Malibu :: 2005 - Switch On Shifter Will Not Move Transmission Down To 2nd Or 1st Gear
Oct 4, 2014
I need removing the console on a 2005 Malibu Max. The switch on the shifter will not move the transmission down to 2nd or 1st gear. There was a post by "shadow5599" on 05-05-2009 stating that this problem was caused by a broken wire in the harness under the console leading to the shifter +/- switch. He said it was easy to fix but the console needed to be removed. Later on the same day he posted that he had just posted the instructions on how to remove it. I'm a first time user on this site and I haven't been able to locate those instructions.
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I have a 2004 2.0L Jetta with a 5 Speed manual transmission.
When shifting into third gear sometimes I push the shifter forward and it does not want to move all the way forward. It feels like I am pushing the shifter knob against a wall, or more accurately the bottom of the shift that pulls the cables feels like it is hitting a wall. If I pull it back out and press it in hard it will go into place sometimes.
This also solves the problem: While the shifter is mid shift into third, at the wall/ at the point of resistance, I let off the clutch slightly to give the flywheel some friction. This rolls the transmission a bit and allows third gear to slide into place.
I have experience with a MK4 Audi TT 1.8T that cam with a 6-SPD and it at had a 1-2 and 2-3 synchronizer issue (The one where the nipples are worn and it grinds at higher RPMS because they can no longer make a firm handshake). The issue I am experiencing is not that.
Could it be the transmission cables? Could it be some other cogs in the transmission? - If so does this mean I need to buy a used one? My car has 180K miles on it with the original clutch.
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Here is what I have:
2009 Santa Fe 3.3L AWD
70k KMs / 43k Miles
Temp has been very cold, -20C / -4 F
Car starts up without any problems. Try to put car in Reverse and the shifter is very hard to move, if it moves at all. When I am able to get it into Reverse, I then try to put it in Drive and it does not "engage" the "D" and the car behaves like its in Neutral. Moving the shifter back to Park, Neutral, Drive is very difficult and sometimes it will not go into Park. The dash lights do not illuminate the selected P, R, N, D.
However, once the car is warmed up (no longer on C on the temperature gauge) I can with a little effort move the shifter freely (but more effort than it should take) and the car behaves normally. Gear shifts are smooth and in general it is operating normally.
The dash lights do illuminate the selected P, R, N, D. I've checked the Trans fluid level and it appears to be normal and was planning to change it this w-e but I'm no longer sure it will work. Even if it has never been changed.
Also note that I have recently changed a wheel/hub bearing due to a noise that sounds a lot like loud tires on a highway. The bearing change did not eliminate the noise and I assumed that I've changed the wrong one. The noise does not appear to be coming from the Trans, but I cant be 100% sure. The noise is speed related and occurs only after about 20KM/h 16MPH. Unsure if they are related..
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Got in to go to work this am, and the gear shifter was difficult to move. What to check?
I drove 70 miles to work and didn't seem like any issues with the transmission shifting.
Got in to go to lunch and it seems even more difficult to move...
Shifting back and forth in the selector seems to loosen things up a little.
A friend move the selector while I looked at the linkage and the bracket that support the cable is flexing while shifting between gears....More likely a transmission issue or something with the linkage?
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This morning as I get in to drive my kid to school (2005 2.7 2 wd auto) as I go to put it in reverse I noticeably have to pull it with some force. I have never had to "force it" before, it had always switched gears with ease. This time it felt very stiff but had no issues going into gear. After I dropped my son off at school I went through the gears up and down and it felt very stiff (at this point i have no issues with starting it or P).
At lunch I go out to get something to eat and when I go to start it up it won't start. I try and try and nothing. All the lights came on, it's not a battery issue at all (brand new). But after 10 tries it starts, so I'm pretty happy. Then I go to put it in gear (reverse) I can not press in the button on the side of the gear shift. It will not go in. I press with all my might and it wont budge. But again, after about 10 good tries at it goes in and I can then select my gear but still feels very stiff.
After stopping again I didn't shut off the engine and dicked around with the shifter basically figured out that my car is not recognizing Park. On the instrument panel each gear lights up but not P. It gets very stiff when trying to put it in P but it doesn't actually go into P. If I put it in P (or really the further up it will go) and shut off the car, it won't start again. I can start it up in N and only N.
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My 2004 expedition wont go into any gear the shifter will not move I changed the stop light brake switch and a 30 amp buss fuse I found blown and also the check engine light is on now too this was after I parked it I also changed a 30 amp buss fuse I found blown out but it still don't work the only way I can get it into gear is to push the little button under steering wheel...
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My 2000 ford excursion gauges fuse keeps popping. It started earlier this year and I couldn't pin point when it would pop. Now I'm sure after 30.00 worth of fuses that it happens when I change the gear shifter from park or rev to drive.
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So my friends 2002 camry has a problem where she shifts the shifter into drive, but the gear position indicator in the cluster still shows her in park, and the car will still be in park with parking pawl engaged. is this a sensor that went out, or a deeper transmission problem to be dealt with?
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I have a 1998 Mazda Protege LX Automatic, and my ignition switch is completely unresponsive: when on accessory or run position nothing comes on.
