Mazda :: 2003 - Tachometer Jump When Driving In Higher Gear
May 20, 2011
I have a 2003 Mazda 6, 5-speed. Whenever I'm driving in higher gear (4th or 5th), the tachometer seems to jump. For instance, if I'm driving at 50mph at 3,000rpm in 5th gear and I want to accelerate to ~65mph, the tachometer seems to jump to 3,5000-4,000rpm, then drop down to 3,000rpm and then slowly increase as I accelerate.
What's the reason for this random jumping/revving? I don't think the clutch is going bad or slipping. It only seems to happen in higher gears, even without me shifting--only when I want to accelerate.
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Shifting into gear was a problem occasionally, but lately, within 15 minutes of driving, I start feeling the shifting into higher or lower gear getting stiffer and will not shift into gear.I've shared the problem with couple of my mechanics and it left them puzzled, since there are no leaks or low levels of fluid.
B2600i '92 cab ....
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I have a 1984 BMW 318i. When it gets to 3.5-4K rpm, it starts to miss and the tachometer starts to jump. What's wrong with it?
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2003 Mazda6, 3.0 liter, 6 cylinder, FWD. My RPMs are starting to jump, so I believe a clutch replacement may be in line soon. However, I'm not a huge car guy, and I don't have much experience in regards to replacing clutches.
(1) The RPMs are jumping occasionally at higher gears (not every time). How long do you think I could go before the clutch dies completely? I'm not a "racer", and I just use my car for daily driving.
(2) Do mechanics replace clutches based on symptoms alone, or can they actually visually inspect the clutch and determine that it needs to be replaced?
(3) When replacing a clutch, what parts need to be replaced besides the actual clutch itself? Also, I've read about flywheels needing to be resurfaced, but is that necessary?
(4) What manufacturer makes good clutches? As mentioned, I'm not a hard driver or anything. Just need something that is good quality and affordable.
(5) Is the best way to save money (I'm a graduate student) to buy an aftermarket clutch and have the clutch installed by a local mechanic?
(6) At what mileages do clutches typically need to be replaced? I know it depends on how you drive. Let's say you're a casual driver and simply use your car to get to work, school, etc.
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Had my .:R for 2 years now and just noticed other day. When you cruise in 2/3/4/5 gears about 3000 RPM and suddenly press accelerator 1/3 down RPM jump UP for a split second on tachometer. They go up by one segment (which is 200RPM) and then drop back down.
Now, DSG should not do that to my understanding as clutch pack is engaged! There should be no slip. Also, it is not a drive train shunt, as I kept the car in very slight acceleration.
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My Subaru want to stall when it shifts from a higher to a lower gear when driving up a grade/hill. Also does the same thing when pulling out from a stop sign or traffic light. You need to pump the accelerator to get it going.
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I have a 2000 F150 with the 4.6L engine and I have a question about the transmission. When shifting from 1st to 2nd gear there is sometimes a little hard jump when shifting. All the other shifting through out the range is buttery smooth. The issue has been around for a long time and has never gotten worse. Is there anything simple I can do to fix this. Do those tranny additives work at all? Otherwise, I will just continue to live with it.
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1999 5.4 ... I was just driving down road and truck suddenly wouldnt shift into overdrive/higher gear. pulled to side of road and the motor was revving very high at 2500 rpm. shut truck off and on a few times...kept doing it until finally after a while it went back to normal....
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I'm having a problem with my 2012 Mazda3 (automatic, non-skyactive model) that others seem to be complaining about on the online forums, but there seems to be no consensus.
About 10,000 miles into owning the car, it started making a sort of high-pitched gargling sound when I accelerate and the tachometer reads 1500-1900 RPMs. At first, the sound occurred sporadically when I was accelerating under these conditions, but now, at 28,000 miles, it's happening almost every time I accelerate between 1500-1900 RPMs. Here are a few more facts:
The engine must be warm. The car must be in drive (I cannot replicate it in neutral or park)The sound occurs regardless of whether the AC is on
I took it to the dealer 3 times. The first time, they changed the belt, and that worked for about 1000 miles. The second time, they told me that the noise is normal, and I should not worry. The third time, I took it to a different dealer, and they put a "dressing" on the belt. That worked for about 600 miles. Now the sound is back again, and it's driving me nuts. It definitely doesn't sound normal. If I test drove a car at 28,000 that made this sound, I definitely wouldn't buy it.
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Only during the summer, my 2003 Vue transmission jerks and shifts to (I believe) to a higher gear. Mechanic replaced the computer "harness" but it did not solve the problem. The car has little power to accelerate from a stop. I usually pull over, turn off the motor, and restart the vehicle.
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I have a 2008 Mazda 3, and I have been bringing it to the same car wash for about a year now. It's the kind where the guys take it, while I sit in the lil' cafe and read. Eventually they drive it around front, wipe it down, clean the inside and hand it over. The last two times, the car needed to be jump started, because the battery would not start after the wash. The manager assured me this was normal, but the other guys at the car wash always seem surprised. Should I be thinking about getting a new battery? Is this really normal?
