Mazda :: 2002 - Popping Noise - CV Joints Going Out?
Jun 19, 2014
I have a 2002 Mazda Protege5. It was showing signs of the CV joints going out (popping noises) so I had them replaced. Now there is still popping noises but they are different. They are less frequent. Instead of a pop, pop, pop... when turning it will pop,...........pop,........pop.... and it will only due this when it is hot outside. It also makes the noises when going over bumps some of the time. I took it back into the mechanic and had him look over everything again and he said that all the tie rods and cv joints and everything looked great. He thought it might be a wearing strut or an over tightened strut.
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I have a 2002 Passat Auto 1.8T, and everytime I slow down I have this loud creaking, or popping noise. It usually happens when the car is slowing down, or when I'm first starting off from a red light, stop sign, etc. It's annoying as hell! I searched the forums, and no one had this exact problem.
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I recently purchased new tires and rims for my Mazda 626 thinking it would get rid ot the loud tire noise (2 rims were bent). However, the noise still exists. I cannot seem top pin point the source of the noise but, it increases with speed.
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I have a 2002 Mazda Protege5 and recently it will make a grinding noise at 3,200 rpm (in every gear). It sounds like you touched the side of a rotating drill on a piece of metal or something like that. The mechanic said it was my clutch but my clutch isn't showing any of the tail tail signs of it needing to be replaced and frankly I don't trust the guy. Will replacing the clutch fix this noise? Could it be something completely unrelated to my clutch?
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The other day I was leaving work and I switched on the ac. I heard an audible popping noise and the air immediately stopped being cold. I pulled over and popped the hood, it smelled like freon and I'm sure it was mixed with compressor oil as there is oil stains all around the compressor now. Did I blow my compressor? Is there a blow off valve that could have been tripped? The compressor is not kicking on now, I don't know if it is blown or this is due to all the freon spraying out? It had been squealing on startup for a little while, I assumed it was a belt.... 2002 echo....
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I drive a 2002 Mazda Protege and it's been great to me until this past weekend. I had a 4.5-5 hour trip ahead of me and Google Maps told me a more direct route (i.e. not using the interstates) would save time. It must have erroneously assumed that the highway comprising basically the entire trip would be speed limit 55-65 the entire way. Instead, I found myself slowing down to stoplights and stop signs in small villages between 15-minute sprints. At some point, the interior heat stops - the air being pulled in from outside is not being warmed at all, no matter what settings I fiddle with. Not long thereafter I notice a rattling noise behind the dash. From inside the car it sounds almost like an animal skittering around in the chassis - irregular, short and clipped. With the hood up and an ear to the engine, it sounds like a piece of plastic fluttering in the wind, but with a faint electric "crackling" quality. Soon thereafter the check-engine light illuminates.
Before long the engine overheats and I pull over to the side of the road. Nothing appears to be leaking, and the crackling sound is the only thing noticable. Being in the middle of nowhere, I jumped back in and proceeded to drive at about 35-40, which was warm on the engine but enough to get me to a small town. At this point I checked the coolant reservoir and it was empty. Bought some from Wal-mart, poured it in, and headed out. Things looked fine at first since the engine had sat cold while I was running errands, but pretty soon it was overheating again at speeds as low as 30mph. After getting it towed to my destination, I took it to a garage the next morning. They couldn't find anything wrong with it, and indeed when I drove it back to the hotel that morning the engine behaved normally, the check-engine light was off, and the interior heating was functioning properly.
The next morning, when it was time to depart (but again after an entire night of sitting in the cold), a 20 minute drive to breakfast was smooth as before. Thinking that the mechanic had either waved a magic wand or I'd gotten extremely lucky, I hit the highway and did 65 for a good 20 minutes until the engine began to overheat again. Slowing down to 45 bought a few more minutes to find an exit, but eventually I had to pull over. Popping the hood, I notice the coolant in the reservoir is bubbling to the top! Thinking the mechanic might have added more and overfilled it, I cursed him in absentia. After a good fifteen minutes of cooling off, the coolant settled and in fact drained the reservoir entirely; I refilled it to the line and, again being in rural snowtopia with few options, decided to hit the road again. Not wanting to tempt fate, I stuck to 55mph and the car ran fine for an hour and a half (with the interior heat blasting, per a friend's advice). I stopped once to check the coolant and all was as it should have been - just below the line I'd filled it to earlier. Closer to a city, I decided to experiment again and took the speed up to 60mph.
