Malibu :: 2001 - Check Engine Light Came On / Idling Really Rough And Slow To Shift
Feb 26, 2014
2001 with the 3.1 6cyl. First thing that started this nightmare is I was noticing a bit of a hiccup after driving for a couple miles. We've only had the car a few months and not sure what maintenance was done so we thought maybe it needed a tune up. Before I got the parts the check engine light came on so I went to parts store to get it read, it was P0302.
Did the wires and plugs and it got worse, the code wasn't p0302 now its just p0300. But after the plugs it also started idling really rough and would be slow to shift. Once it tacked up high and wasn't speeding up. That was only once tho. Also now it has no power its like driving a 2cyl ...
Anyway we decided since the first code said 2 we replaced coil 2, no luck..ok, fuel filter and fuel injector 2, no luck. Also has cleaned various things Im not sure of the technical name for..sensors and air filters and other things.
None of this has worked the car still idles very bad and doesn't have the power it should have. Also cleaned things on fuel rail(?). He is in the process of replacing the crank sensor as someone said if it was all the way bad it would throw a different code but it may just be faulty.
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I recently replaced the head gaskets in my 2003 Malibu. First time and all seems other than it runs rough at stop lights. The check engine came back on and so I had it read and there is an air flow issue. Is there anywhere that I can get a schematic for the vacum lines? I have all over and cannot seem to find a loose or broken one.
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Weird problem on my Passat today. First the engine light came on...followed by rough idling. It smooths out when moving, but rough again when stopped. Noticed that turning ON the AC makes it a little smoother...but when you turn off the AC, resumes the rough idle.
Already made an appt with the dealer tomorrow...but wanted to see if this problem is familiar to other owners. Either way, I will update once the dealer finishes diagnosing the problem.
The car has been perfect up to 30k miles...now 2 problems in the last month.
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Today I went to the gas station and after I gased up and turned the car on my car started idling rough, almost to the point of cutting out. I started out on the road and my check engine light started blinking. After some time it stopped and just stayed on. The whole front end shakes pretty bad when at idle. The car has trouble accelerating till roughly 35-40 mph then seems to ride ok. I'm not very car knowledgeable, but I do take care of my car. I know I need to replace some of my hoses and spark plugs soon, but am worried that it may be more serious.
What I would like to know is: 1. What could possibly cause these issues and 2.
2003 Mazda Protege
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I replaced the heater core in my truck this weekend. The only thing I was worried about was pulling the dash. The truck is a 1998 f150 with the 5.4.. Everything went fairy well and decided to replace the AT Shift cable as well. Got everything put back. Truck runs, no leaks, no antifreeze smell. After running about 20 minutes, it started idling a little rough and my check engine light came on.
The codes are p0136, p0156, p1131, and p1151. I know these are related to the OS sensors. My question is could it be as simple as I miss an electrical connection when putting the dash back in? Was thinking possibly somewhere on the passenger side under the kick plate or possibly something while hooking up the heater hoses? Maybe even a ground that didn't get connected back when putting the das back in?
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I just purchased my first foreign car ever. it is a 2002 Elantra it idles very rough changed plugs using NGK and wires new fuel filter and ran 2 full tanks of high grade fuel with STP fuel injector cleaner. but had no effect on idle also have no check or service engine light. What to check next?
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2005 Malibu 2.2L 4 cyl.109,000 miles
If I hit a bump too hard the Check Engine light comes on because the gas cap pops out. Dealer told me this is a common problem with many of the Chevy models earlier than 2007. GM doesn't have a solution, either.
Since none of these cars have a locking mechanism I decided to get a locking cap at NAPA because the locking mechanism would hold the cap in place. Nope! The locking cap is even worse.
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After filling the gas tank yesterday, as I was on my way to work, the check engine light came on. For the last couple of days the temperatures outside have reached 118 degrees. I have checked the oil and coolant and have resealed the gas cap as well, yet the light still remains. The research I have done leads me to believe the problem may be the catalytic converter, but I'm wondering if there is any further troubleshooting I can do without heading to a mechanic.