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We have a 2003 Mazda Protege5 and when you put it in gear the code P0758 (shift solenoid B electric) pops up. The circuit has been diagnosed everywhere, solenoids replaced, and even replaced the computer. We cannot get rid of this code, which causes the car to drive in limp mode. We've spoken to so many people with Mazdas and can't seem to come up with a solution.
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I have a 2003 F250 with a 5.4L V8 automatic transmission with 64,000 miles. The truck runs and drives well, but occasionally while driving, it acts like it shifts into a higher gear, slips a bit, then downshifts and runs fine. The duration of this "acting up" is about 1-2sec. It seems to do it when going up a slight grade at cruising speed about 40-50mph. (Not towing when it does it) It doesn't do it all the time. I'm planning to change the filter and fluid but am doubtful that will work. The fluid color is nice bright pink and does not smell unusual.
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I've got this loud higher pitched scraping/rattling/clanking noise while moving. Neutral or drive makes no difference. I have a problem with my coast clutch not working and will be having the tranny shop (warranty) take a look at what's going on. Could this sound be from that? I hope it's noticeable on the video. I need to do my swaybar link bushings, but it's not a suspension clunk it's definitely a rotating noise.
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I have a 2003 Mazda 6, 5-speed manual transmission. I was driving on the highway today (going about 65mph), and all of a sudden, my car kind of "jolted" (like it stalled out). When I tried pushing the gas pedal, the car wouldn't accelerate. When this happened, the check engine light (and some other lights) went on, too. I pulled over to the side, turned the car off, and turned it back on. It seemed to start fine and gas/acceleration was working. Fortunately, I was able to get home, but it started doing it more frequently up until I got to my apartment. Each time, I had to turn the car off and restart it.
Oddly enough, when the car does this and I pull over to the side, the engine is still on. However, even though the engine is on and the car is idling, I noticed the RPMs were sort of jumping between 0 and 1000, and the engine was sputtering (like it was sputtering with the RPMs jumping, the only way I can describe this sputtering is like a heart beat). The only thing that seems to work is to turn the car off and turn it back on, which will then allow the gas pedal to work, only to have it happen again a few minutes later. The gas pedal doesn't get stuck or anything, it's just pushing it doesn't seem to accelerate the car.
I've already had the engine replaced on this car last year (at 80K) and the clutch a few months ago, too.
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This issue with my 2003 Mazda Protege 5, manual transmission, has been going on for years. I'd like to sell the car, so I'd like to fix it.
On occasion I am unable to shift into first gear from a stopped position. This never happens in the late fall, winter, or early spring - it all seems to depend on how warm it is outside. It is always fine at the start of the trip, but becomes a problem in what seems like a period of time proportional to how warm it is outside. Again, when its cool outside, it pretty much doesn't happen. But once we pass 25C / 77F it is common, and will almost certainly happen on any trip of over a 10 minutes. The hotter the weather, the faster it shows up as a problem.
If I leave the car and come back after it cools down, first gear works fine again. And I can downshift into first gear as I come to a stop with no issues - I just hate riding the clutch like that, so I've been starting in second gear instead.
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The idle speed is higher than normal, about 800-900 RPM. Whenever I stop for the traffic light, the engine will behave as if someone is pressing the gas pedal intermittently. It has new spark plug wires and coil.
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My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
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For a few months now I've been having strange electric issues with my 2009 Santa Fe GL.
At first, we had the cruise light randomly come on (not actually engaging cruise, just indicating the system is on), the ESC light would be on, and the tachometer would drop to 0 while driving, although the engine was clearly running. We had the cruise control switch replaced and that appeared to have fixed the ESC and tachometer issue.
Unfortunately, the cruise light would still come on so the brake switch was replaced a few weeks back - that did not fix the cruise light issue. Now, over the weekend two very disturbing things started happening:
1) Cruise will now randomly turn off when engaged
2) The car thinks it's in manual transmission mode, even when it's not. When in drive (D), the car will no longer switch out of first gear. In order to switch gears, I must switch to manual drive mode and change gears by using (+).
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My wife has been driving our 98 Dodge Grand Caravan the last couple of days and while she is driving the Tachometer and Speedometer will drop to 0. This does not affect the performance of the engine or anything else. Runs and drives "perfect" (or at least for its age and mileage). The dash seems to "reset" when she parks and turns off the ignition then restarts it.
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Been trying to save my miles on my 2011 GLS because I'm right at 100k (99.2K to be exact) and had a feeling something would be going wrong soon. Already had short block replacement, both CV axles replaced, steering columns, seized calipers, transmission sensors, and other repairs all done under warranty work for this stinker.
Driving to work today hear a clunk as I am driving uphill, tachometer immediately goes to zero, engine begins violently shaking, and traction control light comes on for some reason. Had my OBD scanner already plugged in and it pulls P0336 code for a crankshaft position sensor. Fortunately was close enough to home so that I drove it back and took the train to work. Probably going to take it to dealership tonight. The clunk and violent idle leads me to believe its more than a sensor problem. Car has had issues shifting over past month, but was so sporadic and not able to ever be replicated. Would maybe have a hard shift once every 2 weeks. That's about it.
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