they admitted that they don't know what the problem could be and it would take time to investigate.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan. The door locks do not respond to the remote or the switch on the door. If I disconnect the battery for a few seconds, they will work for a day or two. It seems to be a computer problem. Is there only one? Where is it and are there any other tests I can do to troubleshoot this?
View 3 RepliesThe little device that hold doors open (so they don’t swing freely) aren’t very effective on my ’09 model. Actually, it's only a problem on the front doors. The rear doors hold position quite well. The front doors have always been a problem and I wonder if is this typical. Is there a fix (other than replacement)?
View 6 Replies2002mazda protege5,2.3 ltr engine.had the timing belt changed, then the problem started after the belt was replaced.took back- scan showed short in #2 cylinder and vacuum code.they fixed coil problem for #2 cylinder but vacuum code went away.once rmp get above 2500 accelerates o.k.hesitates when taking off from stop sign, etc.could vac hose be missing somewhere?seems to act like it floods when taking off.does vacuum control timing advance or gas/air mixture?
View 5 RepliesMazda B2300 2.3L 1995 model... About a week ago I ran my B2300 out of gas (or so I was convinced I was out of gas) because the engine quit running. After adding gas was unable to start it back up. It turns over but doesn't start.
Here's what we did to try and fix it:
1.) Replaced Fuel Filter
2.) Check the fuel pressure, and it was at 35 psi when the key was on
3.) Replaced all 8 spark plugs (4 cylinder truck btw)
4.) Checked spark of all 8 coil pack slots and 1st and 3rd slots (exhaust side) were not sparking. After replacing coil pack we received spark but truck still didn't start.
We're speculating on the possibility of it being the PCM (ECC).
I have a 2004 Mazda 3. I just had it inspected and cabin air filter replaced. Now, my car makes a loud noise when the a/c is on and I'm accelerating. The noise sounds like a fan is vibrating /something is blocking it or like a motor is rev-ing that shouldn't be. There definitely is something wrong that wasn't there before the filter/s replaced. I watched a Youtube video on it... a real pain to replace them, but it looked like the fithad to be pretty tight... Could the filters have been installed incorrectly or some part not put back together correctly?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 mazda6 v6 3.0 and it is throwing codes for o2 sensors. No cat but there is a code for heated o2 sensor. Not to Familiar with Mazda's but when accelerating hard below 3000 rpm it seems to misfire or skip. Only when accelerating hard though. If just barley pressing the pedal and slowly creeping through low rpms it runs fine. Anything above 3000 rpm it accelerates great.
View 8 RepliesMy car just started making a wheezing kind of noise when accelerating. Reminds me of wind being forced through a small hole, or the sound of a balloon being aired up.
View 9 RepliesI just got this 2007 Mazda6 S Sport Value Edition for free from a family member. It has an automatic transmission.
While driving it in a parking lot I noticed that the car was make some kind of a rattling noise whenever I start accelerating slowly from around 1000ish rpms. After that the noise disappears. The first time hearing something like this was in a Prius I rented, though I don't think this affects performance at all. I am wondering if this is normal?
Also the car has being sitting unused for about a couple of months before I picked it up. I noticed immediately a burning smell after driving it, somewhere under the driver side, which makes me suspect if it has something to do with the transmission. I know very little about fixing cars of course but I also own a manual transmission car, and this smell kinda reminds me of a burning clutch.
The car drives great. The transmission seems to work fine. No slipping. Driving around those hills in San Francisco just fine.
1990 Mazda Protege with a 1.8L DOHC, manual 5-spd transmission, ~173K miles on it. On my way home the other day, the car ABRUPTLY started to run very rough - with what I would call repetitive and incessant stuttering when accelerating (though I am by no means technical with respect to cars). I shut the car down, hoped the problem would go away, but when I started it up later that day, the problem was still there - the car BOTH idles rough and doesn't accelerate very smoothy. When I come to a stop, the car feels as if it's going to stall but stays running. This afternoon, I took it out on the road for ~3 mile drive (up to ~ 50 mph) and the problem is the same - but I did also notice, when driving, that the car gave off a smell reminiscent of firecrackers - perhaps a sulfur-ish smell. I googled the issues I was having and I got a whole array of problems - ranging from simply bad spark plug wires (which have been replaced in the past 1.5 years) to a stuck EGR valve .