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When I tried to turn left yesterday, my car suddenly stopped with both the "check engine" light and "battery" light on, but the heat, headlights and radio were working just fine. I turned off the engine, and waiting a few minutes, ad then restarted the car, and everything is fine. I do not drive the car today. My question: is this a problem with the battery or the electric line? When the "battery" light is on, can i conclude it's a problem limited to the electric line only rather than a fuel line. My car is Chevy Malibu, 1999, with 90,000 mileages on it.
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My 2008 Malibu service manual states that the check engine light should briefly come on when I start my engine. When the engine is cold this does not happen. Also, it happens infrequently when the engine is warm. My Chevrolet dealer says this is normal as the light checks out when tested. Chevrolet has not given me a difinitive answer on this. My concern is that if this is a problem it may surface at another time when the light should go on and cause damage if not attended to. If the manual says the check engine light should go on when the engine is started and it doesn't, doesn't this mean something is wrong?
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu 125,000 miles, 2.2 Engine that was running sluggish, noisy like needed oil (checked didn't) and check engine light was on. Took it to a repair shop and told needed an oil change, car still ran sluggish, told to drive it a day or so. Two days later, car wouldn't go over 50 mph, took it back and told needed air filter and mass air flow cleaned. After they did that, they told me the Catalytic converter needed replaced however they don't do that work. Within a week car would not run so had the cat replaced.
Car ran better but still not great. Took it to another place, spark plugs replaced, throttle body cleaned and fuel injector cleaner added to gas.Still the car ran sluggish and was making noise and check engine light was on. Took it to parts store to have code checked on check engine and said error in bank one of oxygen sensor. I replaced that, reset the light and am sure you know, it still runs bad and noisy and check engine light came back on. I am losing power on hills and big hills the engine rattles.
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I was just at work tonight and went out and started my car for it to warm up (it is -20) and go back inside for about 15 mins, I come out and as I am walking back to my car. I notice tons of exhaust is blowing out from the bank puffing like a steam engine and idling insanely rough with the RPM gauge at about 900 RPM with a EPC code. I immediately shut off the car. Cautiously turn the car back on. Car is idling normally, EPC code is gone, rev it a bit. Everything seems fine.
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My 03 with a 5.4 has been hesitating a when you accelerate and cutting out as well as idling rough and die when you slow down. It does all this intermittently. Not every stop or every time you accelerate. I first got a code for the MAF and both banks running rich (PO102, PO172, PO175) so I cleaned the throttle body and MAF. The running rich code came back (PO172, PO175) so I then changed the MAF and air filter . It seemed to work for a day or so then my light came on and I figured the same code was back but to my surprise it was now both banks running lean(PO171, PO174) so I took my MAF back and got another one. It hasn't set a code yet but it is still running poorly. I have changed all the COP's and plugs as well ....
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I have a 09 w/ DSG and 64K miles. Love it. Never had one mechanical problem until Monday. Driving back from SC on I77 N, my check engine light came on and I stopped at an Autozone in Statesville NC to find that a P2015 fault was to blame. Apparently it is:
DTC Description:
P2015 (2968) Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Sporadic
Technical Background:
- Intake manifold tumble flaps sporadically stick.
- Engine performance is not affected.
At any rate, I drove to the bank this afternoon 2 mi +/- and upon parking at the ATM, the idle went way low (under 1000) and then started creeping higher to about 3K. I raced the engine a couple times then it began starting at 1200, going to about 2000 and then back to 1200. Over and over. It's hard for me not to think these two things were related, except the check engine light was off from Tuesday to today. When the idle was roughest today (almost stalling) - the check engine light began to blink. Then it was steady for the 2 mile drive back and under normal driving, I can't tell anything's wrong.
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So, I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent. It drives great. Until recently.
My wife noticed that it was cranking a little longer than usual before starting. Then, one day, I noticed it. So, I stopped the car and restarted it to see if it would happen again, and listen more closely. But, all ti did was crank.
I became upset and went in to do some research and make some phone calls. I came back out and voila, it magically worked fine again. Weird, I thought.
