I can see where coolant has leaked out from underneath and come out the sides of the motor beneath the intake gasket.. probably a bad definition but yall probably know what i mean.. i know its a common 3100 motor problem.
View 14 RepliesToday, the air conditioning stopped working in my 2003 Elantra. Just stopped blowing cold air. Then the engine thermometer kept on climbing. When I pulled over home, I lifted the hood and heard a lot of bubbling and gurgling sounds, and coolant fluid leaked out underneath the car.
What could be the cause of this? When I let the car stay for a while, the AC did kick back on, but only for a few moments and the thermometer kept on climbing again until I turned the car off. The fan is blowing, I can hear it, but it is obviously not cooling the engine off appropriately.
A bit over a week ago, I posted about a major coolant "spew" in my shed.
View 5 RepliesSo I was going to change the oil today and noticed that there was coolant that leaked all over the engine. I don't know where it came but I washed it off (should have snapped a pic!), so today I will try to drive around a bit and pop the hood again to see where it is coming from.
I'm guessing it leaked from one of the hoses or something. I recently got everything changed (timing belt, water pump, new radiator) about 3k miles ago or so.
I took her offroading earlier in the week two days in a row as well and went through some rough terrain in 90+ degree heat.
I have a 24v Vr6, a couple days ago i spotted some water on my garage floor. I looked in the engine bay and I saw some coolant on this metal can looking piece, it's on the passenger side of the car to the left of the headlight door and a couple inches down. I also looked all the way at the bottom of the engine bay on on the plastic shield there is quite a bit of coolant that has leaked onto there.
View 2 RepliesBought an 07 ES350 from a reputable dealer in March 2013. Had 65k miles when i got it. Had it about 6 wks and 2400 miles and noticed some reddish leaks under the engine. Thought it was trans fluid. I was driving to the dealership to get it fixed - when i noticed the temp guage up near the red zone and the heater (was 39 degrees F out) was blowing cold air. I started to get in the right lane - when all of the lights on the dash lit up - including the "check engine" light. I was able to get over - i think the car actually stalled.
Anyway - after a tow to the dealer - it was the water pump had leaked out "all" of my coolant. At 67k miles having a water pump fail on a Lexus? Did i do permanent damage to the engine?
Ok so I have an 04 Jetta 2.0 and lately it's been overheating on me. The first time it started overheating was because my radiator was cracked and leaked out all my coolant, I swapped the radiator everything was fine for a while. The second time I started overheating, I saw my primary fan was bad it wasn't spinning at all, I swapped it everything was fine for another while. I also changed the coolant temp sensor, it wasn't bad it's just because the coolant flange was leaking coolant, so I changed it a long with the O-Rings and sensor. I also changed the thermostat just incase that was the problem but it wasn't.
I don't think the fans are turning on by them selves when they have too, but either way the car still overheats when I turn on the fans manually with the A/C. I'm not sure if the coolant is circulating, as the car only begins to overheat when I come to a stop and it idles. I have a feeling it's the water pump but I wanna be sure it is before I change it. What it could be? Things that I should check for that usually go out?
I have a 04' RX 330 with 92k. It has small radiator leak. If you are standing in front of the car and look below the fan on the left side of the radiator you can see a small amount of red fluid that has leaked out of the radiator. However, the leak isn't big enough that I ever have to add coolant I just top it off when I get the oil changed. Also it doesn't puddle on the pavement when parked.
The only thing I really notice is that my windows tend fog abit easier now so I assuming the moisture must be making its way into the ventalation somehow. My mechanic said its about a $700 repair. My question should I fix it and is $700 reasonable. Also I've never had the timing belt replaced would it make since do have this done at the same time as the radiator. How long will it take before it becomes a major problem instead of a minor annoyance?
So far it was the coldest day this early morning at 5am when i went to work here LA at 55 degrees i don't know if it had something to do with this coolant leak. Iwent home from work at 1:30 pm. 2 miles away from home, i get the STOP Coolant warning on the display check manual .
After parking at home, saw some smoke in front of the car maybe because the engine was hot and the coolant spraying in the engine bay some hitting the Evoms intake and there's a lot of coolant liquid just beside the oil filter underneath the air intake. also saw lots of coolant leaked into the floor surface.
I went inside got some coolant and filled with coolant almost full. after taking a nap,drove the R too see if the coolant warning is gone. not even 50 meters coolant warning lit. drove for 1.5 miles to Century City mall to buy stuff, after parking, i popped the hood then surprised, coolant tank was TOTALLY EMPTY! Engine was hot as well, decided to call tow truck.
I hope it's just a lose coolant hose.
So, I have a 2003 Passat Wagon GLS with a 1.8T and 110600 miles on it...
Here is my dilemma... I try and change my oil every 4.5 to 5 months and the passat has been running like a champ, but recently noticed the car was beginning to sound like a diesel engine and we were starting to go through the coolant..
Throughout this entire time my gas mileage seemed to have improved and I never noticed any oil or antifreeze/coolant leaking underneath, and it wasn't until recent that we noticed a loss in power.
My wife had checked the oil and noticed a yellowish/rust-like junk on the dipstick, as well as the dipstick not registering any oil... We also noticed the turbo was whistling during hill climbs.
We still have about two months until a required oil change is needed, but when it comes to mileage we surpassed it.
Just replaced the lower radiator hose. Added back in the coolant, it bubbled out air as it filled the radiator. Now when I start it , the engine low coolant light comes on. There is plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
After a couple of minuets, the car warms to half way from cold to red line ( normal temp) then the car runs really crappy, misfiring and then stalling!!