I am also noticing that I can switch gears even with the key out and brake pedal not depressed.
I tried to check the function of the ignition switch, and found the following:1) It has one white wire with 3.5v2) When the switch is in Acc position, a black wire with white stripe also has 3.5V on it now3) WHen the switch is in On position, all the wires going into the Switch have 3.5V on them...
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Well I read most of the 2011 manual last night to find out why I have "M" on my gearshift, & found it near the end...so we can manually shift our gears. So I normally drive in D, and I use the tow/haul switch when trailing...so under what circumstances does the normal person need to manually shift through 5 gear positions using M, and the 5-position switch?
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On my 2012 Avalon, moving shifter to the left of "D" for manual mode causes a downshift to 4th gear. Is it supposed to do this? For me, this would be poor design in that I may be setting up to pass, but not quite ready to downshift to 5th yet. And even going 60mph it still gets 4th... Or I may be going to climb a mountain (as I was going to Colorado last week) and only need 5th, not 4th. So I have to upshift to 5th AFTER I move to manual mode..
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Just got my 2013 Elantra Limited last weekend. It appears the car is having some issues with the transmission shifter. I am not sure if its tranny related, but I highly suspect it is. Dealer gave me the usual bs not being able to duplicate the symptoms.
1. Intermittently, gear selector would get stuck in neutral, when I try to put the car into P, after a long or a short drive.
2. I would have to wiggle the shifter to get into P, or I would have to shift to D, and then I am able to shift back into P.
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I have a 2002 ZX2 Escort Automatic and after driving it one morning, that night it wouldn't go after putting it in gear, all that happened was the rpm would go up than after a lil bit the car wouldn't move. I Noticed fluid all over the ground and didn't think nothing of it, anyway what to do?
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I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0 4x4 with 130,000 miles. The vehicle will not move while in 2 WD or in 4H. No engagement at all. However it will engage in 4L (reverse and drive). It also makes no sound from transfer case when I try to shift from auto 4x4 to 4H. 4L engages and is a bitch to get out of 4L once it's engaged. Changed tranny fluid and filter with no change. Really need this truck fixed, and by me if at all possible.
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This happen to me last year when it got cold out it goes in all the gears and when I let off the clutch it makes a grinding noise and won't move at all so I left it sit for the rest off the winter and when all the snow was gone I started it up put it in gear, let off the clutch and it started moving. I drove it all summer and now the cold weather is back it doing it again, what it might be.
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I own a 2004 Sable with 55361 miles. I purchased the car used with 16,658 miles on it along with an extended warranty. July 24, 2012, my car was towed to a transmission shop, due to the fact, that the car would not move, in any gear. A phone car from the transmission shop, stated that I needed a new transmission, & alternator. I have always taken my car in for routine maintenance. Needless to say I was not happy with the finds. I searched the internet, to see if there were other consumers having the same issues, and there were. Are you telling me that Ford, can't make a product to go past 55,361 miles without breaking down. I have always purchased American, but not that will change.
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I am just about committed to purchasing a 1997 Ford E350 extended cargo van with the 5.4. The transmission shifts through all the gears nice and firm (reverse also works). The only issue with the van is the column selector lever is very hard to move between the entire range of PRND21. It also does not "click" into the selected positions, you have to just line up the pointer to the desired gear selection.
Is this a complete deal breaker (internal transmission issue/replacement necessary) or, is it something relatively simple (such as a worn selector cable). The owner did admit the van has been sitting for sometime. It has 134,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with approx 155,000 miles on it(I don't know if that matters). The car started ok at first. When I put it into reverse, I noticed that it was really hard to move the gear shift(which it's normally really easy). I put it back in park and let it sit for a minute thinking it just had to warm up a bit more.
When I tried it again, it was still hard to shift, but this time when it got into gear I heard a loud clunk. This scared me, so I put it back in park and turned off the car. Now it won't start. All of my lights(headlights, dashboard lights, radio) come on, but the engine won't turn over.
I don't know if any of the following is relevant but I'm putting it out here anyway just in case it is: The battery is only a year old(and since all my lights came on, I don't think it's dead)I had an oil change on Saturday. The belts were replaced a few months ago. My check engine light is on because of an O2 sensor.
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I've always wondered why the transmission automatically shirts to 4th gear when I switch to sport mode! Is this normal??? It's an i4
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So after owning my R for just over a week I've noticed that when I accelerate hard or let off the throttle the shifter seems to move quite a bit. Is this normal with the stock mounts or is it something I should have looked at? I know the stock mounts are rubber to aid in isolating the vibration of the engine but it seems like the shifter moves a little more than I would expect.
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I ran into a new one with my 2000 1.8T Auto. When pulling out of my garage when I move the shifter from P to R, I felt a very strong jerk and the whole car shudders. Same from R to D. I drove straight to AAMCO which was the nearest repair shop. Although the drive was smooth (no additional noises etc) the acceleration was noticeably slow.
Recent work on the car:
-Timing belt replacement 3 months back.
-Battery replacement last night.
Engine light is on and came on 2 days back.
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