Mazda :: 1997 - Engine Race Then Chug And RPM Drops At High Speed?
Jun 5, 2012
I have a Mazda 626 (V6) with about 150K miles and a funny engine racing problem. It occurs only when I'm going highway speeds (for me, 70MPH) and the car has been running for about 15 minutes. The engine will race, then chug and RPMs will drop down again, then it will race, etc. If I slow down, it will stop racing, but often start again as soon as I put my foot back on the gas pedal. If I don't get on the highway (running 60MPH and under), the car is completely fine.
I've taken it to my mechanic twice; the first time had the fuel filter replaced, the second time got new spark plugs, but it's still doing it. What else it might be?
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I have a 1997 Toyota Hilux (unleaded, not diesel) and I'm looking for input as she keeps breaking down but no one is able to figure out the problem. While in gear and driving, the gas stops engaging and the speed slowly drops. The car stutters while slowing down but then if I switch gears or rev the engine it will stop. After some time this continues to happen more frequently (at all speeds) until the car eventually stops and dies. Try to restart and the engine will turn over but not start. After sitting for a night or so, though, she starts up and runs just fine. Thus no mechanics have been able to solve the issue!
Could be a fuel problem as the exhaust pipe makes a banging sound when this happens, but it could also be electrical.
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have a 98 rodeo, with a V6 & Auto trans. have an intermittent problem - as I am driving engine will occasionally drop to idle speed and then pick back up to driving speed. Engine keeps running smoothly, just at idle speed.
CEL does not come on / no codes
Replaced Throttle Position Sensor - and thought I had found the problem, but since it is so random, it just didn't happen again for 1 1/2 weeks.
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My 2000 B5 1.8t began getting the Low Oil Pressure warning light over the winter, and has gotten progressively worse. I added a mechanical oil pressure gauge and I'm seeing about 20 psi on a cold engine at idle. If I rev to ~2500 the pressure DROPS to between 5 and 10 (and triggers the STOP! light).
I tried a bottle of autoRX, but probably too late- I could only run about 200 miles before the STOP! light wouldn't allow me to get out of the driveway.
What might cause the pressure to DROP as engine speed increases? a Clogged screen or worn pump possibly? It would be nice if it was something I could correct without pulling the engine (but I'm not expecting that).
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[URL] .... Mazda 2.3 Liter 4 cyl. accelerates fine in all gears, but once you reach a steady speed in any gear, it jerks and bumps. Does not run smooth unless you are accelerating?
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When I rev the engine it momentarily goes down to below normal idling speed (sometimes it completely shuts off)then goes up to normal idle. I have found that if I press the throttle too hard before it recovers it always shuts off.
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I'm having a bit of a problem with my 09 Prius. I've got 120K miles on it, and I have multiple codes on the hybrid battery. I don't know exactly which codes they are, I will see if they are on the paperwork that I have and post them if I can find them. Either way, the battery will be replaced.
But it's the problems I'm having in the meantime that have me concerned. While I am driving, and seemingly under any condition, my engine will suddenly start to race with no effect on acceleration. In fact, when it has happened on the interstate, the car will decelerate. When I pull the car off the side of the road and power cycle the car, it temporarily clears up the problem. The frequency of this occurrence is increasing. The first time I experienced the problem, last week, it happened twice during a 3 hour drive. 2 days ago it occurred 12 times during another 3 hour drive.
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2000, 2.5L standard transmission. IAC replaced about 2 years ago, DPFE sensor and vacuum hoses replaced early last summer. Truck has been running just fine until I washed it last night. Went to work, and when coming to a stop and pressing in the clutch, engine starts to race without coming back to idle. Had to turn the truck off in order to get the engine from racing. Same thing on the way home. What else can/should I be looking at? I did not open the hood to wash the engine off, so it can't be water from the wash.
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I have a 2000 f-150 4x4 that has only high fan speed for a/c heater. Speeds 1-2-3- no longer exist. Is it a switch or a control module? Also, the door code for the rear differential is 19; is that limited slip?
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My '97 Honda Civic overheats when driven at high speed on the highway for more than an hour. I've changed the thermostat and the radiator fan, but it still does it.
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I have had issues for over a week now first problem check engine light not sure of the code but the mechanic said it was the spark plugs and vaccum leak hose (which I knew about the hose). $205.00 later replaced all 6 plugs and hose. Now today on way to work I'm getting that hesitation when in lower gear such as stopping and then accelerating it jerks some it was doing this alot before replacing the plugs.
