My 2005 impala started just fine this morning. Went to car wash(never made it) and the dash gauge lights began to flicker, abs, air bag, battery, brake light, gas gauge went hay wire. It did this intermittently. I checked the battery connection .. No issues ... Checked the charge it reads 14.2 steady even when flickering. The car still runs smooth and continues to start just fine. 3.4 chevy impala 2005 ... 134k
View 1 RepliesI got this car from someone and I just noticed none of the gauges on the dashboard work! Everything else works fine and the mileage still shows, engine notifications still show, etc.It's a 2005 Chevy Impala. What might be wrong?
View 3 RepliesIt's a 2005 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4 DOHC. A couple weeks ago I tried to use the wipers and nothing happened - at all. The next day the gauges inside the car went hay wire, started flashing on and off. Turned out the car needed a new battery and alternator. Replaced both and the car has been perfectly fine - except for the wipers. I checked the wiper fuse and it wasn't blown so I pulled the cowl, unplugged the motor, turned the key on, turned the wiper switch to full speed and then tested for voltage at the plug and got almost 12 volts when testing several terminal combinations.
I thought for sure I had it figured out so went ahead and bought a remanufactured wiper motor but nothing happened when I plugged it in. I thought maybe since I didn't mount it it wasn't grounded so went ahead and did that and still nothing. Thinking maybe it was defective I returned it and went to a different auto parts store and bought another one, hooked it up and got the same results. So then I tested all nine relays in the relay control center and they all passed. So now I'm thinking the only thing left to test is the wiper switch. Am I correct?
And also I'd love to bench test the original motor just to verify that it works but don't know which terminals to connect to. I've searched the internet with two different browsers and came up with nothing. The motor in question is a Bosch 05-02-14 41. And then underneath it has 0390 241 7411 12V 058 written on it. The terminals are labeled: 31b, 31, 53 and 53b. And since the OE replacement motor for this car is a Cardone 40-3026, which terminals to use to bench test that one, I could then figure out which terminals to use on the Bosch.
OK, I just got done replacing the alternator on the wife's 05 escape 3.0 V6, after it started on fire. The 3 wire plug was melted onto the alternator, so I had to replace the pigtail. I'm 99.9% sure that I got the wires in the right place. But now, after putting it all back together, it idles sporadically, when I drive it seems almost like it's trying to start out in 2nd gear, and shifts oddly. And there are no dash lights or gauges. Headlights work fine. And everything worked normally before I took it apart.
View 1 Replies2003 impala 3800 ... My battery drains if i leave it hooked up over night: and the gauges will sometimes start to click and flicker and move when the key is out of the ignition: I have changed batteries 3 times in 1 yr and checked the alternator, everything is fine, I'm tired of disconnecting my battery every night before bedtime..
View 11 RepliesI inherited this car from my parents a couple years ago with about 80,000 miles. It ran great for awhile, then the air conditioner and the gauges would quit working while driving. After a few minutes they would resume working and everything would go back to normal. Now it will start sometimes and will not start at other times. I have replaced the battery two times and it seemed to work for a short period. I have had several mechanics look at it. After checking the code and replacing a fuse or sensor and replacing the ignition switch the car is still doing the same thing and no one has a clue what is going on. It seems to me that it may happen more often when going over a bump. What could be causing this?
View 2 Replies1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
2002 Grand Prix, 3.8L na motor, 187K miles. It was running perfectly until 4 days ago. initially, odd gauge stuff and flashing air bag light, then very, very slight engine skip with the tach gauge flipping around. 2 days ago, harder than usual starts ( a couple of seconds cranking instead of instant starts ), 1 day go, longer cranking in the morning, worse stuttering at highway speed. Afternoon, very hard start, stuttering right away, and then it would hardly start and quit after seconds. Gauges flipping and relays buzzing under the dash.
I had it towed home. Moving the key to run I didn't hear the fuel pump running. Checked the pressure at the rail, zero pressure. I removed the relay and jumped it to run the pump at high pressure. Fuel pump ran, pressure was 50-60lbs. Reinserted the relay, tried to start it and no change. I couldn't hear the pump running. Removed the relay and jumped the pump again, left it running and tried starting the car. Also no start.
I'm thinking it may have something to do with the ignition switch, PK3 system, BCM or PCM although I'm not sure which way to go with testing. I'm going to re-check the fuel pump and then start taking ignition switch out.
'02 TB; 120,000 miles. When I have our TB running the dash lights will come on and the guages will go to zero. Then they will go off and the gauges will return to normal and back again. It acts like the key was shut off though it wasn't. The engine is still running. Now, after reading several posts here I'm thinking the ignition switch is bad. Is there a way to check the ignition switch before I buy a new one?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2003 Chevy Impala LS with 120,000 miles, equipped with sentinel lighting. Recently, the instrument cluster lights along with the lighted controls on the door panels and steering wheel stopped working leaving me unable to see the speedometer while driving at night. All controls seem work properly. I did some internet research and it appears there are several causes and/or fixes out there. I would like to have one or two more probable approaches than just throw money and time at a trial and error approach.