Here's some additional info on my car: -Was just in the shop 2wks ago for overheating - found the thermostat to be bad - they replaced it and I no longer have the overheating issue. While there, they also replaced the belts for the alternator and water pump (Which had been squealing for quite some time) -Spark plug wires and distributor cap were both replaced in the last 1.5 years -Last oil change was > 6 months (but less than 3000 miles) ago - all the fluid levels seem to be fine -Though I think it is unrelated, the car is also making a high pitched squeaking noise emanating from the R front of the car while driving - I suspect this is the suspension-related as the shop informed me that I have one front stablizer link broken while the other is loose (and when I push down on the R-front side of car while it is not running it yields a similar squeaking noise.
I bought a used 89' Ford e150. Automatic transmission, 194k mi. I fixed it up a bit and it is very much drivable. I just took it up to northern az and then back down. I had to have it towed recently and now my transmission is acting up. When I want to move it i put it into gear, either reverse or drive, now while accelerating slowly the vehicle doesn't move for several seconds until the transmission catches and it then starts to move. It does this now while driving and having to stop for lights and signs. It has a delay until the transmission catches. I wonder if the vehicle is dragged up on to a flatbed tow truck this can damage my transmission or driveshaft And cause this. What can I do to fix it
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Mazda3 with a 2.0 engine & a five speed transmission and 94,000 miles. Since June the car has twice not started, and so far three trips to two different Mazda dealers have not resolved the problem. The car had sat overnight, when I tried to start it the engine it turned over normally, and sounded normal, for just a second. Then it sounded like it started turning over much much faster than normal and the turning over sound changed to the sound of a high speed "whirl" (I don't know any other way to describe it).
In both cases the car just turned over and over and never sounded like it was going to start, resulting in a tow being needed. I've now found out that the dealer started the car by pushing the gas pedal to the floor, then cranking over the engine and then very slowly releasing the gas pedal until the engine started to fire. In the three months in between the non start days the car has started fine and it drives fine, lots of power, constant power with no surges or bogging down. The dealers have checked the compression, fuel PSI, and run computer diagnostics and everything appears to be normal. They also removed the value cover and say that as far as they can tell the fuel injectors seem to be functioning normally.
2005 Mazda 6 wagon (AT); 110K mi
Of late, I have noticed a hi-pitched squeal, but only on sharp right turns!
I only just noticed it recently, the one time I had the radio off and windows down. Normally, the sound is too faint to hear.I did a few turns, both left and right, and it definitely only occurs on right turns -- eg when turning the corner.Since I only just noticed it, I have not yet brought it to my mechanic.
Also, I would note that the sound does not occur if I turn the wheel when stopped (eg at a light). It's definitely a car-in-motion symptom. Any possible areas to check?
I drive an '05 Mazda 3, manual transmission. About a month ago, I accidentally killed the battery completely by leaving the trunk slightly open for a couple days. After getting a new battery, my car idles very noisily, making rattling noises, and constantly feels like it's almost stalling when driving slowly or decelerating. It only stalled entirely once, in a parking lot. My friend thought this was due to the ECU crashing and trying to figure things out, so we put the car through an ECU reset procedure, but nothing changed.
View 2 RepliesMy wife's 2005 Mazda 3 had a bit of a noise on cold start and our mechanic thought it was connected to an intake manifold flap malfunction. Now I notice it seems to have a constant ticking noise at idle. If one of the electrical connections near the intake manifold is disconnected the noise stops. Another forum suggested that connection goes to the solenoid valve. They think that valve may be stuck open and when the connection is taken away it closes and the noise stops. At least that is what I was able to extract from the discussion. Does that make sense? The solutions I saw recommended were to either replace the intake manifold or replace the solenoid valve or don't do anything because it's not harmful other than the motor may lose a little bit of power.
View 6 RepliesSo my 05 Mazda 6 was in a small fender bender several months back. One of the items that had to be replaced was the right headlight assembly. Once we got it back from the shop we noticed almost immediately that the right turn signal was working intermittently. We took it back to the shop and they said the assembly was defective so they replaced it and it worked fine for a few days. But then the intermittent problem started again. I didn't have an opportunity to take it back to the shop so we just deal with it. My state inspection is coming up soon and it won't pass if the light doesn't work. I kinda think the headlight assbly is the wrong model. It has a small led looking light in it that is on when the marker lights are on that the other original doesn't have.
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