Is their a bleed port on this engine or something that needs doing after the coolant loop has been disturbed?
I drive a 1999 Chevy Malibu. My car overheated the other day so I pulled over and realized the overflow was bone dry. So I added water and finished my trip. By the time I got there the car was overheating again and the overflow was again empty. I have changed the water pump, the thermostat, and the overflow cap. Whats happening now is when I crank it the car Idles fine until it gets warm, then steam starts to come out of the overflow hose coming from the cap. If I drive it not only steam but all my coolant just starts pouring out of this thing. I was told this might mean a busted head, but there is no coolant in my oil or water coming out of my exhaust.
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 has had a slow coolant leak for quite a while (maybe a quart a month). Now, however, I am losing over a gallon a week, but with NO visible leak!
The oil is clear, with no signs of antifreeze in it, so I am guessing the head gaskets are ok. But I am perplexed as to where my coolant is going!
After reading more threads in the forum, (which I should have done more thoroughly before posting,) it seems that I may indeed have a head gasket leak. From what I've learned, that would cause me to lose coolant through the exhaust while driving, and would explain why I don't see a visible leak anywhere. Am I on the right track? Before I replace the head gaskets, are there any other causes that may have a simpler fix??
I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu, V6, 3.1, auto, 140k miles. Car started out with code 0420 with no noticeable symptoms, but then added code 0303 (miss fire cyl #3) with loud knock (mostly after warmup) and loss of power under load. Now internal loss of coolant (no puddles or external drips). Changed plugs and wires - no change - all plugs looked good with no sign of contamination. Questions - if this is a valve/piston/lifter problem (which would explain the knock, miss-fire and loss of power), why would I get the loss in coolant? If the loss of coolant is fouling plug #3 (which would explain the coolant loss, miss fire and loss of power), could that give me the loud knocking? I don't see how a valve/piston/lifter issue would cause a leak in coolant but I also don't see how a coolant leak into cyl #3 would give me such a loud knock. Do I have two different problems? If it is a leak into cyl #3, is there any way to tell if it is the intake manifold gasket (which leaked before and was replaced five-six years ago and which I could do again if I had to) or a blown head gasket (which I don't think I could fix or afford to get fixed)? Engine will occasionally get hot (but not overheat).
View 7 RepliesI believe the condenser has leaked out. IS it safe to replace or do I need to take it in to flush out any residual freon? Just want to be safe.
View 19 RepliesMy ecu capacitors leaked all over my ecu board which is normal for the 1gen 3000gt's. A guy from work who had the proper tools was able to hook me up and fix the board, so far so good.
View 1 RepliesI set the auto fill at the chevron pump to fill the tank. The autofill never shut off and fuel sprayed everywhere.
Fuel leaked out for 15 minutes from the fill port . I had the pump checked by weights and measures and the pump is not at fault.
Now the fuel gauge is stuck at full.
I have a 97 camry that oil leaked out in like 1/2 block engine is locked and also now the trans wont go into park it like its in neutral the linkage is all connected was told Camrys have an oil pressure interlock that will stop the engine when oil pressure get too low. i think a oil pump seal went in engine, where should I start to get it running..
View 1 RepliesI was underneath my car yesterday (09 ES 350, 60k miles) doing an oil change and noticed oil and grease caked to the back of each side of the firewall and running down over the axles. I also found a small pool of transmission fluid in the splash pan beneath the transmission fluid cooler. It appears fluid is escaping past the factory "pinch clamps." .
I plan to replace the pinch clamps with the screw/bolt style adjustable ones. My thoughts are that maybe the WS ATF is too viscous for these pinch clamps, or that maybe under heavy load there's too much pressure for them to withstand leaking/seeping. I'm estimating I may have lost up to 1/3 of a quart up to this point, but can't be for sure. I thought it might be engine oil, but found the back of the engine to be dry and my VVTI return line is metal and not leaking. I'll definitely be checking the fluid level soon, although the car is running and shifting fine.
I have a 1998 Saturn with about 270,000 miles. Two weeks ago, I was shifting in and out of reverse and drive, trying to get out of a tight spot in my driveway. Suddenly, I heard some sputtering noises. The transmission started jamming and jarring, rather than shifting. I got out of the car and saw transmission fluid rapidly leaking all over the driveway. I put the car in park, turned it off, and haven't done anything for about two weeks because I had to go out of town.
Now that I'm back at home, I'm trying to assess the situation. I'm not sure if I should spend any money for a mechanic to even diagnose this car because it's only worth a few hundred dollars, if that. I figure that any diagnosis and repair work will probably far exceed the value of the car. I guess the worst case scenario is that the transmission is blown. I would not invest in a new or rebuilt transmission. I suppose the best case scenario is that this is merely a leak that might only require a $2-$300 repair. I don't think I could justify spending upwards of that, $400 or more, on this car.
2004 Santa Fe, 130k, auto, 2.4L engine, FWD
Bought this car during the winter and didn't need to use the air conditioning until recently, which as you could guess blows warm. Filled up with R134a and all was good for a few days, nice and cold.
Then after about 5 days it was blowing warm again. About half of the refrigerant had leaked out. Looked like the schrader valve/valve core was leaking on the low side so pulled it out and put in a new one. Filled up with new refrigerant, same thing... lasted a few days and now warm air again.
Is there a common spot for leaks on this model? I know I need to get a can of r134 with dye in it to try and find the leak, but I heard it can be the evap core which you can't see openly. Do the hoses normally leak? should I replace all the O-rings, etc?