Malibu :: 2001 Starts Hard When Warm
Jun 22, 2013
I have a 2001 Malibu that starts easily when cold but when it is warm, up to 4 hours after turning if off it is very hard to start. It will try to start then stall and then I eventually have to floor it to get it going. A big cloud of smoke come out of the tail pipe but then runs at a high idle. Sometimes I will get a 3000rpm idle and then after about 30 seconds it will idle right. I have a new fuel pump, a new Charcoal canister, a new vent valve solenoid, a new fuel pump relay, a good battery and a good starter. I also checked the fuel pressure regulator and no gas leaks out. Also have had a full tune-up. This problem turned out to be the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
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This weekend was a nice high 80's low 90's. My AC is usually ice cold. However now that the weather hit that high, when we are in stop-and-go traffic, the AC starts blowing warm humid air. I do see the temperature need creep a bit higher than the normal range.
Once we start driving, after a few minutes, the climbs back down and the cold AC returns. Turning the fan speed down, or turning the compressor off, then on again, seems to work.
What could be causing this? A friend said he has this issue with his car claiming the engine is the issue, not being powerful enough to keep the compressor running right, is that possible?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe and have recently noticed the following problem. When it is hot outside (95 degrees) and car has been idling for a while, suddenly the A/C will start blowing warm air and the temperature gauge will start creeping up above normal. It hasn't fully overheated as when this occurs, I shut off the A/C or start moving and it returns to normal temperature. The A/C will then work properly again. Also, when this happens, if I turn the car off and then try to start it again a few minutes later, it is very hard to start but eventually starts. It can easily be reproduced, but I want to try to understand possible cause before taking it to a dealer. I was thinking maybe fan going bad, or fan switch.
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2007 Malibu, heat only blows warm during acceleration, when you come to stop/idle heat blows cool. Temp gauge remains constant in normal operating range while driving.
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My truck is 2001 F250 with the 7.3 I have AFE intake, TS 6 position chip, Stage 1 Auto Tranny, 4in Exhaust all the way down. New glow pugs as of last week as well as uvchs and gp relay. Also has a new hpop line. New compression sleeves for fuel lines, riff-raff fuel banjo bolts and fuel pressure regulator.
I am having a hard start issue no matter what the temp is outside, unless it plugged in. Once it starts its good unless it sits for more than 5 hours.
Batteries have tested good, glow plugs ohm at 1.3, gpr 12.83 at batt side- once on it 11.9. All fuses are good. HPOP res is showing at about 3/4" down from top.
***Wires going to the MAT sensor are showing through at the connector, not sure if this could be a problem...if so why???
****Noticed some oil in the ICP, cleaned and unhooked will check start tomorrow to see if this works with long start as truck is plugged in.
Will also be putting a new fuel filter in and double checking oil level in the am. I do not have a scanner tool and am doing the best I can before I take it in to ford to diagnose.
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My buddy's 2001 7.3L F350 has had 3 transmissions. Rebuilt and used. Once the new trans is in he goes like 15 miles and then is starts shifting hard and grinding gears. What this could be?
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My car will start but die. it either wont turn over or if it does, the engine goes right off. The radio and lights work though. the throttle & iacv were all good. i got it towed and the mechanic brought it in his garage at end of the day. He said it wouldn't start so they left it for monday. The thing is that my ignition sometimes gets stuck and leaves radio & interior lights on. So when they tried starting car on monday, it was dead. They put different battery on & it started right up. they said everything else was ok. they charged my battery & I had no problems. until today, 3 months later, same problem. both times it happen when I am leaving work & both times it was raining & cold. Could my battery be bad? also wonder if place really checked everything out likethey said.
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I have a 1999 chevy malibu with a 2005 chevy impala motor in it. Recently I put my car into reverse and it made a hard clunk and went into reverse. Later on that day I tried to go into reverse and it will not reverse. I had to have 3 people push my car back in neutral. However, in neutral I am able to press on the gas and drive forward... This is an automatic transmission. Am I just screwed and need a brand new transmission?
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My car is idling hard in reverse, and the mechanic said, in fact, a problem with the transmission (a turbine?) Well, a new transmission costs much - so, not much savings there. I was told to try some simple fuel injector cleaner first. Chevy Malibu Classic, 2005....
