Mazda :: 2002 - Power Steering Rock Hard To Turn?
Dec 13, 2014
So the car has 160K+ miles on it and in the past week I jumped in it and tried to take off and the steering wheel was rock hard to turn, so I assumed the power steering fluid was low and filled it up with lucas stop leak and within an hour all the stop leak leaked out the bottom of the car. The leak is normally leaves a puddle around the passenger front tire but is actively leaking out of the middle bottom of the engine. Could this be a bad power steering pump? Is it gonna cost me an arm and a leg to fix?
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Have 65k now..OEM breaks. Never an issue.. going along today had to make a fast turn left into a parking area. Hit the brakes doing about 50 made the turn. Slowly found and kept rolling to a parking spot. Went to apply the brakes and found the pedal was rock hard. The truck kept rolling slowly. Pure luck I was were I was.. I tried to shut the truck down and restart. Still rock hard pedal in up position. No breaks.. not enough to stop at idle. Checked the brake fluid and it was fine. Went inside the store to grab the delivery and when I came back out I tried to work the pedal down.. I felt some give.. put it in reverse to check it out..(couldn't go ahead no room.) slowly the breaks came back. Has been fine since.. driving all over town today. No codes or engine lights.
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In the last two days I've noticed that my steering wheel would suddenly have intermittent episodes of being hard to turn for a second or so. It has gotten progressively worse over the last 24 hours or so where when trying to make a right turn the steering wheel feels noticeably "heavy" during the turn. And in some cases after I make a turn onto a side street I let go of the steering wheel for it to straighten itself out so I can continue straight down the street I just turned on but the steering wheel doesn't straighten itself out quickly enough like it used to and I have to physically turn it back myself otherwise I'd start making a u-turn motion and careen into a parked car. Weird.
I can only conclude that there's something wrong with my power steering rack.
FYI, I have a 2009 460 SWB AWD with about 78k miles on it.
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I started noticing my wifes 2009 SE was hard to turn sometime back. I finally checked under the hood and saw this. I'm not sure which hose is which but could the clamps be causing the leak? I've got ATF Dexrom III and a turkey baster with plans to try and flush it (the long way) this weekend.
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My car steering wheel is hard to turn now and i don't know why it's doing this.
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I just replaced the power steering box on my 1979 dodge B200. now when I start it it turns hard to the right and I can't turn it to the left.
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So today out of nowhere the truck starts acting up with the steering. It got tuff to turn the wheel and then would "release" and steer ok. I drained the fluid (brownish and stinky) and added new.......
Crawled under the truck and the rack was damp....... The old fluid (likely original with 120k) had small metallic piec s in it.......Is the rack toast? Or shall I look somewhere else too?
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My Daughters 2004 Ranger has about 195K the power steering reservoir is full it turns to the left as it should (assisted power steering) turning to right there is no power steering (manual Rack) I am thinking the issue is most likely in the steering rack..
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My car's about 1.5 years old and 10k miles. About a week ago I started noticing that the power steering got a fair amount heavier/stiffer: it's suddenly a bit harder to turn the wheel. It came out of nowhere and I can't identify a cause, and the local dealership couldn't find anything wrong with the car. (2012 SE I4)
Since it's electric power steering I'm not sure what could have gone wrong here... and while it doesn't make the car un-driveable, it is rather annoying. The tire pressure is still around 37 PSI (according to the sensors) and they're Michelin.
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I have a ford f350 super duty that has a little problem turning to the left but is really hard to turn to the right. How do I fix this?
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I have an 07 Camry with a hard to turn steering wheel. I had to replace the high pressure hose from the rack due to a leak. After that I basically bled the system as one would do under normal circumstances. With the cars front wheels off the ground I turned the wheel hard left and right. The wheel did give a bit but not to the point of perfection. After many turns I put the vehicle on the ground and repeated the process. The fluid no longer leaked but the stiffness was still there.
The hose was replaced at 110,000 miles. It's currently at 112,000 miles
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The power steering on my 2001 Honda Civic intermittently cuts out and the wheel becomes really hard to turn. The belt is tight and the fluid level is correct.
The weird thing about it, is it only happens in cold weather. Everything was fine all summer, but now that the weather has turned colder the problem has reappeared. Same thing happened last year. . .
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Every time I try turning at idle or with foot on brake it wont turn at all. Is this just a super duty thing or vacuum leak or power steering pump going?
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I have an 8 inch lift with 37x13.5 inch tires and dual front steering stabilizers. when I'm stopped I can barely turn the wheel. my buddy has a 6 inch lifted excursion with 35 inch tires in his is easy, one hand no problem. Would the difference in tire size really make that big of a difference or am I having a steering pump issue?