View 9 RepliesThe experts who are installing the dash wiring harness on my camry (not exaggeration they really are that good) installed everything perfectly with the exception of the dash not responding. The dash is connected properly but none of the lights nor gauges are reacting. The car turns on and all is good except for this.
View 4 RepliesBattery has died..... tried charging it and my amperage is spiking like crazy and wont stop. Prior to all of this my dash lights and gauges were fluctuating at best non responsive at worst. I believed that i had a short in my light switch but with it removed my problems are still consistent my battery terminals are fine, and my battery cables are in good condition. I do not know where the short could be ( i know there are thousands of locations).
View 1 RepliesAll the gauges on the dash will die for a second and the engine cuts out and the car jerks then it will come back on and everything is fine. Sometimes the gauges turn off completely and the car will die and will not start for several minutes. I will try to start the engine but it will not start until the dash lights come back on. The first time this happened to me I changed the air filter and the car ran fine for a month. So when it happened again I took my air filter out put it back in and again the car worked fine for a couple of weeks. Now, It doesn't work to mess with the air filter at all. The car is cutting out more and more.
View 2 RepliesThe sound comes from under the dash. recently the blinkers stopped working all together so I tracked down the problem to the hazard light switch and replaced that and the blinkers are working now. However, the clicking sound remains and seems to happen more just after using the turn signal but the sound happens randomly as well.
I'm thinking it might be the turn signal assembly located on the steering column. So, I was thinking of replacing the unit (it has both signal lever and wiper/wash lever) .
So, about 6 months ago, I bought a 1999 Dodge Ram just to keep around the house to do odd and ends jobs. Not a daily driver. I might have a need for it every few months. Well, a few months ago, I went to start it and the battery was dead. I have a battery charger that tests the battery. It said the battery was bad. So, I bought a new battery. A few days ago, I went to start it... again with the new battery, it was dead.
Put the charger on it and it said again that there was a shorted cell in it. So, I returned that one under warranty. Now went to start it, dead again (a week later.) So, I guess it's obvious it's not a bad battery (or at least the bad batteries are a cause of something else wrong.) I'm guessing there's a slow drain somewhere in the truck. How to find it?
I don't know if this has anything to do with it... Ever since I've owned it, every once in a while when driving the truck, all the gauges on the dash go to 0. Then it will just randomly start working again. Don't know if that has anything to do with the battery dying problem.
All dash lights and gauges went crazy with a picture of battery in screen and then stopped working for a few miles before working again. I was cruising @65 and this happened and downshifted to 2nd then quickly to 3rd and wouldn't shift again. Stuck in 3rd gear.
Had it scanned and got
P0740
P0753
P0758
P0785
All shift solenoids. Would I just buy a new valve body with new solenoids?
I would occasionally have the gauges go crazy and battery light go on but would go away and not have any codes stored. It would only do it towing and always thought it was a ground issue with th
I have a 2006 Jeep Commander. Periodically, and quite inconsistently, all the lights on the dash board flash on and off while simultaneously all the gauges drop to zero and the air stops blowing out from the vents. My car will continue to drive and all lights work along with the radio. This has happened while driving at 75 mph on the highway and my car will continue on as if nothing has happened. I know this isn't good, but completely baffled by it all. I have taken it to a Jeep dealer and they only saw there was a weak reading from my battery, but the battery isn't even two years old so I have yet to replace it.
I'm including a video I took while stopped at a light so you will see the RPM's drop down, but since I wasn't moving the MPH remains at zero.
We have a 2004 Honda civic and we are having a bit of issue. I am not sure what is wrong but my dad thinks it may be the alternator. I would drive down the road and the dash lights and the gauges would shut off and five minutes later the car would act like its out of gas and sputtering down the road. took it to pepboys and they replaced the positive terminal and two belts. found out the wrong battery was installed at walmart long story short...we got a new battery and drove about 200 miles and it did the same thing....the hood prop was resting on the positive terminal and was arcing my hood. could it be the alternator or more of an electrical problem due to the arcing?
View 2 Replies2004 f350. Trucks starts, runs, normal. But just noticed the gauges are not moving. Speedo stuck at 50, tach is at idle. Lights up just fine.
Have a code for the fuel sender, had that issue for awhile now, but also have u1262.
I have a 2006 Super Duty 6.0L, and I'm what are the two temperature gauges on the right side of the dash are? I'm sure one is engine temp, but what is the other one? Also, which gauge is which (in terms of top/bottom)?
View 11 RepliesI have a 08 F150 king ranch and have a couple of issues. There is a strange sound coming from the dash behind the gauges it sounds like a computer hard drive clicking and the heater seems to be stuck on will not even blow outside fresh air.
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