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I have a 2001 malibu , my cars engine light has been for about a week. This is the second time it has happened. lately I have been having trouble starting my car. Does this have anything to do with my car , or because of the cold weather? How important is it for me to get my car checked out?
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My 2003 Chevy Malibu recently, out of nowhere, starting idling really hard. It shakes and jumps quite a bit when it idles, much like a car creeps when it's about to run out of gas. It drives fine at speeds over about 10-15 mph, but then when it slows down it gets shaky and bumpy.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx that randomly dings and shows me the battery light.
It usually happens when going uphill or during really hard accelerations.
It is also showing OBDII code P0621.
The car has no other issues. Always starts, always runs well.
What causes this problem? Where should I start looking? I'm thinking it's probably a bad connection somewhere.
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2004 Malibu 3.5 v6. 101,000 miles. In order to get engine running gas pedal has to be pushed all the way down to get it started. Engine will not start by turning key. Car initially starts sputters and then dies. Pedal to the floor while cranking engine fires and runs. Which direction do I go first at. Ignition or Fuel. What should the fuel pressure be with key on engine not running ?
What should pressure be at while running ?
What is the time frame pressure should hold at and for how long ?
Ignition, Coil,Wires,Plugs. Are these the only ignition parts to look at?
Check engine light is on but has leak in exhaust. Exhaust needs to be welded. All parts above are original. Neither Fuel Pump nor Ignition Component have not been changed. Which do I do first ?
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If my car get really hot, it initially blows cold air (the way it should be) for 5-10 minutes, but then it slowly starts blowing warm air until I get the full heater going for about a minute, and then it goes back to cold air, sometimes after 45 minutes the cycle repeats. This does not happen every time, this year I had it happen about 5 times.
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Our car starts, then dies. It starts fine, then dies. This only happens in warm weather, which we have finally been experiencing in Northern Illinois. It eventually gets to the point where we can drive it, but then might die at a stop sign, or it can go the rest of the day and not have any difficulties. I know later models have timing chains, not belts. Does our car have a timing belt problem or maybe fuel pump? And why only in warm weather?
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If the outside temp is cool (say below 75) the a/c works, but as soon as the day gets warm it starts blowing only warm air. I took it to the Honda dealership and they said that it was low on freon and that it needs a new clutch and a new coil. They recharged it and added dye. A week later I took it to a good independent shop that specializes in Honda repairs. They said that the compressor has power and ground and is full of freon and dye but they found a bad thermal switch and that I need a new compressor. I have no understanding of car a/c systems and thus don't know which repair sounds like the right one (if either) based on the diagnostics that have been done.
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My 2007 es350 77k miles. Heater starts to get warm and then it blows cold air. What could cause this.
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I have a 95 4.0 EFI inside of my 83 Ranger. Once the motor warms up, it starts to have an idle issue. I have to press the gas, in order for it not to cut off. Here is a video I posted a while back. A person suggested that it could be the MAF needed to be cleaned. I did that, and it did not work.
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Left on hunting trip last Thurs. Blew tire on trailer 6 miles from home. Shut off truck. Went to restart, cranks only. No codes. Towed home.
Thought it might be a fuel filter problem. Had just changed oil/filter and fuel filters prior to trip. Checked filters, upper bowl was low. Turned key to on and bowl filled up. Noticed filter wasn't snapped in lid. Also checked lower filter.
Drove it to work this am. Turned off truck and tried to restart to check. NO START-Cranks fine!!!
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It works great for the first 5 minutes and gets icebox cold. I can almost see my breath then the system starts blowing warm air and stays that way. I've had the coolant recharged and the shop tells me there is nothing wrong with it. Of course it works for them.
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I am a longtime 7.3 IDI guy with an 88 F350 crew so i know about diesels. But this is my first electronic diesel. I picked up a 2001 F450 2wd auto 260k miles. it used to be my work's truck but was stitting for a year and now i got it in "non running condition"
I towed it home and got it started by replacing the batteries and using the block heater.
As expected it took a few tries of long cranking to run the first time. runs pretty good and no smoke. what surprised me is it still takes about 5 sec of cranking to restart each time when warm too. any direction you would look with those symptoms? HPOP, IPR?
i am pretty sure the glow plugs all work because mechanics had replaced all that stuff. but i know back when the truck was last used it would still never start cold unless plugged in (even in summer).
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