This was great for 20-30 minutes but eventually the engine began overheating ever-so-slowly and I had to pull over, let it cool off, and replace another full reservoir's worth of coolant that had disappeared before I kept going. I drove the rest of the way home going no faster than 55mph and stopping on occasion to check the coolant. It overheated once even while doing 55mph, but a 15 minute break + coolant refill bought it the rest of the trip. In summary: Although not 100% correlated, going faster than 55mph seems to trigger the engine overheating, at which point the rattling noise appears and the coolant begins to bubble its way back up the reservoir (like it's boiling?!). I'm not sure how the coolant is disappearing because I'm unable to find any leak, nor is there any extra exhaust that would suggest it's burning.
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I have owned a 2002 Volvo S60 2.4L for the past two years, and she has served me well. However, I have been having issues lately. She has hit 179,400-ish miles and with age things have started to fail. I want to know how much it will cost to fix these things and if I can do it myself.
There is a metallic popping noise coming from the right front side of the vehicle every time I make a turn (I haven't particularly noticed if it's a left- or right-hand turn when it happens.) I have been advised by my father that it's probably a CV (constant velocity) joint. Is that what's causing the noise?
My right front headlight has gone out, and I've replaced the bulb as well as the fuse, but it's still out. Could it be faulty wiring? The left front blinker has stopped blinking, I hope that's as simple as changing out the bulb.
The shift is automatic, but in the mornings (I've noticed it's mostly when it's cold outside) I attempt to move the shifter out of park and it won't budge for several minutes. Sometimes I have to turn the engine off, and then turn it back on for the shifter to move.
One last question- how often should I change and/or flush my transmission fluid and the filter, and can I do that myself or should I take it to the dealership? (Which I am reluctant to do.)
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I drive a 2002 Protege5 with about 125K miles. The suspension (struts and mounts) and brakes have been recently replaced and, with the arising of the Mystery Noise, checked by a mechanic as of last week. The noise sounds like a creaking or bumping in the front end of the vehicle, and comes primarily when slowing to a stop, when the brakes are applied or not. The pace slows as you stop. And it is not always predictable: the mechanic could not recreate the noise, but my wife and I hear it all the time.
I'm just speculating, but should we be looking at the bearings, axles, CV joints... or is this going to get even more expensive? What should I ask the mechanic to look at on this thing?
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After 240,000 miles I had to get the ball joints on my 02 f250 2 wheel drive replaced and the alignment set. I notice that the steering is really tight. In fact that it will not attempt to return to center on the highway. The guy that did the work has 30 years experience doing this sort of thing and he says I just need to drive it and it will loosen up. Interested in hearing from others that have replaced ball joints; Is this normal? How long do they take to loosen up?
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Bought the EX from my sister 2 years ago, I know that she's had the ball joints replaced several times and have read on here how some people have only gotten 20K miles out of a set. Anyway, I have the same clunk and I spent one Saturday changing them out ( as well as new brakes and rotors ) I still have the same cluck sound. I've just read a thread on the hubs rattling and its related to the needle bearings wearing out. I'll lock it in 4WD to see if the clunk goes away but I don't think that's going to work.
Would bad / incorrectly adjusted wheel bearings make this same sound? When doing the ball joints, I saw one set must have been rebuilt since the locknut looked brand new and the other side showed its been there a while.
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I have a 2003 f250 superduty v-10 -- 4x4 -- when turning with 4wheel drive disengaged I have consistent thumping sound coming from front end -- more so when turning to left but still prevalent on right turns -- I put new hubs in due to the grinding noise when driving slow to mid speeds -- like axles not totally disengaging and grinding on teeth. but this is a secondary noise -- replaced left front axle with dorman unit -- tried to replace u joints on oe axle but rusted so badly couldn't get c clips to separate from ujoints --
this one is kicking my butt and making me look like a novice -- don't think it is ball joints or anything suspension related but I could be wrong -- sounds like thump thump thump as turning in slightly tight circle or going around corner in the parking lot.
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Pulled into the yard today after about a 20 mile haul with my 2015 f450 6.7.
I shut it down after pulling in, from what i knew everything was fine. 20 minutes later i started it codes and lights went off like the four of july. A wrench light, oil light, temp light and maybe even an obama light. The gauges did not even move. I shut it down, let it cool then after starting it only the CEL came on. I bought two new trucks in 2015 and both had front end alignments off. The f450 doors fill up with water when it rains.