A few days later, no incidents. We go to the grocery store. On our way out, it cranks longer. This time I'm not going to restart it, I think. So, I start driving and everything is great. Except...it suddenly wasn't accelerating. It felt like it was in neutral for like 100 feet or so, then back to normal. We're making plans to take it into the shop at this point.
The next day, we go out to get coffee. Car drives great. On our way out, no problems. We stop at the red light, and it stalls. I have to push it into a parking lot and call the tow. Strangely enough, it starts again ten minutes later, and runs fine.
The stalling and being unable to start for tenish minutes phenomenon has happened three times.
We took it to the shop, it actually did this as I was filling up gas--stalled. I pushed it into a space and waited a few minutes, bam, it started up fine. The mechanic told me that the engine light had been reset. He couldn't figure it out. Said everything looked great.
So, the run down is this:
-My car stalls when idling, but only after it has been driven some, stopped, and restarted without a lot of time passing--like when you're coming home from the store or something, after it sits for 30 or 40 minutes.
-Once stalled, it will not restart again until a few minutes have passed --something like five to ten minutes.
-There is no check engine light. Fluid levels are good. Connections and whatnot, according to the mechanic, looked good.
-When it stalls, all the electronics stay on and work. The oil light and engine light pop up (like this key is in and turned part way), then it all goes away when the car restarts.
-the computer says that it was reset after it does this.
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My Avalon has 55,000 miles on it. when it is idling the motor seems to be very noisy. to me this isn't normal my service rep says there should be no problems if there is no check engine light on.
Should not be as noisy with such low mileage. dealers says if there is no problem and that is the way it is they will charge me for the diagnostic fee. seems like it's not right the way it sounds so what is everybody's opinion on this issue. Oil level is up and very good so just wondering if it could be very variable valve timing solenoid making noise.
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My 2007 Sante Fe had problem this week. Took 6 attempts to start engine, then ran smoothly the rest of the night. The check engine light came on while trying to start vehicle.
Next day I changed the spark plugs but now find that the vehicle jerks when idling. Runs fine when going but jerks and bucks at stop lights and stop signs. Just added fuel injection cleaner to see if that may support the situation.
Engine light has come back on again since resetting. I have read several suggestions on internet regarding leak in vacuum line, Coil Pack damage due to faulty hose, even faulty 02 sensor.
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My car is idling rough and the Service Engine light blinks on/off continuously. I ran the codes and they are P0301, P0401 and P1258. What this could be? I changed the plugs, wires and ignition coils about a year ago. Catalytic converter was replaced around the same time but the O2 sensors hasn't been changed. Could that be the cause?
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my 2004 Nissan Murano has suddenly encountered a slight problem, and when i mean slight, I mean I am pretty concerned about it. Two days ago, I was driving in a school zone on the way to work when my car stopped working! All of the dash lights came on and the gas did not work. So, I stopped the car, parked, turned it off, then turned it back on. It was slow to start, but started, and got me to work. Since then, the check engine light is always on, and it sounds like it wont start when i turn it on, but does. We thought it might be a battery problem, so we got the battery changed, but that didn't work. I am afraid to drive it a lot because i don't want to make anything worse.
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So my wife was driving our '10 escape xlt and the engine light came on and it displayed the 'check engine' message on the screen. It has 86500 miles and luckily no problems yet. The only thing that has changed was she accidentally put super premium gas in it the other day. The light came on and after she drove it home (about 10-12 miles) and it sat for a few hours and i drove it about 20 miles it randomly went off while it was idling.
I shut it off and let it sit for 20 minutes and then let it idle for a few and it never came back. It has been running ok. We definitely drive it a lot as she works day shift and i work nights. I'm just trying to make sure there's nothing wrong with it. I got a bulletin a while back about the intake getting moisture in it. I didn't know if maybe this could be the beginning of this or something else. This is a whole new territory for me as i consider my 91 f250 'new'
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I have a 2000 f350 7.3 got a check engine light that turns off when rpms go up and a slow start. My mechanic said that there were no codes being blown, what is going on?
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