We did a diagnostic code reader and it said the code P2402 I did read it could be my gas cap which I don't have a dealer gas cap on there now I did about 1 yr 1/2 ago but got a lock key gas cap instead. I have been doing some reading I would need to replace leak detection pump which apparently costly in repair.
BTW car has 119,000 miles I commute far from work 5 days a week. My car is very important part of my life! I did also read someone stated there was a recall on Mazda 6 wondering do I need to call the dealership to see if this is actual recall and I can cross my fingers get this fixed on them.
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I have a 99 Lumina 3.1l. I live in a cold climate (-15f). I hadn't driven the car in 2 months, and the block heater doesn't work as there is a short somewhere.
I want to get the car on the road again and before insuring it I tried to start it Friday. To its credit it started up almost right away - its always been great in the cold. I let it run for 30 minutes to heat everything up.
I insured it Saturday and went to start it and won't go. Turned over & over & over, and the engine will chug every now and then but won't catch. Its a few degrees colder than it was Friday, but not by much.
It did have just under a quarter tank of gas, so I'm wondering if it could be condensation in the fuel system somewhere that was sucked in while idling on Friday? If so I don't really know what to do about that. Or could there are other things to check/try.
I'm replacing the plug on the block heater, but don't think thats the short. I was going to drive it to the garage to have them replace the cord (as I doubt its the block heater itself) but have to get it started to do that
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I have a 2005 Exploer Sport Trac with 236K on it
recently changed all plugs & wires as well as the coil pack to stop a sputter in the motor. it worked. now, very periodically and only for a split second i will loose all rpm and then back up again to normal. I was told that the computer may be going but i've plugged it in and it wont turn on a reader. other than that one hickup she runs like a dream now.
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About a week ago I purchased a new K&N air filter for my '09 GLI (6spd stick & all factory options with 55,000k on the odometer). Outwardly the vehicle seemed to run better (although a new clean air filter of any type will make a vehicle run better) however, 2 days later I noticed that the engine seems to chug a little when it was cold. Not missing like a plug wire off but a chug where it surges forward then holds back continually until the engine warms up. This persists today. I've also noticed a little bit of a rough idle. I've re-inspected my installation and nothing seems to have come loose and the filter fits perfectly.
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1995 Tacoma with 2.7 EFI engine has high idle speed. When cranked cold idles at 800 rpm but as it warms up idle speed increases up around 1600 rpm. Does not idle down when clutch is fanned, have checked for vacuum leaks and have also checked most sensors. The exhaust manifold is cracked and I am not sure if this might be part of the problem. I am not convinced issue is not vacuum related but not sure of a definite way to resolve this question or issue.
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I was driving on a high speed highway (70 limit) doing 80 on cruise control and about 10 mins into my drive the car disengaged itself of the cruise control and the check engine came on for about 5 seconds while the car was forcefully slowing down by itself and then the check engine disappeared and I accelerated back to 80 and set it again for the rest of my hour drive. It wasn't just disengaging of cruise control it was like the engine shut off for a few seconds and then came back on.
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2004 2.4l engine has high idle speed aprrox. 1000rpm.
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Recently I've noticed that when I take my car up to highway speeds- 55 MPH or higher- the engine feels as though it hesitates- I don't actually slow down, but I have trouble accelerating beyond where it starts to lag. It's like an imaginary bump my car is going over where the engine isn't fully accelerating. Happens for a second, then goes away, but lately it's happening often- several times in a row- it just feels laggy, sometimes continuously, and i've got a bad feeling about it.Tires and brakes are completely new (Nov 2011, calipers, rotors, and pads replaced), oil level is checked weekly and has been fine lately. ~200k miles. It's a manual/ 4spd, I don't know if this is clutch/ transmission slippage, or if I have a piston misfiring, OR if maybe it's a fuel injection problem,,,,
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I've replaced all (3) ignition coils, both O2 sensors, wires and plugs, air filter, fuel filter...Also experience some missing at low rpms as well...not sure what the problem is?
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Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
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2013 Elantra has occasionally high engine revs at low speed. No check engine light. Transmission is not slipping .... Just high engine revs in traffic at low speed ( under 40 mph).
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