One day after a rain I put my seat belt on and the seat belt was soaking wet. The cab corner where the seat belt spools up was full of water. The tie rods and ball joints started making sounds after 20k miles so i checked them to find they didn't have ANY grease in them!!!! The def fill tube broke off driving through a small dip in the road (i heard it pop). My first new truck....glad l have my 96 7.3.
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i have a 2002 jeep liberty.the cv shaft is popping.do i have to replace anything besides shaft.to fix jeep.
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I have a 2002 volvo v70 xc just had the passenger side strut replaced and now every time i make a sharp turn usually in reverse to the left my driver side wheel makes a horrible popping sound. It will also make said sound sitting still and turning the wheel same direction very sharply. Could this possibly be from when i had it worked on? They originally told me i needed new control arm bushings then decided i needed a new strut. Could they have possibly messed with anything that could have caused this?
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2002 Excursion 7.3l
Problem: Popping noise only on making turns, feels like its coming from underneath me. If i drive through a parking lot and jerk the wheel right and left I can make it do the same sound.
What's been done:
1. Replaced ALL the body mounts with new aftermarket mounts.
2. Replaced front leaf springs with new ubolts and everything
3. replaced sway bar end links
I took it to a local dealership to have them check it out (they are very trusted and reputable and I have an excellent relationship with them) and they thoroughly checked out everything. It's not the ball joints or anything front end (ball joints were replaced by them a year ago).
I'm at a complete loss, I feel I "attacked" all the common problems in these trucks that would cause that popping sound....what's left???
They assure me theres no safety issue or anything that would be a huge cause for concern, but that pop drives me a little crazy. I am a little OCD with my trucks.
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Have 2002 mazda protege 5 . During acceleration at 3000 rpm the engine hesitates. Computer said o2 sensor, replaced it but that wasn't it. Drilled out both catalytic, that wasn't it. Found hole in mass air flow tube, figured that is it. I haven't replaced that yet, however I used gorilla tape thinking it would be a temporary fix but that didn't work. I know I need to replace that tube, but think that it may now be a fuel pump issue??
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I was driving on the highway one day at 70 mph (the speed limit here) and all of a sudden it felt and sounded like I was crossing onto the shoulder - a frontal vibration and mmm. I have had the tires balanced and the front end checked. I have even just had two new engine mounts replaced. The problem is still there! What is it? How can I check it?
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2002mazda protege5,2.3 ltr engine.had the timing belt changed, then the problem started after the belt was replaced.took back- scan showed short in #2 cylinder and vacuum code.they fixed coil problem for #2 cylinder but vacuum code went away.once rmp get above 2500 accelerates o.k.hesitates when taking off from stop sign, etc.could vac hose be missing somewhere?seems to act like it floods when taking off.does vacuum control timing advance or gas/air mixture?
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I've recently purchased a 02 F-150 4x4 with 135k showing. About a week after purchase 4 COP's were replaced to eliminate a skip that started the day I drove it home. After a few hundred more miles it started shuttering at take off, much the same as the trans shuttering usually in higher gears/speeds. Only does it briefly in 1st gear and occasionally it goes into 2nd, but stops immediately after shift. After about 10 miles it stops doing it and until the trucks sits awhile it stays gone. About the same time a popping sound started coming from the rear axle at slow speeds. It changes sides as you drive and turn, and sometimes goes away intermittently altogether. Also is it possible or probable the two are related ?
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My 2002 Mazda MPV will stall everytime after the rpms go over 2,000 and I let off the gas. I can put it in neutral and it will start back up. Not sure if something is clogged or its electrical? It has 177,000
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2002 Mazda MPV Engine Light comes on. At first I thought we left the gas cap off or did not tighten it down. I waited all week to see if the light would go out but no luck. I filled the tank up with gas and the light went out right away on start up. We drove the car for several days and the light went back on. I then filled the tank again and the light went right out on start up.
I thought it might be a bad gas cap so I replaced it. Again we drove the car for several more days and the light went on. Filled up again and lights out. We did notice that the light stayed off longer when the weather is colder. The light usually goes out with in the first 1/4 tank depending on how cold the days are.
The mechanic that is working on it now says the code is P0443. He checked everything mechanical finding nothing. Now he is claiming it is an electrical problem and needs more time $$$ to find it.
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