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Last night at 2am and it was about 10 degrees out (I say the temp because it might matter?) I started my car, let it warm up to normal running standard and backed up. My car moved backwards but the wheel would not turn at all. I pull forward into my parking spot and noticed that the wheel is extremely hard to turn left or right... almost impossible.
I check under the hood and noticed that my car was leaking something onto the group but it was dark and I couldn't quite see what it was.
Checked this morning and I found that my power steering fluid was completely empty. I had a half bottle in my trunk and put it in my car, then turned my car on. All of a sudden I noticed that the fluid is leaking onto the ground. Not really leak, more like a slow/medium pour and the wheel still wouldn't not move.
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I have a 2005 VW Phaeton 4.2L with 101,000 miles on the clock. I purchased it from a dealer in Phoenix Arizona two months ago. Now, I am no stranger to flagship cars. I have a Mercedes S500, S600, CL55, E320... etc. I am also no stranger to air suspension.
Now, this car... while I LOVE it, it feels like I am driving a go-cart at boomers. My 1992 Jeep Cherokee is more luxurious than the ride on my Phaeton.
I just had major work done at a very reputable VW/Audi only shop called Pacific German in Laguna, CA. The dealer just told me that my stabilizer link bushings needed replacing and everything would be good to go (what a waste of a $400 diagnostic fee). At Pacific German, I spent $6,500 and had every last upper and lower arms replaced as well as the timing service (thermostat, water pump, etc), valve cover gaskets, tire pressure service.
The owner told me there were no codes for the suspension at all on any of his scanners (including VAG-Com). As far as the car's computer was concerned, the suspension is perfect. Only codes are for the batteries, which are new but are not VW batteries... and for the center cluster backlight (because that middle screen is not lighting up). I can control the suspension settings from comfort to firm via the knob, but that doesn't affect the ride quality. The car goes up and down just fine with the raise function and the car doesn't seem to have a leak when parked for a long time. It stays level. Tire Pressure System is not functioning properly, but the pressures are correct.
What in the world could be going on? I heard of replacing a fuse in the trunk, but which one? I do not want to give up this car, but driving it is starting to give me migraines. It feels like someone has replaced my air struts with 2x4's from Home Depot.
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So since I bought the car several months ago, I have been noticing something about the braking. Every time I get in the car the brakes are ROCK hard until I start the car, this seems abnormal to me, I never experienced this. That is not the only problem, when I am driving down the road and go to apply the brakes there is a hesitation which causes me to press harder and then the brake kind of slam on. I know its under warranty but I hate taking my car to the dealership so I'd like to know first that its a legitimate problem before I take it to VW. I know about the Hill assist, this isnt part of the issue.
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As the title states, I have a 2002 Mazda B3000 series Pickup and while everything is working great, the a/c is driving me insane!
Here's how it goes:
- Start the car, turn on the A/C, hear a click
- As I drive, after 10-20 minutes, the A/C would just either switch to (what I think is) vent; it blows humid, warm air.
- Another way to turn it off is to accelerate quickly; Note: these two scenarios are sometimes inconsistent
- Sometimes, it would occur, while other times it would just randomly turn itself off
- A solution I've found is to switch over to vent, leave it on there for a few minutes, then switch back to A/C; works for another 10-20 minutes
What I have done to fix it is to replace the freon (even though, it was never really empty; still isn't empty) and have replaced the fuse associated with the A/C.
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My brake pedal is rock hard to press and when I do press it while pushing the push to start, it does not turn on.
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I have 2011 SE, it won't start at all. The car won't start all thou all electrical are working (radio, NAV, Dashboard) but when trying to press the break pedal is hard as a rock. Dashboard computer at times tells me to press the break pedal - but it wont start, it actually turns off when i press the break and hit the start button. It happen twice before was able to start it within couple minutes.
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2004 Jetta 1.8 bought mainly as a parts car w /204K miles on it. Ran and drove fine, but the tranny had no 1st gear. Tried all sorts of things other than going inside the transmission and figured it is/was a bent shift fork. Clutch worked perfectly. Had another 02J tranny from 2003 1.8, so we swapped trannys. Could not get any response from the clutch.
Start the car in neutral and it won't disengage enough to shift into gear. Start it in gear with clutch pedal in and it is obviously slipping/burning/chattering. Have bled the slave cylinder to no end, have reverse pressurized it into the reservoir , etc, etc. Made up a block off plate to go over the end of the slave actuator and when the actuator is "blocked" from moving the clutch pedal is rock solid hard. Yet, the clutch acts as if the actuator isn't extending far enough. Have swapped out the original slave cylinder with the one from the '03, no change.
Removed tranny yesterday to check the condition of the throw out bearing and pivot and Pressure plate. All appeared fine. Reinstalled tranny and same issue.
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